Donyboy you cover everything! I just made a comment last night on how thorough and accurate your videos are and here's another example of fine work! I just bought a used MTD Snowflite w/a 11hp Tecumseh that been sitting for a few years and need a good refurb. Every concern I've had has been answered in your videos! Again thanks for your great videos and stellar work!
I have a 1993 MTD snowblower Tecumseh 10 hp snow king, 23 yers old machine running like new. I live in the Montreal area with lot of snow every year. The thing is a horse! I keep it in a heated garage, and I do all the maintenance myself. I use regular gas, 10w30 Castrol regular oil which I change once a year. Last year before winter I changed for the first time the 2 belts and the spark plug which still looked to be ok never had to clean the carburetor ease starting, fuel lines original, still soft with no visible cracks and just last year I changed the auger main bearing. The drive is very good not slipping. My Tecumseh snow king motor is
I find these videos informational and helpful. You put these videos together nicely. I am new to RU-vid and enjoy your videos. Someone suggested you to me, I like what your doing. Would like to see you do some stuff on electrical, switches, electrical currant and diagnoses on lawntractors. Haven't seen anything electrical. Will keep looking. Keep up the good work, Rich
@th19940305 i got the guy from getbentmetal to weld it because he can weld aluminum, maybe i should make a quick vid to show it, i also bought a new rod
So what are you going to do? JB weld it or they have some alumi weld basically a welding rod that has a low melting point that you can weld only MAP gas torch. That would be better than JBweld. Just a thought and my .02
I have used a product called technoweld for repairing crank cases all you use is a mapp gas torch. there are a number of videos on youtube explaining how to do this and its stronger than the alluminium its self.
Great video, thx! What amazes me, is how easy it is for this to occur. I recently removed my carb on my 10hp Tecumseh and rebuilt it, then while getting it back in, had difficulty reattaching the rods coming from the governor. So I removed the screw holding the governor arm, reattached the rods to the carb, then reattached the governor arm. When I started the engine, it raced and the throttle had no effect. So I shut it down. I thought something was wrong with the throttle, but finally realized I had not reattached the governor arm correctly. So watched some videos on how to do that. Reset the governor arm, but the throttle lever still had no effect. There seemed to be a need for something to push back against the throttle when the throttle lever was pushed down. I was stumped. Is the governor supposed to provide the push back on the throttle? Tried to start it one more time to see if maybe the engine had to be running in order for this to occur. IT only ran for maybe 15 seconds then seized up. Now it will not turn over at all, either starter motor or pull rope. So I guess an engine tear down is in order.
excellent video. weird that some folks don't like these engines, I have several an they really work hard. I have never had a problem with them. Generally when something goes wrong it;s user error and even then, easily corrected. I have some of these that are as old as I am! still awesome. LOL
For all the mechanics out there with lots of historical knowledge, is there a defect with the larger Tecumseh engines? I have a like new Craftsman snowblower with a locked up 9hp Tecumseh engine. I see an abundance of videos featuring these engines with a destroyed block from a broken rod. Just curious as I am a retired shade tree guy. I finished swapping the engine with a new Briggs 14.5 ft lbs. of torque snow engine. If only we had snow here in Denver.......
I would mig weld the block and reuse it for myself . I would even JB weld it as that has held up on a lot of my repairs . If you do not at least you will have a lot of great parts . I wander if that carb would fit on my 10hp 1995 MTD snow blower .
I have a 9 year old snow blower with a 10hp Tecumseh engine that still runs fine I would like to replace the rod now before it does blowup. Are there any aftermarket rods available for a 10hp Tecumseh that are stronger? To me it makes no sense to replace the rod with the same new junk rod manufactured by Tecumseh.
Hello how do you remove a camshaft from a dual shaft snowblower engine. The camshaft is attached to a pulley in the sump cover. How do you remove the camshaft from the sump cover.
You said earlier that you should never run the engine at full speed with no load on it. I never knew that was an issue. I thought an engine had a safe rev range, where it didn't cause any damage. So whether it's idling or at WOT, all it's doing is consuming gas. By overrevving, that sounds to me like running an engine at a speed faster than it was designed for.
The reason why excessive RPM is so destructive to these engines is they don't have pressurized lubrication. Instead they have a dipper that splashes oil to the connecting rod and cylinder attached to the bottom of the connecting rod. That only works well up to a certain RPM after that it can't keep up and the engine fails.
@@1575murray Thanks, I've looked at most Tecumseh repair and operators manuals. I just don't see where they mention an actual # for the RPM'S. They speak about speed and not to over run an engine but no commitment to an actual #. If you see one please post it. Again, Thanks. HMSK80.
@56CrownVick i think the engine on your blower is the same or very similar to the tecumseh star used by kart racers so i think someone makes a billet rod for it, not 100% sure though so do some research before you buy a new rod
Hi donyboy73. Isn't it amazing how the old Briggs engines from 60's and 70's could take anything? High reving, hitting stuff with a blade,... and they just keep working like nothing ever happened. (Knock on wood)
Any idea if there's a trick to removing the camshaft? I have the exact same engine, and similar age, and it won't come out. It looks like you edited the video while trying it to get it out.
@Pucamann Agreed. That's how the market works unfortunately. But, remember that it's the same system that allows us to buy these machines cheaply, thx to mass production. Having said that, it's still wasteful and I don't like it. Especially with this engine, heck even the oil looks clean and all parts looks brand new! If it was my own engine I would try to fix it.
I believe you could get that welded for pretty cheap money and it's a very effective fix. afaik your friend has a TIG, I'd contact him, if this engine stays at your garage. in the end, it sure cannot get worse than this
Yeah ! Warranty claims aren't very nice to the service agent when they have to wear the cost of at least the labour. If they do a JB weld bodge job for a customer & it leaks then they are up for the cost of parts as well. Though Brownie would keep swindling customers with their see ya next time mates rates approach.
No Offence, But what is it with most small engine guys using strictly hand tools? one would think a cordless impact would be a masive timesaver and aid in productivity.
If you have done any engine work at all, you would know that over tightening or stipping bolts or nuts is an avoidable headache. Engine repair is not a race, and anytime i've tried to cut corners or save time, it's cost me money and time in the end.
Sadly, B&S has their own problems. Faulty valve guides in their OHV Intec engines. Engine gets too hot, or sometimes for no reason at all, and the valve guide thimbles push out of the heads and impeded the valve spring action, which causes the push rods to bend, and there you go, time for a new head at $150 each.
typical tecumseh, most useless motor ever build. I work at an outdoor power equipment joint and these things blow up more often than a briggs, plus their parts are so expensive
