Thank you! Indeed, a drain plug would have been very useful, no idea why they didn't design one in the first place.

Multumesc mult! 🙂

Hi! Indeed, the plugs are due at 60K km as per the manual. Since we haven't even reached 20K yet, I haven't touched the plugs. In any case, I think this needs to be done at the dealer in order to maintain the warranty on the car.

I don't know for sure, but it should be the same reservoir, just like it is for our Corsa. But it's very easy to do a visual check - in the area where the brake fluid reservoir is (rear-right from the engine itself), if you see only one reservoir then that's used for both clutch and brakes. On the other hand, if there are 2 reservoirs (unlikely), then one is for the clutch and the other is for the brakes.

@@TheMissingBolt Many thanks for the reply.

You can check with a multi-meter if there's any voltage on those slots, but usually if there's no fuse connected to them from the factory, then those slots are not powered at all so they won't be of any use.

Hello! What you're describing sounds suggests potential problems inside the gearbox itself. But I would first start with changing the oil in the gearbox, if you haven't already done so. The 5-speed manual in the Astra F should take 1.8L of 80W GL-4 oil, but check your owner's manual to be sure. I was getting some harsh shifting in our Opel in the winter and changing the oil definitely helped.

Voir à 13:55. J'ai utilisé un peu plus de 1,7 litre d'huile, exactement comme spécifié dans le manuel.

Thanks! I did replace all 8 when I made the video.

@@TheMissingBolt nice

Depending on the country you're based in, in theory it may or may not. But if you're using only genuine parts and work carefully (not overtightening the filter or the drain bolt etc.), a dealership won't be able to identify that an additional oil and filter change has been performed at all 😉

@@TheMissingBolt that’s the idea that i was thinking after i sent you the above msg😀 greetings from Romania🍺

@@gabs2964 Salutare! 😁 Da, in Romania sigur ar putea comenta daca iti faci un schimb de ulei singur, asa ca cel mai bine este ca ei sa nu stie 😁

@@TheMissingBolt în totalitate de acord cu tine👌imi poti spune de unde ai gasit cheia pt filtru de ulei? Eu tocmai ce am plasat comanda de CX-30 modelul 2025 cu ETA prin nov-dec 2024, motor 2.5AT MH 140cp. Deci, asteptare lunga😀

@@gabs2964 Cheia e similara cu Yato YT-08235 (diametrul filtrului parca e in jur de 70 de mm). N-am mai intalnit CX-30 cu motorizare de 2.5 si 140 de cai, n-o gasesc in configuratorul oficial. Stiu ca 2.5 a fost pus pe CX-5 si pe CX-30 doar in SUA, dar are aproape 190 de cai. E vreo versiune noua, care n-a fost anuntata inca?

Hello! Based on the VIN number for my particular Corsa and the A14XER engine, the water pump genuine GM part number is 95524738.

As long as you put the plug back in and tighten it until it's snug (I don't have a torque value for that particular drain plug), there shouldn't be any issues. If the plug has a crush washer, turn the washer around before reusing it (so that the cooler-facing side now sits against the drain bolt) and after driving the car for a while, check for any leaks.

@@TheMissingBolt Thanks for your advice, I travelled 30 miles back home now lights on dash and no signs of any leaks 👍🏼

@@TheMissingBolt Scroll to 15:26 on your guide - the hex part where the drain plug screws into sitting in the sump, mine had a little movement when the bolt was tight is that normal?

@@liams2641 From what I see, that hex part is either welded or bolted to the oil pan. If it wobbles in that it's not tight against the pan, I'd expect a large oil leak to happen... If it doesn't leak it's best to keep an eye on it and ask a technician about it the next time you take your car in for a servicing at the dealer.

If it's just a little damp and you don't (yet) see a puddle of oil underneath your transmission in the morning then you can still drive with it as-is for a while - the amount of oil you're losing just from that dampness is very small. However, you should definitely monitor it periodically to see if the seal wear increases and more oil starts to come out - if you start to see the transmission drip consistently, then it's time to replace the seals (I'd recommend both of them, since they're of the same age and mileage). I'll be doing a video on this particular topic in the near future hopefully.

@@TheMissingBolt Thanks

Yes, definitely. Manuals are less susceptible to damage from old oil than automatics, so you should be fine.

This method only works on engines where the cooling system uses a reservoir with 2 hoses, one constantly pushing coolant in and one constantly pulling coolant out - this applies to many of the European-brand cars. On the other hand, most Asian-brand cars use a system where the pressure is maintained at the radiator and the reservoir has only one hose connected to it, which pushes or pulls fluid by very small amounts as the pressure in the system rises or falls. The method in this video only applies to the first category; for the second category your only choice is to do repeated drains and fills with distilled-water only, followed by 1 - 2 drains and fills with concentrated coolant (see my Kia video, ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-O4dCHMNKecY.html, for more details). Check your coolant reservoir and depending on the number of hoses connected to it, you should use one method or the other.

@@TheMissingBolt im doing this on 1.2 2014 Vauxhall Corsa is there any risk if it does happen to be the Asian system?

@@lmr9512 For the Corsa the same procedure should work. For the Asian system it'll simply not work, since you don't have a constant flow of coolant going into and out of the coolant reservoir.

@@TheMissingBolt thank u

Thank you! 🙂

Glad to hear that! Good luck on the work!

@@TheMissingBolt Thanks. Where can I find/buy that workshop manual?

@@robl6314 You can download it from www.mediafire.com/folder/bmioajx5v76k7/RR. You'll find a PDF for the 2006 RRS / D3 and the 2013 RRS / D4 archive.

Yes, fingers crossed! In my case, the right one required more effort to remove than the left one but ultimately both came out normally. Usually if the bolt is stuck, it's not stuck on the nut threads but on the inside of the bushing, so the risk of damaging the sub-frame is small. II suggest using plenty of penetrating oil for a few hours before attempting to remove the bolt.

Thank you very much!😀

In the video where I change the rear discs (ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-PR9EzwLSDAA.html) I explain the procedure. Another good video with the detailed adjustment steps is ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-50uj0UDV8Nc.html. Lastly, I strongly recommend you download Bodsy's Brake Bible v1.6, as it explains the procedure very well.

What information do you need exactly?

Thank you very much! Glad you liked the video!

Thanks! 😊

The clutch circuit is completely separate from the engine. Maybe check to see if there are any leaks on the clutch pipe and hose...or maybe one of the clutch cylinders has just failed and the timing is simply a coincidence. If the car cannot move, best get a mobile mechanic to come and diagnose the issue.

Здравейте. Да, все още имаме колата. Ще сменям съединителя и после искаме да го продадем.

Glad I could help!

Indeed, the radio is designed to take up to 15 Amps and now I've reduced it to 10 Amps, simply because I couldn't source 2 fuses of 12 - 13 Amps for the Audio and only 2 - 3 Amps for the camera. Which is why I tested the Audio on full volume, together with video, to see if it holds with the lower 10 Amp limit (and it does just fine). Since the camera has its own dedicated fuse, in case of failure the 5 Amp fuse should cut first and only disable the camera... but in the worst case, the setup ensures that no more than 15 Amps are ever drawn on the combined circuit from the battery (as I've explained in another comment, we have to maintain a total of 15 Amps to protect the wire that comes from the battery and into the fuse box fort that particular circuit).

@TheMissingBolt yeah in his video if the load was greater than 10amps it would blow, but according to him no it wouldn't because the 10amp fuse would magically fuse(no pun) together with the 5amp fuse to create a single 15amp. Is this some sort of terminator t1000 liquid metal scenario :)

@@Emexrulsier Nope, it's simply the application of Kirchoff's 1st law: if both the 10A and 5A wires from the fuse towards the camera and Audio module draw full power, then the current from the battery to the fuse box for that circuit will carry 15A, which is its factory design limit.

The reservoir should hold about 0.5 - 0.7 liters of coolant. Your solution should definitely work, but keep in mind that the coolant in the reservoir will mix with the rest of the system over many days of driving (i.e. multiple cycles of engine on - engine off, in order to facilitate coolant warming and cooling). Until the mix becomes homogenous, you shouldn't do another drain and fill of the reservoir, since the antifreeze percentage in the reservoir will still be different from that in the rest of the system (so your measurements will be incorrect). However, also keep in mind that it's not only important to keep the antifreeze percentage at about 50 %, but also to still have corrosion additives in the antifreeze. That's why I'd rather recommend a complete coolant change if you haven't already done it.

@@TheMissingBolt thanks for explanation. I had followed your stepd to the letters. I did 7 drains only because the last drain pretty much very clear. After 2 days, i checked with antifreeze gauge and it shows only -29degC about 40% antifreeze. Probably due to the front of my car is tilted during the drain & fill so the drain and fill is not thorough im not sure. Since filling from reservoir isnt good idea, now im thinking to just siphon out some coolant from radiator cap and fill with antifreeze to bring it up to 50%. Because re-opening the underbody cover is just a hassle. What do you think?

@@gulagulasusu Yes, siphoning water from the radiator directly should only require a single fill operation. You can check out the calculations from 28:50 to figure out how much coolant you actually need to drain and replace with 100 % antifreeze in order to get to the 50-50 concentration.

@@TheMissingBolt thanks a bunch mate!

You could, but to get the same percentage of old fluid out would cost you much more... see the explanation starting at 48:59. What you're referring to are the common flush machines, with their upsides and downsides (as I explained in the video), but as long as you don't drain too much through the hose in one go (so that the pump never runs dry), it's safe to also do it as described in the video.

I'm very glad to hear that my video helped you! I remember I struggled a little with that spring as well!

Thank you very much! I'm glad you enjoyed the video!

Hi! Honestly, I don't know, but what I did was simply to get underneath the car, take photos of the original filter and then order an identical one. Same for the drain bolt washer. You can get the parts from Radacini Motors in Bucuresti, as they also have an online parts website (see piese.radacini.ro/mazda-3290/filtru-de-ulei-pentru-modelele-mazda-cu-sistem-hybrid.html, for example).

I'm very glad you enjoyed it!

Salut! Poti folosi adresa de e-mail asociata contului meu.

@@TheMissingBolt din păcate nu este vizibilă adresa de email

@@reddog7852 Mail-ul este public, accesibil atunci cand intri pe detaliile canalului ("More about this channel"), dupa ce te-ai logat cu propriul cont.

Je suis très heureux que vous ayez aimé la vidéo ! Des commentaires comme le vôtre me motivent à continuer de filmer !

The clutch sensor doesn't affect the force needed to disengage the clutch, it simply tells the car's ECU if the clutch is engaged or not. From what you're describing it's sounds like the clutch itself is wearing out. Since there's no leak or griding, I don't think the clutch cylinders are the problem. But it's best to take your car to a trusted mechanic and get another opinion.

When the AC turns on, its clutch engages and places further resistance on the belt. It's best to check with a local mechanic, but keep in mind that it's normal for an AC compressor that's engaged to make noise (up to a certain limit).

​​@@TheMissingBolthey thanks for the reply..the mechanic do it 2 times when got noice 2023 but same problem not fixed wasted 500€ i think 😢 still in problem... i changed my self belt but nothing happened same noice when i drive 2nd gear it's coming noice ...some times engine turn off when i trying to stop color light 🚨...but it's every problem coming only when I turn on AC 😢😢

Glad you liked the video! Best of luck with the work on your Sorento, the procedure should be similar.

Yes, they do differ, for whatever reason. The torques for the transfer case are given in www.kispmanual.com/transfer_fluid_repair_procedures-771.html, while those for the rear differential are given in www.kispmanual.com/rear_differential_carrier_repair_procedures-812.html. The washers differ as well, again I have no idea why they chose this.

Did you correctly perform the adjustment procedure on the shoes?

Given that the oil drain plug is at the back of the pan, it makes sense to have the front wheels lifted slightly higher than the back wheels. However, the difference in remaining oil between doing this and having the car lifted horizontally on a ramp is very small, so I'd say pick the option that's the most comfortable for you.

@@TheMissingBolt Thank you so much for your response. All the best

hi i am updating this i went shop and he controlled my number plate and he give me 75.85 its red one i think tomorrow i am trying to change it wish me luck 😮

You can use the level plug as a drain plug, which is an easier way to replace most of the oil. The red oil is on the old GM specification, 1940768. The one I've used in the video is on the latest one, 1940004. Both should serve you well if you replace the oil regularly (the red oil has a shorter lifespan).

That's somewhat similar to the coolant cleaning solution I've used in the flushing video. Though from my experience so far, I doubt these solution make any positive difference.

Bonjour! Je cherchais simplement un outil pour filtres de voiture pouvant être connecté à une clé 1/2. Un exemple serait www.amazon.com/Spurtar-Adjustable-60-80mm-Universal-Medium-sized/dp/B0CGWRQH2K?th=1.

It definitely gives you more room to work, but be careful to firmly secure your car on a jack-stand if you want to remove the wheel for this procedure.

I take it you haven't watched the first full minute of the video, right? 😁

@@TheMissingBolt Right. My bad. I'm not an English native speaker. But you must be that rude answering? It is called manners.

@@FURY1958 Maybe just a little mean, mea culpa for that 😀 But I do put in the effort to give the recommended parts changing intervals at the beginning of almost all videos and questions similar to yours tell me that few people actually take their time to watch even those first few minutes 😔

@@TheMissingBolt I appreciate your job for that. In fact I must say thank you, because I always did it by age, unknowing by kilometers, which you gave me the right answer finally. We're humans after all and it's good to accept we make mistakes sometimes, even me. So, no hard feelings by my part.

@@FURY1958 No hard feelings from my side either! 🙂 I'm glad you found the video useful! In the end, this is the reason I make them... So that hopefully others can better take care of their own cars and save money in the process.

I'm very happy to hear my video helped you! That's precisely why I make them!