Glad to see you're still around. Literally found this video when I was trying to explain to my buddy what I want to do with my rx8 eventually. Though had to shelf those plans until I get my speed 6 running. Almost there just have a oil leak on the turbo return side to fix and I'm done I am already on the forums too
Alex, I'm on the forum, I have the 2019 V6 Challenger that we've messaged about. Thanks for listing out all the parts here, maybe this summer I'll start buying parts to build this out.
Cats and dogs often sort themselves out, however I had 3x pure bred blue Australian cattle dogs and 2x farm cats and the grumpy dogs never ever let the cats alone. I had to step in and assert my authoritah as top dog. Very quickly after that, if the dogs even looked sideways at the cats there was big trouble. Eventually the damn cats knew the dogs wouldn't touch them and started to get very cheeky by swiping the dogs for no reason knowing there weren't consequences. I had to step in. I'd yell at the cats when they swiped the dogs and then in support of me, the dogs would bark at me yelling at the cats. Oh boy then over it started again barking, chasing the cats squealing and hissing. All that work... In the end (5 years) it all settled down and they all loved each other. They really really loved each other, sit together, play together, sleep together, liked being around each other; we were surrounded by furry friends in harmony. It got easy after that because all the new cats and dogs knew nothing but love in the family but for 5 years it nearly drove us insane. Cats, a necessary evil.
Thanks for the update Alex. Good luck with the move and the new homestead! Was wondering when we would see you again. And mostly, thank you for your contributions to electrified boost community! God send!
Awesome video man, thought about this for years just never pulled the trigger. Thanks for being the guy doing so! I have a diesel truck that has a hard time spooling up, and this would be a cool add to get some boost down low, and hopefully a few psi up top too!
One day I wanna see you try and tackle adding that electric motor to a regular turbo to eliminate turbo lag ;) but I suppose you could just add it like a sequential setup and achieve the same result. Tell Roger my little Frenchie Penny feels his pain dealing with a cat...
Turbo guys use smaller turbo in a sequential setup, so a smaller turbo spools the bigger turbo. I dunno how complicated it would be but it seems easy enough... Coming from the complete noob. If it was me, I'd start with a cheap roots blower that pushed air into a bigger turbo. I don't know how much air flow it takes to spool a turbo.
Wow! $1500 (or even $2000 including bov & other ancillaries) is NICE! But I didn't catch whether that includes the computer for tuning, so I'm about to watch again.
Been following this for a good bit now. It should be trivial to control the ESC using a standalone ECU that supports generic outputs. I'm certain I could get it to work with the Haltech ECUs I use. Maybe after I finish my VGT K24 RX8 I build one of these and pop it on my other LS RX8, see if I can't map the duty cycle to some ECU params, probably TPS? Also, what can I do to help you setup a wiki? Forums are great for short-term discussion but I can't be aresed to read through a thousand posts just to know what ESC is the current de-facto standard. I'd personally love to see you write a page specifically on why VESC doesn't work for this particular application, since so many people seem to ask about it and don't know the history. Thanks for your time and investment!
hey Alex, i think i speak alot of the guys here, we want to support you, is there a way that you can machine and sell the bracket that holds the motor to supercharger? i could make it myself, but seeing the work you've done these past years. The blood and sweat put into this configuration with countless testing apparatuses and drag strip days. I'd love to be able to kick some profits back to you. Even i ya wanna sell a cad file on exact measurements you used for 10$.
Do the speed masters come up on the used market? And This is excited especially how easy it is to remove if you decide on another go fast vehicle. Thank you for all your hard work, time and money you pour into these projects. (Asking about the used market because I’m full time LEO and part time firefighter as well as Army national guard…aka, I’m broke and just like helping people lol)
Any interest in building an electrically-assisted-turbocharger (EAT) like the Garrett one used in the Mercedes M139? It’s basically the MGU-H from F1 but adapted for production vehicles. EATs still use exhaust gas to power the compressor, but also uses an electric motor during the initial spool to eliminate turbo lag. It’s the modern, much better iteration of Volvo’s PowerPulse.
Awsome to see such progress in the electric boost field! This seems to be the best universal setup I’ve seen in comparison to TorqAmp and PhantomElectricSuperChargers. Are there more videos on where can I find more videos about throttle controlling the electric supercharger as well as regulating its temperature from over heating?
People is always using motors for RC vehicles and they rarely output more than 10HP. I would like to see this being done with a proper electric motor say one from a nissan leaf, the supercharger will be huge but I think the performance gains will make up for it.
Whenever i get a little money up, id like to buy one of these just to put on one of my cars. Ive thought about building something like this ,probably as long as you have. I believe you could make several cars much better or lets say much more fun. For instance, my v10 excursion would probably love a few kpa during acceleration, and i bet one would likely get better fuel mileage, if, driven correctly.
4:59 so you're not running any kind of aftercooling? Gail Banks would be shaking his finger at you It's all about manifold air density. Have you measured your temperature going into the plenum?
You really don't need it until you start getting up there in boost. The Sledgehammer (the bigger version of this thing) does run meth injection and it took a 12 second car and put it in the 9s - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-RT0M88xHzNQ.htmlsi=PMWM40FfShAnMtvV ; but it doesn't need intercooling because it makes so much more power per psi than a conventional supercharger or turbo. But yes, there are tons of videos in the electric turbo playlist on my channel that show what the IATs are. This is a good one: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-mBM-2qIav74.htmlsi=fIb0C10gfyp4rLoJ
@@AlexLTDLX thank you for your prompt reply. I just know that you can get good power. Gail has a story about putting an ice water intercooler on a naturally aspirated motor and he picked up 6% more horsepower. So if there's power left on the table at atmospheric pressure, it seems like there would be power left on the table, with even small compression...
I had a custom Whipple setup on the LTD before this that ran A/W. Even with the A/W intercooler (with ice in the tank), it still took 15 psi to match what the Sledgehammer electric supercharger made on 6 psi with meth. But yes, anytime you can make the charge denser, you'll pick up power. And if you can make the charge cooler at the same time, you'll pick up even more because your tuning window widens dramatically, allowing more timing advance. The Whipple absolutely needed the A/W setup to run at WOT on pump gas. The Sledgehammer didn't need any cooling, and still went low 10s at over 130 mph.
Not sure if they still have them but v3 pack’s were selling at reduced price until the revised version came out because of failed expectations but they are still good as v2
With the speed controller i watched the vesc build i think the voltage wasnt high enough to produce enough for what you really needed they now have 32s and higher vescs i think redo doing thay build but with higher voltage vescs for be awesome a video cheers for the content 👍
It seems I need to do something custom like this. I was interested in torq amp and based on my motor hp (230hp), it would be a benefit. However, my 1.8L motor revs to 9000 RPM and I would probably actually lose power at the high end if their performance curves in the 3000-6000 RPM range were extrapolated to the higher RPM ranges. 40% pressure increase at 3000 RPM, 15% pressure increase at 6000 RPM leads one to think that the 5kW torqAmp just isn't enough for 7000RPM+.... You should finalize your design and sell it!
For esc you can go with much cheaper mksesc 75200 based on vesc. They are for less than 200. Otherwise it is about right. Also for controlling it I went with arduino taking accelerator pedal and rpm as input and giving some output according to a map.
I've had major problems trying to get a VESC to play nice at high eRPM. After spending over $500 and a couple of months of my life (I made some videos on VESC), eventually I gave up. It was not repeatable day to day or even consistent pull to pull.
Hey man love the video, love that you're trying to find a nice simplified way to generate power, and even get significant numbers. I'm sorry if this is a nonsense suggestion, ss I can't say I know too much... about anything actually., but i was thinking for some time, what if you put a high power electric motor in place of the starter motor that can be electronically controlled to add power to the drivetrain as an engine assist. Im guessing you'd have to reinforce/double up the flexplate/flywheel. I figure at the very least it should give you a good amount of low-end torque. Another unorthodox idea, could you have an axial motor 'in place of' your torque converter. I'm sure the electronics and some counter loading problems would be pretty complicated but might be well within the reach of a decent electronic automotive engineer. In it's drive line lower power configurations it could just perform as lock up value torque converter, in high-performance configuration it could actually add RPM with torque. Don't know why I got the feeling that you might be open to such suggestions, sorry if theyre a waste of time Got more stupid ideas but I feel I said too much already, again thank you for the video appreciate your time.
That's actually how most hybrids work. They usually have two motors in the transaxle, and one of them functions as the starter, adds motive power to the car and under braking it functions as a generator to recharge the packs. The axial flux motor on the torque converter is a very interesting idea. Axial flux motors are very efficient and well suited for such a relatively low rpm setup.
Hey i believe its been over a year u had this speedmaster p2 headunit and been testing on it! I plan to put this on my car and supercharge it can you guide any issue with the headunit itself or its been working fine how much boost have u pushed if you can guide on this? Any issue so far? Will appreciate your answer as cannot find much reviews on this charger
I've been busy building a new place over the last year 1,600 miles away. Though I'm closing in on the finish line. Then I'll be back to doing a lot more testing. So far, I'm not aware of any failures with this unit in an electrically driven situation, but I also don't think there have been many hours of tests yet, either.
@@AlexLTDLX also can you guide where exactly can this be bought from as i have emailed/messaged speedmaster and they dont reply at all. Will this fit a 4800cc v8 engine idea is to get 6-7psi out of it but is the charger big enough?
I've been busy building the new place for the last year and a half and its been impossible for me to stay on top of everything. But thanks for letting me know I'll look into it.
Alex, if you 'had' to replace the centrifugal with a Positive Displacement (Such as a Scroll-type supercharger, rotary lobe, rotary vane), and your goal was just a little 7-8 psi boost on-demand for a daily driver. Something like a 3.0 V6, and only up to 4000 rpm (literally 1/3 of the cfm's you've been hitting). What would you go with? Notice I said scroll-type and not twin-scroll. I'm talking Positive Displacement superchargers that produce an almost fixed pressure output at any RPM. I just want something for on-ramps, 0-50. I'll be using a diverter valve, that lets the car run NA or Boost, by opening/closing the diverter valve at the throttle body (sealing off the factory air piping from air filter to intake, preventing boost escape...). So the car can run NA most of the time without sucking air thru the supercharger (it wouldn't be able to thru a pos. disp. pump). It looks like they've got some really cool scroll-type, lower rotor mass, 88% isentropic efficiency...
Personally, I wouldn't do a positive displacement compressor. I used to run a Whipple and before that I had two Eatons on the LTD. The benefit of the PD supercharger is instant boost - something that an electric drive gives a centrifugal supercharger. The added benefits are that a centri is more efficient, you can draw through it (no need for a diverter valve), it's lighter, smaller and you can use a smaller electric motor to drive it due to the centri's much lighter impeller. But you mention a scroll type supercharger, which is different; I've only heard of them being on older VWs. TBH, I don't know much about them. But I'd assume the net power input to drive one (in watts) would be comparable in HP support to the centri unit. 200hp (total) would likely take about 5kW; 400 would take about 10kW. You'd have to match the motor/ESC to the operating rpm of the compressor.
I have a 2012 Jeep Grand Cherokee V8 5.7L (Overland Trim) and it has around 190,000 km. Do you think this is a possibility on my car setup? I have CIA by K&N and a catch can. No other engine modifications. New spark plugs but stock injectors.
OH yeah you can also add TUNGSTEN disulfide to your bearings in powder form to increase reliability and high rpm too. Not like ptfe, much more durable, moly is basically useless and is sold because of that fact at higher price + If you use ceramic bearings it helps too. It cannot damage unless you add too much. Added to grease or added dry, it helps wear, decreases heat, and best of all will extend seal life indefinetly.
if I would like to try a motor to drive a 2.1L, twin scroll supercharger until 25000 RPM, 14.7psi. Mine is a 5.5L V8 engine, max output at 7000RPM. Which spec of electric motor do you recommend ? Thanks in advance.
Hello, very cool setup. Very nice to see someone thinking more about the masses and the budget/space the masses have. Have you perhaps thought about replacing the batteries with supercapacitors? This would mean that you would have like 20-30s of boost and then the capacitors would charge up again from the alternator or battery in minutes to make another 20-30s. Just seems like a good idea because it could be more compact and normal batteries just take a long time to charge. Id rather always have a reliable 20-30s than find out that my batteries are too empty cus i just dont drive long enough drives to recharge them if yhat makes sense?
Supercapacitors have a very low power density and a linear (i.e. straight down at a 45* angle) discharge curve. That means the performance would start dropping off instantly. I have a super capacitor vs lipo video on my channel explaining this in more detail.
impressive you have it down to a kit! now how about for road course applications! yes a bigger battery but the motor and cooling? or the bearings of the turbo? I am not criticizing, just asking based on your experience.
As long as you mount the thing where it would see airflow, cooling shouldn't be an issue. For road courses, a single set of packs would be enough for a run (or two or three, actually); you could have a second set of packs you could swap in, or just run them in parallel. I don't have enough data yet to say that the bearings would have to be replaced with something better.
@@AlexLTDLX ah, yeah it's all about the domain of use for sure. because it's electric and you are in Drag mode you can spool it for that time how ever you want. Same for a road course it's just that it could definitely rest in braking zones, or off throttle zones. WOT is as much time as one can manage. For me I am on track for 20-30 minutes at a time, let's say 12 of that is WOT it could be higher. If there is a natural ramp rate for the spool then that would ease controller efforts.
@@samthing4thetrack806 I do have a plan for a universal linear controller. I just need to get down to Texas and get things settled to start development on that in earnest.
Will a 2nd car battery on boot be suffient enough to power the electric motor Also need the pedal to control the electric motor like a top mount supercharger linear power
Have you ever added a little nitro propane to your gas? Dyno proven and i think it would give you about 50hp just adding it to your gas. I dont know how that would go with a sc snd your whole setup
You mean nitromethane? With a power adder you would be much better off using something like E85 pump fuel if they sell it in your area or buying nitrous oxide and adding a tiny hit of that to cool and increase the oxygen density of your boost.
I really really like this so if i got a 185hp engine with long tub headers i should be ok and this set up will give me 5psi of boost? I run no cat or muffler my o2 sensor is in my header tube on the drivers side. I have multiport fuel injected engine woth mass air flow. You think i would be ok? Its actually a 2.8v6 with hooker supercompetion long tube headers jet hot coated. I think i would have to up my injectors from 17lbs though. I could upgrabe to better heads and intake to get to 200hp it has a cam in it 1.5 roller rockers jacobs pro street ignition with ultra coil holley annihilator ignition module. But it is starving for air. I know a guy who has 1 with 11.5 to 1 compression super long tubes and a weber carbs dyno at 270hp i know it can do it but mine is a little under your 200hp mark.
Can you tell me the heat of the shaft coupler? I am hoping my friend can 3d print me a coupler that can withstand the heat and force of your set up, he has some metal imbued highe strength filament that can be utilized. I'd be willing to try it.
Awesome info, thanks. Is there a way to set up something similar with much larger batteries for much longer use, charging on a 12v system to replenish..........?
Sure you can. But not sure why you'd want to - a couple of minutes of WOT in a 600hp car is not something you'd be likely to use unless you're racing Pike's Peak or something - even then, you'd probably never be in boost that long. And I do have a charger setup in the car, btw. Though it would take a while to fully recharge a dead battery.
@@AlexLTDLX Hey thanks for taking the time to answer me. Well the reasoning is for an aircraft engine, mine. As you know, with altitude you're losing manifold pressure. I'm looking to boost my amateur built Mll RG. I live on the W Coast. Big rocks. At 10,000 I'm losing 30+%. Turbocharging was my plan and I have all the parts to complete however, heat and exhaust fab are a pain.
....now if I could figure that out...even a few minutes of use at a time would be useful How would that be done? Battery size? What about heat of the motor? Thanks
@@badattitudeaviation just make sure it gets plenty of airflow and heat won't be an issue. A 20 amp hour pack should give you about 4 minutes of run time.
That motor is limited to 50,000 rpm; you go much above that and you risk disintegrating the rotor. But realistically, peak motor power is around 30,000 rpm.
So, on my K24A2 Civic I can expect to go from 225 to about 350HP and I have the option of spraying methanol to keep things cool. What boost level would I expect on a 2.4L across 3,000 to 7,500 rpm range? I need to find and install a limited-slip diff first.
Probably around 9 psi and over 400hp. But all boost isn't the same. This setup has no pumping losses - so it will make more power per psi than even the most efficient turbo can muster - turbos create backpressure and generate a lot of waste heat as well. You'd probably need 2-3 more psi from a turbo (depending on a lot of variables) to match the power you'd get from this. I did a few videos about this exact topic, with real data (but the data I had compared an A/W intercooled Whipple to the Sledgehammer electric supercharger). In a nutshell, the Sledgehammer made the same power to the wheels (and backed up with track times) at 6 psi as the Whipple did at 15 psi.
@@AlexLTDLX More than I want, but turning it down a bit only means not turning it all the way up to begin with. The whole purpose of it will be 3rd gear pulls to pass people with "great authority" on our crooked 2-lane highways. I think 50-80 in a couple seconds will work nicely; most likely they would stay passed too!
I'm in the same boat. I occasionally carry a 1,500-lb camper on my 1st gen (4.7-liter VVT V8) Tundra, and am looking to get 'passing' performance equal to what the OEM truck achieves without the camper on-board...@@goldcountryruss7035
What about using this as the "small" unit of a compound setup on a 3L? Want to slap a huge precision pro mod on a new Supra (BMW B58 engine) but cut lag.
Well, generally the reason for two different size turbos in a compound setup is to avoid lag. Obviously, this setup doesn't really have any lag. You'd have to be careful that this unit doesn't become a restriction for the big turbo if placed before the big turbo. But place it after the big turbo, and it should rock. I really should do a video on how boost in a compound setup works - it's not additive, per se. It's more based on pressure ratios.
@AlexLTDLX understood, sir, it is multiplicative. That being said, understand that as long as a small turbo is producing any boost, it is not a restriction for the larger unit. To the smaller unit, the volume and pressure from the larger unit is simply treated as atmospheric.
You'd probably get about 2 minutes of runtime out of those batteries. But you'd be at 600 hp and 600 hp at WOT for 2 minutes is about 1:45 seconds longer than what it would take to wreck your car at WOT - lol. That's a lot longer than it seems. With my current packs (18 ah) in the LTD and an electric supercharger drawing almost 700 amps (more than double what you'd see with this unit), I've never had to charge the packs in a day of racing or a full day of making dyno pulls.
@@AlexLTDLX is there a way to recharge the batteries while the vehicle is running? my 1982 S-10 ran a 8.91 second 1/8th mile at the dragstrip an hour from my house. the elevation here is 7,000 feet. your setup is interesting.
I could, but hp loss on a 500 hp base engine is the equivalent of 1 psi of boost loss (according to my datalogs) when it's not running - not really worth the added complexity for ~30 hp; especially if you have the option to turn the thing on. I'd like to dyno it without the e supercharger on to confirm that hp loss number.
How much time will you be able to run this system that you show here? Obviously battery size and blower output will affect that, just looking for an idea
I've never had to recharge the Sledgehammer's pack (which is 18ah) during a day of racing or dyno tuning. But the Sledgehammer's current draw is more than double of what this unit draws. So I feel pretty safe in saying more than you'll use before the fun is over. But if you really want a time, you'd probably be able to squeeze almost a minute and a half of full boost out of it. I know that sounds like very little, but a minute and half of 600hp WOT would be more than enough to do 3 Texas Mile runs, or 8 quarter miles passes. You could also run more batteries if you need more time. Or you could have set up in-car charging like I have in the LTD; so when full power isn't needed, the pack recharges.
That would not work very well, unfortunately. A supercap has a linear discharge curve. Which means the performance would drop off instantly and not last long. Nevermind that a 60 volt, 700 amp capable supercapacitor would be huge - they have an incredibly low power density. If you poke around on my channel, I compared a lipo to a large supercap. The lipo outperformed it in almost every way. But a lot of people make the same suggestion you did - it's good thinking, just not terribly practical (yet).
@AlexLTDLX just another question Here is what i am thinking to setup correct me if any mistake Car dodge charger 3.6 800kv motor directly to turbo fan no pulley 4074 800kv max volt 62 max rpm 50k weight 410g 12v to 48v stepup converter 80 amp I have access to hybird battery cells which is 7.5v each i think will be better choice they perfome like between lithium battery and super cap My goal is to run turbo for 70 seconds for instant boost because i always race from 60 kmph to 80kmph, including there is 80amp incoming always to charge the batteries I am also car technician do unlocking stuff on dodge and tuning also good knowledge about electronics so i will understand your suggestion easily
That is an option you can easily add. The LTD has a charger, but I've never had to use it, to be honest. It charges faster from the plug-in charger I built for it. Charging at 50 volts and 10 amps would pull over 40 amps from the car's 12 volt system - that could cause some issues, and would still take almost an hour to charge while driving.
With such short burst required a battery of super capacitor cells may be cheaper and more durable, IMO. Sent you an email a few months back, subject matter Vacuum Sublimation. That account was locked for some nonsensical TOS violation, a few days after. Never knew if you replied, as it seemed to be a solicitation for a phone number. "send us a text and we'll unlock your acct" Did you have any interest? Seems Mazda will be using the same tech on the new Iconic SP to get 1200mi range.
Super caps have two big issues - they have about a 10x lower power density than lithium batteries and their discharge curve is linear - in other words, voltage drop continuously while discharging - you'd see a huge dropoff in performance. Lithium batteries tend to have a much flatter discharge curve.
Hello from France, is this sustainable over time? in terms of electricity consumption, the alternator and the battery would hold up for a trackway car that runs at full speed for 20 minutes ? thank you
You wouldn't be able to run full boost for 20 straight minutes. But on a typical road course, you wouldn't be at full boost on a more powerful engine the whole time either. You could always run additional battery packs in series for additional run time. A typical alternator wouldn't be able to charge the packs much in 20 minutes. But all of those issues are pretty easily overcome.
@@AlexLTDLX Ok, so for track use, tracday circuit it's ruined. It's a shame, thank you very much for your answer, it will save me from wasting time and money.
Well, I've used arduinos as controllers, and I bought a VESC 75/300. The arduinos don't like all the EMF such a high-powered application creates - you can see the arduino crap out mid-track in this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-nlTVHkfSQXM.htmlsi=-C5SfjK40yMuiHw8 As for the VESC, it is, in a word, garbage as far as a useable product is concerned. I tried to make it work - I have a bunch of videos in my "electric turbo" playlist with the VESC. Even so, it certainly isn't any cheaper - I think I paid around $550 for the VESC shipped. You need a controller capable of 450 amps for this unit; and as I've said, all the VESC is really good for is electric skateboards and generating faults (and, to be fair, it's a good teaching/learning tool). You also can't use a standard MAP sensor - you need to use a differential sensor. Otherwise, you need a TPS signal or once it starts running, it'll never shut off. But if you do manage to get one running I'll be happy to feature your project on my channel. Sorry if this comes across as negative, but I've been there, done that. Thanks for watching, subscribing and commenting!
@@AlexLTDLX More capacitors my dude! ALL the capacitors! ** No really, a bigger cap across the (5V?) input of your Arduino (perhaps a basic RC circuit to filter out all noise) to smooth out any EM should help with that.
Bigger and smaller caps. Smaller ceramic capacitors help filter out high frequencies. also run a buck converter which is fully isolated to prevent any noise passing through the system.
If you added the motor from your sledgehammer to the P2 speed master and geared it to spin faster would it be able to produce more power than you rated in the video or is the p2 maxed out with the castle 2028? I ask because My engine is 200whp NA 4 cylinder engine and my goal is 460-500 whp . To reach 14-16psi/ this level is compounding the only way ? Please do a video on how compounding changes boost level and power levels.Thanks for awesome videos as always!!!
The LMT motor could be geared up to work; but I'm not sure the belt would hold up at those speeds. Also, the ESC and motor are very expensive - $1000 for the motor and $2000 for the ESC. It would actually be cheaper and more efficient to run two of the units I describe here in a compound setup. That should get you there. I've been thinking about doing a video about compound boost actually. But any new videos won't come out until I get down to Texas. I leave this weekend.
Verry nice video and a good joob! I was looking for something for my kawasaki zx10r 2004 for a bit more power. N/A tuning is expensive and electric turbo also around $2000,- i think im going to buy a cheap ebay turbo with internail wastegate for 200$ and make self a manifold
This would be overkill and likely would go into surge on an engine that small (hp wise). You could build a smaller unit to suit, or you could go the route you suggest - but it'll end up costing a lot more than $200 bucks in total, even if you have all the tools to fab it yourself. Both are viable, both have their pros and cons.
I assume the amount of power needed to sustain just a soft turbo pressure (0,5bar) throughout whole powerband of a 5.0v8 revving to 6500rpm is at least 2kW. It takes a 48-72V 40-30A motor and driver module to do it. Plus a step up converter from car's 14,4V installation that can handle such current. And all of it should resist extensive use and heat. For me a typical chinese turbo, some friend that can fabricate all that's necessary for conversion will still be cheaper. But it's my guess only.
@AlexLTDLX, what would it take (roughly) to support the boost level needed to achieve 650hp on a 200 base hp engine? Bigger motor/batteries? My thought is the air mass flow rate would be the same as a 500 base hp engine making 650hp, but the boost pressure would be higher for the smaller 200 base hp engine which means a more powerful motor would be needed I'd imagine?
Unfortunately, it doesn't work that way. We're limited by available brushless motor technology. Which fundamentally means that we're stuck at fairly low boost levels with a single unit due to rpm limitations. In your case, several smaller units running in a compound setup would accomplish your goals, but you'd need 40+ psi of boost to hit your number. That's a very high pressure ratio to try to stay efficient (i.e. stay on the compressor map) even for a turbo. It's possible, but may not be practical.
@DLX Thanks for clarifying. So in total there's a solution via multiple motors. My setup is currently making 750whp with 30psi on a 220 base hp motor (2JZ). It can only make it on E85. Otherwise the tune drops power to 500whp when running pump gas only, so although it doesn't require 40psi I completely see your point. Thanks for the amazing work you've done and shared with the world!
@AlexLTDLX just another question Here is what i am thinking to setup correct me if any mistake Car dodge charger 3.6 800kv motor directly to turbo fan no pulley 4074 800kv max volt 62 max rpm 50k weight 410g 12v to 48v stepup converter 80 amp I have access to hybird battery cells which is 7.5v each i think will be better choice they perfome like between lithium battery and super cap My goal is to run turbo for 70 seconds for instant boost because i always race from 60 kmph to 80kmph, including there is 80amp incoming always to charge the batteries I am also car technician do unlocking stuff on dodge and tuning also good knowledge about electronics so i will understand your suggestion easily
Thanks for letting me know. I assume you checked your spam folder? I've just gotten down to Texas so I'm a little swamped atm. I'll try to look into this this weekend.
Lol - if only I could. I can see a time in the next year or two where I'm selling parts to allow people to assemble their own kits. Everyone's got different requirements, and frankly the liability scares me. Can you imagine what would happen if someone fired one of these up and tried putting their hand over the inlet? Instant finger frappe - it's like having a 20 hp shop vac and blender all in one. Normally with a turbo or supercharger you have an engine screaming along with it. This thing can literally be turned on at full power on your desk (and it would make a helluva mess - ask me how I know...)
Did I misspeak in the video? (serious question - I've been loading the moving trailer for the last 3 days). This setup will spin the impeller in the 28,000 - 37,000 rpm range depending on load.
@@AlexLTDLX No, I was looking at the motor on amazon as I want to do the same thing and it says 800 RPM, I was looking at others that can do 25,000-30,000 so why this one and if this one is so great should I go with 400 RPM as my motor is small and 130hp. I just thought you would want that 30000 rpm but it sounds like 800 somehow gets there
@@AlexLTDLXalso I was thinking of creating a peltier cooling box/intake. It would be a tube that goes to a box that has a large array of peltier modules cooling when you turn them on, I think you would also have tgo use external power on this too as the power from the motor would cancel it out wouldnt it, or is this something you could power off the alternator and it would be worth it? Either way seems like a good idea to chill the air a ton but maybe its a horrible idea
@@AlexLTDLX My build is going slooooooow, but I'm excited to see what I can do with my Honda K24 engine with your e-turbo design. McMaster Carr is awesome for parts.
What those NEED are gan drives and amorphous core stator and n55 magnets. Its been decades almost, and nobody sells a reasonably priced cross compatible smd package/drive-able GAN mosfets. Why the frig dont they make a dip package NOT tiny chiny pissy whiny china crosseyed miniscule packages??? Its an upgrade from 85 to 95 percent efficiency for just the drive, and the amorphous core is another 3-5 percent, but more torque across the curve. And n55 magnets will increase torque decrease size needed and it comounds the efficiency and torque benefits by 3 facors because of inefficiency stacking. This should be the case for any power drives these days, and it should be cheap, and the same format as the regular mosfet drives because they are basically identical anyways they just want to sell you driver chips and more chiny crosseyed supporting circuitry. Overall cost on just materials is only up say 25 dollars per hp which is reasonable as hell.
