Dirt Late Model and Dirt Modified Ride Height Over Smash Numbers; Old Fashioned Car Setup 

Thanks for watching.

Thanks for watching.

But I agree if your center to center isn’t correct for the certain corners ride height on the smasher your ride height will be off if you were to measure it from the frame like we used to do. But I run a lazer chassis, and they have already used all the data acc work for us and share that

Good to hear. If you see the same ride height change and finish smash loads as they give you, you’re good to go. I do recommend people double check their car so they see the same smash corner loads dynamically that their car builder is giving them. Thanks for watching.

@@KevinKatzenberg I think too many people are confusing wheel load and smash numbers. They are two different things.

It really depends on a lot of things; car, driver, corner radius, etc. What always seemed to work well for the people I helped was a 250 rr and some sort of a soft stack on the rf with a dive spring or very stiff bump stop at the bottom. I don’t think there is an ideal, ‘magic’ thing, so many people are trying to sell others. You just need to learn you smasher numbers and field test. Thanks for watching.

@@KevinKatzenberg aight so if my driver drives straight I'd need more RR load number than someone elbows up when. It's wet ,But as night goes on what's your Traction move and Tighten move

@@joshpatrum7887 I don’t know if I would raise the ride height on the RR if your driver drives straight. Usually the straighter someone drives, the harder it will be to get the car on the RR. Without a big cushion, you could lower both right side rods equally, soften the right side shocks, and take a little rebound out of the left to let the car roll easier. It’s hard to give a definite answer on this. A lot f factors at play.

Okay say I got my car pretty standard as the knights licks all I want to soften my 3x number up on the right front what number do I soften up on my right rear

@@joshpatrum7887 it really depends on how much the track slows down. It kind of trial and error.

Smash numbers are good for people who actually know how to use them. I'm finding more and more people who want to talk smash numbers and they really don't understand the basics. I was helping one car this year and kept showing him the correlation between smash numbers and measuring springs. It took a while, but once he got it, he got it. You need to understand the basics first. I'm pretty sure when someone reaches the Davenport level, they have a pretty good grasp on the basics. In the right hands, smash machines are the only way to setup a car because it takes out all the scrub bind when scaling.

That’s why I have stuck with my Barry Wright’s. They’re always a phone call away.

That’s to bad. Can you see where I’m coming from with how important a finished ride height is?

@@Triefenbachracing Barry Wrights are some damn good cars!

They do. They give you a install load which is static ride height loads at correct center to center for each corner like he’s talking about. Then they give you full travel loads on what you should run “standard” then you work from there

@@chazbuchinsky19 are you just talking about the three and four inch travel numbers? maybe we just know the same thing by two different descriptions (finished load / 3" 4" load) ?

Oh man, you got grain scales? Grain scales are one of the best kept secrets to racing. They are way more accurate, typically, than electric scales. Man, don’t scrap em. Thanks for watching.

I do help a couple guys out in my area once in a while. There is so much that goes into tuning cars, I try to not get into the consulting gig. If you have any questions, you can post them below the videos and I will try to answer them to the best of ability.