If you design it with a de-Dion axle instead of a live rear axle, you can get a better weight distribution like a buggy and a faster and smoother suspension action. I'd recommend attaching it with a Satchel Link style 4 link that way you don't have to use a goofy panhard bar or a complex Watt's Link.
first of all I have to say that you have quite good knowledge.👍 It would be interesting to see how it would work on a trophy truck, but when I designed it, I basically wanted to make the most accurate copy of a real trophy truck. But despite of that, I don't know if this type of suspension would handle a long suspension travel like a Trophy truck actually have.
@@PatrikJKS It should theoretically handle long travel as well as independent would, which all depends on the CV shaft design and limits. Oh, and how long you make the arms of the Satchell Link (they should be just as long as your current solid axle's 4-link.)
this is one of the best 3d printed rc car ever. you are the true master of this, i really wonder how good it is with, 2200kv 4s, good tires, and some upgraded crash-sensitive parts to alloy, the other thing, how it would behave with some silicon diff oils, would it leak?
Thanks a lot :) With all these improvements it would be insane :D I also bought some proper rubber wheels, so I'm definitely going to try it out on the 3S and I'll hope that the big stones stay out of my way. I also thought about making some 7075 aluminum parts in the future :D These diffs don't have seals so I have to use seals and try that (some differential oils are already on their way to me, so I'm curious)
Hi! Congratulations on the design, amazing work! I would rather buy a wheel if possible. What are the wheel dimensions? Diameter, width, hexagon. Thanks
@@PatrikJKS I have to tighten the swing arm ball joint screws almost every time I take the buggy out and there's a couple or three screws I find loose on the Landy every now and then.
@@lasermike2147 Hmm, just a thought, try using blue glue for the threads or glue with an acetone base, such as Pattex special repair plastic, so that it is possible to unscrew it in the future.
@@funtimeandinbwen8376 Yes, it will work, but the problem is that the motor will heat up much more, and starting and braking will not be as effective as with the recommended motor, so keep that in mind.
I have printed most of the chassis but have stalled on the build as Aliexpress has been very slow to ship the motor. I have a problem with the HSP rear drive shaft and the join cup B. The end of the drive shaft has a flat on both sides and has a diameter of about 4.55 mm where the pinion goes while the drive cup has a bore of 5 mm. Did you cut off the end of the shaft? Mine sticks out about 9 mm from the shaft mount, it looks like yours is flush and maybe shiny where it was cut off. I did have to fit the dog bone shaft to the join cup with valve grinding compound. They wouldn't go together at all but now have a very nice fit. I will have to use moly grease due to the slightly rough finish but I'll pretend that the roughness will hold the grease in place. Also, I did use threaded inserts for the first 8 bolts before I realized the nuts will be hidden by a bottom panel. And getting them aligned at the bottom of a 40+ mm deep hole took patience even with a insert press. I may use them elsewhere but only for parts I think might need regular disassembly.
Yes, some things take longer to arrive. Yup exactly, the end of the shaft needs to be cut off - the complete instructions are shown in the assembly manual on page 2 and if not, download it again, because when I uploaded it the first time, that page was somehow missing, so I reuploaded it again later and now is complete. Wow, I can imagine how difficult it was to align the inserts with those long holes- Literally lot of patience :)
It depends on the actual price of the components, but something around €300 including screws, lights and non-printed rubber wheels (without battery and controller). You can see the complete list of non-printed material in the description.
@@PatrikJKS I'm pretty new to the world of 3d printing, is it possible to scale down parts? I'm thinking about building a 1/18 trophy truck and I'm looking for a body.
@@makestuffbetter19 Well, the answer is yes and no, I'll explain it to you - Imagine an ordinary cube, when you scale it up or down, the size changes in all three axes, which is fine for an ordinary cube, you only change the size of the cube, nothing more, but if the cube has some holes in the given dimensions and between the holes there will be some given dimensions and you would start scaling the cube downwards so the holes would be smaller and also the dimensions between the holes would be shorter because the scale is applied in all three XYZ axes so nothing would fit together and if the cube was hollow and had a wall thickness of, say, 2 mm, so the same problem would end up with a very narrow wall, which would be very fragile if you 3D printed it. So these are problems with the scaling of something like this. By the way, the body has a wall thickness of 3 mm in 1/9 scale and in 1/18 scale it would be something around 1.6 mm, which is not so bad, but then the holes would also be smaller and so on.
Hey mate, nice build. I am working at the prints but I have bigger problems with the "Steering knuckle LR" with TPU. Could you give me some informations how to print these? Thanks in advance and best regards.
HI, Thanks a lot. Yes, of course, what exactly happens when you 3d print those things, or if you have IG, you could send me a few photos so I can better identify what's going on.
@@PatrikJKS How do I have to print the knuckles? With support there is no chance to remove it after print and without support the result of the print isn't good. I have no idea how to solve it 😀
@@3Dmeetsme Interesting, definitely with the supports, I've never had a problem with the support not wanting to separate, I'd like to see your settings for the supports, maybe something won't be right there. Can you give me an email or something where I can send you a photo of my support settings? so you can try it.
It is there marked as a HSP rear shaft, but somehow assembly manual missing that one step with this 🙄 but I already fixed that bug so just redownload it.
While I really like this project, there are just some things on a trophy truck that need to be able to take a hit. Good Job though!! Make it more bulletproof!
Thank you, Well, those are the limitations of 3D printing. The parts that need to withstand impact would have to be made of metal to withstand some really hard hits.
@@PatrikJKS Are you able to print in abs? I changed up my hot end and started using some abs with a larger nozzle and as long as you have your printer dialed in you should be able to make some really strong stuff. You can try carbon fiber nylon as well. That carbon stuff is corrosive to nzzles so make sure you buy a few extras to have on hand.!
@@Epsonblade Yes, I have modified 3d printing machines, so it is not a problem for me to print ABS and I also sometimes print from carbon fiber nylon (by the way, I use a nozzle with a ruby tip), but personally I would prefer to use a very hard rubber such as 83D from innovatefil instead of carbon fiber nylon.. I'm not going to talk about why and how because it would be too long :) the last time I used a nozzle with a large diameter (1.2 mm) I was printing a vase from PP material :D
I want a durable rc on/off road truck with realistic handling like the traxxas UDR. Except not 1/7th scale. Prefer the 1/10th scale for less pricey parts. The UDR has patent (no slipper clutch) rear axle transmission and rear axle gearing. I want to buy the UDR rear axle and bearings/gears to use for my custom rc. Besides for the longer width of rear axle and matching front linkage arms to same width i can then make a 1/10th scale body. Its basically useing UDR drive train and making custom roll chassie. Not worried about body. Enduro ifs2 i prefer over the udr front suspension steering setup and do want a metal 1 pc ladder chassie. I can go the route of buying after market parts then collaborateing everythung into 1 rc. Only issue is haveing to make longer front upper/ lower suspension arms to match same width as prefered rear axle. Durability garunteed. I want to stay with nylon plastics fir Durability and keeping it light. Only parts that would constantly break would i uograde to alluminum.. the UDR is not a basher. Ha eing the option o my own prefered electronic is a bonus not stuck with stock electronics that in review sauds needs more power. At the price these rtr rc trucks retail at. The comoany should have this situated so its not an issue. I have all parts on list and figured out. Just need to figure out the correct frint diff gear ratio and length of front drive shaft. Takeing the best of sepwrate rc companys and makeing my own custom rc. Once i finally aquire all the parts im thinking. About makeing a video to showcase my awesome custom build and demonstrate driving on/off road. I want the ground clearance so im not bottoming out and stones scrtaching and eating away bottom of rc while keeping the realistic handling. Changeing up the rims and tires swaping out long for shorter shocks simply change iff road UDR style rc into an on road muscle car. Noticed theres various trailing arm lengths i want to experiment with. Find out which length performs and delivers that realistic driving and handling.
Hi I have just purchased this via crealitycloud and looking forward to building it 😊. I have seen mention of an assembly manual in the comments below but cannot find it or a link, it was not in the files I downloaded. Can you send me a link for the assembly manual. Thanks
Hi, thank you very much 😊 Damn it, Crealitycloud gives me a hard time it would be much better if I could upload a single zip file like on other sites. Anyway, give me your email and I'll send you a link to the zip file.
@@ajinoz1234 thank you the only thing that cannot be uploaded to crealitycloud is the .step file of the entire design, so if you want this too, let me know.
I have to say first that I wanted to use petg but my preferred brands were sold out. So the body and chassis are made of PLA from polymaker polyterra (strangely soft PLA material for these purposes, I just tried it). The front suspension and some other parts are TPU 98A from Formfutura python flex. The gold parts are PLA silk from Azurefilm. The silver parts are PLA aluminum silver from Spectrum. Bump stops are TPU 90A from Smartfil Tires are TPU 82A from Recreus. I used basically what I had.
I now have a running chassis ! I’m currently printing the body panels in red and black. It’s huge compared to a 3Dsets car, and is fun to drive. It tracks straight and is way too fast for indoors. I did have issues here and there, mostly caused by my not ordering all the needed parts or the delivery company ghosting me even though those parts are currently less than ten miles from me and have been for a month. I got the tires from your third link in the non printed parts list, the “bead lock” wheels in red. Unfortunately, they don’t have enough offset to clear the lower arms and the RSB arms. I’ve got 2.4 mm of washers between the wheel and the hex and need another 5 mm at least. I’ll look for wheels with more offset at some point. Thanks again for the model, I’m looking forward to driving it out back at work, we have a huge lot with gravel and dirt which it should handle just fine.
Even without body panels it looks good 😁, Yup, 1:9 is quite a large scale . That is quite a large offset that is needed for those wheels. The wheels from link 3 should be the same as those from links 1 and 2, only in a different color, but they are not 🤨I have to look for something else. Yup gravel and dirt that's perfect.
@@PatrikJKS I found 12mm hex by 12mm long extensions that push the wheels out just enough to center them between the arms and the fenders. Just make sure you get a version that fits the SCX10 and not the TRX4. You will have to open the center hole in the wheels to at least 5mm. The extensions use a tube nut instead of a standard nut since the hex is the same length as the stud.
Turns out it's faster than my driving skill. And that of a coworker. It makes quite the bang if you slide it into the exposed end of a length of train track rail. Another time. It disappeared in a big cloud of dust, popped up above the cloud briefly then came to a stop right side up. It's also been driven under a gate and flipped more times than I can count. Absolutely no damage to the chassis or running gear and not too much to the body panels. Ive glued the split in the hood, the B pillar on the passenger door and a corner of the roof back on. I like it! Edit: I posted a make on printables so you can see how I've treated it.
Yeah, tell me about it :D As I was concentrating on everything else, I didn't even notice that I put it upside down and when it came to mounting the front sway bar, I literally froze for a whole minute and looked at it and wondered what the F I done, at that moment it was just midnight so I decided to go ahead and finish it.
@@PatrikJKS I was reprinting the engine cover and rear shock mount for the Buggy when I saw your video. Last month it was a front hub for the Landy and rear shaft for the Buggy. I've purchased your files and put together an Aliexpress cart. Can't say when I'll get it assembled but I will post a make on printables. Also looking forward to a buggy if you do create one.
Thanks, Well, I don't know yet, I haven't done a speed test yet because I was concentrating on finishing the racing buggy, but now I'll have time and the weather will be good, so I'll go to test it.
It's too bad that 3D printed plastic is such a horrible structural choice for this - it's a great model - but 3D printing is only the answer if you want something very heavy, very weak and poor performance.
I am quite happy with the strength and also with the performance. Yes, 3d printed things are not the strongest, like for example molded nylon parts, but still I think that 3d printed things are not so bad, the specialy parts from TPU98A are quite strong.
