DIY - 2012 Range Rover Sport SDV6: Full service (air, cabin, oil filters and oil) 

You're very welcome, I'm glad you found my video helpful!

Thank you! I aim to make these videos as detailed as possible in the hopes of helping beginner DYI mechanics.

It's not the lubricity that's the issue, but the behavior of the oil when under heavy stress and temperature (the "high-temperature-high-shear" or HTHS value). Lower HTHS makes the oil film less resistant, especially in the more critical areas like crankshaft and piston bearings or the camshaft lobes (the latter being the most demanding point for the engine oil). C1 requires a HTHS value of at least 2.9 mPa * s, C5 is even lower and a minimum of 2.6, whereas the C3 you mentioned is at least 3.5. I agree that the fuel economy gained from a lower HTHS is negligible; this is the reason why I used a C2 oil on the Kia Sportage only once and then permanently switched to a C3 as well. Having said the C specifications also impact the amount of sulphated ash which clogs the DPF. Here, the C1 oils have the lowest value at around 0.5% - 0.6%, whereas C5 is higher at 0.7% - 0.8% and C3 can go over 1%. In the case of our Range Rover, which has a Ford DPF, using a C1 oil is a better choice than a C3 from this perspective. From a personal perspective, I think a 3500-mile interval for changing the oil is a bit too soon unless the car is driven only in a congested city or constantly under heavy loads. Otherwise, I'm sticking to a 5000 - 6000 mile interval for all our cars since they all see a mixed driving environment and no heavy loads.

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Many thanks!

You're welcome! I hope my videos will help you keep your own Range Rover in good shape :)

You're welcome!

The notorious "Restricted performance" warning can have a large variety of reasons. Did you have any overheating issues with the engine? Maybe the coolant temperature sensor is bad, it which case the car "thinks" you're overheating and restricts performance to reduce heat generation... In any case, the first thing to do is always to use an OBD2 scanner and check the ECU error codes. That should point you in the right direction.

Hi! I got the technical documents from forums.lr4x4.com/topic/102710-workshop-manuals-for-l322320494, which takes you to www.mediafire.com/folder/bmioajx5v76k7/RR. You should find all documents there.

@@TheMissingBolt Thank you very much, Iam going to start the service of my RRS, it is a second hand from 2013 sdv6 of the last production month before the version 2! I love it.

@@comedefleurieu315 Yes, I really like mine as well, I specifically wanted the SDV6 with the 8-speed gearbox. I think these are the best of the first generation Sports.

Indeed, for 2012 there's no oil stick, you have to check the oil level through the car's computer. You can see this at 34:25.

@@TheMissingBolt it is only visible through the menu

@@pierluigicicinelli3361 Yes, only through the menu.

@@TheMissingBolt many thanks sir

From what I read online, it is possible. There are several RU-vid videos available which show the procedure. Though I have only ever used the OBD2 tool for this, so can't confirm.

​@@TheMissingBolt I found a video on YT showing the procedure for deleting the oil inspection. So it's possibile :)

I already did that in the summer of 2020 - full flush through the transmission's oil cooler lines, plus new filter. The next service is due in about 30,000 km and I'll do that with multiple drains and fills. Hopefully I'll manage to make a video with that as well.

@@TheMissingBolt cool. Did you use the oil zf kit or the britpat conversion kit because they say that it is not possible to remove the black box with the filter because there is not enough room? Did you buy machine to flush the whole system because indeed they say without flushing only 40% of the oil volume fall...?

@@comedefleurieu315 I used original the original ZF kit, with the plastic filter and original ZF Lifeguard8 oil. It is possible to remove the filter, though it is indeed a bit difficult and you have to remove the large steel cross-member under the gearbox first. I didn't buy a machine to flush, I went to a garage specialized in servicing automatic gearboxes.