Ford Differential Carnage - Driveline Noise Located 

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I am only 10 seconds into video. but a whole Ford 10.5 isn't a few thousand. so I agree completely edit: especially on 2010 thats basically a new truck

Lack of maintenance maybe

Hell, I'm about to spend $150 on a new suspension kit for our 2001 Honda Accord with almost 300K miles. Can't kill 'em!

You too?

@@Le_Comte_de_Monte_Felin Me three

Ditto!

Glad I could help!

He was to late for me this morning. Darn

Yes. My father and his two brothers are all mechanics. All three of them 3/4 deaf.

I suspect that was a 'Salisbury' model axle and, IIRC, they required a special spreader tool. My first purchase from a dismantler was a pair of brake drums for a Series 1. A couple of years later I became one of the staff there.

@@robt2151jam a prybar on the spider gears and rotate the pinion flange. the carrier will now come out. this works for any spicer/salisbury and salisbury-type (integral carrier) axle

Cheers

Hell hath no Fury like an angry Mother! Then for the next few day you will be eating Cold Shoulder. . .

@Rob Smith Hopefully she was more relieved that neither of you were in the way of that projectile that went through her new greenhouse, than she was mad at you!

Spotted Cow comes in a can too. Or Yuengling.

We call that the “Chicago Rebuild”, a tube of super glue and a sixer of Milwaukee’s Best…

@@WatchWesWork Had a Dana 44 out of a Jeep years ago with the same deal. Got some copper foil ~0.001" thick and wrapped the bearing race with it. Heard from a friend of a friend that that Jeep is still chuggin' away.

This is an old school full floating axle. You can find one on anything with duel rear wheels. (Or in this case, an American "3/4" ton. Somehow getting away without duels...

I was about to say this... Small world 🤔

I have an old Snap-On molded hammer that broke apart as well

Cold weather making the plastic brittle.

Yeah, did she conjure up a lightning bolt or something?

I was stoked the day I got a cement/mortar mixing pan. But you just got me hip to a totally great idea using those rubber feeder pans. Those things are practically invincible. Thanks for sharing!

Edits made is particularly easy after step by step bringing the truck down onto the replacement axle then instantly lifting truck, axle and all like the quick connects snapped in place.

Thats why mechanics spend thousands on tools, it really does make things easier. Its not just the editing

Good job well done Wes your family is looking well.

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How are you going to stick magnets to an aluminum license plate?

Definitely can’t let the public see the license plate 🤣

@@whatitis99 In my state, they are still metal, AKA steel for now.

@@whatitis99 bolts are not aluminum

Sell yourself. This is not greedy, this is good practice for a RU-vidr.

Car Quest and Advance are switching to it. Just like Die Hard batteries.

I heard that FRAM bought the Carquest factories and just slapped their logo on it? Someone here I'm sure will fill us in

Amen. They love to hear them TALK. Instead of getting to the point and getting the task started and done. When I see that. I just don't watch them. If I needed someone who talks. I'd rather talk to me grandson and listen to him talk and ask questions. ❤

Eh, I would have tried a torch on the U-bolt nuts first if the threads and shanks of the u-bolts weren't severely rust pitted. I live in the rust belt too and you typically try to save anything that isn't just completely rotten away or going to cause a failure later down the road.

Yeah, i would of gone with the devils night light

I've never seen a U-bolt that could be reused. Even if they are not rusted, they are a torque to yield fastener.

I think Wes was just relieving some of the tension on the bolts so he could cut it safely

@@WatchWesWork Maybe new passenger light duty trucks, where all fasteners are throw-away. But 3/4" and 7/8" u-bolts have always been reusable unless they've been stretched beyond limits.

in that instance I agree with you, cause for you you're skinning a cat that's the only cat in the world and it has to work, for Wes it's pretty much your regular ol' tabby and he just needs to get it done cheap and quick, he got the repair done probably for less than just parts the other way

Good ol' Eric O. at South Main Auto!

A good cleaning will take care of it. Any small amount left over will be cought by the magnet on the diff cover. Just try and get out what is reasonably feasible to do. You will be replacing the fluid after about 500 miles due to break in procedures.

@@williamallen7836 My concern is always the residual amount of metal that can migrate to the axle wheel bearings. Not too many mechanics wash out the rear end tubes like 16 inch guns on a battleship.

@@tonyrum5808 There really is no need for cleanliness to that degree. A basic 20 minute clean is enough. Anything that would be left will be so fine that it will cause no harm, and picked up by the magnet. It will look like what is on the magnet after the first 500 mile brake in gear oil change. They are designed to deal with very fine metal shavings that are produced between gear oil changes. Hence the magnet to catch the stuff that will cause damage until the next gear oil change. My pinion bearing was destroyed far beyond the one in this video, and a basic cleaning got the bits that would cause damage. The roller cage was in about 1K small pieces. When I rebuilt the 10 bolt in my Camaro I used 3 to 4 cans of break cleaner. Prior to this I bolted the diff cover on with the center section & pinion gear removed. I shot some kerosene down both axle tubes as a general flush that removed most of the bits. Then used a broom handle to push kerosene soaked rags from the wheel to the center section, and pulled them out ware the pinion gear used to be. Similar to cleaning a gun. Once very little to no metal shavings could be seen, I started spraying break cleaner to flush any very small shavings to the center section. Removed the cover, the magnet cought most of it. So I cleaned the cover. Then with the pinion end pointing upwards I sprayed down through it to clear the gear oil passage out. Then sprayed out the rest of the center section. A quick spray of wd-40 down the axel tube, and the center section to prevent rust while I worked on the rebuild. After the 500 mile breakin the only shavings on the magnet was the very fine shavings from the pinion & ring gear breaking in. Looked almost like mud on the magnet. There's no need to worry so much as long as a basic cleaning job is done.

Oh yeh, he just edits out the part where the impact, wrenches, pry bars, etc. go flying across the shop along with a few choice expletives.

im always fascinated by people in the south who see a little rust and panic. charge way more give up lol. dude come to northern ontario. there's a good reason the drop out rate in the trade is over 95% in first 2 years now. the ones who make it through though! ;)

If you find yourself throwing things it's time to find another line of work.

@@maplebones Carpenters throw hammers, football players throw helmets, hockey players break stick, baseball players throw bats and the beat goes on an on, it's called frustration

@@maplebones if you never let your frustration lose, you're going to end up dead

Momma didn't raise no fool.

It's surely not an essential component.

My 2004 srw f350 does not have that oil slinger. When I replaced the backing plates a couple years ago all it had was the seal on both sides

slingers are to lube the bearing, when oil level is low(up a hill) it grabs oil and slings it the upper portion and it travels down the bearing thus lubing it,

Well, that's a totally different situation. New parts and salvage parts aren't readily available there for cheap. It costs less in most cases there to actually do a machine job with metal build-up to put a piece of equipment back into service where a new or used axle/transmission/etc, would be infeasible. They do some of that kind of machine shop repair work at the place I work right now, but it's usually on parts that aren't readily available for purchase anymore. Like equipment from the 1960s, 70s, and obscure truck equipment from the 80s.

Beer can shims, or build it up with a stick welder, grind it back to spec with a worn out grinding wheel.

@@WatchWesWork I don’t think they drink beer, must be soda cans.

You might be on the right track..........I would agree

Does water intrusion cause the gear oil to get foamy? When I did my trucks diff at 180k miles it was foamy like that.

Just FORD built explains it all

The plugged breather tells me the truck saw plenty of water and mud.

If the yunkyard waves accountability, you are accountable?

The grease will quickly get washed out by the diff oil. The Dana 30 in my Volvo wagon has an inner oil seal that keeps the oil out of the wheel bearing, allowing it run in grease only.

@@maplebones well yeah, you need to keep the system you have. You can't just put axle grease into an axle bearing which is supposed to run in oil. But that wasn't my point here.

Talking about a bearing locker, are you talking about a retainer that blocks the preload shims in place? On my 04 wrangler d44 rear axle the preload shims are outside the bearings and held in place solely by interference/preload force, though i dont think they slip out completely due to the diff cover. I have read views that the carrier bearing preload should be very tight on assembly, and failure from too much preload is rare or nonexistant. I believe that was from the Randys ring and pinion website.

@@connor3288 I'm not sure, but I think the locker was used between the bearing outer races and the case. Prevent movement under heat/stress, remove any chance of having the race spin in the case. I know the transmission man that installed my 4500HD told me that he had a jig that would literally spread the case to make removing the ring gear/spider gear/bearing package possible "without resorting to the use of high explosives ..." I think (not certain, because it came to me by hearsay) manufacturer outfitted repair facilities have, or had, rather specialized equipment (unitaskers) that would have been expensive and impractical for most small repair shops to have. Certainly explains the popularity for swapping out the entire unit rather than repairing it yourself.

Good luck!

Good luck brother you got this

It's a dodge be an easy fix. Hemi is a great

Road salt is only affective to around -10°C. It's just too cold in Alberta for it to be useful.

Yeah I live in northern Alberta and have never seen a frame as rusty as what he works on

@@tlr-nut7275 That's true for common sodium chloride, but they're now using calcium and magnesium chloride that are active to almost -30 C. It's mixed with water and spayed on. It's starting to show up in Alberta and Sask. and Manitoba. Road crews love it because, whether it's needed or not, it's gives them more winter work.