Tip for adding fluid, use a moderate sized tube, approximately 2-3 ft in length. Must be long enough to run from dipstick/filler port to antenna. Caution: be sure to route tubing clear of hot exhaust/catalytic converter area. Insert one end into the filler port, the other to the end to a medium size funnel. Use wire/zip tie to attach the funnel the vehicles antenna - which keeps at perfect angle/height so gravity is on your side. Place protective cloth towel around funnel area to protect painted surfaces against inadvertent ATF splashes. Carefully pour ATF into the funnel (as needed) to fill transmission. Stop, measure as required. Once complete, carefully remove tubing making sure not to spill ATF on painted surfaces. No pumps or expensive devices required - work smarter, NOT harder. Hope this is helps you and others. PS. I curse FORD for removing the dipstick/filler port from under the hood. A cheap cost cutting move to passively discourage owners from properly maintaining vehicles. I love the reference in owner's manual which states, "transmission fluid must be checked by dealer." Ha! Check this out if you want to install your own engine compartment dipstick. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-lw0iE8WEau0.html
User One awesome information! I watched the video and I’m considering adding the dipstick and the pan. I would just measure the level, let the engine cool, then install since I wouldn’t be doing it on a lift. The chances of me getting burned by the cat are very high. Thanks
Thanks for the video. Just a little FYI. With thin sheet metal pans and other covers such as this, it’s best practice to torque starting in the middle and working crisscross outwards to the ends. Usually doesn’t matter as long as you’re careful it should be ok, but they can warp a little if you’re not careful. Good work!
Yep. Totally agree with Ford tech's recommendations. Trans fluid is relatively cheap compared to transmission work. The Ford recommended change interval is because they want to sell you another truck.
That's right. They want you going to the dealer and getting a new truck ever 100k miles. Ford Tech releases a new video that he explains in more detail the metal contamination in the 6R80 and the effects. I'll leave the link below. Don't forget to subscribe. I got more stuff coming out on the truck. Thanks. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-4Ng3HJdyyoM.html
Good video Glad to see more and more owners taking a stance at maintaining vehicle ownership. I’ve been doing my own maintenance for 20 years and all of our family vehicles easily go over 300k miles before even considering upgrading or replacing.
I'm surprised he got 6+ quarts into the tranny with the engine off. In my experience you can usually get about 3 to 3.5 quarts into the 6R80 before it starts spewing out... starting the engine then allows you to add more fluid until you reach the correct level.
I drop my pain had to change out lead frame that was 9 quarts to fill 165 k may been at 170 and the magnet was almost clean very lil Metallic/ metal shavings. Also a good message to pass on is that this trans can never be flushed there and expansion spring valve that opens up at or around 220 then allows fluid to pass back into pan if there no fluid in the Tran it burn it up trying to get the trans to that 200 plus to open check valve. I fixed my hard down shift but next change I’ll be dropping the valve body again and I’m changing out the valves on the lead frame I’ll be at 200 k then. 2012 platinum 4x4. Great video
Hey Joey. Thanks for the insight. You're absolutely right about trying to flush the 6R80. It's just a waste of expensive trans fluid, as it doesn't open up and you can't change the whole fluid. Ford Tech Makuloco released a very nice video on replacing the lead frame. Go check it out. I don't think you need to change all the solenoids when you change the lead frame though. They're expensive. I recently posted a video on a hard downshift from 5th to 4th. But in my case it was just the PCM/TCM that needed to be updated and it wasn't the A clutch solenoid.
DCF GARAGE My hard down shift was solved once lead frame was replaced. Only issue no I’d the change from 3-4 it just lil ruff no slipping I have a nice modus I’m gonna do some driving see what it come up with while hook up. Keep up the page I love learning about these trucks as I go since I own one
Great video brother. Thanks for the step by step advice. Just purchased a used 2016 f150 5.0 with 72k miles. I don't know the history of service or how the truck was used. I wanted to do a transmission fluid and filter change, but im worried if it hasn't been serviced before if it's too late, with 72k miles? I know mechanics do not recommend a complete flush with high miles, but what about a change like you did? Thanks so much!
Thank you for the video and information. I have a 2011 Expedition with the 5.4 Triton (I know..) I bough with about 78k miles. I changed the fluid/filter and found it to be brown (not the worst thing I'm finding out with Mercon LV) and was happy to see apparently someone had ignored the direction of Ford engineers and changed the fluid before. I used a transfer type grease gun which helped get out about 1 gallon of fluid. After dropping the pan it was still a mess though with plenty of fluid spilling. I think I ultimately took out a little over 2 gallons? I did spill some new fluid during the refill and added 7+ quarts with the engine still running. Still not comfortable with the reading on the dipstick?? I also changed the rear differential fluid. The 8 mm bolts blocked by the exhaust are a pain. I had to use a small box end wrench to reach them. The Expedition definitely shifts much better and feels a lot faster and smoother.
@@dcfgarage I do have a question. I know on the newer Ford's the option is there to read the transmission temperature. On my base 2011 Expedition I don't have the option. Any ideas how long to drive around in order to get the transmissions thermostat switch to open and get the temperature up?
You got so in depth with dropping the pan for peace of mind, and didn't put in a new $18 filter. That's about as pointless as changing the engine oil and reusing the oil filter
Since you're only getting about half the fluid out, it may be an idea to do this procedure every 30K miles... which would be the equivalent to doing a full flush every 60K.
I asked my self the same question. Then I remembered that I will also have to remove the pan at 60k miles. And that I would always remove the pan to clean it and clean the magnet. So not having the drain is just a small inconvenience.
Good idea. I’m getting ready to do this on my truck so I picked up a drain plug to install on the pan. Especially since I hear you don’t need to replace the filter every time.
Do you know much on doing a full flush, meaning all the lines, the torque converter, as well as everything in the pan....or a complete change? Not sure if it's possible as a DIY, or if you'd have to take it to a shop? Wondering how the procedure works too, in would they drop the pan first, or do it last? Perhaps having a pan with a drain plug would be needed for that as well?
follow FordTech Makuloco. He's worked for ford and opened his own shop and he says that trying to do a flush on a F150 is just waste of fluid and money, as you still will not be able to get all of the fluid out because of some temperature bypasses.
There is a temp bypass so fluid needs to be hotter to do the flush But if you have it set up you can flush it while it’s hot and change filter last or flush fluid change Filter then add fluid and heat up trans and flush another 10 quarts through. I have 3 6r80 transmissions and this is the way I do it. I also use a funnel and clear tubing from Home Depot and fill trans from passenger tire area to not have to use a pump. A vacuum pump helps to empty pan before you drop it as well.
I have a 2015 Mustang GT with 39,000 miles I open the radiator every fall and replace the coolant that drains out with new pre-mixed coolant. I plan on replacing the differential fluid and my auto trans fluid by using the same procedure as you. A flush is not necessary if you drop the transmission pan and replace the 6.5 quarts every other year. You can hold off on replacing the transmission filter but you should definitely clean the magnets and pan every time.
Did you re check fluid level after some time or miles? My trk also came from 5 years in Ontario CA. The sand in the underbody was insane. I power washed underside good but still find sand.
OOPSiDiditAgain I did. I was following FordTechMakuloco’s recommendation to do a pan drop, no filter at 30k after break in. And another change at 60k and then I’ll do the filter.
In my opinion, changing the oil after break in should involve changing the filter as well. The main purpose is to get rid of the shavings from break-in. Logically you would expect the shavings to be in the oil, magnet and filter. Then I would change the oil every 50,000 miles if not regularly towing. 35,000 miles if significantly towing. Change the filter every 100k miles after the first time. I also believe in preventative maintenance. Great video.
Im not trying to be an A hole, but if I was you I will change the filter too, after all this I will not reuse old one at all lol, and FYI guys please never never follow Ford Maintenance Interval, you will ruin your truck, because Ford want you to buy another one