DIY fix for replacing rear brakes - Honda Accord 

This is the best video I've seen for doing brakes. Great work good sir! Remarkable camera work, detail, and explanation. I followed this and was able to change my calipers, pads, rotors on my 05 Accord. Some tips I had for anyone reading comments about things not exactly in this video: 1. When installing the new pads, I applied a light coat of anti-seize on the retainer clips and on the tips of the pads where they sit in the clips. This helps to prevent a pad from get stuck on the clip during normal break operation (which happened to one of my old pads). 2. I applied the supplied high temperature grease that came with the brake pads on the back of the shims. I also took off the shims and on the back plate of the brake pad I put a little CRC anti-squeal solution I had. 3. Someone else made note of this in the comments but the rear caliper pistons have to seat properly on the inner pads, i.e. you need to make sure the raise bump on the inner pad shim is sitting in the criss-cross section of the piston. From reading other comments and what the author of this video correctly said, the criss cross section had to be at 12, 3, 6, and 9'o clock positions relative to the caliper and then mine were able to seat. 4. When you take the old rotor off, it's not a bad idea to get a wire brush or sandpaper and just smooth out any bumps or rust that have built up over time on the wheel hub. You don't need to go crazy with it, but it just helps to ensure the new rotor sits on your hub as flat as possible. Just my tips and personal suggestions; I'm not a car mechanic.

I swear that hand impact tool is the greatest invention ever... really saves you from a huge head ache

EXCELLENT VIDEO. This was very helpful. Thanks for doing it. The camera work, the narration and explanations were exactly what I needed.

Thank you for such a great step-by-step demonstration, I took my 2003 Honda Accord in for new tires and the auto shop wanted to charge me $300.00 to do my rear breaks, I've done rear breaks a few times but never had to replace a rear caliper...until now, my driver side caliper seize on me and would not turn or decompress. Save lots of $$ thanks to your video.

I'm currently waiting for the last parts so I can do that on my 1991 Accord because it's mostly only rust left of the brakes. Thanks for the video!

Great close up shots of what you're doing and also verbal explanation.

This is a very good video as there are not many videos showing the step by step replacement of rear calipers on the 7th generation accord. There are two points I would like to mention. First make sure that the cross lines of the caliper piston are aligned in the12 o'clock, 3, 6, 9 position. It is important to do this so that the inner pads are properly seated on to the piston. There are two small studs on the back of those pads that must be lines up. The second is that removing the brake cable retaining clip can be nasty. There can be rust holding the clip and cable in the bracket. You need to soak it with liquid wrench and brush it with a wire brush to help loosen the clip and then cable from the bracket. Hope this is helpful.

Great video! I just paid TWO garages to replace brakes and rotors and NEITHER ONE did anything but the shoes. They probably couldn't get the small screws out and just didn't tell me. But they also failed to reduce my bill. When I took the tires off and saw what they had done (or not done) - rotors all crispy and flaky and grinding - I decided I was going to do all four by myself, do the calipers and bleed the system, AND repair wheel rim rust on the underside while the wheels were off. Total cost was $400 and a little elbow grease for a 65 y/o woman with no brake experience. If I can do it first time out, so can anyone. My actual cost was higher because without neighbors or family, or a garage, I had to buy a floor jack and jack stands and a few other tools like torque and breaker bars and the Honda piston compression adapter. but the brake supplies without all that came to roughly $400 for all four wheels. It went well. :D Oh, and while I had the wheels off, I [carefully] cleaned the ABS sensor and sprocket of dried road debris and metal shavings, and replaced brake hoses on all four, and did a suspension check for future problems. I also applied rust converter and barely smeared anti seize to key areas (like rotor screws and under caliper shims) to make the job easier next time. Trust me, you can do it for less than $1300 as was said in the video, and with a breaker bar in the country's 'road salt and rust belt', the job was very manageable. Because I was learning and there's an integrated parking brake in the back, it took me a couple hours, but every wheel I did, it got more efficient so the front brakes/rotors/calipers/brake lines, front end inspection, rubber boot revitalizing, ABS cleaning was about 30 minutes per wheel well. I'm never taking my brake jobs to a shop again.

Nicely done. I'm actually relaxing, enjoying beer, after my "replace the rear pads" job turned into "replace seized rear passenger caliper and pads", too. I did my job then found your video. It was relaxing to watch you go through it. Regarding your savings on the DIY - absolutely every consumer with a tool box should know and understand brakes. They are easy to deal with, and, increasingly, the parts are really cheap. What I did today would have cost me $400 or $500 without my basic skills. Instead, it was $100 in parts and 30 minutes. Good video!

Five stars. The audio, visualsFive Stars - The audio, visual, troubleshooting, and comments were right on. I found your comments to be valuable insight for me since it been a while since I worked on my car. Can’t wait to get started. Thanks for sharing

Very good video. I used many of your points when I did the complete job today on my 1995 Honda Accord. Thanks for the effort putting on such a detailed video

This is an excellent video!!! I will add this to save you time: I used a piece of rubber hose to push inside of the brake banjo fitting to stop the fluid from leaking out; 1/4 inch ID about 2 inches long. I used a digital caliper to measure the O.D. of the hose after measuring the banjo fitting. The hose needs to be slightly larger than the fittings I.D. to enable it to fit tightly. Taper the end of the tubing a little on your bench grinder to make it easier to push it into the fitting. [This: thanks to another RU-vid video]

Excellent video showed everything , loved THE INCLUSION OF THE TORQUE SPECS.

Thank you for doing this video. This is the best video by far showing how to use the impact driver correctly. I did strip my screws when replacing the front rotors and had to drill them out. That was an experience for sure! Bought a set of the impact driver and it should make my life much easier when it is time to replace the rear rotor.

you are awesome man. Thank you for being clear and concise and showing us all your expertise.

Nice video. At 19:22, parking brake wire is secured by a c-clamp to caliper bracket. It comes out using a large flathead screwdriver. Then the trick to remove parking wire from bracket is first to make it loose by opening the other 12mm securing bolt and then pull wire towards rear and then slide it out of L shaped caliper bracket opening.

What a great video you put out. Step by step, clear and easy to follow.. I used yours after watching a bunch of other ones out there. Thank you again 👍👍

EXCELLENT VIDEO! VERY detailed and a complete job, not just replacing the pad, as well how get stubborn screws out! THANKS! Also, I couldn't help but to say that your dad must have raised you well!

Thank you for the tutorial, I learned a lot. I just finished doing my rear brakes on my 2004 Accord.

Great job, great presentation throughout. Thank you!

Thank you very much for this video. It was extremely helpful. I was very confident I could do the job after watching it.

I replaced mine both front and rear breaks as well rotors ..Good job sir!

Your alloy wheels look great; mine are all exfoliating on a Honda Accord 2004.

Excellent job. very easy to follow, didn't seem to rushed or too long.. bummer about the lack of bleeding video, as your process is very good.

Your video was awesome I could not have done it without that I really appreciate you taking the time to make this video

So you used the c clamp BEFORE taking off the caliper WOW VERY SMART. Im literally sitting here waiting for an uber to go buy a Lisle disc brake tool so i can push my piston back. Wish i would of watched this video before i took my caliper off. But hey now i know, thanks!

nice and clear video ..thank u so much 😊...i did my self after watching this vedio 🤝🙏👍 great job done by u man

Thanks for the video. It really helped me (and saved a lot of time trying to figure things out.) I've already made comments about the use of JIS bits on the rotor and I would like to make another suggestion. If you want to keep the rotors, instead of pounding on them, there are two screw holes with threads in them (not the countersunk ones that have the screws.) They are 8mm x 1.25 thread and I used one inch long bolts to safely and easily remove the rotor. Just screw them in (evenly) ...it's kind of self-explanitory.

Thanks going to replace my brakes with power stop caliper and rotors on my 2000 accord.

Great video, thanks for posting. I have the same job tomorrow and I'm sure my day will be easier.

Great, detailed video. Thank you! I have to do almost the same as I (still) have the same car. Parking brake on rear left wheel stopped 'braking' so have to replace complete caliper. Just for fun (and safety) I will do both rear caliper replacements. Unfortunately Canadian prices are NOT as friendly as US$. Caliper (Raybestos) are about $120 (incl. tax), free shipping. Pads go for $25.

Outstanding job, great delivery. I subscribed today and look forward to more great videos.

Great video, one thing I would add is that unlike the front calipers, the rear calipers need to be turned clockwise to compress them and the groves left at the North east south west position if you didn’t buy new calipers. And I’ve heard before to put grease in between the retainer and the caliper to make it hydrophobic and respell any water that might make its way there and prevent rust.

men you are so good thank you very much for the video.

Awesome video, as usual. Thanks, and I hope someone who gets a ridiculous quote from a stealership sees this video and realizes a similar savings.

Quit messing up your Phillips head retention screws. Usually people don't even replace them... they just throw them away. But if you're like me, you want everything back like it was or better - so... Please NOTE that these screws aren't actually Phillips at all, but JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) and don't properly fit a PH screwdriver. These are a size #3 and you can get one for about $14. It's also an impact driver and IT WORKS! Try this... a "VESSEL - 980 Series P.3" Mine came in about two days. FANTASTIC! - ps - If you live in USA order it from here. Most are offered from Japan and shipping will definitely not be within two days! - If you already have an impact driver you can get just the bits for about 2 - 4 bucks.

Thats a twist in type piston on that caliper

nice video. I have the same car in which I recently replaced the rear rotors and pads. Just discovered last night that the left rear is dragging quite a bit. Looks like I'll be tackling the calipers this weekend! P.S. I also have a Cavalier! Great dogs! I guess we share more than our taste in cars! haha

Fabulous video. Really informative and a joy to watch. Thanks

Stick a TR 418 valve stem through that banjo bolt and leaking brake fluid solved. I used to suspend the hose (like you did) or crimp the hose closed till someone informed me of the idea with the valve stem.. Just another item I added to my brake repair arson.

The manual recommends you put it in reverse when parked. I noticed you put it in 2nd. In most cases it doesn't matter especially if you're on flat ground and you have the parking brake set. But if your parking brake didn't work and you park on a hill then you need to put it in reverse.

Extremely well done video! Why did you skip the bleeding portion? I wish you had shown it. For the record, I don't even have this model but your narration and the videography made me watch it all the way through.

i am hoping i don't have to do rear brakes or if so, don't have to replace calipers. But i am very amazed about the $ savings, good job!

Excellent video... Thanks

Awesome video! Subscribed

Great informative video. I too have a seized rear caliper on the drivers side of my 07 Accord. I was going to have my local Midas shop do the job, but after watching your video, I'm going to tackle the replacement with a buddy. Thanks so much for the clear camera shots at all the different angles. I checked the set screws on the rotor and mine aren't rusted at all. Could I get away with using a PH3 bit and my drill to remove it without damaging the head of the screws?

Excelent tech advise and illustration

Nice job, however I don't know how you compressed that caliper piston with a C-clamp as those pistons only retract by screwing them in. See 17:58; there is a special tool to turn that piston in or you may be able to use a large flat head screwdriver.

what size phillip bit did you use and or recommend for the hand impact tool? I know they come with some but I heard some of them are a bit too small. thanks.

Oh, and ALWAYS clean and re-grease your slide pins (the initial 2 bolts you took off to get the caliper out). If they get dirty? They'll stick, which will cause dragging brakes, warped rotors, uneven pads, and seizing in bad cases. Grease them every time pads are changed...just my 2 cents

great presentation and excellent detailed video !!! Thank you will save me big $$

Very nice video and easy to follow. I'm getting ready to do my daughter's 2004 Accord rear brakes and possibly the front ones as well. I really like the 'Capitals' sticker on your cabinet too! :-)

They are JAS 3 fasteners holding the rotor.

How come on my accord there are no metal shims on my front or rear brake pads like there is on yours? It makes me wonder why my breaks are making knocking and squealing noises, it is like the pads are moving.

Nice video going to replace my calipers now

That is a great video. Thank you very much for making it. I am a little confused on how the rear caliper works. You can both screw the piston back in with those special brake spanner wrench things or push them back in with a C-clamp? Sounds like it has two ways of moving in the same direction. My lower slide pin bolt on the driver side rear was stuck so I am about to try out my new Harbor Freight electric impact wrench to get it loose. Taking me a long time to do all of this but I am learning and it won't take me so long the next time. Having the right tools on hand from the beginning of the job will save a lot of time.

Thanks... you was very helpful

Exactly like mine, 2001 accord.

Thank you so much. This video is worth a lot of $$$.

Do not use a clamp to depress the pistons on those Honda rear calipers, not if you want to reuse them. They need to be screwed/turned with a brake tool (or a pair of needle-nose pliers) inserted into the grooves of the cross on the face of the piston. Those calipers were probably trashed Because somebody clamped on them before.

The screws on the rotors are JIS heads I believe, not Philips.

Helpful vid

this is a great good video.well explained.

Despite your very well executed video with narration it is highly suggested that you apply grease under the shim, on the outside of the shim and in the brackets where the pegs on the side of the brake pads rest in the brackets. its not 100% necessary but to increase the longevity of your rotors and pads its definitely suggested

Praise Christ Jesus the Lord! Your video was very helpful to my son and I, we prayed beforehand and during the job we had a frozen Caliper, that’s when the God of Abraham,Issac and Jacob led me to your video, perfect thank you Jesus Christ!

Excellent video, great job and thankyou

I just found out mine is sticking on the right side. Inside side of the disc is warn terribly at an angle. Swap will be easy, finding the part here in Goias Brasil....another story.

I had to do the rears on my 7th gen Honda more than once. Somehow those remanufactured calipers don’t last.

Great video! Thanks. How have those Chi-com rotors held up ?

I have a 99 accord v6 and I went to salvage yard to get a caliper bolt wandering what size head the bolt is the one I got bigger than the one that’s on it

Thank you Great video

great video thank you

so, when you initially compressed the piston with the c-clamp, it went in OK? I thought you had to use a special tool on that model accord to turn the piston at the same time?

Excellent video, Honda pads just dont cut it, i would have went with Akebono.

Does anyone realize that the first step with the c clamp doesn't do anything since the caliper piston needs to be turned to be opened up?

There's no penalty for removing the piston from the "core" to examine it before replacement. Often the caliper is ok and at most needs the seal replaced. -I'll bet that you find the areas of the old caliper support frame under the stainless guides (abutment clips) had a thick uniform layer of rust, so even if the guide pins were moving freely in their bores, the pads would bind instead of sliding free. Cleaning those areas and removing the rust before relubing should be annual maintenance in coastal areas and where roads are salted. -Annual draining some brake fluid from a bleeding is also a good idea, (siphoning the old fluid from the master cylinder reservoir and replenishing it first). -The brake hardware also needs annual cleaning and lube, with silicone lube put between the stainless clips and the frame and on the spring where it rubs against the outer edge of the pads to inhibit rusting. Honda packs a lube paste packet with their pads and it should be used.

Is there a trick to installing on the rear side brake pad? I watched some other videos and someone said something about aligning the notch into the criss cross part of the piston on the caliper. They said if its not done properly, potentially the brake pad will be at an angle and never wear evenly. My car isa 9gen honda civic. thanks and nice video! :)

Because you installed a new caliper you didn't reveal the special tool required to push the piston back. The standard C clamp doesn't work with Honda's back breaks

Your Honda Odyssey ATF filter replacement video was helpful to me. Now it looks like you have the best Honda Accord rear brake pad replacement video on RU-vid. So, I subscribed to your channel. I bought an 8" C-Clamp that helped me open up the calipers some. I also bout a manual impact screw driver. Thanks for the good guidance. Just opening the brake fluid reservoir cap seems to be a fine measure instead of opening up the bleed valve on the rear brakes. It was easy to get the brake caliper cylinder worked back by just turning it with an extra wide screw driver. I’m replacing the radiator on my 2001 Honda Odyssey this weekend, as a do-it-yourselfer job. If you have created any or know of any good Honda Radiator replacement videos, could you point them to me? Thanks!

Great video. What are the minimum hand tools needed to do this job properly? I noticed a torque ratchet driver, jack, wheel chicks, hand impact screwdriver,...?

12mm, 14mm and a 17mm open end... :)

Very good video thank you... How did the rotors last? I heard someone say they warp and turn to rust quickly.

What a great video !!!!

Could it be possible where one of the pads is a different compound than the other (outside pad)? hence the difference in wear?

Those calipers looked perfectly fine? or was this a preventative measure?

I'm about to do this job on a friend's 03 Accord EX that is experiencing uneven wear on the passenger side pad. The dealership, upon inspection, indicated a slider pin was seized & their recommendation was to do the full rear brake job, plus replace the caliper where the pin seized (along with a full rear brake job). My intent is to DIY the rear pads and rotors, meanwhile pulling out the seized pin, lubing it, cleaning out the female assembly within the caliper, and reinstalling. So my question is, if you wouldn't mind, if you were sure a seized slider pin was the root of the uneven wear issue, would you still have replaced the calipers?

Thanks!btw, you sound like Daniel Tosh

good job !!!

Great video!!!!

Hola ,por que reemplazaste los caliper? en mi accord no acciona el freno de mano

Hey why did you crack the lug nuts while the car is on the ground? I always jack it up first then remove the lug nuts. Am I doing it wrong or causing damage?

What do you do if you have to drill the 2 screws that keeps the disc? You leave it like this and install everything?

I know this is an older video, but how did he compress that piston with a C clamp? I saw the cross pattern on the piston thinking they have to be "screwed" back in. But I did notice you needing to pry it with a screwdriver to get it off. Did the c clamp even move it?

Does the wear indicator always go on the inside bottom side on every car?

Why did you not grease the pad contact surfaces?

you didn't put anti-seize on the contact points on the pads

Well done.

First time I see anyone who pushed the piston back before take it off ! Why? Usually you don’t have to do this ! Any reason?

awesome

top ..pro and easy