Disaster Bathroom Repair and Rebuild - Part One : E128 / BC Renovation Magazine 

@lorineidtinytoadplot744, thanks. 🙂

Stewart, thanks! Happy New Year to you. 🙂

Pappyville, thank you. 🙂

Hi, Jeff. Thanks. 🙂

I agree....

J B, thanks! 🙂 Appreciate you taking the time to watch and comment.

Hi, Jenny. Thanks. 🙂

Hi, Suzanne. Thank you for watching and commenting. I'm glad you find the videos helpful. 🙂

Hi, Thomas. I am doing two bathrooms in this project. This one is getting a tub/shower combination. In the next bathroom I am removing the old tub/shower combination and replacing with a walk-in shower only, no tub. I am recording that bathroom as well, so you will see how that goes. As far as costs, I don't think there is much difference the way I do it.

Hi, Mark. Thanks! 🙂 Putting the plumbing in the wall is nice on inside walls. Sometimes, on outside walls, you have to come up out of the floor, to protect the pipes from freezing. You'll see that in the videos for the next bathroom. I have plumbing in two exterior walls in that bathroom, which I am working in now.

Hi, Becki. Thank you. The bathtub came from my local Home Depot. I had to change tubs this time from what I usually use. I have been using MAXX Avenue Model for past projects. No longer available to me here in Canada. This time I went with a Mirolin Sydney Model. About $500 Canadian ($350 USD). I chose it because I like a deep tub with armrests for soaking in. It is a cheap tub but very well made (acrylic). www.homedepot.ca/product/mirolin-sydney-5-ft-acrylic-alcove-non-whirlpool-rectangular-right-hand-drain-bathtub-in-white/1000479105?eid=ds_ads_van_27917_Google%20Shopping%20Campaign&gclid=CjwKCAiAzKqdBhAnEiwAePEjkjjlfVwbuhMVQIAOvDgPmj8thqHuTbD39ZYwUy_UedvC7XO-3quIEBoCPC8QAvD_BwE Mirolin is a Canadian company that makes some pretty good stuff at good pricing. mirolin.com/ You may not find Mirolin at Home Depot where you are, but someone else might bring it in from Canada. I'll try to work in some more time-lapse sequences in future videos.

@@BCRenovationMagazine Thanks Kent! 🖤

@@beckiblack4651 , you're welcome. 🙂🙂

Thomas, I am using PEX piping for the new piping. PEX B to be specific. I will show you how to make the connections when I get into the next bathroom.

Hi, Chris. Asbestos in ceiling texture was banned in the 1970's. This home was built in 1984, so we would not expect to find asbestos. That being said, whenever I work in these older homes I treat them as if there is contaminants present and take precautions accordingly.

Hi, Nick. Tiling is one of those subjects that people have differing opinions about. I have my way that I have used for years and years with good success. I have taken apart other people's tile jobs in renovations and have seen how those have, or have not, stood up over time. I have done a lot of tile floors. What has worked for me is putting 1/4" underlayment (plywood) over typically 5/8" subfloors on joists @ 16" O.C. My subfloors have been T&G plywood or T&G OSB (like the TruFloor product I used here). I go with what is available and priced best at the time. I glue and screw my subfloors to the joists. Gluing stiffens the floor by 25%. In these mobile homes we mostly have particle board floors that have been screwed and glued to the joists. These floors are pretty stiff. Contrary to what a lot of people think, these particle board floors are not necessarily crap. This particle board is a specially engineered product specific for subfloors. It is not the same low grade, low density "K-3" type of particle board you get at the building center. If you are working on floors in a new home with an engineered flooring system for joists that are 19.2" O.C. (metric! 🙂) then things change a little bit. On those I would install blocking between the joists under the subfloor to stiffen the subfloor under tile. The SurePly underlayment I use is a premium product rated for use under ceramic tile, meeting ASTM standards of the Tile Council of North America. I have several tile floors out there on SurePly and have had no callbacks. Floor tiles have to be bedded in thinset mortar, not mastic, which is a mistake that some people make, and grouted with a sanded grout. Something that I don't like about using cement board on floors is the thickness of it. When you put tile on top it gets pretty thick, making the transitions to adjoining floors difficult to deal with. I like floors to be fairly even from room to room without clunky transition strips. The copper compression rings are all that I have ever used in my PEX installations. In my building jurisdiction I can do my own plumbing on my own projects that I own but have to use a licensed plumber on projects I do for other people. In all of the installations that I or my plumbers have done over the years it has always has been using PEX B piping, brass fitting and copper crimp rings. This has served us well. I like the system. That is not to say that other ways aren't as good, or better, but we are kind of stuck in our ways. 😉 It's also the system that we have tools for, and quality PEX tools aren't cheap.

@@BCRenovationMagazine thats fair to say because crimp tools are quite expensive. Thank you for you reply...i think im going to use the 1/4 underlayment when i get ready to tile...i put 3/4 solid hardwood in my mobile home

@@nicksinclair2407 , real hardwood... very nice! 🙂👍 I usually use a 12mm (1/2") thick premium laminate planking in these mobile home projects that I do, except in the wet areas. Ceramic floor tiles on top of 1/4" underlayment comes out just about even with the laminate floors.

Nick, here's a link to the Patriot Timber SurePly product: www.patriottimber.com/sureply-underlayment/ Something that I do when installing it is I screw it down to the subfloor instead of stapling it.

Hi, Linda. Thanks for commenting. 🙂 This one is going to be a two part video. Voice over is something that I would like to try.

Hi, Alma. Thanks. 🙂