Good little video and good advice at 9.59 about those "clips". I recently helped a family member on one of these little cars, who was complaining about terrible brake squealing. It turned out that the garage who fitted the previous discs/pads had fitted the clips (on the offside front) with the little "ears" protruding inwards!
Watching this 1 year later, only thing I do different is I have a block of wood foot long and 4x2 with a groove cut in it that stops the trolley jack damaging the sill. Also a wire wheel on a battery drill (Aldi) cleans crap off nicely.
Just got a 59 plate Aygo for my lads to learn in. Your vids will be a great teaching aiid for getting them to do a bit of maintenance. Top job mate. Subbed.
In the 80s my dad had a Nissan laurel and the lip terrible, which was getting in the way of pad changes.. they wanted £200 per disc in those days, about 600 quid in today's money... Out came the angle grinder
I’d by lying if I said I’d never done it before. Its an open diff so I could have probably just started it in gear and floored it with the wheel off and rubbed a file against it haha
Very funny, and easy to follow 👍 One question, you pushed the piston back with the screwdriver, then mentioned you were gonna push it back further when you were putting it back on, do you need a wind back tool, or can you do this with your hands?
Cheers. No real need for a wind back tool on these but could he used. The only time I ever use one is on handbrake callipers where the piston needs twisting and pushing back at the same time to return it. I usually push them back with my thumbs which isn’t as hard as you’d think as long as you keep the piston perfectly straight, however some can be too stiff to do that in which case I usually either carefully wedge something in the old pads like a screw driver, or use a big pair of grips. Main thing is to make sure to push the piston back straight though, or you’ll make it harder for yourself and potentially damage something. Also, good practice to undo a bleed nipple when returning pistons to refrain from pushing the brake fluid back up through the master cylinder as it can also cause damage, but as long as you’re careful you should be ok.
@@Carnegiestudios26 nice simple job, just make sure you’re confident to do it right and make sure nothing is loose as brakes are a feature you want to work. Also, I can’t remember if I cleaned the sliders up in the video, but check them and make sure they’re free and if not they want stripping down, cleaning up and re-greasing with the right type of synthetic grease. Not copper grease as it’s not a lubricant, and normal oil based grease can attack rubber components etc.
Great video, thanks! I'm about to do this for first time and have a question... Do you use a torque wrench on the caliper bolts? I don't have one and wondered how important they are. Cheers
Ideally yes, there will be a torque setting for every bolt. Generally speaking though, this job can be done without one as long as you’ve got a decent feel for how tight the bolts are/should be. Also, wheel bolts always want re-checking about 50-100 miles after being fitted to make sure they’ve not come loose.
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos They dos take ya serious pal. Serious. Spesh when it's brakes and shit. Well, eyes do anyway. Important stuff brakes. Like dancin to bangin choons. Deadly.
To appeal to the US audience you're going to have to translate those communist metric measurements into things like 'thirteen fifteenths' and 'three and a half nineteenths'. Also say this a lot: 'So now what you're gonna do, you're gonna...'.
