Hey I just learned something... Again... You have Help Many Old bikes get back in the Wind... Thanks for sharing your wisdom and knowledge.... thank you
Mike. Loving your videos. What I would like to see are videos on how YOU perform a full service on a shovel, evo, pan, knuckle, etc. I think it would be of interest to many. Thanks again for your good efforts here. It's in the wind... Spanky
Hi Mike, Great method to make this job easier. Here is a somewhat related question. I started restoring a ‘69FLH 3yrs. ago and sandblasted and powder coated the frame and installed new bearings and seals in the swingarm and reinstalled swingarm to the frame. The bike sat till this year. Divorce will do that…lol. It is almost done now, but I missed a step. I now see that Harley recommends that you preload the swingarm pivot bolt by using a set of scales placed under the rear axle bolt in place in the swingarm and set preload for about 1-2lbs. Would I be safe to simply at this point just back off any torque I put on the swingarm pivot bolt and then re-tighten till the head of the bolt mates (comes into contact) with the frame and then tighten an additional ¼ turn or so? I have never done this before, but I cannot imagine anyone actually doing as the manual states about the scales. Your thoughts? Thanks.
Hate to admit it, by I've always checked it by feel. I've always torqued the pivot bolt to 45lbs. Now you have me wondering. I've checked them for "shake" by feel. I've checked them for movement side to side. I've always put new bearings and races in them with new spacers and seals. I've had no problems there. Now, I'm going to do some research.
Hi Mike, Thank you for your reply. I think little torque is required as long as it passes the shake test. The washer on the pivot bolt is tabbed so you can ensure the bolt does not back out. Please let me know if you find out something contrary. By the way, I found out the missing piece to the puzzle with regards to the thrust washer for the starter housing; looks like OEM housings were machined to accept the brass TW and then you could 'stake' them; however, my experience with aftermarket housings exposed that they are not machined for the TW. What they do is have a thicker casting which compensates for the thickness of the brass TW, so no TW required.
Thank you. I agree with all of it. Just one thing: I don't thoroughly test a locktab. To me, it's a good thing, but not enough. Having a swingarm pivot bolt come out is no party. I had one that was sticking out several inches. If my swingarm passes all tests after I've torqued it to about 45lbs and the locktab is set, we're good to go.
Mike, thanks for your reply. I'm going to take your advise and torque to 45lbs. and do the shake test...if all seems good then set the tabbed washer. Hope you're finding time to get some riding in!
No. You can remove the shock absorber and (back when they were available) you could replace the shock itself, but the shock absorber unit itself, is sealed.
What grade of oil do you use in your panhead? Also do you use non ethanol gas?One more ? I have a manuel point set up ,What is your preferred points? Outstanding videos Thanks for passing on your knowledge.
20/50. Just a personal preferance. It circulates better when starting up. Finding good points is difficult. They seem to be inconsistent today. You'll have to try different brands until you find what you like. I use use the best and highest octane gas I can find. Formulas seem to vary from area to area. I'm sorry to be so "non-committal."
Thanks Mike wished Id had teachers like you while in school would have gotten better grades maybe graduated Doing good ,Retired an have a 61 Pan also a dyna 70+ Thanks again@@pacificmike9501
i would have liked to have seen you take the shock out completely as i want to put new shocks on my old chrome springs ...do you have to press the bottom off too before the shock will come out completely?
You make Great informative videos sir! But i have a curiosity and I can't find the answer doing searches so maybe you can help. I've owned a 1984 Softy since it was new and I've never changed the shocks. As I'm sure you know they aren't adjustable but my belt is. My question, have you ever disassembled a first or second year Softy shock? I'd like to know what the innards look like. I believe they are different from the later style shock. Thanks!
I don't remember taking a very early Softail shock apart. I've replaced a bunch with better shocks. I remember on the 84, removing the right shock to install the missing fifth bolt in the bottom of the trans. You might want to check for that if yours is a four speed.
I was coming on here to ask you to make a video of taking shocks apart. And I found this, lol. I will have to got the clutch disk, all thread route and it dont sound like fun.
It's a large washer with a "bridge" welded to it. My friend, Stevie made it for me. He has since passed. I miss him and treasure all the things he made for me. This one is an easy one to fabricate. In the old days, we used two old retired clutch discs and three lengths of "all thread."
