I really appreciate the fact that you explain details of the build, rather than simply showing the build process without any dialogue or explanation. Thanks for going to the extra trouble.
I just tried to order the carbide from MSC but shipping was $12.99 so I ordered the same carbide from Progressive Industries and shipping was free. I did pay $1.39 per piece more through Progressive. Thanks for the video. I’ll be trying my own based off that design when the carbide arrives.
If I May, Great build. I, like many others prefer the o-1 tool steel better than aluminum. I have not had really good luck with steel bolts in aluminum threaded holes. In addition, I had a problem with the "hard plate" surfaces coming unglued after the guide gets hot and dunked in the cooling bucket several times. I pretty well solved this problem by using my marking rig to etch multi floral patterns into the carbide plates ans some on the matching side of the clamp. I tried several epoxys' but settled on T-111, available on Amazon. After 50 - 75 blades later they are still in place. This is wonderful clamp to use before and after heat treating. I hope this has been helpful and I also hope that I have not came across as a "know-it-all". I wish you well, LP
Thank you for your notes Larry! I'm curious to see how thing file guide holds up. The epoxy I used the second time around was Combat Abrasives Rouge Epoxy... Time will tell. Have a great weekend!
I be made them out of SS with out carbide , I have no mill. SS because I can dip in water and no rust like aluminum. Might order carbide from your source and grind a place to put them on. Keep doing the videos.
Red Beard you are awesome I used one of your bevel tricks and I will work on the a set of these . Nice work and thanks for helping new guys out. It makes everything more fun to learn the many ways to make a knife that is quality. Thank You!
Nice fileguides. I am planning to make a set for myself. But I think you had the wrong order of operation. Glue the carbide first, with this the glue gap would not matter. Then algin the fileguide that the carbide surfaces are true and flat to each other (check with your square) on the granite plate for example. Clamp then with cant clamps. Then drill the holes for the srews and tab them. Srew the fileguides together this time with the screws. Of course align them flat and true again on the granite plate, check with yout square of course. Last drill (and ream if you have a reamer) the holes for the pins.
Hey Roland, that's excellent. I 100% agree that would be better. Getting them even was a challenge and the glue threw in some variability.. I've considered getting a diamond impregnated cup for my mill.... to surface the top of these inserts.
Very cool build James. I love my Bill Behnke file guide, but didn't love the $150 bucks! I have been contemplating making another one, but lacked the motivation, even though I really need to as the carbide (believe it or not) has began to show wear. Thanks to your video and links, I can order and build a new file guide for pennies compared to ordering a new one. Thanks!
Thanks Wayne! I've heard great things about Bill's guides! I know that Kyle Royer re-surfaces his carbide file guide with his stone wheel on the surface grinder... I'm not sure how long that takes him to do, but I guess it's good to know that it's possible! I wish I had a way to do this operation....
Get a tramming set for your mill. I have one that has three positions for the indicators, so you can adjust for your vise size. Then tram your column to the bed of your vise. Apply shim stock as needed to get it trammed. I did this with my Grizzly G0761 mill and Shars 6"x7.48" vise (6" wide, 7.48" opening) and got it dead on with some shim stock. I got a packet of shim stock in different thicknesses from Amazon (before the insanity started) and have plenty left over. If I was to mount something directly on the table, I might shim that as needed to. Also, a set of DROs would make your life a LOT easier. I picked up a set from DRO Pro's (veteran owned/operated company out in Cali) that use magnetic scales. They are VERY small in dimension, so work very well with smaller (not full size/knee) mills. You just have to make the mounting hardware for the read heads as your first project. Once installed (properly) they make repeating steps easy. You can then use an edge finder to get your 0 position and simply machine to the same spot. It also helps to get a vise stop so that you can properly index pieces of the same dimension for this. There are several flavors of those available. Ranging from dirt cheap, to costing a bit. For the placement of the carbide pieces, If you machine a relief in the aluminum that includes your spacing (offset) it would make positioning easier. Have it offset a couple of thousandths so that you have the desired gap and you would be GTG. There's a couple of ways to do that (that I can think of right now). I would machine to no more than 1/2 the thickness of the carbide pieces, so they are still proud of the aluminum, Also, holding both sides (aluminum pieces) together in the vise would ensure that your holes are in the exact same position. Use your parallels to ensure you're not drilling into your bed vise. BTW, I'm not a machinist by any measure. I do this type of thing as a hobby (I have a full time job). ;)
Hey Adam, thanks for taking the time to write up your comment. I'm going to have to try some of your suggestions for sure! I have very little experience with the mill.
I really enjoy your videos as I'm started to venture into making knives myself. My reason for commenting though is to give you a tip on rigidity when milling, you're endmill is sticking out a lot further than it needs to be along with being quite long in general. To combat chatter and increase rigidity you need to run the shortest endmill you can. Also, a larger diameter endmill would help if you have one i.e. .750 diameter rather than .5 Keep up the great worn though and I'll definitely continue watching you as I learn!
Very nice little project. I would have used stainless instead of aluminium tho as theres too much give with aluminium and those holes will wear out in no time. Definately like the carbide replaceable strips tho, makes life easier not having to remak the guide over and over again. I think you can even get pre drilled ones with countersunk holes too.
I like your filming skills, this is crucial for an educational video >> I hope you make less skipped steps because your projects are interesting edit: you can get a small diamond cup and you can grind the carbide flat using your endmill
@@RedBeardOps something like that, they're inexpensive if you get them from china. this one is in the US www.ebay.com/itm/Diamond-Grinding-Cup-Wheel-4-Inch/232663938100?hash=item362bd9f434:g:0IgAAOSwG9VdBBIM
That is a great idea sir! In theory they're supposed to be a really tight friction fit. I think I got a little carried away taking them down to get them in the holes. A proper 0.2500'' reamer and hardened 0.2500'' pins would probably be the best answer...
Funny - just as I was considering suggesting a reamer bit, you talked about it yourself. With as many precise .250 holes as you require for your work, it might make sense to get one yourself, especially given that you have a milling machine, (which, one presumes, has less runout than a drill press). That way, you wouldn't have to resort to doing things like fabricating tapered pins, like you did on another build.
Good job. But just try to make it out of carbon steel instead of aluminum and to braze these carbide inserts instead of glueing. I dont't think glue is strong enough for these purpose. It can be overheated while grinding. The expansion coefficient of aluminum and carbide is different and, when heated, may cause delamination of the adhesive. Greets from Russia! :)
Thanks for the tips sir! We will find out how it lasts. I'm not expecting the system to get that hot really. Greetings from Texas! Have a great weekend
For sure. Check out the into of this video and I talk a little about your options. There are links in the description of this video that will give you my recommendation - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-VXVmgFnre-I.html
Do you have any trouble keeping the carbide on? I have two bill bienke file guides and can only get one knife out of them before the carbide pops off. I don’t over heat or over torque, and when I repair them I go through the same steps and use the same glue you did in this video. I have about given up on them.
Man, they've done a decent job, but when using with the grinder I popped one off. I think it's best if they were recessed into the aluminum. I'll probably end up buying a nice one...
@@RedBeardOps at minute 4:30 you use a cube, with 12 holes per side, and then to support the piece to make holes, Thank you! (sorry, my english is very poor)
Red Beard Ops - I’d start with a flat block, drill, then split the block and flatten the two cut sides on the mill, tap the one side and glue on the strips. I’ve been trying to think of some kind way to clamp the strips but the jig gets really big and you have to custom fit little single screw hold downs on each side.
Do you have any kind of engineering background or do you just figure out this stuff on the fly? Your attention to detail is second to none. Great work!!!
Thank you very much Steve. I am an engineer by trade, but to be honest the "schooling" I got at my father's mechanic shop growing up was probably more valuable for these projects! Have a great weekend!
I did the same with mine but I used hardened O1 for the body.. the carbide still breaks off.. if I were you with that mill l'd mill a slot for the carbide.. just my opinion.. nice video
I wonder if I could just cut a file in half and use 2 halves to make this file guide, without adding carbide blanks, because the file is already pretty hard. This would have been much easier.
I want to thank you for all that you do, not only is your work amazing but I really appreciate the humble and refreshing way you face mistakes and new challenges.thank you so much,
It is better if you started with surfacing one face of each plate, all the drilling and pins, then you can surface and square the other faces of the block assembled.
Two hours just to flatten the inserts? That time pays for the purchase of a carbide file guide from somebody like Jantz. Nevertheless, great craftsmanship, as usual. Thanks for the videos.
I was thinking the same thing. Or it doesn't matter that much when it translates into your knife making work. When I built aircraft, 5 thou was important but not sure if it's that crucial to tang fit up. It does help you sleep at night though, knowing things are square and true.
Hey Rashid, it's a checkering file. Check out the links in the description of this video - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-nk7vu2RYxvI.html
@@RedBeardOps Thanks i did fined some here and thank for all the tips let the videos come i watch all of them it help a lot 1 qest did ferro cloride work on stainless steel 😎
i know its suppose to be diy though if you are looking to make a file guide and dont already have all these tools just buy the file guide otherwise just harden some steel and and clamp em together.
