i watched your video , and had the same peoblem , so today i stripped the whole lot out , on the bench with the gear stick assembly , measured the end float brought about by wear in the swivel ball , persevered and stripped it all out ,, made a stainless steel shim , exactly the right size and shape , heat formed it into the right curve for the ball and went to re assemble it all using tungsten disulphide lube ,, and got it back together and into the car ,,,, perfect for three gear changes , then it stuck , stripped it all apart again and took the shim out ,,, reassembled it to its original condition , and put three self tapping screws in ,, perfect.
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos nope ... spent all afternoon at it ... then three screws took two mins ... its the perfect fix .. you should put three screws in a bag and sell them as a kit
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos I wish I recorded what I've done to my Aygo's gear lever.. I took the lever completely out ( you need to undo 2 gear cables. One is on the left side with one curved pin. Then one is underneath where you have to pull out secure wires both sides with a screwdriver. And then when the lever is free pull it to the left and in the same time use thin flat screwdriver to undo 4 clips around white bushing. Whole bushing will pop out. Then pull it up and remove from the left bearing. You might need to use some force. But don't worry you're not going to brake anything. ) When I took it out there was loads of factory applied white grease. I left it how it was. The only upgrade was 4 stripes of old credit card. Cut it in around 10x20mm and stick in the socket where plastic bushing was placed. You will see the spacers and if you cut wrong size just adjust to the dividers. Then put back lever with ball and casing. Use flat screwdriver to avoid credit card pieces being smashed when you push down the casing. It took me 20 minutes to find better way to do it and my gearbox is as brand new. If you have bigger loose use extra bits of credit card or plastic mineral water is 1/10 thinner so you can adjust. Hope that helps.
I cannot help but notice in your videos that you constantly swear, make sexual innuendos and indulge in cheap smutty schoolboy humour. Please keep up the good work. Oh, nearly forgot, the mechanical tips and advice are great as well.
Hi mate, great video again. I need to do this on my daughters C1 but Before I go ahead with it I wanted your opinion on replacing the whole gear shifter unit with one from a MK2 C1/Aygo/108. Do you know if it would fit into a MK1 C1? The idea is that I could get a good condition unit from the breakers and being from a newer model it would have less wear and tear.
I’m not sure if the bush comes as a separate part, but looks like it does come out. Shouldn’t be too bad to change by the looks of it though if it’s available, as long as the bolts holding the housing to the floor aren’t seized in.
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos thanks! I asked Citroen about it after I got it & their reply was an astounding "common issue on the c1" and no effort to fix it 🙄 it's usually fine after the car has warmed up a bit anyway, oddly enough.
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos sounds about right. I've watched your videos of water leaks too (and pretty much everything else). I keep finding my jackets wet in the boot but no other signs of water leak on the carpets/sides etc it's really odd. Think it might be through the very top of the boot dripping and sitting on my waterproof hi-vis, but I'd have to not be lazy and test it to confirm!
@@Lassitude1001 sounds like it could be if they’re directly below the seal. You can sometimes “adjust” it. Pull the seal off and bend the metal outwards a bit towards the hatch then put the seal back on. It’s made of really thin tin that bends easily, and probably gets pushed in slightly over time by the hatch.
It’s still not bad. It’s not quite as good as when I first did it but it’s still way better than it was before I did it. Might put another screw in it to tighten it back up if it gets baggy again
You can just pull the gaiter off and bang them straight in. I only took them all off because I planned on taking it apart and doing it a different way before coming up with this idea. It works well , and is still working fine since this video too!
Not especially, but they want to go onto the slot of the bush as shown and I made sure to put them so the screw heads were out of the way of the gear stick when selecting all gears.
It seems that it’s quite normal for these cars to be like that. I’ve heard that they don’t have a 2nd to 1st synchro, but that may not be correct. I do know that it’s a question that’s often asked on the Facebook groups though.
I think I’d need to lift the cradle up to make room to slide the stick further through the ball, but as long as it goes through then it’s possible I suppose.
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos Ed China did one on an early wheeler dealers, think it might have been a nova? (Apologies to the American subscribers, I don't mean a Chevy Nova, I mean a Vauxhall (Opal, (for you guys in Europe),),), The growth of this channel is blowing my mind! 🤯
So long story short twist yer knob till it comes off, pull the skin up over the knob, then screw the knob till its stiffer again, then lube yer knob , then on to the bush screw that as well , and finally put yer knob back in its place and enjoy playing with it...
