I bought a used ‘17 Ridgeline about 2 years ago and one of the first things I noticed was how the truck vibrated, made weird noises and the tac would bounce around quite a bit. My family thought I was crazy, but after doing some research learned about the VCM. I HATED it. I’ve had this product on my truck for over a year now and have loved it. No issues and all of those “problems” have gone away. Best $100 I’ve spent on the truck.
Still going strong? I purchased a 2017 ridgeline two months ago and i have the rpm fluctuations. Im going to change the trans fluid (4 drop method) and filter tomorrow and have one of these svcm on the way. I LOVE this truck with the exception of the rpm fluctuations, theyre awful!
@@midroad-2443Happy new year, yeah your ridgeline needs a drain and fill ×3 ( ×2 is ok) of Dw1 or flavor of atf fluid. Then atf every 30k or yearly ( just do transfer + diff at the same time too) do not overfill atf, measure it hot and look for line in the middle of cold and hot line of the trans dipstick. VCM has been good in the J35Y6 engine with Direct injection, there is less opportunity for oil consumption and DI burns even and cooler than than Port injecton which was the problem with the Odyssey and accords . However, VCM doesn't play well with the Honda 6 speed auto which is why I recommend to disable. The TCU is programed to go out of Torque converter lock up and slip the clutch to matching rpm for smooth 6 to 3 cycle switch with the active motor mounts to handle the 3 banger vibrations. Then there is the Dw1 formula that is heavy in Zinc or ZDDP, as an all in one antiwear additive. It's fine as far as chemistry which is closer to manual atf with 10× less Zinc used for creating Triboflims on the clutch material as a wear layer that will rebuild as long as there is enough addtive package. Now think about slipping a clutch in a manual you aren't doing it often or at all but in this case everytime VCM needs to initiate the clutch will be feathered while going in and out of Torque converter lock up which will pretty much slowly glaze the clutch material resulting in the 'RPM flutter' and 'Torque converter Judder'. Then as the fluid has deteriorated and no longer provides adequate pressure due to the slipping RPM needs to increase to compensate to disengage TQ lock up, feather clutch, VCM engage the fluctuations cycle repeats. (The Judder is TQ clutch in and out) To maintain VCM relies on oil pressure for activition which is connected to the RPM but when there is a slip RPM need to rise to compensate, then falls once pressure us reached; more slippage and RPM rises and falls again ( the flutter). It seems only the people driving the J35Y6 engine gently have more of the RPM flutter
UPDATE: S-VCM module has been installed for well over 5000 miles now.. No decrease in fuel economy at all.. 65mph and not towing or hauling anything yields 28mpg... Super happy with purchase...
@@kgill5 if the engine is a J35Y6 (and I think it is) it should work perfectly. I now have 27,000 miles on it and it easily gets 29mpg not towing. It gets 20-21mpg when towing a 1500 pound bass boat.
Installed about a week ago in my 2012 Pilot EX-L. Easy as pie. No error codes and no more ECO light. Super smooth shifting and a full six cylinders of power!
NOTE: some ECO lights will still show on some models, however the VCM has been disabled. The ECO light on the older versions (before the ECON button) reflect your driving. When your light on the gas pedal the ECO light illuminates. In the newer models the ECO light is the green hue around the instrument cluster. The ECON button in the newer Hondas, LOWERS A/C output, deadens the gas pedal, and extends the transmission gear shifting to save fuel. Thanks for watching.
@@AlpineWarreni have it in my ‘23 Ridgeline. Eco mode still does everything else, just disables the VCM. My AC doesn’t blow as hard, my gas pedal is less responsive and my gears shift more economically when I push the button, so I ride around like that most of the time.
It took more than an year for me to realize that my 'transmission related' issues with my 2018 Pilot is actually due to a damn 'VCM'. After almost 5 visits to dealership and multiple 'Snapshot' sessions with Honda Techline, I am asked to live with it by Honda USA. I think I found the solution!
I installed this on my 2018 Ridgeline six months ago and it really smoothed out the engine. No codes and no difference in the gas milage. Best $120.00 I ever spent. Drives and runs smooth as butter.
I just got it today and installed the switch right away. Easy installation, 10-15 min tops. At start the indicators were shaking but only until the engine started. No warning light. Right out of the bat it felt and sounded different. No more weird weakness from the engine. More power and no more weird vibration. Happy so far. I will update if anything starts to be funny.
@@dropdabeat442 I had to remove it when the emissions light came on and Honda replaced all injectors under warranty. I still have to put it back in. I assume that with the vcm cut out, the injection system was working all the time and crapped out like it did on many other engines (hence extended warranty 10 years/150k). Should be all good now. I just need to find the time to put it back in.
@@s4-mtb678 Thanks for your answer. So this VCM bypass device can also damage injection system or just use it more than it normally should? I hate the unstable transmission caused by VCM, so I was thinking about getting this VCM bypasser.
@@dropdabeat442no it won't damage the injection system, that is faulty already on this own. To the contrary it will save your engine from other more catastrophic failures. In my case my assumption was that cutting off the vcm the whole injection system was running all the time so it increased the chances for a failure on one injector that was coming no matter what. On my 2017 was covered under warranty so it wasn't a big deal at all. 90k and fresh injectors for free it's good.
Just installed on my 2019 RTL-T. UNREAL. I so wish i knew about it sooner. It drives so much better. No cracks, creaks, shudder sounds, loss of power, jerkiness... I have 125k on it and it drives better than new. Awesome product!
I just installed on my 2017 pilot, working great. had a little trouble, because of engine light on, cleared and reinstalled, great after service/advice!!
Just installed this on my 2015 Pilot. Took about 20 minutes (5 of it spent trying to get the old and dusty sensor plug out). No error codes. ECO light is now off. Throttle response is a lot better and driving seems smoother yet ready to go when I need it.
I bought it a year ago and finally got around to putting it on today. It would have been a lot easier if I had hands the size of a baby koala bear. Started it up and drove about 15 miles. No error codes AND NO ECO popped up. 2013 Pilot with 225k that I bought used last Summer.
I did buy that '21 Ridgeline.. I towed my 20' travel trailer (3600 pounds) and it pulls fantastic at 55-60mph and gets 14.7-15 mpg towing.. Dont plan on a huge amount of towing but its nice to know there are no performance issues while towing..
@@josephpetrizio78 If you're getting that while towing, that's not too bad... If you're not towing, then you have a major problem and need to connect a dealer level scan tool for analysis...
I found that a long-nose needle nose plyers work great to remove the connector. Just squeeze hard enough to compress the locking mechanism. Don't crush it.
Put on my 2012 Honda Odyssey with minimal effort. Does exactly what they say. I do get occasional error code but a $20 OBD2 scanner and I quickly clear it when needed.
I have a 2019 rigeline about 29k miles so far no issues. I also have a 2007 odyssey with a VCM1 engine with 225k miles No issues except for oil consumption. Switching to high mileage synthetic blend 5w20 helped that and change PCV. Now it’s down to about 1 qt every oil change. It use to be 2 qts.
I have a 2010 Honda Pilot. In 2017, my warranty has expired, and about two month after that with 72,000 miles, my spark plug went out (cylinder 3). Dealership told me a new spark plug was needed, and I paid for all the spark plugs to be changed. By November 2022 with 102,000 miles, check engine light turned on regarding cylinder 3. I found it strange that the same spark code popped up. Anyhow, my friend referred me to his friend that works for Honda service department to get the engine examined. During the examination, I was told that the piston ring needed to be replaced for cylinder 3. Since I was able to get a better deal to get the motor rebuilt by him, I agreed to it. During the tear down of the engine, half of the cylinder bank are black and brown. I was told that the VCM is most likely the issue. I wish I knew this many years ago when I had the spark plug issue before. I am curious about what happened to the class action lawsuit in 2013? I never received any letter regarding it. If anyone has info, please let me know.
Just installed an S-VCM on wife's 2016 Pilot two days ago. No error lights, no over heating, all looks good. We have 52K miles on this Pilot purchased new. Before the last oil change at 10000 miles, it had consumed almost 1 qt of oil, and the oil was very black. This got me reading and looking at videos about the oil change interval and VCM. From now on, we will not go past 5000 miles before an oil change. 10000 miles seems to be a recipe for oil burning all by itself, per many good mechanics. Our pilot consumed 207 gallons of regular gas last year and got 24.8 mpg. This was all around home, never more than 30 miles from home. It will get nearly 26 mpg freeway, fantastic gas mileage and power. I am tracking the Pilot mileage with the S-VCM installed, and curious to see any drop. My 2004 Odyssey at 105K miles gets 21.3 mpg around home with no oil consumption and 25 mpg freeway. 2004 was the last year before VCM was added. I has been a great trouble free van.
your 2016 pilot has 52k miles, that's an average of 7k miles a year? I wouldn't go more than one year on an oil change. Hopefully, you are using full synthetic oil.
Question on overheating, so since the S-VCM tricks the computer into thinking it’s below 167 degree F to disable VCM, do the fans automatically turn on when the engine is at normal operating temp. Of 200-210 regardless? I want to buy this device just concerned about overheating!
NOTE: some ECO lights will still show on some models, however the VCM has been disabled. The ECO light on the older versions (before the ECON button) reflect your driving. When your light on the gas pedal the ECO light illuminates. In the newer models the ECO light is the green hue around the instrument cluster. The ECON button in the newer Hondas, LOWERS A/C output, deadens the gas pedal, and extends the transmission gear shifting to save fuel. Thanks for watching.
I have a 2021 Honda Pilot, and I Install the S-VCM today. It works great !! I didn’t really notice it till I got on the highway, and started going up and down moderate sized hills. Normally, it will start to slow down, and then it will downshift, aggressively speed up with the RPMs hitting 5000, and then it will take a while to shift back up into the gear that it was in. It no longer does that, it keeps the gear, and just powers up the hill. I have one side effect, that I am COMPLETELY THRILLED with. The idle stop/start stoped working, meaning it no longer turns off at intersections, without me pressing the button. I followed the instructions perfectly, I mean, this isn’t exactly rocket science. I was driving today, made a couple stops, forgot to press the button, and realized it wasn’t turning off at traffic signals. I know The S-VCM Has nothing to do with the auto start/stop, but it is no longer working, and I’m not too upset about it 😂 If I find out why, I will let you know. In the meantime, if you have any ideas as to why, Let me know.
The Auto start/Stop returned the next day, so I guess I will be purchasing the auto start stop delete after all . . . The S-VCM, is working GREAT though !!
@@davidderfus3462 Im a Chrysler/ jeep tech and auto start stop is a PITA which always fails, and when it does, it pops up messages like.. "start/stop not ready, cabin heating", Start stop not ready, cabin cooling", "start stop not ready, seatbelt not fastened", start stop not ready, battery not fully charged", "start stop not ready, Hood open", etc... And that is from FCA/ Jeep dodge, Mopar. So if you ignore it, then you have to look at messages and warning lights on dash due to it bypassed or needs serviced.
Very cool. I'll be getting one for my 21 ridgeline.. probably volds warranty but I don't care.. I felt the hesitation between shifts and downshifting.. I thought that what it was to save on gas.
FYI, aftermarket items cannot void your warranty unless the manufacturer can prove your after market add-on is causing the problem. Kind of win-win. If they can prove the add-on is causing trouble, you'll know it too!
My first car was a well used 55 Chevy, $35 running in 1968, it had throttle lag when accelerating just like my new 2021 HPD Sport, the engine quit when stopping at stop signs or lights just like my HPD, and it had cylinder deactivation due to excessive oil consumption fouling spark plugs similar to HPD, awesome😂🎉😅❤😊technological genius
The IC engine is an efficient and simple power generator. I just bought a 20222 RTL-E and started researching issues. Two major sacrifices that were made to the gods of CAFE: 1. VCM and 2. auto start/stop. What horrible assaults on the engine and it's longevity these designs are. Considering what the designers are forced to come up with, I feel the benefits, if any, come at a huge down road price. By shutting down half the the pistons the remaining three now has to power the deadheads to spin against closed off cylinders compressing air on the upstroke and then drawing a vacuum on the downstroke. This all creates work needed which defeats any savings. Then dealing with thermal issues, lubrication and off-on cycling for the fuel system makes no sense. Auto start/stop is another mechanical disaster with stresses on every component from battery to starter to motor mounts to fuel system solenoids to drivability. I'm in process to making these so called enhancements go away.
I don't worry about it, I tow 2 times a month and don't notice much if anything except lower mpgs. It only activates at hwy speeds so not pulling 5000lbs and flying Im good. No issues with vibration, 2019 RTL E, pull Fishing boat, SXS, camper, sleds. All under 3500lbs., cant beat the Ridge the rest of the month just driving.
The auto start/stop also puts a lot of load on the cam belt. Electric motor torque is maximum at zero RPM. That peak torque is transferred to only a few belt teeth when the engine starts to spin.
Thanks for the excellent analysis of how bad the VCM concept is regarding shutting down half the cylinders and the impact that has on the engine overall. A ridiculous concept which ignores so many other operating factors for the engine.
I have a 2021 Ridgeline EX-L and the VCM system is absolutely horrible! Always jerking and surging, RPM's bouncing around when in the same gear, noticeable change in noise and vibration when it kicks in. Sequential mode is even worse. I am completely surprised that a manufacturer like Honda would sell a vehicle with these types of issues.
Thanks for watching. You either know it’s there or you don’t. This entire comment section is back and forth. I’m with you. Worked great towing the camper this week.
Just to share my experience with others who may be having VCM or similar issues, I'm taking my 2019 Ridgeline (32,000 miles) to the dealer on Monday. In addition to constant vibration (like unbalanced tires) at 70MPH, the truck has developed a tendency for the power to "surge" up and down while in the same gear, which is readily visible by watching the tach needle bounce all over the place. It's as if the truck has bad fuel in it, and it can't keep the power level consistent as it "misses". It makes for a very unpleasant driving experience, which sucks because this thing used to ride as smooth as glass. I suggested VCM to the dealer, and they said off the top of their heads, the three most likely culprits were the torque converter, the motor mounts, or the VCM. Motor mounts make sense to me for the vibration, but not the power surging. I will post an update after they evaluate it. I'm really hoping it's something quick and easy, like the computer just needing a hard reset or something like that.
I have a 2019 ridge line as well, same issue, and they said after multiple attempts, told me it’s normal. They tried it in a few other vehicles and it’s common. On mine, they replaced all sorts of stuff including a whole new transmission to no avail. I’m not sure what to do at this point.
So I took the truck in, as scheduled... and of course, it drove perfectly fine on that day, after displaying symptoms every day for about a month prior. Technicians could not, of course, duplicate the reported issues. I'm sure I'm not the only one who has experienced such things. Must be damned gremlins in my engine compartment!
I have a 16 Pilot . Drive with the " ECO " 98% of the time . Never , ever noticed any loss of power/vibration . My only issue was the " Start/Stop " button . Conferred with the University of U Tube, brought a new button & replaced it myself .
You are missing out on 100% of the Air Conditioning. If you can’t tell the difference with the a/c, the dead pedal accelerator or expanded shifting vs NON ECO; you will not notice the difference in the VCM. Thanks for watching.
I had the VCM Muzzler awhile back and I got tired of the error codes and just took it off. Didn't notice much change. Didn't get the vibration everyone talks about and oil consumption wasn't bad for me. About half a quart or less for 7k miles so never looked for another way to disable the vcm.
My honda odyssey feels like my steering knuckle is lose or something. I mean my springs are terrible aftermarket quick struts, they bind. But I feel like my suspension is just falling apart, but all my front end joints, etc are ok enough. But the most lag I get is definitely when the eco light comes on, & I accelerate or decelerate. I really think it's the damn vcm ruined my mounts, the ones I can't easily inspect myself. And until I get hired into a shop, I don't have the equipment to check. So I think I'm gonna throw a muzzler on the vcm & see if it all gets better. It shudders a lot too. Almost feels like a stuck throttle plate, so I'll check that too. Feels like multiple front end issues....
The other MAJOR issue with the VCM is when it shuts down cylinders they are all at different temperatures which with an aluminum engine block can cause warping and leads to the vehicle using or "burning" oil between oil changes. It also creates sludge which is very bad for oil distribution throughout the engine as well as gums up the piston rings. So do you want fuel economy with less engine life or do you want to sacrifice a very small amount of fuel economy for longevity and reliability that Honda is known for? I personally have chosen the later. I also recommend 5000 mile oil changes with all engines if you've been told that you can go 10,000 read the owners manual or research it. In actuality VERY few people could do this safely as it depends on driving habits. Also our Ridgeline has had the transmission "judder" and was taken to the dealer several times. First they reprogrammed the transmission module per the service bulletin and when it returned they dealer now recommends changing your transmission fluid and filter every 20,000 miles. Every third one they recommend you do a flush. Which is you drain (leaving filter in place), fill, run it for 15 minutes, repeat previous drain, fill, & run procedure, then the third time you drain, replace the filter and fill. They say the "judder" is now caused by transmission oil contamination. This actually has worked and it's not as hard or expensive as it may sound if done yourself. These don't hold much fluid and the filter is external. So if you can change oil then you can do this. Also if you wait for something to "happen" or for signs of something most of the time it's too late to fix. These are known issues with these Honda VCM V6s going back over a decade now.
Not to mention that long term VCM usage can lead to damaged CAT converter as raw oil accumulates over time and ruins it. I also heard the Honda built this VCM mode to pass on emissions. So, the Honda VCM is : Nice from afar but far from nice …. Over time.
I’ve owned several Hondas and maintain the regularly. I’ve never had an issue with using oil. Many high mileage cars that burn oil have worn rings or valve seals. Worn rings are associated with dirty oil, extended oil change intervals, or high mileage. I suspect the oil use issue with VCM is that downstroke creates a vacuum that suck oil past the rings and more so especially if the rings are worn. This makes use of the sVCM more compelling on older high mileage vehicles. However, I plan on installing a S-VCM on my 22 Passport to keep things simple and help the engine and cat converter last longer.
sorry... wildly incorrect on block temps. the water jacket normalizes the temps. sludge is from high temps, low oil flow, and worn out oil/additives, NOT low temps (which we covered already). and the manual already stated to do a change AND flush every 30k so 20k changes and 1 per 3 change flushes is overall easier.
The more I learn about the J engine in the Ridgeline the more I am steering away from it being my next vehicle. Hopefully the Taco 2024 refresh gets coils in the rear and keeps the naturally aspirated 6.
As long as it doesn't rust out and your good with the feel of sitting on the floor. Wonder why more trucks are going unibody unless you have a place to rock crawl
Just watched your video very informative. I’m thinking about buying a new ridgeline, but I’m really worried about the cylinder deactivation. What do you think about longevity of the engine.? The last Toyota I had went over 300,000 miles never had a problem just curious of what your thoughts are.
How late is too late to install the SVCM? My Pilot is at 94,500mi, gave me code P0303 two days ago. Changed cylinder 3 plug and coil, now it’s fine again.
It would seem that the Honda VCM mode ends up doing all kinds of damage to this engine setup…….. Engine, Transmission, Engine mounts and CAT converter……. Oh yeah, Our Bank Accounts !
Just bought one ,been doing a lot of research on this and worth a try on my new 2020 pilot exl with 33k .I do my oil changes at 40% always have each time I've been down almost a quart to half a quart.also I've noticed when driving onto 2nd gear between 17 to 28mph at 1700 1800rpm I'm getting a whosh sound and a slight drop rpm when feathering cruising the gas and feeling of a slight misfire after pilots warmed up .wondering if this is vcm kicking it .but if I and taking off everything is great no shaking no jerking it runs great and don't feel or hear it when on gas pedal accelerating
I did 2 transmission drain and fills yesterday the problem has diminished after the 2nd drain and fill.i did the 1st then drove it and the problem dampened then brought it back home to do a 2nd one after driving it for 20 min getting all the fluid mixed up ,after the 2nd drain and feels like the gears tightened up and the shifts are flawless better then when I bought it.looks like I'll be doing tranny drain and fills every other oil change only cost me 40 bucks for 4 quarts and oil is 35 bucks for full synthetic. So that's the same price as a synthetic oil change if someone did it for me so it's not expensive to do that
I have a 2007 Honda Pilot 4wd does it has the vcm? Mines using at least a quart a week sometimes 2 depending on how much it's driven. Ive read online the vcm was only on the 2006-2008 2wd pilots. If not this what else could be the problem? I changed the pcv valve no difference.
installed this for my wife's 2017 Ridgeline and it seemed to work great right away. What I didn't know is the problem crept back up and I wasn't aware until I drove it recently. I just uninstalled the unit and reinstalled and it seems to be working but, honestly, it almost feels like the problem is still there but it very, very subtle. Almost like it's in the background. Thoughts on this, anyone?
I got a question for the original poster of the video I have a 2018 Honda pilot 43,000 MI I bought the svcm plugged it in now I noticed on the dash on the edge of the RPM gauge and fuel and the coolant gauge there's green LED lights on the edges as if I'm in eco mode is that normal
That’s Honda’s ECO ASSIST. It gives you feedback on your driving. Heavy pedal input it turns grey/white. Easy inputs shows green that you are accelerating at a fuel savings. The ECON button displays a GREEN LEAVE on the dash which reduces A/C output, expands shift points of transmission, and deadings the gas pedal. The VCM with the SVCM does not allow Variable Cylinders Management to operate no matter what mode.
On another note have you been treating your GDI carbon buildup with CRC? Are these engines getting carboned up? I cannot find much on RU-vid or anywhere. Would appreciate any pointers. Thanks. Great review.
I just hate how vcm messes with the cruise control. On incline, the speed drops too far before cylinders activate, then vehicle floors itself past chosen speed... then coasts a moment before applying fuel again. Very annoying.
I disabled my Odyssey and I noticed no difference in mileage. Even if I got 5 mpg less it is still worth it, versus fouled plugs, and burning oil. worn out motor mounts, and several other problems.
I've been experiencing some mild vibration at 70MPH (my normal cruising speed) which I thought might be due to the tires. They're great tires (Michelin Defender), and had the balances checked. Everything is OK, but the vibration has continued, so I wonder if maybe it's due to this VCM you're describing? I didn't even know VCM existed!
All eco mode button does is lower a/c output, deaden pedals, and expands transmission shifts. VCM runs when 43 variables are met. One being engine temp.
2019 Pilot 6AT , only thing that changed was the temperature gauge, it stays at 165 but when I gets over 105 outside it goes back to normal No issues so far, I did notice the difference after installation, having a 6 cylinders available all the time makes the driving experience much better. I’m probably getting 1 less mpg in the city but I usually get 20mpg , haven’t done highway miles yet only city drive
Eco mode lowers a/c output so your trucks going to take a hell of a long time to cool down. Also expands the shift pattern and softens the response of the gas pedal.
I just installed this and got like 15 error messages. Power steering. Lane departure. ACC. So on. Went for about a 5 mile drive and essentially nothing with a sensor works. Any idea how long it takes for the issues to go away?
@CampingRandy so interesting thing. I just went for a drive. All was well. Pulled in the driveway and all the warning lights/messages popped up again and my ridgeline shut off. Started flashing "keyless start not responding " and would not start doors wouldn't lock. I unhooked the battery for 5 minutes. Hooked it back up. Same thing. I pulled the vcm mod off and she fired right up.
My '18 Ridgeline RTLE had the RPM flutter and hesitation maintaining speeds with cruise control set on highway and going up even the slightest of inclines. Thinking it was burnt ATF, I performed the recommended 3X drain & fill of the tranny fluid @ 30k miles which did make the RPM flutter go away but it was still having vibration mimicking the feel of a tire out of balance cruising @ 45-70 mph and a severe power hesitation/lag which felt like the transmission was slipping. For example, if CC was set to 70MPH and an incline would slow the truck down, it would drop to about 67 mph before it would start to try to accel back to 70. The RPMs would jump to about 5000 before the vehicle would even begin accelerating. It was driving me completely crazy but I lived with it until the problem seemed to be getting worse approaching 40k miles. BTW, I never tow anything, nor am I what even a grandma would consider, hard on the throttle. So, I took it to the Honda dealer thinking my tranny was going bad. They did a torque converter snapshot and said that I needed a transmission drain & fill (I didn't tell them I had already performed the procedure myself 6 months ago @30k) and they quoted me $450 ($150 each X3). After telling them to go pound sand, I debated trading the truck in on a Taco (which I really didn't want to do as I loved my Ridge and its previous ride quality over all else) I did some research on the Ridgeline owner's forum and found that the true cause of my problem was likely VCM engagement/disengagement. I found a link to Randy's store and thought 'what the hell, I'll spend the $100 and see if it fixes my problem. If not, I am getting rid of this truck.' Well, my S-VCM controller came today and took about 5 minutes to install. I took it out for a ride on the highway and around town and HOLY SH!T what a difference. No more power hesitation, no problem maintaining cruise speed, it is riding so smooth again. I drove the truck about 40 miles and never once experienced power lag or the vibrations. As for possible MPG loss, I will gladly give up 1-2 MPGs to have the ride quality and power, & if the rumors about VCM causing piston rings, plugs, and engine mount failures are true, the extra cost of the fuel will be more than made up for by this device disabling it. Thank you, Randy for allowing me to keep my truck and love it once again.
3x drain and fill 2019 Ridgeline rtle with tiny tranny cooler. Burnt fluid at 35k. Valvoline Max life. Much smoother but got the svcm so the truck lasts longer
Eco mode does not shutdown the cylinders. All the ECO light does is advise YOU that you are driving efficiently. If there is a button, press the button to off. In older Hondas ECON light on the dash is a happy light, the Econ BUTTON , deadens the pedal, extends the shift patterns in transmission, and lowers A/C output. Let me know if you have further questions. Thanks for watching.
@@CampingRandy on the 2017 odyssey no way to shut it off. And what I read online but it could be false like most stuff online they said it deactivated cylinders. I have felt the stutter there's no shutoff button until 2018. Here's what I found. Does 2017 Odyssey have VCM? All trims use a 248-hp 3.5-liter V6 engine that features Honda's variable cylinder management system (VCM), which allows the V6 engine to switch among three, four, and six cylinders to increase fuel efficiency.
I think we are loosing context in text. 1. Your vehicle has VCM 2. The Econ light or button does NOT shut cylinders down. 3. There needs to have 43 variables met to shut cylinders off 4. The SMART VCM Module de-activates your VCM FUNCTION - installed all cylinders will ALWAYS operate.
Install was a breeze, I feel like it’s working but is there any way to tell for sure it’s working? Just want to make sure the VCM is definitely not turning on. VCM is a terrible idea and after seeing the issues Chevy had with it in Silverado I want no part of it! Gas is cheap compared to an engine or transmission!
Hi, I am hoping this will eliminate the buzzing noise my 2017 Ridgeline randomly makes at 1800-1900 Rpm. One question, is that going to affect the Eco function too?
All the ECON button does is dreading the gas pedal, expand the shift range of the transmission, and lower a/c output; which sucks on HOT DAYS. DO NOT USE when you first get in you truck on hot days. The S-VCM disables the truck running on three cylinders. The truck will run on all six cylinders all the time. Thanks for watching!
Installed s-vcm on 2022 Honda Pilot and get awd warning emissions and engine warning disconnected battery and waited 30 minutes before reconnecting battery and warnings go away for about 50 miles and come back how do I fix it short of removing device?
Doesn't work correctly. I installed one and just finished a 3,400 mile trip. My VCM kept coming on after a few hours of my initial trip driving, and then virtually the whole trip except when the engine is warming up. Seems to only work on short, less then 10-20 mile trips only. I have no idea what the engine temp is since the VCMTUNER controls the temp gauge sender voltage. The temp gauge never moves after it warms up and no longer reads what the actual temp is. It could be running hot and I would never know it, so beware. I think there is more to disabling the VCM than just by the gauge temp sensor.
Got one for my 2012 Honda Crosstour V6 - installed per the instructions - no error codes and worked like a charm for a bit - then the ECO light comes on again just like it normally did. I contacted the supplier and they sent me a new one but same result - so not sure why it does not work on this car. Have taken it off as it really doesn't do anything.
aquí está el enlace del sitio web a la tienda ridgeline. Gracias por ver. disfruta de las aventuras. ridgelinestore.com/S-VCM-Controller-VCM-Disabler-p369729001
