There's probably a hundred shops or market stalls in London alone selling beautiful clothes made from African fabric by African people for about a tenth of the price of these Dior pieces in very similar designs.
@pink girl how can she be specific when there are large number of different Africans here in the UK ethnicity and nationality wise? At least have a reason to be triggered.
Can you do some styling videos, fashion tips or a video where you talk about trends or ANYTHING that you actually like? We all know the things you hate but give us some insight on what you would like to see regular people wear 😂
I'm an African that had the chance to grow up in Africa and travel around the continent during my childhood and I've seen women as well as men wearing "super wax" (or kitenge in East Africa ) on a daily basis and in different occasions.....from that, this collection is a total failure from what I did see. From the choice of the prints to their combination, it;s obvious that there was no African couturiers that was seriously involved in this collection.
alain kov I was thinking the same thing it seemed like she just did her regular designs and slapped batik on them but managed to squeeze a few Moroccan-inspired silhouettes and don’t forget about the coloniser chic looks lmao
I’m moroccan and all i can say the prints used i have never seen a moroccan women wearing them, and the way the caftans were made noooothing to do with the actual moroccan caftans, and that’s sad cause there tooooons of « fashion inspo » that could have been done if an actual moroccan artist was actually involved Very disappointed
unfortunately many people seem to think the african continent and culture is all one thing. like "sure let's add some colorful prints that's african right?"
I'm also really disappointed as a Moroccan woman. I don't see any Moroccan fashion inspiration in this collection. Instead I see a lot of colonizer looks which is so disrespectful to Africa and its culture
am Algerian and hearing you speaking so correctly about colonisation, Africa, cultural appropriation makes me love you even more, plus dude you are soo funny you cured my depression lol.
I was so glad you included the thing they did about the traditional Romanian 'inspired' collection..i thought people just ignored it because it was just another Eastern European thing which they never care about
European fashion houses actually culturally appropriate a ton of things from different european cultures all the time, for some reason people se to act as if because they are a european house they just can go around stealing shit from other cultures. Like Dolce and Gabbana obsession with Spain and Spanish culture when they don't use Spanish models for their Spanish inspired collections.
@@Andrea-dm4gd D & G used to use interesting, non-crossover Spanish actresses in their print ads, long ago and far away...also, I thought that Romanian thing was some kind of Game of Thrones tribute, so the inspiration escaped me!
@@Andrea-dm4gdI´m fucking tired of the cultural aproppiation shit! I'm spanish and i don´t give a fuck of who "aproppiates" my culture, for me it means apreciation that some other culture find mine beautiful, as long as they have respect and don´t think that spain is all flamenco paella and sangria! I'll be glad if they try to make fashion with all the different cultures inside spain
@@naiaragalvez8509 D&G can use Spanish models AT LEAST for the Spanish inspired collections they are making money selling stuff that Spaniards invented and none of that money going to any Spanish person. That's unfair. Period. They can use the culture but make sure Spaniards also benefit from you using it. Some people take "culture appropriation" to far but in this case is clear as day.
@@naiaragalvez8509 I'm sorry but the fact that this doesnt bother you is a privilege. As a Nigerian I watch every fashion season as one brand after the other takes bits and pieces of our culture and then puts some subtle reference to "African inspired" bullshit while they go ahead to use non-nigerian designers, non-nigerian fabric makers, non-nigerian basically everything. Meanwhile the Nigerian fashion industry, despite being one of the largest growing in the world, is being rated 3rd or 4th class globally to very people who use our shit. The continent just less than 100 years ago started becoming independent from people who came in violently to take our resources because they too thought we were saving us. So there are alot of people who dont want to have their shit taken, again, by people who claim to be celebrating us without doing anything to actually do it. It's way too soon, also we can celebrate ourselves. I'm guessing there are alot of Spanish people who feel the same
I feel like this collection also ignored the really interesting colonial history of the African print itself: (in modern times) it was originally made in Indonesia then mass produced and exported by the British and Dutch trading companies to Africa once they realised there was a large market there. They have certainly been claimed as an emblem of Africa now but it’s telling that a European designer sees something originally that was imported to Africa through Europe as the symbol of Africa and then tries to ignore all of the colonialist history behind that symbol?
Holy shit yes! I'm Indonesian, and I'm honestly disgusted by this collection. Cause the prints are so so so similar to batiks that i know in Indonesia. It's just like, my culture is stolen and being sell for like thousands of dollars. I'm mad
Galliano was the only one who understood the DNA of Dior. His collections were always very true to the Dior silouette yet very modern and edgy. His legacy and fingerprint are undeniable and truely unmatched. Got nothing against Chiuri but she isn't the right fit for the house.
@Alvin Anis Raf was absolutely briliant ! His easthetic combined with the DNA of Dior was really beautiful and elegant. It was a little more subdued and conceptual but stunning nontheless. I totaly agree.
There was nearly anything Moroccan besides the caftans, the white lace/cut-out dresses near the end and some silver jewelry. Jacquemus did a better job interpreting the Moroccan atmosphere with his souq collection.
I understand the history of Dior with Marocco, especially Yves Saint Laurent as well. She tried But for Maria Grazia to be calling Marroccan , which is north african magreb culture as just plain african culture inspiration is very irresponsible considering we literally have many different cultures and fabrics and prints we use all over the continent. Its like almost a colonization way of just meshing it alll and calling it African. People tend to do that in the occidental world just call Africa a country when its a continent with many different cultures, languages and people! She could’ve have use local african designers and textiles experts and feels to get inspiration. One of my favorite model Adesuwa who actually walked the show, did a story video on her instagram talking to and having Maria Grazia explaining her reasearch, the backlash, her take on the collection and what she tried to do and i was just like 🙄🙄 disappointing to say the least. She DIDNT EXPLAIN SHIT! Overall they were some beautiful pieces but...
@@KO-nb5zv That's a very ignorant statement you have made .You saying they are more "european" what does that even mean .Literally East Africa had more "europeans" than north Africa for decades .South Africa has the highest number of "europeans" .Your statement is trying to white wash north Africa which is ignorant . Africans are different and diverse but it has nothing to do with Europeans.
@@KO-nb5zv shocked by your comment and clear lack of knowledge. Just like many countries in Africa, the North has affiliation with Europe mostly because of colonisation. There was a Berber culture before that of the indigenous people that is still reflected in the food, clothing, traditions and customs. North Africa is as much African as the rest of the continent and white people are not to be credited for our diversity.
Edwin Fanice you can't deny that North Africa had more relation with Europe centuries before colonization. Phoenicians, romans, etc... The comments before me aren't claiming that north africa is europe lol and one example of this "closeness" is the mediterranian diet...
Honestly I don't think any of these French people should be taking "Inspiration" from Africa, certainly not North Africa. YSL himself was born into a colonial system in Algeria that he benefitted from as a wealthy white man. The French have the audacity to take women's veils off during the Algerian war of revolution, to ban hijab, to call henna dirty, to make nonsense fashion rules that specifically say our fashion is trash especially if it's traditional, now they want a piece of that fashion they disrespect? Unless dior gets taken over by North Africans it should stay out of North African business unless it's promoting designers and brands from the region.
@Thornback he has no problem with woman running fashion houses. What the problem is is that Maria Grazia is appropriating people's heritage and culture for profit. If you look up "hiplatina dior escaramuza" there's a great article outlining the problem.
@Thornback As a women I don't think it's that deep sis. Dior is a huge name and the fact that we have mofos like Maria Grazia running this shit show is hilarious so the hate is honestly deserved. He's shitting on her because she actually sucks, not because she's a woman. Her being a woman has nothing to do with anything. He has also spilled the tea on many other fashion designers, both female and male if you watch his videos. Also also, this is Luke's channel and this channel is not made for everyone. It's supposed to be bashful to the people who deserve the hate like Maria Grazia so yeahhh. If you're trying to find positivity or something this is not the place for you
Thornback He is a fashion critic. He criticises. If Grazia took time to consider her looks and think about what direction she’s making dior head to, he would congratulate her on that.
Damn, I legit thought it was only me that thought MGC has been trying waaaayyyy too hard with african prints. Even in her last collection. I think we are all tired of MGC at Dior. We need another person there like Phoebe Philo
I'm so glad that model spoke out on WHY ARE YOU DOING THIS????? There were a few lovely prints that were restrained and universally pleasing - simplicity is elegance. Didn't Coco herself say that elegance is refusal?
I love these prints, I loved them even more two years ago when all the African independent designers were featuring them on IG. The Hoodoo Priestess that cleans my energy says she channels Christian Dior. And he told her that Maria Grazia is as thirsty and desperate as dehydrated man in Sahara . She speaks French.
The amazing thing about fashion is that it's entirely subjective. You like something? A million other people do too and a million others hate it. The thing that's intimidating is the historical references he has, which take time but it's not impossible. It's like any field.
I think when I said "I don't like it" came more from a place of unfamiliarity. Fashion has never done me any favours, other than the obvious protection from the elements. Point is that I respect Luke's worldview; and it's application to the fashion industry is something I wish more people did in their respective fields 😊
@@nope9182 another weird thing about fashion is that it's highly cyclical and all rather unexpected in trends. Like right now Walmart Dad couture has been on trend and even 3 or 4 years ago that was still an embarrassing style to exhibit. The biggest element of style is just doing you and feeling good about it, and people will pick up on that and respect you because of your confidence.
Im from Indonesia. And thank you for mentioning Indonesian Batik. Original traditional wax Batik is hard to make. The artisants must fully constentrate and takes a lot of times. Edit: that pants on 13:03 looks like a gift from holiday places here in Indonesia like Pangandaran Beach, Bali, etc..i have lot of them lmao. The cotton is so soft tho.
"Colonizer chic" LOL as someone half colonizer and half colonized, ethnically, I found this great. I am glad people are starting to understand cultural appropriation and the destructive effects of colonies. All continents of the world have been, in one way or another, touched by European colonizers and the destructive effects it has on local land and populace due to disrespect and racism. People also don't realize that the colonizing of continents such as America, Africa and Australia is still happening in the world today, for example in the Middle East. Not many people understand what is happening in war zones, and that the local cultures are being appropriated by colonizers. Many Europeans still say to this day "we brought culture to {said} region." When in truth the locals already had their own and didn't ask to have a new one in exchange for their lands. Never. If anything they fought Europeans out with all they had, at times to the last of them (read up on Tanzania and the killing of the last Aborigine for example). The real reason colonies exist is to exploit resources anyway. Look at British East India Company or The Opium Wars. There is so much to this, I could go all day. Anyway. Good job, Luke.
Uhm, ever heard or Ghengis Khan, the Mongols, the Huns, etc? It's not just Europeans that conquered and colonized, this stuff is as old as history itself. Don't call yourself "half colonizer and half colonized", because EVERY SINGLE RACE has conquered and colonized others. Everyone has everything in them. Disregarding this is dangerous, because it is still happening in parts of the world. There are regional wars in central Africa where one black people is trying to conquer and oppress another black people. Women are raped as a means of war, by PEOPLE OF THE SAME RACE. Claiming that colonialism is the sole reason for all of these problems is lenient and doesn't help at all, because you take all responsibility away from the people who actually commit these atrocities at this moment. There is more to history than just mainstream eurocentric history (which is funny, because on one hand, you justly criticize Europeans and on the other hand you completely disregard any history that doesn't involve Europeans), and more importantly, there is a PRESENT that you are not fully acknowledging by seemingly blaming Europeans for everything. You can only rid the world of racism if you acknowledge that ALL humans are capable of the same instincts, emotions, and intelligence. Not everyone acts on them, but they are there. The hunger for power is a universally human thing, and for that exact reason colonialism is as old as humanity itself.
@@EEEEeee2748 Why is it wrong? I never said Europeans never colonized, I just said they weren't the only ones and that disregarding this is dangerous. You can't group people together by just races, history and culture is way more complex than that. If you can't tell me what's wrong with my comment, I can't reconsider anything. I am open to new impulses to think about. I don't know where you are from, but there is more to history than just the past 400 years, and there is more to history than just European history. People of other races/continents also interacted with each other, independently of Europeans. DNA shows Asian ancestry in Eastern Europeans, North African ancestry in Sicilians, Mediterranean ancestry in Ethiopians, etc. Most of this stuff did not get in there through love marriages. Conquest and colonialization is a human thing, not a European thing.
At this point when I see houses pulling Cultural approp after they saw Gucci, Marc Jacobs, etc get dragged, I'm convinced they're doing it for hype/clicks.
"call your mom" "Do you know where your children are" - Did you just give us all a message about appreciating our families and taking responsibility for our family's safety and relationship? If so, I see what you're doing and I'm here for it. I appreciate that :)
I know this was only a small part of the video but Mexicans with European features is actually common depending on the state you live in. Yes, there are areas in Mexico where people look predominantly indigenous like Oaxaca or Yucatán but there are also Mexicans who have blonde hair and blue eyes. I am not defending Maria Grazia or Dior. The fact that people in Mexico do not fit one appearance means that the runway should have included a variety of Mexican models. From the tall güeras to the shorter but still beautiful morenas.
I live in a predominantly Hispanic and Latin American area. You are so right. Mexicans tend to be lighter and taller in Northern, upper Central and Western Mexico thanks to more Spanish ancestry. Eastern and Southern Mexico get darker and/or shorter, especially in heavily indigenous areas. A lot of immigrants from Germany, Ireland, and the US South brought lighter features and European blood with them. Mexico has a neat history. India is another place that has a lot of ethnic and cultural diversity that gets ignored in the media. I know a few people from different regions.
Let me just say as Black women this honestly warms my heart. We do not see many allies like you calling out people for culture appropriation. Please continue to EDUCATE them.
I thought I loved you before, turns out the shit gets deeper. Thank you so much for pointing out the continuous appropriation of African culture by certain colonizers. I am so tired of people saying it doesnt exist, or saying that all cultures mix so it's all good without acknowledging the history and current divide. I am so glad you came for her, and I have nothing more to add.
As a Moroccan myself, I think this was a calculated half-assed executed collection. Moroccan caftans are having a moment now in north Africa and the middle east and since the rich middle eastern people represent the second high percentage of these luxury brands clients(after rich Chinese people) they just wanted to hop on the wagon and up the sales. I am saying it is half-assed because I see hardly anything from what sets the Moroccan traditional caftans apart from other south-African/middle eastern/turkish/persian long sleeved long dresses.
I learned to do Batik in 9th grade. I was the only black student in class and my teacher was so excited for me to be learning how to do it because she felt like she was bringing me a major cultural moment in an environment that was overwhelmingly caucasian in influence. She was very sweet about it and thanks to her sincere encouragement and extra attention, mine turned out the best. lol Also, I feel like the face of the model with one odd sleeve expresses everything I'm feeling about that sad mashup.
Seeing these clothes are just so weird because i'm an indonesian and we always wears batik every week. And maria is claiming that it's an african inspired collection, but actually it's kinda more like indonesian inspired collection.
Can u do a series of top designers from different eastern countries? It would be really interesting to see more of other cultures and how they are evolving instead of just looking at the French-esque fashion evolution throughout the media . And that might also help to let those things grow on us and we could develop a taste about it . Please like this comment so that Luke could do this video ❤️
This isn't new. They also did that Romanian inspired collection...and then never mentioned that they basically copy and pasted the designs from really really really old traditional Romanian clothing...funnily enough it was in their Resort collection. Seems it's a trend for them.
I haven't watched the entire video yet, but I just want to share this. So my country has a lot of beautiful traditional clothing and patterns from the many tribes that lived here, and I once saw a documentary about the weavers of these fabrics. These high-end designers are really shady and manipulative. They came to these weavers, asking if they can take pictures of the patterns because they were going to consult with their bosses or something and if they like it they were going to collaborate with the weavers and pay them for their designs. Of course they agreed since most of them lived in poverty and were uneducated, but these designers ended up just straight up stealing those patterns and it honestly hurt seeing these innocent people being used like that. They later said that these designers did this thievery a lot, not just to them but the other tribes as well. This is why I never buy anything from high-end designers even if I have the money ):
YES- Its like just saying "Asian inspi- oh..... people already do that dont they- ew. Just.... ew.... every country in Africa, like with every other continent, is vastly different and unique from one another. Like, seriously, you cant just group them all into one goddamn bubble.
Why did that thing with the anthropologist remind me of that scene in Black Panther where T'Challa went to an African gallery in a museum and the person/expert for it was a white lady?
it should. Wrong character though: it was Eric Killmonger who went to the museum in Black Panther. As a trained Anthropologist, I'm a little dubious of this Anthropologist's credentials given the results. At the very least I'd say she has not been keeping up with recent developments in the field. Honestly, I now really want to draw my own Moroccan-inspired collection because I think it would be better and more respectful than this crap.
The fabric at 14.00 is kalled ikat or kasuri it's technically not a print technique but a method of making a pattern by dyeing the yarn in sections before weaving which is why you get those "fuzzy" edges : > It's a super cool technique!
MOROCCO !! ~~~ 🌟🇲🇦🇲🇦🇲🇦🇲🇦🇲🇦🌟 Edit : I just heard what he said about Maria, and like... I should say, I don't feel good at all about that... I have been seeing those garnement since I was born, so.... Using them just for the title of "appreciating" culture is very dishonorable.
The whole thing is that people in our country don't profit one cent from it, yet she is taking dresses and fabrics and ideas that are hundreds of years old and selling them at extremely high prices to high end clients.
SaOrA6 6 That’s what it is, appropriating culture he is right! As a Moroccan you should be ashamed for standing up for Maria when she’s evidently in the wrong. There are literally so many niche designers in Morocco who deserve so much more credit than Maria and Dior.
Not a modern Dior fan - but as a post-colonial black woman ( Suriname/Madagascar) born in the USA, I have to say I saw a lot that I liked: batik is dope when done well & Indonesia was a Dutch colony as well so I can appreciate the technique. What it had to do with Morocco? Not sure. I also LOVE a caftan - Mother rocked maxi dresses and floaty floral mini trapezes when entertaining, and I saw some lovely ones. The big skirt with boxy top - loved the skirt! Colonization chic? Well, we've all been colonized and independence hasn't been one big world party. It did look odd. You skipped some lovely pieces to rip others. And black clothes for evening/resort isn't going anywhere. I loved the hats/headpieces but had to laugh because they knocked off Koto Missies from Suriname, evolved from traditional Nigerian women's headpieces. Slavery - it's everywhere! Also - Morocco is primarily North African Muslims, Jews, & Catholics left over from French/Spanish colonisation: the French stole the fabric technique when they snapped up Viet Nam. And you need to study textiles! That blue fabric was obviously raw silk & linen. And it was gorgeous. Choose Love.
I love your vibe so much and the way you talk about the fashion world :) it s nice. Also, in the futurre can you make a video about Alexander McQueen s recent shows? I d like to hear your opinion about the new( old) creative director and her approach to the McQueen vision?
Make a video explaining why it's cultural appropriation coming from a designer you dislike, versus "inspiration" when it's a designer you like or don't really mind
I just recently did a thrift shop splurge and I used your comments to tailor my purchases! I'm super happy with what I've curated so far. Thank you for your hilarious input Luke lol
Hey Luke! Loved your comments on the collection and the cultural baggage that comes with it. I’m from Morocco, and I thought your analysis was very accurate. Also, I can see the African inspiration with the wax and the batiks, but I feel that moroccan artistery hasnt been really appreaciated or showcased enough in the collection, in my opinion... there is soooo much more to it... And, more than ever, I love you Luke! I want your voice to be my inner voice in my head hahaha
Watching from 2020, and I super appreciate Luke recognizing that MGC did right, but it's the bare minimum, so doesn't merit any extra points for humanity. Haha! We're so used to seeing bad stuff from these big names, we tend to glorify them when they do something correct. Wherein, it's their job! Kudos to u
Catherine Ménard Monast they're trying to reach out to a younger audience and a larger audience through a RU-vid 'influencer'. I don't get it either, she doesn't embody the brand at all.
Dude.... I'm moroccan and trust me we have AMAZING textile culture and let me tell you, NONE of those fabrics are to be found/seen in Morocco. They are such Sub Saharian african prints its so disrespectful to call them moroccan because it steals from the cultures they are ACTUALLY from like Nigeria, Mali, Mauritania.. it's such a white ass perspective to assume african countries all have the same culture & aesthetic.. Moroccan fabrics have NEVER had prints of animals, prints are exclusively embroidered or woven, never drawn and don't even get me started on the shapes 🤦🏽♀️ Overall, this whole excuse of a collection was more offensive than anything, nothing moroccan, very white washed and absolutely NO TRUE representation of Moroccan fashion culture.
Okay, lets be honest. The whole high fashion resort aspect is so when rich with people take over certain countries this is their expensive way of "fitting in" with the desired destination and this notion should've died long ago. Although i hate this collection as much or if not more than the one Stella McCartney it wasn't at much of a rip off as hers which was actually the dresses aunties make and you can find in areas of London just for the higher prices. We can all agree that Maria doesn't have an original or creative bone in her body, and is just making in most part basic clothes for the masses with money that really just equals Zara with better fabrics and sometimes cuts. My real issue is with the business that allow her and other designers to rip off other cultures and not feel the need to give back by at least putting models of colour or using people from the areas that your inspired by to help create your overprices dress and bag. Maria doesn't own Dior whereas Stella owns Stella. Someone at LVMH or Bernard himself shove said - cute Maria, but back to the drawing board and we should've never seen this as is, but they didn't. So, who's really to blame season after season?
people there's tonnes of real African designers making far more beautiful clothes that you can find online and support. this collection is truly awful and offensive
I just feel uncomfortable with her taking these cultural elements and exploiting it for the rich and famous to buy and wear. Like I appreciate the appreciation of the culture, but let’s be honest, Dior is a VERY white brand (as far as clientele). It just feels wrong and uncomfortable. Love your videos, as always though. You did a wonderful job.
Im curious on how maria grazia even became the creative director of dior in the first place. At some point she had to have realised that this was a bad business decision. Did not one of her employees think to tell her that people would be pissed 🤦♀️🤦♀️
Thank you for talking about the Romanian garment! Tory Burch did a similar thing by copying a Romanian vest from the Metropolitan Museum of Art. She even called it an "African print jacket" when in fact it was identical to the Romanian vest.
I think it's important to realise that Dior is a business aiming at the emerging and existing market of wealthy africans who are looking for luxury brands. nothing wrong with it. the same way the emerging wealthy in china love buying western clothes.
Then they should use more African models (no all white shoots in African clothing), consult African anthropologists, etc. They could easily do better. But to be clear, I'm not saying it's wrong for Dior to embrace multi-cultural clients or to cater to them. My problem is solely how some things are done. And I can appreciate that things are getting better, awareness wise.
unsolicited advice: those stripes of light in your videos are called "phasing" or "flickering" and you can reduce it by lowering the shutter speed or adjusting the FPS. You don't have to, I'll still watch, but if you were curious about how to fix it, that's how ❤️
