Tips on how to use a Husky digital protractor model 822H. Please support my RU-vid channel iScaper1 by using my Amazon Storefront to purchase products on Amazon. iScaper1’s Amazon Storefront: www.amazon.com...
WOW! My favorite subject to discuss on woodworking forums. Take any "setting" whether it's the miter saw, the table saw bevel, or the miter guage and you have the same issue. That's because " zero" is set to 90 degrees on all of them. And that means the actual cutting angle will be different than the "setting". The math works like this: Subtract your cut angle from 90 and that's your setting on the indicator scale. So, 90 - 38 = 52, exactly what you ended up with. It's confusing until you understand that simple formula.
With the reverse button on the husky angle finder, the tool does the math for you. All you have to do is 0 the finder with blades flush and rotate the top blade clockwise to the desired angle. Then press the reverse button and divide that number by 2. That is the angle you set your miter saw at.
The mitre saw is in terms of "angular adjustment" or how far you move the saw blade. If you don't adjust it at all and you make a straight cut, it's a 90 degree cut perpendicular to the fence. If you want to make an 80 degree cut by protractor measurement, you only have to adjust the miter saw 10 degrees because it is already at a 90 degree angle to your wood. Thus, it's only 10 degree of angular adjustment. It's how far you adjust the angle of the saw... not the angle you want your piece to be. If you move the saw 52 degrees, your wood will be cut to reflect the remaining 38 degrees. Another way you can work it is to simply subtract 38 from 90 to get 52, or make yourself a template for the miter saw with the numbers going in the opposite direction.
chop saw were designed to cut @ 90 deg. with the ability to cut different angles, if you view the zero point as such it will help you understand actual angles!
Start with your angle finder wide open against a perfectly (level edge) push zero.then close the angle finder for outside degrees .for inside corners push zero when fully closed as you did.
Most of these are on track but not quite there.Yes 38 + 52 = 90. The reason your angle reads 38 and the saw reads 52 is because you are measuring from the opposite side of 90 dog where the saw angle is referenced from the center of the base with reference to the fence (where you are starting from). Hope that helps muddy the water !?Makes perfect sense to me.
This is because the saw blade is perpendicular (90 degrees) to the fence. The zero marking on the scale is shifted around 90 degrees to provide symmetry for the operator when calculating angle cuts. david
Been going through these device and all them are in riddle format. No DIY angle device one under $120 that just tell you what degree you need to set the mitre saw for the cut!
A helpful tip I've learned: First, calibrate your angle finder on a flat surface along a straight line, setting it to 0 degrees. After calibrating, take your measurement with the digital angle finder. If the reading is greater than 90 degrees, recalibrate it to the closest 90-degree angle. Then, divide your reading by two, and you're all set!
Seems same as Mastercraft Angle Finder. Battery goes in slide out tray, push side button. When mine times out, I have press reverse button then the on button.
iScaper1 how did the carpenter determine the number 76 to subtract from 180? Is that a standard number or was 76 determined by your reading of the angle you need for the roof line?
Your mitre saw has an offset marker (as shown) 2:42 but measures from the 6 o'clock position. mitre saw measures anti-clockwise . 52degrees whereas you're using the digital protractor to measure from 3 o'clock position and measuring clockwise. 38degree . -same cut, measured from different start point at different rotation.
With an angle finder like that, you wouldn't even have to look at or calculate the degree of the angle. You just lock it and take the angle finder to your miter saw and position your miter saw (again without looking at the degree scale on your miter) to the position of your angle finder. So you're basically copying the angle that you measured with your angle finder to your miter saw and get a 'perfect' cut every time!
5 minutes later I realized my mistake! You still need to divide that number/angle in half, because you're not cutting piece, you're cutting two that make up that 1 angle.
You measured the 38 degrees from parallel to the face of the fence. When making a normal zero degree cut, the cut is 90 degrees to the face of the fence, so 38 degrees is 90 - 38 = 52 degrees from the normal zero cut.
if calculations are 38 degrees minus it from 90 degrees which comes to 52 degrees. if any angle is less than 90 degrees divide it by 2 and subtracts from a 90 degree and the remainder is where you want to set your miter saw to.
180 - 76 = 104, then divide by 2 gives you 52°, on your saw it travels only to the 45° mark? Well, subtract 52 - 45= 7. So on your saw you move your saw 7° from the 45° mark on the saw, that will place your saw angle on the 38° mark on your saw indicator. Just another way to look at it.
With the Zero Degree mark on your SAW, you will get a 90 degree cut. You want an angle of 38 degree to be remaining in your job, which means you have to cut away 90-38 = 52 degree. Thats y the saw angle need to be 52 degree.
Well put. The starting point is 90 degrees. Your measurement angle is half your equation. The missing half is basically what your saw angle needs to be.
Im not an maths angle expert how ever all the old carpenters I worked with never used the gauge on saw, they always used the bisected angle on the saw as a guide from the angle finder
52+ 38 = 90 so the issue for you is that your Angle Finder is "Zeroed" along the Mitre Saw Fence whereas your Miter Saw is "Zeroed" along it's Blade so you have to set it for the latter angle to get your angle
Can you explain to me how you got your Ryobi clamp to work? There are no explanations in the manual. I cannot find anyone online to help me. You have one and seem to have the clamp working. I cannot seem to get mine to tighten. I hold it and try to tighten it and then it comes loose. I am almost ready to drill and tap a set screw on both tubes to hold the clamp. Thanks.
WOW! I have the harbor freight 12" dual bevel, lazer etc. The clamp works on both sides and stay in place. Try a flat grind on the set screw. On the end that meets the pole. Make it absolute square! Hope this helps.
62+38=90. It is the way mitre saw angles are marked which causes confusion. If you re label your mitre saw in angles which match your angle finder, or mark these angles o the saw scale you no longer have to do funky math when using it...
Close the angle finder .zore it. To calabrate ..open it to 90 .okay then rero it now its readdy to use it works from open to close not from closr to open
Just physicaly line the saw blade up with the angle finder blade to fence and transfer it to the saw. Dont bother using the saw gauge takes to long and to much hoping the saw is acurate usually not.
When looking at the numbers marked on the miter saw, if the saw is set at 0, it = a 90 degree angle when cut. If you take 90 and subtract the numbers shown on the saw, you find that 0 = a 90 degree angle cut (90 - 0 = 90), 5 = an 85 degree angle cut (90 -5=85), 10 = an 80 degree angle cut (90-10), 15 = a 75 degree angle cut (90 -15=75) and so forth. You can write this on your saw (or on tape and stick it on). This way, if you are cutting miters, you can compute the angle, divide by 2 and set your saw at the appropriate spot to get that angle (which only corresponds to the numbers on the saw by subtracting from 90). In your case, 76(the angle) divided by 2 = 38 degrees. 90-38=52 on your saw. 45 on your saw is the only one that creates an angle of the same number as shown on the saw when the blade is set there (because 90-45=45).
If it didn't find the angle then it is an angle finder just t not the angle your are looking for, therefore, it sucks and it deserves a bad review, you just did. I not buying it.
Miter saw manufacturers are stupid and copy each other. The 0 mark is wrong on the saws, 0 is actually at the fence of the saw! The fence of the saw is the 0 line, the 45 on your saw is correct but relative to the real 0 (fence), the 0 is the 90 and the 45 to the left is actually 135! Its a 0-180 degree half circle starting from the right side of the fence.... stupid I know. On top of this, manufacturers end the scale at 45 degree, sometimes the smarter ones at 47 or 48 max but in real life you need angled mitre bevel cuts for crown moldings or trims (non vertical but tilted) and teh walls are never 90 degree so you need up 50-55 degree in both direction