I have a printer and I like to print all kinds of projects. This week I finished building the car and wowww this car is amazing!!! So much fun and she has so much power! I'm glad I bought and printed this project. Thank you
Most of the 3D RC's I've seen on YT are pretty weak and look like crap, I have to say this is definitely one of the best I've seen so far, good job, wish I had a fricn printer now 😆
3D printing RC car parts is always a fun challenge. Since you’re going to break things it’s nice to not only print replacement parts but improve on the design to make them more durable. I struggle with the CAD though, take me a year to do what you did here.
Yes, as 3d printing advances and develops, and better materials are available for printing, it is actually possible to design something more durable. You know the more you design in CAD, the better and faster you will be, so just keep going. :) I modeled RC Tractor model 1 (unpublished version) for almost a year, RC Tractor model 2 for about half a year and Nomad for 1 month, so about.
I was going to say it needed thicker shock oil, too. Also, recessing the chassis screws is highly recommended. Nice build. I like that you 3D printed the body shell.
@@alexogle929 Yes, I already have thicker oil 👍, in the original design of the rc car, the screws are recessed, but when I was filming, I didn't have recessed screws, so I used the usual ones, and when they arrived, I replaced them. Thanks.
Thanks. Recommended printer build volume: 220x220x160 mm ( but you can also go under 190x190 if you manually adjust the position of the two longest parts on the build plate) And it's nothing extra that a printer should have, maybe a direct drive extruder would be an advantage, but TPU 98A(95A) can also be printed easily on Bowden Extruder with the correct settings. And above all, have the printer well calibrated.
It's not actually in the video but i added oil to the shocks later (350 cst is lighter but good for my purpose) and yes high number oils will improve the suspension and overall handling but it depends on each person how tune it to his style of driving.
No you can't print it entirely out of PLA. You can use PLA instead of PET-G, but it's necessary to use TPU for the other parts. But you don't have to worry about printing from tpu, this 98a hardness is really easy to print even on bowden extruder.
Thanks, yes hsp parts have a good quality/price ratio and you can find them anywhere in large quantities. Just one correction I didn't use 106015s but instead I used 166015 which is also nice.
Amazing work!!! I got a question though, if possible, can you provide us with the maximum width height length for the battery tray? Thank you, You rock!
Well, in the description of the video there are link to the pdf file as well as links to the file itself, where there is also a complete description of everything. Here is a link to the material: drive.google.com/file/d/16SzZunntkDiIUzozyV6HrlMUPs0hapOa/view?usp=drive_link
Hi really nice RC buggi, is it possible to add the lenght of the shaft, suspension, size of the servo etc... and also create a file with all the screws in ? may be join all that on Cult3d please it would help a lot, Thanks in advanced
Hi, thanks and everything that you mention it is already inside zip folder. Anyway, that's a damn good idea, so I'm adding list of non-printed material separately as a preview of non printed material. Now anybody can check it. (I'm adding it to cults3d and also to the description)
Hello, I used high rpm grease, which is used for gears in grinders (I have an old can of this grease at home, so I used it) but basically you can use any gear grease for rc cars.
Yep dude I know 🔥😁, I don't want to be someone who will tell you what to do next, Robak 2 is good, Nomad is good, so it's up to you what you choose... but I will definitely be happy if you try Nomad.
A noob like me did not know that you have to glue the tires, on the first ride the two front tires flew off 😂. I see you keep updating the files and that you added lights to the car. Could you please make a video or teach me how to wire the LEDs and control them from the controller. That would be awesome!!
This happened to me too i thought it was already glued and i didn't check it and the tires went our own way😂. And I will probably make a short video about the wiring and lights, and if not, feel free to contact me on ig. instagram.com/jkspatrik/
I have managed to purchase it, and i can say is that it looks amazing, it is very well documented, BOM list is very accurate, and overall a really good folder structure. There is only one thing, if it would be possible to also include the .STL files in the .zip file? so we can import them and modify to suit our needs? Thank you!
So it will be close (178mm largest part) but yes you can print it, you just have to place the side wall diagonally on the bed of the printer. formfutura.com/product/python-flex/ www.3djake.com/3d-printer-filaments/flexible-filament?&f%5B39%5D=77&f%5B66%5D=619 shop.fillamentum.com/collections/flexfill-tpu-flexible-filament?filter.v.price.gte=&filter.v.price.lte=&filter.p.tag=98&sort_by=manual
Great work. Did you 3d print any of the drive train, or is it mainly the suspension and chassis thats 3d printed? Im working on designing a bare bones 2wd buggy. Im only in my second year of mechanical engineering so i still have lots to learn with my design software (solidworks).
Thanks. No, the entire drivetrain is all metal because 3D printed drivetrains are weak and problematic. So good luck designing your buggy and hope to see it in a video one day when it's done.👍😎💪 (I'm using fusion 360 by the way).
Yes, the folder contains everything, some information on how to print, assembly manual, a list of nonprinted material with links, even a .step file with a complete design.
wow, good question, I didn't count it exactly, but when I was shooting the video, I had fun for about 15 minutes and I still had enough battery, so probably the 20 minutes are realistic for the 5200mah 2S battery that I used.
Some good videos about it : ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-TVotgv_OKmM.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-AQEAHEzaUJE.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-TZ_I9gQHgv4.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ha84jFODSCg.html
Probably not, for some parts it will be fine, but for some it will be too soft, for example arms and steering links. (a couple of people tried to print it from 95A, but I still don't know how it turned out.
Wow, it must have been a defective piece from the production, because otherwise I can't explain why it would crack at such a low load (10% throttle). I managed to bend one CVD joint and break two CVD joints, but all this at full throttle with a big jump and a very bad landing. By the way, I don't know if you noticed, but I recently made an update and now you can choose between CVD joint and Full dogbone joint or combine these two types.
@@PatrikJKS The broken cvd was on the rear wheel so most likely defective. Yes, now you have two versions of rear hub carriers and steering knuckles and different body. Would you make a spare parts list? I will have to wait few weeks for spares from juzi,
@@martinlabis9805 Yep exactly, yes I think I can make a list of spare parts that are the most problematic or something like a recommendation for basic spare parts that are good to have.
@@exitiumgaming5284 Actually, the entire nomad design is available in the folder as a .step file, so you can open it in a cad program and edit it as you wish. do you plan to use a longer CVD? how much longer?
@@exitiumgaming5284 Thank you so much. you can contact me on Cults3D or on IG instagram.com/jkspatrik/ FD means Full dogbone version Because, there is a choice of CVD or Full dogbone shafts in the front
Quick question: did you have a problem only with the screw link or was there a problem with other links as well? because I've tried everything and only the link for screws is out of date.
hey @PatrikJKS , I used the list on Google Drive that opens when I klick on the link on printables. I just tried with VPN connecting to a US server, same result. Here is the list of links not working(at least not for me): HSP Gearbox - Link 2 HSP dogbone drive shaft - Link 2 HSP Motor mount - Link 2 Brushless motor ESC Spur gear and pinion gear - Link 1 servo metal tie rod Allen Head Socket Cap Screws thank you
ok, I found the issue. I have Germany as delivery country on AliExpress since I am in Switzerland... as soon as I changed to US the part was available. Sorry for that.
I personally using these filaments: formfutura.com/product/python-flex/ shop.fillamentum.com/collections/flexfill-tpu-flexible-filament/products/flexfill-tpu-98a-traffic-black www.smartmaterials3d.com/en/flex-98a#/2-size-m_750g/11-colour-true_black/26-shoes_size-175mm ( By the way I am currently preparing an update/optimization for TPU 95A hardness, just a few more days and the update will be out, I think ).
@@scarfa21 (Ouch, sorry, my brain and eyes automatically replace the word substitution for recommendation :D ). So right now, yes, only TPU 98A will work properly, but as I mentioned, when the update is finished, it will be possible to use TPU 95A. But if you mean an overall different material than TPU, then the answer is no, there must be a combination of PETG and TPU material for proper functioning.
@@scarfa21 Yes, I heard that it is limited in the states, so that is also the reason why I wanted to make an update for the 95A. by the way, the update is already done, so happy printing :)
This design does not seem to have any camber adjustment with suspension excursion (the wishbones form a simple parallelogram). This is bad for cornering and real cars are NOT designed like this.
Yup, this design has no camber adjustments or any other adjustments. I wanted to make a simple RC truggy for fun that is ready for beginners, but the truggy is pretty good in corners so I don't see any problem.
@@PatrikJKS Actually there is no reason why a "beginner" that at 18 years old take the driving licence and drive his first car should drive a car with no camber adjustment, caster, anti squat geometry, anti roll bars, small scrub radius and all other important suspension design parameters properly dialed in. The better the design, the better the handling, the easier is the car to drive. "Adjustment" does not mean you have to screw or unscrew something, it is an automatic compensation built in the geometry and kinematic of linkages, and every parameter changes in a controlled and desired manner when the suspension moves. The lack of any basic feature of a suspension system, is more for beginner designers, rather than drivers or builders (printing and assembling a good design is as difficult as printing and assembling a bad design). This said, probably 99% of those considering printing this car do not even know what is camber, caster, and how a suspension should work. It has 4 wheels, it steers, jumps over an obstacle, and can spin the wheels, that is enough.
@@marcobassini3576 Sure... You're looking at it from a real car perspective but this is a rc truggy for fun so it literally can't compare but I get you.
Cool car and all but it's like 1/3rd 3d printed all of the other things are hobby grade ready made parts i also call your bluffs on the unbreakable part Mke some jumbs and bashing videos with it evne when you put in the driveshaft the whole bottom plate were flexing as all hell next time print a tubular chassis that would work better no wonder why all the better rc car manufacturers even chinese ones use tubular chassis.
Thanks I don't know the exact ratio of printed and non-printed parts, but metal parts are just metal parts. I currently have a video where I do some jumps... Yes, the chassis bends because the chassis bracket and sidewalls are not yet mounted, then it is already rigid, and you know, if you are skeptical about it, you can build it and try it yourself.😄
@@PatrikJKS Nah i got with the pro build parts i have 3d printed hidden blades since i'm an old Assassins ceed fan i bought the more expensive one from Rawice and 50% still failed due to layer delamination and jammed the mechanish. It's a good idea to print your rc cars but until a full layerless 3d printing arrives i withold to buy an expensive machnies to disappoint myself... But kudos for you actually learnig some enginering skills while you can play with it also...
@@maszkalman3676 What a nostalgic memory you brought me back with assassin creed and hidden blades what a good old days.🤗 But anyway I totally understand why you are disappointed with 3d printing. And also Thanks.
@@PatrikJKS Yeah the new submerging printing looks promising you know the sla printing when the print is in a liquid state but that required after print hardening etc and if you f@ck that up it's brittle as winter birdshłt.
