I love the ultimax series. From the first time I saw them in the Parts Express adds coming to the house! I’m glad they worked out the lamination issues they had in the beginning and now these are monsters for the price point.
When I model the UM10-22 out, it likes a 1.4 ft^3 (40 liters) tuned to 24Hz pretty well. However, with your 3" diameter port, your max port velocity is a whopping 55 meter per second at 20Hz! That's double what most people would consider acceptable. You'll get port noise for sure with significant wattage below 30Hz.
I don't think everyone realizes the sheer effort that goes into a video like this! Not only is the subwoofer build amazing and done extremely well but the level of camera work, mixing of the audio and all of the editing would take days to do (0:52 even the saw blade is matching with the music)! Keep up the amazing work, videos like this require a lot of work and it sure pays off. Well done!
I built a 12" Titanic MkIII 500 watt sub and chose a larger ported enclosure (about 2 cu. ft.) for music/home theater and am very pleased with it. With the interior bracing, I call it the "Norge" after the old little super heavy refrigerators, as I have to use a hand truck to move it around. Double walled 3/4" MDF gets heavy quickly, but doesn't rattle. BTW, nice video and nice woodworking.
I do say even though I'm very late. A box that small for that sub, I'd probably use 2 bass radiator's same size as the sub. Though that's what I've done to a sub this size and it was wonderful. Great job btw :)
man, it looks REALLY better than i expected... the finishing touch are simply perfect. edit: *now you have a new SUB* :lennyface: -butithinkifyouusematteblackwilllookwaybetter- edit2: in the second line "asterisks" makes a traced sentece...
The ultimax series works really well in quarter-wave T-Lines and end up playing a full octave lower before rolloff... and they’re fast, extremely fast reaction wise. When facing a corner this definitely shortens any group delay the room gain has. When you don’t over drive them... the Ultimax’s are really good for DIY. As good and even better than SVS at pennies on the dollar.
Your sub-woofer looks really nice...BUT if you show it to an audio engineer...He will tell you that the box is way too small as a speaker made for low or very low frequency requires a much different wooden cabinet to insure a proper air flow. Keep up the good work and never stop learning!!
Jeffray Crownwell Finally someone who isn't bashing on his box design. But just pointing out that it isn't the best. And just appreciates the effort in the video and the build itself. Thank you :D
@@TheJohnypie Thumb rule - the smaller the enclosure the higher your peak freq will be and especially the peakier it gets. ffs learn how to get your "facts" straight..
wow what a sub. first I was like isn`t this box way too small, but after i dropped the numbers into bass box pro i found out that this sub will play realy good in 40l tuned to 21hz box
Judging by the way he held that hacksaw says he doesnt do much hand work or woodwork. Which is probably why, as someone else pointed out, that the video work is so good.
That is a supremely better box than the Dayton kit box. Regardless if you have the titanic MKIV or the ultimax, they need a better box than the kit has. Well done.
I like Ultimax series, i got a 12" in a 52 liter box whit a Earthquake SLAPS 12 passive radiator in my car, its goes deep and what a punch... (Running coils paralel [1Ohm] and 1000WRMS)
With that stuffing you should forget about anything below 36 - 38 Hz ... It will be consumed and reverberated from even order harmonics to odd order harmonics, leaving you with a pump-a-tron fart-lover's semi-tone aesthetics that makes your eyes create HUGE sound waves in your brain, as placebo effect dictates.
Dude you know what would be dope .. If you made a center channel speaker with 2 eight inch woofers.. and 1. Six and a half three way speaker in the center.. And then ad a cross over. Run the center speaker on mid frequencies.. with an added l-pad knob to adjust the brightness..
Nice one. 500W RMS it's pretty enough for any room and it sounds so good. There is one question, if normal shops subwoofers don't have the soft thing you put inside, how come they still sound good? In my opinion I would cover the subwoofer with that material like carpet. It will look better than the shiny finish. Awesome work you did there and also try to make the sides round, they will look so much better. Well done!
Enjoyed watching !!!!Just a question.... What's the point in measuring 90 degree after the whole box is nailed together and glue is bonded firmly. If you find it not exactly 90 degree how are you going to correct it ??? Secondly, you put in large lumps of ployfill. Did you glue it in??? How do you make shure it doesn't touch voice coils.
for those saying it's underpowered, he just barely turned it up, i assume that's because he is still breaking it in. you can't just beat on a brand new sub, you won't get the desired result, you will shorten it's life and you will probably miss it's whole potential through it's whole lifespan. i bet we will have a good sound demo pretty damn soon, that's how he always does it, relax.
The small ultimax subs seem very un-efficient. I tried the 8 inch it was very quiet. The 15 had potential. Just when it seemed like it was going loud and deep, the coil bottomed out! The 18 inch ultimax has a triple stack motor, it's probably really good.
Hello. Please tell me which speaker is better to choose for home? home cinema dayton-audio-rss315ho-44-12 vs DAYTON AUDIO UM15-22 Ultimax ? which is more suitable for home?
Nice one, I have a 7.2 Onkyo X-Nr575e and wanna build 7.2 speakers for it. What speakers would you recommend? I already have JL audio subwoofer speakers x2.(12" 600W) . What can I blend with this? I need a commendation for Vocal or centerpiece, front and back 7.2 surround sound
The Dayton plate amp would have been a much better amp. It is a class G amp that gives a class AB clarity. In other words it plays much cleaner clearer bass with virtually no distortion and has many more features for a few dollars more. When you are spending this much on a powered subwoofer it may as well be the best you can make it at a reasonable price. This is a great subwoofer and Im sure yours sounds great but next time do a little more research to maximize your project. All in all its a good project. Nice job.
You really should consider learning a more advanced woodworking joint than the butt joint. That is the weakest joint their is. And nailing or screwing into the endgrain is an easy way to split a board. What you need to do is make what is called a rabbit on each of the boards so that you can join them by laying them over a triangular brace cut from a 2x2 ripped in half. Then you should inset the front face so it sits on these braces and the edges of the side rabbits and fits flush. Glue and finish nails will hold it but now you will have tight mitered joints rather than butt joints and a way stronger box. Also, if you cut a dado in the middle of each side board you can slide a brace that looks similar to the front plate down into the box that will brace all four walls and support the back of the magnet assembly.
No selfmade port? Im disappointed. It looks WAY too short and small. For drivers with such a massive xmax you should go for 1/2 membran area for the port area. Next time increse the diameter of the upper driver board. It looks way better when the driver fits into the wood. Anyways good job :)
Hi Doublsmm..... Since the plate amp ins mounted on the back panel behind the sub, do you get any vibration in the amp plate ? What's needed to ensure that the amp plate does not vibrate with the back force of the sub?
noice but get some Earthwool from bunnings that pillow stuffing is useless. and do take the advise from others in this comment section about ports and research
The port is too small, you can see that because this is a high RMS rated sub-woofer which is receiving high RMS wattages from his amps. A small port / enclosure will cause the sub-woofer not to build up the pressure it should be building up. It doesn't allow for that, thus resulting in a boomy sound, basically faking volume (which is why it's still playing loud, exactly what companies who make prefab boxes do). The port itself is alright, but if you take a look at the length and throw it in to WinISD it's easy to see the port velocity is WAY over 10% of the speed of sound, which is about where it starts making port noise. General beginner mistakes.
"Now what I'm going to do is put some songs on the subwoofer and play them for you guys so you can see that this subwoofer sounds even better than it looks" Ah yes, because someone's speakers outputting the input of a microphone positioned in a room with the sub is going to give any resemblence to the original sound...
