Why would anyone give this a thumbs down!?? Great job, April. I'm a female woodworker myself, albeit on a much, much smaller scale, and I find your videos articulate, to-the-point and very informative. Thank you and be blessed!
I just gave it thumbs down. Any video with the sponsorship in the middle gets an automatic thumbs down. Nobody wants to be interrupted with a salespitch for some garbage.
LOVE women that can do things themselves. That's why I married to lady I am married to for 40 yrs. We are a TEAM and that comes in handy when you have a small farm too. Thanks for the info. and the GREAT video. All Information and no Fluff or BS. Good going girl, you ROCK.
I installed the 18000 btu unit by myself. Four day project. Day 1 pour the slab. Day two hang the air handler. Day 3 hook up refrigerant lines and build the conduit box around it. Day 4 hook up electrical charge the lines check for leaks and test unit. Very impressed with results!
April I'm a DIY and im amazed of all your wonderful work on this channel keep up the great work, but AC is a very simple thing to learn especially with smart person like you all you need is a vacuum pump, a set of cheap AC gages and if you want some cheap flaring tool to cut your pipes to the desired length, and I've installed over 10 units of split air conditioning with different sizes and brands and they all share the same basic principles.
@@RobertMSmith1 did you see the price tag on the unit 🙄 to me its much cheaper to get all of them especially they all cost less than 100$ thanks to China 😂
@@spooky4e...You have to have a license to purchase refrigerant. The EPA keeps track of who went through the proper training. A supply house will not sell you refrigerant without a license and an active account.
Cut the lines, flare connections and connect the tubing , pressurize with dry nitro, check for leaks, vacuum, then open refrigerant valves. Cool DIY video!
Sorry to some to not want to spend so much for things that are pretty pedestrian just because they are setup for this specific but I do not want to. Also seems like vinyl downspouts could be used and save money. Thanks for the idea.
Honestly, this was great to see. My wife and I currently live in Japan and had to buy two units for our current home, but when we get back we were planning on installing them in the house we have stateside. Luckily, the ones here in Japan are powered from inside the house so we just have to plug them in. Great and informative video. Thank you!
Great job! Just an FYI you can unhook and move the unit without needing anything. Work in reverse and the lines are fine. I have moved units between my businesses in the past and have had no issues.
April, I’ve been watching your channel from the beginning. I can hardly believe you have almost 1 million subscribers! Your videos and the effort you put into all of them is to be envied. Thank you for all that you do for the hobby, the community and our hands-on daughters.
That shed! So nice!! - Keith Rucker happened to post a video installing a Mr. Cool unit in his shop - just went up the same day as yours. BUT - he DID have a hole saw large enough to drill the 3 1/2” hole. April! It just about kicked his butt trying to hold that thing as he drilled the holes through plywood on both inside and out. He’s a big strong guy, and it like to snap his wrists. I’m actually very glad you didn’t try to do the same! Thanks for sharing your vid, I really enjoy watching you work!
As it's Texas and glass bay door maybe consider low-e window tint. this will help on heat/sun you all have for most of the year. I worked on a high end condo unit and while working they came in with low-e glass tint immediate lowering of temp it was amazing, in the long run cheaper than electricity on A/C units. But good for all those brilliant solar radiation bright days, especially with a huge glass window like that bay door window, even so what a great little guest home. Sweet! blessings David
I have been in the hvac industry for a while. So I’ll clear up a few things that I saw in the comments. 1. Enjoy your videos and love the DIY spirt. Though you made this seem much simpler then it actually is. You have a strong mechanical ability that frankly most people don’t have. I have been installing, servicing and repairing mini splits, and VRF HVAC systems for most of my professional career. 2.There is refrigerant in the lineset, the indoor coil (evaporator) and the outdoor unit (condenser). The connections on this system have a protective fitting that when you start make the connections breaks a seal to release the refrigerant. If not done properly it will leak. This type of fitting is common on box coolers and freezer units. 3. The lineset begin coiled vertically will create what we call in the industry an oil trap. You don’t want this on a system like this (there is an exception to this rule, but not get into it on here). It will trap the oil in the lineset and cause a compressor failure as there will be no oil to lubricate the compressor. 4. I would recommend a power monitor/protector for the power coming in (your line voltage). Reason 1 mini split boards (cheaper unit are worse) hate dirty power and too high of voltage. You are in the Texas hill country or west Texas I’m guessing by the land scape. I live in Texas as well. Most generators do not produce very clean power. Just a recommendation to help you protect your equipment. 5. Not sure what the warranty is on that thing. Just know boards are not cheap for this type of equipment. Some will say just throw it out and get a new one for the cost. Go for it, or you can pay more and get a product that has a better warranty and the manufacturers actually have offices in the states and people there to support the products. Also, why throw it out when it just needs to be repaired. Good video. Just remember there is more to refrigerant flow, and ac equipment then connecting some wires and refrigerant lines. For those thinking about doing this. Please know that refrigerant if it touches your skin can cause a form of frost bite. Not going to get into the science of it, but we call them refrigerant burns. They really hurt and can blister pretty bad. So just be careful, follow whatever instructions are given. if you start it and can’t do it, just call a professional company. This isn’t painting a house. You are dealing with power, refrigerant, and many things that can cause serious harm. If you do not understand it, call in a pro. Overall April you are talented in many ways and show that with effort most things are possible for a person to do.
Hey, man thanks for your input. If I had one of these units would you recommend vacuuming out the line? Even though it says you don't have to with a DIY unit?
@@brianbevilacqua4984 , she said as the manufacturer clearly states that it comes precharged, I have seen a video of how they are manufactured and come precharged in the lines and not just the end units. Thinking you need to vacuum and charge the lines before installing them would result in as this op said, hazard to your health via a very harmful refrigerant burn. Hence why you FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS as told in them, and just connect the lines and power as she showed and then ones it is powered up with energy you then just flip it on..That simple.
I installed one of these (24k model) last fall, love it! Because its a heat pump too, it kept the garage warm the winter even in temps of 15 degrees Fahrenheit. I found the 24k to be a perfect size for a well insulated 24 x 25 garage.
Did your line set come pre charged too?? Im an ac service tech and thought that was really wierd that she was unable to cut and flare the pipe down to size because it was precharged instead of the CU being precharged.
We just put a Mr. Cool in our garage apt ourselves about the same time as you. We had electricians do the electric since it's a new build and part of the gig. It's August now and it's nasty dirty. It has an herbaceous smell. I'm now purchasing the whole cleaning system with the wacky water collection into a bucket. I'm amazed at how dirty it's gotten in such a short period of time.
I installed a Mr. Cool in my studio a couple of years ago....LOVE it! I have a 2 car detached garage that is half music studio and half workshop. I can open the door between the studio and workshop and it cools the workshop in the hot/humid SC summers.
I put one of these in my garage last year. Install was not too bad. Honestly one of the best decisions I have made. Works so well. Quiet, efficient and effective. I ended up cutting my extra long copper tubing. Although I am not sure of the validity of this but I read somewhere that looping the extra length is not the best for the system. Probably doesn’t really matter.
Great job, looks awesome and love that shed! That’s the nicest ‘shed’ I’ve ever seen to just put ‘stuff’. The inspector bought into that! Don’t forget to strap down the electrical at least 12” from any connector. Great job!
Consider using nylog blue on the connections to prevent possible leaks. Also, worth mentioning that the passthrough hole should be angled downwards a bit so the condensate drains ok. Great video. Keep em coming.
Yamil Hernandez These unit have very fine strainers in them. So be careful with the nylong. If it gets inside the system it will cause a restriction. If a manufacturer requests the unit back and they cut it open and see that you as the installer caused the restriction. No help from them. Every manufacturer of hvac equipment will fight that fight. Just a recommendation. By no means gospel.
Ramy howdy. I don’t believe this to be the case. I have contacted mr. cool directly and will report back what they reply. I will also contact the makers of nylog.
You’re a very capable young lady who really knows what is what. Excellent video with no wasted words and your smile makes it way better, overall. Two thumbs up!
You should block that metal cover where the line set comes out at the end with some small wire to prevent mice or rats getting into your living space. You did a nice job.
Great job, April. Excellent install video showing off your carpentry, A/C and electrical skills. Absolutely beautiful shed. Inspiring. Keep up the great work.
Great Job on your install. Just a few points, 1)The fused or not fused quick disconnect outside by the condensing unit needs to be within sight & only so far from the condenser. Check your local Laws Ideally I have always installed mine right above and to the left or right depending on where it would go into the electrical panel on the condensing unit. 2)The condensate drain line(tube) has to be in the lowest point as it goes through the wall to the outside. Plus I would expect you to have to clean that drain out every time a bug decides to make it a home! Which will be often. So ideally they terminate above the ground or extended out just beyond the slab of the house, again above the ground. Or if into a sewer type drain(usually under the sink) there is a whole set of codes to follow. 3)Please establish MORE electical protection(follow codes laid out by your State/County/City) to protect you or anyone that would be using that "tiny home." Also if you are going to run it off of a generator or solar panel as the 3 things that kill an HVAC system are low voltage(or fluctuating voltage), dirt, starting and stopping too soon, so again install more protection up to code! Yes putting that condensing unit where it could breathe and Not against the wall as originally showing in your install was good. Ideally you would have a slab or pad just for the condensing unit that you would anchor with lag bolts. Oh and you might want to hang the extra tubing as that looked like flex tubing NOT copper tubing so I would anchor it and zip tie it so as to stop vibration and oil traps and hide it. No you don't have to worry too much about shortening the line as it was engineered from the Factory with the line set it has. Yes the shorter the better for squeezing out more efficiency but you are within Factory Limits. Yes I was a Refrigeration/HVAC Contractor at an earlier time. Now I am too old. Just Saying
Mr cool has since revamped the install to eliminate the awkwardness of fishing a 25 ft line set thru the wall by just including a separate sealed line set on Gen 3 models. They also offer a 16 ft linseed to reduce the need for excessive coiling. Gen3 units boost SEER rating to 20-22 from 16. One of the disadvantages of being an early adopter but you guys buying now have it pretty good.
I have a mini-split in the upstairs bedroom of my condo. The old AC unit ducts going into this room were too small, so this room never got cooled off. My AC bill was 200-300 per month for this two bedroom 850 SF condo. Then I put the mini split in and WOW. It cools the entire condo and I rarely have to turn the old AC unit on. My electric bill in the summer is never more than $60 . I keep my room at 68 degrees and am happy as can be!
Mr. Cool is not the only diy unit available. You can shorten the lines if you had a flange set(freon is in the compressor and not the line set). You need to vacuum down the lines on any A/C install. Living in Texas that is a must. Those lines will corrode from the inside out.
caseyne According to the manufacturer, that’s not true. From MrCool’s product description... “Precharged 410 Quick Connect Lineset. The included 25′ pre-charged lineset allows you to install this innovative ductless system without special tools, equipment, or training.” From MrCool’s blog... “We here at MRCOOL did not invent pre-charged line sets. They’ve been around for years, but were mainly confined to the modular and mobile home market. That might be one reason why so many people have not heard of them. Don’t worry! Pre-charged line set technology proved itself years ago. Basically, all we’re doing is applying them in an innovative way.” In response to a customer’s question about shortening the lineset... “MR COOL says: January 28, 2019 at 9:14 am On the DIY unit, the lines come charged, so you cannot cut or modify them without professional training and equipment.”
You will pay one time for experience for tools and for knowledges....or you can pay twice for your greed. This system can be cost $800-900...+$800 for installation. I don't know where did you get the price $5000
Hi! I realize that you made this video five years ago, but I just have to comment! I'm an American woman who's lived in Italy for 27 years now and when I left the United States, these types of ac units didn't exist there. Being from New Orleans, I thought I knew everything about air conditioning! 😂 Anyway, in Italy, this is the only type of ac unit there is, except for the super rare central air and heating that you might find in an apartment building or home built within the past twenty years or so. We have only Asian brands here. Samsung, Mitsubishi, Daikin, etc. I had a Daikin until exactly two weeks ago. It was only three years old and the fan of the outdoor unit just quit one day. I've just bought a new Mitsubishi and had it installed. The cost of a 12,000btu, single split is 600 euro ($666)and installation is between 350 and 450 euro ($388 to $499). My apartment is only 40 sq meters, so the 12,000 btu can even make me freeze in here!! It works as a heater too, which is great because my building was literally built during the time of Mussolini, so you can imagine how awful the old radiators are! I have no earthly idea why your video popped up on my feed, because I didn't search anything about air conditioning, anywhere on my phone, but I'm really glad it did! As an older woman who couldn't even use a hammer and nails when I was younger, I'm so impressed with your ability to do things like this for yourself!! I envy you for your energy and intelligence too!! The reason why I wrote was to tell you that, but also to tell you about the air conditioning experience in Italy. Again, I had no idea that this kind of ac unit even exists in the US now!! Thanks very much for your patience if you were able to get through this long comment!! Thanks for showing me how I could've saved a lot of money too!! Strangely enough, I really enjoyed watching this!! Ciao!! 🙂🙋🏻♀️ 💯💯💯💥 PS - when my Daikin unit broke, it was the third week of August and the entire country of Italy was on holiday at the beach. No installers could be found anywhere and the temperature in Milano was in the upper 90s! One more reason why I wish I were young enough to do this myself, like you did!! 🥵
NEVER coil the extra line set in a vertical loop, it will cause an oil trap that will hold the compressor oil and can damage the compressor. Coil must be looped horizontally to allow the oil to easier return to the compressor.
I put one of them in down in Kentucky in a attic remodel and it keeps it super cold up there during the summer it truly is an amazing air conditioner I would highly recommend it to anyone
I recommend you coil the lineset in the alcove where your fuse box is located. That way it is not restricting airflow in the back of the unit. It's too bad you didn't make a hole for the lineset to go thru the wall where the fuse box is.
Ok, I have a lot of comments. Here in Greece, mini splits is the norm. Even if you try, you won't find a house without at least one, that being said, I have a bit of experience in these things. Let's go to the comments. All mini splits come with the refrigerant pre-charged. All the mini splits have that refrigerant stored in the outside unit as it is more robust than the inside. It really shocked me that yours has it in the inside unit. Second (and most important comment) is that having such a long coil of refrigerant lines between the indoor and outdoor unit, means GREAT losses in performance. Trust me, been there. Bring a professional and cut the lines to the minimum length that serves your needs. And if you bring a professional to shorten the lines, tell him to empty the lines with a vacuum pump before charging it again. Mini splits are very sensitive to moisture in the atmosphere and by leaving (even a little bit of) air inside the refrigerant loop, you drop the AC's performance and you are causing it's insides to rot that much quicker due to the moisture. To sum up, remember two important things for installing mini splits, keep the refrigerant lines as short as possible and empty the lines with a vacuum pump to ensure no moisture gets trapped inside. Other than that, greeting from Greece, love your videos and I watch you all the time.
She paid maybe $800 dollars for that unit. It's cheap and DYI. Everything you've said is good advice but will balloon the cost of the project to double or triple. On top of that, most licensed installers of these units will not touch the DYI Mr. Cool version in the United States.
@@plasmac9 Ok, I certainly don't know how things work in the US, but the things I recommended to do, in Greece you can do them for les than 100$. Maybe even 50 if you do a little search. That's why I made these comments. Plus, 800$ are not considered cheap in Greece, so.....
Your first mistake was when you said "Trust me " . Mr Cool mini's are precharge @ the factory and no service call is need as long as you follow the directions . Period
@@RobertMSmith1 I don't believe he said a service call was needed, he pointed out that not making the changes would result in a less powerful AC. Making the changes would result in a more efficient AC. The trust me was based on experience 'trust me I've been there' is a valid expression to indicate experience, so I don't see how it would be a mistake in this context.
i dont know about mini splits but the refrigerant line is way to long. just because she bought the cheap system doesn't mean she has to warm or cool area around the shed.
I have never installed a Mr. Cool, however you main want to double check with your installation manual as you typically do not want to coil a line sets vertically as it causes oil traps. It’s possible Mr. Cool allows this, but worth checking before burning up a compressor. I know that mfg’s such as LG, Daikin and Mitsubishi do not allow this.
Mini splits are the norm in Spain where I live off grid now and most houses use them. For some DIY models there is a choice of refrigerant line length. Yours is very long and this will make the unit very inefficient. Of course it also depends on the insulation your shed has but with so much glass that unit will be working overtime! Great vid as usual April! Love everything you do! Come visit Spain and bring your tools!
Line length in the sense has very little to no effect in efficiency rating, shortening it would just add hundreds to the original cost of the unit, its fine to eave the 20 something foot long line as is seeing it is precharged, messing with it yourself is a big bill from a service tech willing to touch these DIY units. As she said per the instructions/manual that once you put it on you will need to make a service call when you disconnect the line just to recharge it.
Perfect time to see the full install on this thanks April! It looks like a great unit and even thou it's snowing in Chicago today - haha - the heat is right around the corner and I need that humidity control for finishing! :)
What a lovely woman :) and yes there is refrigerant in both outside an inside units. All you do is connect them. No need of a vacuum. The lines are insulated so the loss of efficiency is minimum.
Great Job . You are right sometimes the Hvac companies don't wannna sell the unlicensed person, I used a 4" down spout or leader I purchased from home depot.
I work for a wholesale company that sells ductless units. One of the most important things that you have overlooked is a surge protector. That condenser has 3 computer boards in it and if it takes a power surge, say from a generator coming on or lightning, you will probably need to repair that unit. Also, if you bought that unit online when you try to warranty a part you will have to go through the online company for the warranty, unless you can find a very nice local mechanic willing to help you out.
Of all the things that I could add it might be cool if you showed how to properly tighten a flare fitting. This is the bane of installing these things. The flare fittings have to be tightened properly. Great video
Great video April. Tip 1, installing my AC, it was said to drill the hole from the inside to the outside in a small angle downwards. This way water will not enter the building, and any water present, will flow to the outside. Tip 2, Leave a space (30 cm or 12 inches) behind the outside unit, so it can draw cool(er) air. Ideal would be to place the outside unit so, that you need the whole line and don't have to store the extra behind thd unit. Tip 3, If possible place the outside so that it has shadow on the hottest time of the day. This makes the unit more efficient and cheaper (less power costs). Tip 4, Check with soapwater your connections for leaks (no bubbles). Tip 5, check manual, with some units you need to ooen the lines with an allen key (on outside unit).
Guust....Tip 2 - she used the whole line set. It was just curled up. The system does not know or care about the difference as long as the line set is insulated (as it is). Tip 3 - the condensing unit could care less if it is in the sun. It uses a fan to get rid of the indoor heat through the condensing coil. The compressor and fan draw the same amperage in the sun as well as in the shade. Shade has nothing to do with power cost.
@@paulcopeland9035 Tip 2 Curled up lines behind the unit prevent airflow, that's why I said, use the whole line. To leave the space behind the unit free. Tip 3 If the outside unit is in the sun, the temperature of the air around it is higher. The unit looses heat by blowing air, with a fan, over the radiator. The bigger the difference between the radiator and outside air, the better the efficiency and thus less power and lees power is needed.
You might want to go to the MR Cool website, all their units come with leak detectors,using the soapy water method not required to find any leaks to look for where it is when the sensor alerts you.
Have you had any problems with this unit? I'm looking to get one for the master bedroom of my house and another one for my mancave. You done a great job. Thanks for sharing.
@@BoopSnoot We're talking about a 120 sq ft shed with an efficient mini-split system that's meant to cool 500 sq ft or more, so it would not take a "significant battery system" to cool that small of a footprint. A 100Ah deep cycle solar battery would absolutely be able to power the unit for the limited use a guest would put it through. In addition, a solar battery like that is rated for at least 5 years of life under heavy use (i.e. deep discharges of at least 50%), so for sporadic use, the battery would last decades before needing to be disposed/replaced.
Excellent video April.I use PVC pipe (suitable diameter) cut in half or less depending on what I'm trying to hide, then pilot screw it to the walls and caulk to hide any imperfections. That always works and I don't have to purchase anything special or kiss some wholesalers butt for a purchase. Just some movie magic. Well done April. Thank you for the security tip.
How is the mini split working now? Are you still running it off a generator? Do you think it can run by a dedicated 30 amp outdoor plug from time to time also?
Great video and great job keep up the great DIY job you are doing. The only thing that need clarification are the electrical connections maybe a close up would be helpful
@@henrison wat? If you dont even have to time to install something like this (which is under 3 hours. ) Ie you dont have 3 hours to spare in your life, then you are doing life wrong.
The outside unit come over charged to fill the supplied line. If you shorten the line and re-flare the end to purge all you have to do is attach to the compressor and open the valve until the gas comes out the other end, close the valve and put the caps back on for each tube, no vacuum needed the system has a dryer built in. Run the tubing remove the caps and connect then open the valve and you are good, since the system is designed for the full length there will be sufficient gas. Most of the units sold can be DYI installed.
You may want to listen to when she mentions (per the manufacturing company states on their website) as seeing the lines themselves are precharged would result in freezer burn which can be deadly and needing to call in a tech who knows what they are doing to shorten the line. That much extra line is standard for those needing that much length, IMO they really should offer 15 foot as well for those not needing that extra length, in which case the length has little to no effect on ac efficiency either.
Hi April..... It would be beneficial for you to put some solar reflective film on your garage door/glass panes, it will keep it a lot cooler and less work for the A/C......Keep up the great vids.
Get a garden hose wall hanger thing and install it above the unit to keep the lines away from the heat exchange. They look like a V and you just attach with screws.
A friend of mine just installed similar unit. Only issue I would point out is that it doesn’t have a fresh air intake. Old fashioned wall unit will allow for either fresh air or recirculate. Both room size and lack of wall and ceiling insulation should be taken into consideration when sizing. Friends seems to struggle to adequately cool space.
I'm currently working on installing all of my Mr Cool air handlers. Only thing I would add is that you could have put your hole on the right side and just let the stub pieces go through the hole and made your lineset and drain line connections outside instead of trying to put all of the 25 ft. pieces through the hole. If you would have had the template it would have showed you where this hole is located on the right hand side.
I just bought a 12btu window ac/heater for my man cave / 3 car garage but I have not install it yet. Looking at Mr cool unit now. Garage is fully insulated about 620 sq ft with 8 ceiling ft high. I have pool table and gym in there😁 I live in Clovis California with a zone 9b or 9 I think
Excellent video. I will try this mini split for sure. Just in time for the oppressive heat we get where I live. Nice work as always!! BTW, So glad your video has no music. DIY videos with music are intolerable for me! All too many DIY videos by OTHER youtubers think they are making music videos rather than DIY learning vids. I hate that!!
I'm concerned you are restricting to much air flow in the outdoor unit by putting it so close to the building and coiling up the connections to the inside unit.
On the wiring looks like you crossed the Neutral - black and Line - Red. on the Liquid Tight Flexable Conduit to the terminal block. Did you vac out the lines before you released the charge?
Every set of instructions I have ever seen tells you to cut the outside hole lower than the inside hole to allow for a downward pitch in the condensate drain line.
Such an amazing information you shared I appreciate but I have a question that why you through the whole long length of pipes from indoor to outdoor??? I think it could be more easier if you through pipes in
Hi April Wilkerson, how are you? I am a technician in air conditioning in Brazil. Congratulations on the installation of air, but I did not see in the video you make the vacuum in the machine. ???
Hi great work. I just had an estimate to have one head mini split. I was told I would need some electrical work to connect the power. I was given a price of 5300 does that seem a lot? When I priced the units for one head is around 1400.00. That means the rest is labor. Does that seem like a lot?
I wonder if Mr. Cool could find it in their economics to sell variable length line sets? 10'-15'-20, DIY is awesome! even better if the final solution makes it hard to tell.
@Ryan Carlen Yeah but these do work as DIY's, so your opinion isn't really worth much. Do you all think the Mr. Cool was designed by a guy living under a bridge, in a box, who can't read or write?
It's from Family Handyman Magazine. It was called the "Game Day Shed." I'm surprised she didn't say where she got the design from. See it here: www.familyhandyman.com/sheds/how-to-build-a-game-day-shed/
Thank you! I just finished installing a 24k 3rd gen Mr. Cool in my workshop yesterday, and this video helped a lot. I would also recommend people check out Abom79's longer video for the extra details. And the manufacturer video is good too, but it's too fast and doesn't really show you enough information. What I appreciated about this video in particular was the problem of having the air blower mounting holes only go into one stud, and not properly distanced for the next stud. I'm grateful this video existed as a resource.
Good job, should’ve cut the lines and re flared them. I also didn’t see the pressure testing and vacuuming process down to the proper micron level (to educate those who want to do their own) before releasing the refrigerant thru the system. I am a diyer but also in the Hvac trade and a lot of people try to install their own units not knowing it’s a lot more than just wrenching it together.
Thx u sir n I belive u do need to explain everything maybe not to a t but explain it I'm a electrician well good point my friend except for the other dude fool a dummy
The terrain and trees look a lot like what I see when I'm out around Helotes and Bandera, beautiful hill country and scenery, but tough land to build on. Great video.
@@WRAND2208 they usually are, but can last much longer if protected from rain and snow. Keep in mind that they need plenty of airflow to dissipate heat !!
Great video April. In Sweden it's not allowed to install those on your own. I don't understand that when it's so simply done. Have an amazing weekend, Andreas 🇸🇪
Also people like to steal those things. AC units in general are stolen at a high rate in Texas. Make it as hard as possible for the thieves. You should also lock down your generator when you get it.
Why did you feed the line set from the inside out? When you install the inside unit, the connections on the back come through so you can connect the line set from the outside. Nice video though!
Nice, just a single 15A 120V breaker for that unit. For some reason I just assumed they were all 240V. edit (again) Oh, shoot, I can't find whether this unit does heating or not, which makes me think it doesn't do heating. Darn!
They sell different units, some offer heat, but the one she linked to on Amazon, in the Q&A section, indicates it does heat but you may have to contact the company to be sure...
It will. Also I have used pioneer systems from high seer. A little more involved but still ez to do and they are cheeper. Overall better value if you dont Mind vacuuming your own lines
@@Ironrodpower....The 410A refrigerant requires a licensed tech to do the charging. This unit gets around that by having the line set and the condensing unit precharged. DIY.
Great video. I have one comment. The way you installed your line set, it probably won’t drain out the condensate adequately. It is gravity flow so the drain needs to go downhill and should have been placed on your right side and slanting downward. I am only telling you because I mad that mistake before and filled my wall with water.
That unit needs all the air flow in the back, I recommend you to have a professional to cut the Excess tubing.....that is Hot Air that touches your excess tubing.....We uses does units in Central America, everywhere.
