I’m so happy that you covered the electrical lol. That’s really the only thing I didn’t like about it. I don’t think the rough cut edges or the indentions from use are a bad thing. It gives it character and shows that it is 1 of a kind. It’s unique. It feels more authentic.
Yeah, I like distressing pine with a hammer, screws, chains, etc. Rub a little stain over it and wipe off immediately, so it is darker in the low spots. Then apply a clear varnish or poly for a great finish. You won't even care the next time someone dents the table.
That was my first thought, but there's a fine line between looking weathered and looking beaten up. I've found that using a darker stain makes the weathering look better than a lighter color.
I just completed my game table. I went with a hardwood top as you suggested in this video and bought wheels for legs. I did not cut out for tv or token treys. I did do the cup holders. My center is two layers of paint-able plywood. I used 4 metal braces to help support legs to table instead of doing a lower section. Went with a dark wood stain called espresso by minwax. Spent about $250 good chunk was the hard wood, paintable plywood, and stain. Thanks for all the advice and walk threw very happy to have this in my nerd cave.
Thanks for the original video as well as a the follow-up. I really appreciate that you went back to address the electrical outlets by adding proper boxes. That was my only issue I saw with the original build.
3D printed trays is absolutely the way to go, just like the existing cupholders. I was thinking that during your first video. Then to hear you say it here made me smile. Nice work.
Rad! Glad to see another video! Your channel is what randomly got me into tabletop hobbies. From zero to all zombicide + numerous other big mini games, and a lot of terrain + tools and supplies.
I think I would have put the outlets underneath the table, as to avoid having plugs/cords sticking out from the sides. Will eliminate the chance the plug might be broken off inside the outlet and/or the tripping hazard of the cords dangling from the table sides. Other than that, most everything else is cosmetic and your design is sound. I agree on the hardwood issue, would be annoying to spend that money and then have the table damaged anyway.
So you you ever go to remake the top inserts use a cabinet grade plywood or a higher grade board not pine. I worked for a lumber yard for for 8 years and those will always warp and twist over time. Those are intended to be used as a for closet shelves, panel and trim. So they are nailed down not allowing them to twist. You can add small wood strips to the bottom in a ring to keep the plywood from sagging. They would like a tray upside down. I hope that helps.
Welcome back! I’ve always really enjoyed your content. I hope you appreciate the use you’ve gotten out of your table these past years, mistakes and all. I’ve designed half a dozen gaming tables but built none of them. :)
Your table is not only what got me to buy a Table of Ultimate Gaming (after realizing it would be quicker than building myself) but also got me into Gloomhaven and HirstArts molds!
@@gaminggeek241 Hi There! Yes I am pretty sure, the ones he has marked "Gloomhaven" sets on his site. Its the 4 different molds - he did a cool video series where he goes into detail how to build them and paint them. The first video was at your house and then he did the tutorials in the series. I haven't started building them yet, I am still searching for a good price on flowstone
Oh great... Now I am going to have to redesign my gaming table plans... (seriously though... I had not considered that... it would be brilliant. one could quickly scribble notes, movement diagrams, etc. It would not be hard to put a suitable laminate on the underside of the boards that make the top table so all you had to do was flip them over to convert from wood top to white board. in my own design, I had in mind to have wood top for a flat table over a second set of removable boards recessed a short distance to be able to hold terrain for miniatures which in turn could be removed to reveal a low budget large screen TV that could be plugged into the GMs computer as a digital map. Granted my design is not as budget friendly as GamingGeek's. Thanks for the idea.
you can cut the 3-4 inches off the leg bottoms to get it back to the height you liked, and if you cut the boards into thinner widths they would be less likely to warp
To answer the question on what change I'd make. Not a significant change, but I'm quite a fan of multiple types of tabletop hobby, including things like model trains and war gaming with detailed battle grounds. I also don't have a lot of room for storing those sorts of setups fully assembled. So what I'll probably do when I build my own is notch the inside of the legs so that I can store 4x4 plywood inserts underneath the table. Then, with just a little bit of help, I can put the inserts on top in place of the boards and my gaming table can instantly be my model train setup or my wargame setup and then be converted back with just a little more help. Another thing I'm thinking of doing, system's on a board are getting really cheap and they're more than powerful enough to run things like roll D20. Given that I don't always GM, I'm sorely tempted to integrated a Pi4 or Odroid as a built in computer for the other GMs who want to give a multimedia experience without having to bring their own PCs and fiddle with getting everything plugged in. Likewise, maybe integrate some cheap speakers I got at goodwill. My game space is my garage which has to be used for all the other garage things too, so the more features and options I can onboard into the table itself in my own build the better.
The dents and imperfections give it character so not a big deal at all! if anything it can even be more immersive due to tables in d&d type settings almost always looking beat up and imperfect. But i can understand if you want a more premium look then by all means go for the stronger wood! hehe
No matter what wood is used, anything wider than 3-4 inches, will warp... Professional carpenters know this, so they glue boards, edge on, turning the grains opposite one another, so that they warp against each other, holding each other straight. To do this, you will need a planer, to make them seamlessly flat. My recommendation on hard wood, is Hickory: it will take any stain color you want; it is harder than Oak, and 10x stronger than Oak for weight bearing. Honestly, I would recommend you go with a professionally made table, unless you are a carpenter, with the proper tools. It is a great deal of work, to do it properly, in hard wood. Cheers!
Great video! You could cut out the tray completely and use drop trays from a $1 store or some other cheep plastic tray from fruit sellers to fill the gap. Fantastic tips! I still love your table. It is one of the best home made tables ever made and does the job as needed.
I looked at trays but was having a hard time finding one that was shallow enough. They have some pencil trays that looked promising but I would have to re-cut the opening.
I would like to build a table like that. I have watched your video on it a number of times and I hope to do so one day. I just need the space for it and currently don't have that.
🎯 Key Takeaways for quick navigation: 01:09 ⚡ Install electrical boxes around outlets for safety to prevent shocks and reduce the risk of electrical fires. 02:05 🪚 Consider using pre-finished flooring or plywood instead of pine boards for a smoother and even tabletop surface. 03:41 🏃♂️ Add casters to the table legs to make it easier to move, especially for cleaning or creating space for activities like VR. 04:51 🪚 Use a plunge router or 3D print trays for cleaner and more precise cutouts in the table. 06:24 🪵 Consider using hardwood like oak instead of softwood for the tabletop to minimize dents and blemishes, even though it may increase costs. Made with HARPA AI
I've heard you're not supposed to hang your VR headset like that, it could be people babying their equipment but I felt I should pass that info along. Thanks for the table update!
That table isn't to badly worn after almost 2 year's of wear and tear. I made mine from a regular table modified into a playable recessed 4'x6' table. I am selling it because I don't use it.. 😞 I built it with the Hope's of friends coming over
Glad to see you back man! Been waiting for like a year for more of your content. Can you make an updated nerd cave tour? I’m interested in what new minis, games and features to your space you’ve made.
I built mine 5'x9' in two pieces that came together so I could store it easily. I had intentions of using outlets, but my group always had one person distracted by their phone. LEDs in the well. Seated 10 comfortably.
@Gaminggeek I actually really like your table bro. I especially like that you can put the topper on and make it a normal table. One of the better designs I've seen. I probably would have chopped off the corners though and made it an emerald shape.
All you have to do about the warping table top slats is when you buy new wood. Just let it dry for a week or 2. Clamp the wood together, lay it out on a shelf off the ground. Then keep it in a dry space like your garage. Most wood you buy from a lumber yard is still wet. So dry it out, then make you cute and stain it. It should turn out just fine.
I think you've done well. I'd leave the Pine rails as they will patina, allowing the table look more aged over time, adding a heap of character to it. Of this, don't worry too much about free-handing the cut outs as I think they look alright the way they are as it adds character to your table as well. Have you considered mouldings to dress the table up a little differently? There are some very nice ones available that range from cheap to expensive. Cheers for the video bud :-)
SOOO glad your back Gaminggeek. I've missed you and your tutorials. I made the table (pics on your boardgamegeek thread) used neoprene and the lights like you mention at the end of this video. I also used outlets that have USB plugs in them as well for easier charging capabilities. Very happy with it. I f i was to make changes, however, I would probably make the arm rails wider and also move the pencil holders more towards the center. I find that the ledge is where people want to put their books and binders for D&D or character tiles and such for games but there just isn't enough room so they end up putting it down on the table which ends up severely decreasing the playable surface in the middle. A wider rail would allow for that problem. This is probably my only issue with the table as it was built exactly to your spec's minus the TV. (which in hindsight i wish i did as well)
The only thing I worry about wider rails is reaching the center of the table. We end up using TV trays at the corners of the table when we need more real estate. But I do think wider rails would definitely work if your players have a lot of books.
Hey, channel idea that could really kick off. Custom tables or "inserts" for a "main table" for specific games. Obviously people wont realistically have enough room for custom game tables, but this is RU-vid and people like to dream. You're obviously an competent builder, and well versed in tabletop games so I imagine you could draw something up. IDK about you, but I would watch the shit out of that lol
You can donate tables to local gaming stores or board game cafes. The idea of a "DIY gaming table" channel seems like it could really satisfy a niche audience, and with the success of your main video and even this little follow up I doubt you'd have a hard time finding it.
Dents are character. Understand you want to improve your design, kudos to you for that. I don’t see a need to ever replace this table. If you’re worried about the height just remove the legs and cut 3” from the top of each leg, put it back together and boom. *Removable* trays are better than cutouts, IMO. The top, you could cut those boards into 2-3” strips and glue them back together, flipping every other piece end for end. You’d lose a couple inches from the saw cuts so maybe you’d have to remake that center piece wider, but it would take most of the warp out of the existing boards. Use a belt sander and you can get it looking decent without dropping hundreds on a planer, and you’ll have to stain and seal again. But I guess someone would most likely buy it if you wanted to fund your next one
Issue the players clipboards for their character sheets. I estimate when and if I build my own gaming table it will run me around $500-600 (not counting electronics) but the design was inspired largely by "The Sultan". Sadly there is not a place to fit a gaming table at he house I live at currently so I have designed, but not built mine. I love what you did with yours.
Hey there, if you just run a normal hand router around those cut outs it will make them a lot cleaner. Just a really small bevel or something to round out that corner and it will hit a lot of the little stuff.
While having solid wood would be nice, what could be very inexpensive is to go to Ikea and go to their "AS-IS" section for their giant boards. I made a large desk out of a partcile board piece that was huge 45"x85". I think it was leftover wood from the siding against a kitchen cabinet maybe? Not sure, but it never warps, is all finished, was about $7.80, and you can use whiteboard markers on them :) I did the same with my work office where I bought IKEA boards (particle board) which already have some finish, cut it with a table saw, and then put it on my desk. Now I can diagram on my desk and my To-do list it right next to my keyboard where I doodle all over with my collection of whiteboard markers. Take that for "cheap." It's easily replaced and just as durable as hardwood in the same time period.
Oh, I forgot to mention - because my "desk" board was one super large solid piece that was very cheap, I didn't feel bad about playing around/scratching/denting it. I ended up painting a giant Zelda mural (art style similar to wall paintings in Link Between Worlds), and covering it with epoxy resin. My regret is that there are a few tiny bubbles I missed with my heat gun and aren't noticable, but because I'm a perfectionist, I always know it's there under my stationary set... Keep epoxy resin away from sunlight as well, it will cause it to yellow over time. But so far I've used it for about 3 years and haven't had any issue (b^.^)b well, I had one issue, my husband HATED the smell of the epoxy resin when coating it. Please be very careful when dealing with large amounts of chemicals!
I'd suggest you go ahead and put GFC outlets there, just because "**** Happens", and someone could spill coffee into the outlet. They are a bit more expensive, sure, but not so much that it's too bad. As far as the wood and "dents" -- well, you can replace those pieces a lot cheaper than you can a serious hardwood, and, face it -- someone **is** going to dent any wood -- even hardwood -- and it's going to look all that much worse for being pristine. You might even consider using flooring wood for that, as it's usually patterned in a way that does not show scuffs and is pretty hard and resistant to abuse. Another option would be to use multiple layers of a hard enamel resin on it -- then you could just use a find sanding pad on it and get rid of it... and, eventually, when you get down, just apply more new coats.
Link to F.A.T. Mat was not working. I was able to go to the site normally but if you get credit for the link I'd like to make sure you get it. Thank you so much for making this table available for everyone to see how it was done and make it themselves.
The problem with warping is less the wood type but more to do with the width and most likely being from a hardware store since they typically sell green wood.
@@gaminggeek241 Well, the quartersawn aspect would be the most stable quality to prevent warping. It'll probably be kiln-dried anyway. You won't find it at a big box store, but there is a reasonable certainty there is a lumber yard/supplier in your area code. The grain pattern in most plainsawn boards will naturally promote warping, and the straight grain in quartersawn will naturally prevent that. Because of how the wood needs to be processed, there is more waste in quartersawing, but for quality projects that need to be stable, it is worth the extra cost. I don't know if you can readily find that in softwoods like pine, because pine is generally appreciated for being cheaper, which goes counter to the expense of quartersawing. Oak or Maple would be good choices, red oak should be cheaper than white, generally. Hope that helps.
I think you boards warped not because they were pine but from the amount of moister still in the wood at the time of build. I believe furniture makers use a moister meter to check the moister levels before building so they can joint/plane out the warp. I am not an expert though. 🤷♂️
Yes, pine usually has a lot of moisture in it and can take a year to fully dry out. You are supposed to put the wood in the room that you are going to use the furniture in so they can dry out before you start building but I'm not patient enough to do that. I think flooring would have worked the best.
@@gaminggeek241 it is the width of the boards that makes them warp. If you insist on having boards that wide, you need to use plywood, as plywood cannot warp due to the seperate layers
I am a cabinet maker. first of all you need to add some strength by using more glue to other parts like the legs. as for what you could have done better? well this is a long term use so I would have also used a a biscuit machine and added some strength that way. that project could have save a few dollars on making your own filler putty. how? well your sander makes a nice same color of wood dust. collect the dust and mix with wood glue. the fill in the holes. clean with a wet rag. might not need as much sanding. also you should have used a better hard plastic resin for the finish. that way you would have less marks. but if you are using a hard wood and a soft wood combo remember that Oak is nice and would be my choice but Maple and pine can look similar and you can also use a burning wood method to make it look the same. and you should always have boxes for electrical boxes.
1: Plugs with USB built in. 2: Trays with routed lips and straight edges (inserts works too). 3: use that mat you have for the top instead of the foam for the inside. 4: using 3x3s for the legs instead of a pair of 2x4s 5: skipping the lower shelf and tapering the inside edges of the legs 6: halflaps for the drop in top and a push down dowel that pops up the first panel. I am looking at pushing the outlets into the sides so the plugs don't stick out (I don't like the outlets on the bottom as it makes it harder to find them. But now I am going to put the LEDs around the inside wall.
its awasome. i highly like it. ive had some ideas myself, though im not a crafter and im not rich… 1. any table i would want would have the option to raise/lower it. i have a livingroom table that has old cast iron with a Wheel you turn to lower/raise it. thats really nice. but i could also just deal with an electrical one. the reason for it is that its really nice to have a "normal" livingroom table, that you then can raise up. the cool thing would be to be able to stand next to it. however ive only come across tables that either allows for a lower livingroom table into a sitting table. or a sitting table into a standing table. i do have an idea for how a lower livingroom table into a standing table could look like and work. but someone probably have better idea :) (mine is basicly a lowest Point, raised into a sitting Point with under the table shelf, then from that Point raise the outer legs into a standing table with under the table shelf. 2. the next would be costom tabletops, the mats are very nice and easy options. my previous idea was having different tabletops as "painting" decorations, since some tabletops looks really nice. so you simply wall mount it, and hang it off when you want to change the look or the game. it also works as kind of a "poster" wall for the favorite games. (ofcourse games like talisman and such would be costom made, so its more of a 3D map. inner outer layers, walls and such. and in rare cases, even possible to dungeon the game down into the table. 3. i would like to have pullout drawers for up to 8 seats. where you can store items. for example some games you hide your items, or in some legacy games you can have your own drawer for those items. its just a neat version. 4. the electrical i Would have option to have run down a leg, so you can easily hide it, rather then to have it at tablehight (this would be needed for a raise/lower table). 5. i would also option the wireless chargers for the table. 6. along with the screen in the middle (really nice touch). i would like pads for each player. for those kinds of games. now this table would ofcourse run away with alot of Money, but its such a cool feature, it would def steal the attention of the room.
I used 4x4s for the legs in a farm table style, I routed out the recessed areas but not all the way through the wood, and I also added a groove all around he table so we can stand cards up. I will be making another table this year for my garage with a 3.5’x6’ inlay and I am not going to put the table topper on it since I don’t ever use that portion of the table. If you want to look at it it’s on my Instagram @tabletop.gamer
Gaminggeek I was waiting for a new miter saw to do it and finally got a new dewalt duel beveled sliding saw. I’ll be posting pictures on my Instagram when I do it might try and make a video too. I won’t won’t be doing it for a few months most likely be a project for the end of spring time.
I wonder if it could have 2 different heights (table and coffee table height) through maybe hinges in the posts. That way the same table could be used with couch seating.
Original video was great I'm going to attempt one myself, but will cost a little more as all electrical work must be done by a qualified electrician here in Australia, so might double my costs. Your dents I agree with others add character to the table. And the top maybe you could use laminated craft board or similar. Even using a different laminate wood finish to make it a highlight.
Do city inspectors actually investigate furniture? While you want to make sure the work is done right, especially if your area uses higher than 120v mains power, there are sometimes laws and regulations like this that exist but are never (or very seldom) enforced. Here in the States we could certainly get into trouble if electrical wasn't done properly on a structure, but unless there was a fire or injury, or we were involved in commercial production, no officials would ever be involved with furniture or appliances.
I guess this is probably too late but if you get prewired extensions that you can just screw into place, would that be cheaper than getting an electrician to do it but still be legal? Or would it be too ugly? You could maybe have them under the table rather than visible on the outside.
I think the main change i'd make tot he design is a border (as in the part hat isn't lower once opened) wide enought to fit an A4 (29,7 x 21 cm) sheet. sorry if i'm not clear, english isn't my mother thongue
I am impressed with the result. Nothing says result like durability and 3 years says it. For the topper maybe you should bite the bullet, pull those boards out, sand them back and fasten the boards together to provide torsion support. Is there any way to press the boards before sanding or are we talking high expense again?
I'm very confused by the simple fact you didn't put glass over the tv......I mean I know it's a cheap tv, but still. It would also make mounting the tv much simpler with an internal lip for the glass.
I run a laptop to the TV via HDMI so the TV functions like a monitor. The players control the TV with a wireless mouse and keyboard with the laptop underneath the TV out of sight. As DM, I have a separate laptop that isn't connected to the TV. I use Roll20 which is typically used for virtual RPGs but works with this setup.
Any thoughts on insetting the outlets a bit? You don't have a lot of space for that, but it makes the outlets more convenient when something is plugged into them so you're not bumping them a lot.
I made mine back in 2014. It's a different design, but ultimately they try to accomplish the same goals. Some build pictures and the final table can be seen here: www.deviantart.com/gentlegiantdk/gallery/51227027/Gaming-Table I'm contemplating either modifying my current table (and I'll do a top 5 things that I'd like to change below) or build a completely new table. My top 5 (okay, 7) things I would have liked to change or incorporate from the beginning (or do now): 1) Lower the TV enough so I could put in leaves on top of it, to make it a more "regular" table. This is still doable as the beams the TV rests upon can be attached a bit lower. I'd have to take out the molding around the hole, but that would also leave me a thin shelf for the leaves to rest on. 2) Made the table about 4 inches wider. That would have added 2 inches on each side of the screen. Right now there's enough room for a single A4 sheet of paper between the edge and the molding, but not enough room if you have your character sheet in a binder (unless the binder sticks out over the edge of the table). 3) The tabletop was made from pine shelves, so they suffer from the same problem your surface does too. It's relatively soft wood, so it's fairly dented in some places (due to dice rolls mostly). A hardwood top would have been more resistant (but also more expensive). 4) Stained the top and sides. This was my original plan, but I was rushing to get it finished for the upcoming gaming session, so I settled on just varnishing the wood directly. 5) Different legs. Although it would have made it much heavier, I would have liked some more central legs, a trestle style set-up, to ensure that there weren't any legs in the way along the sides. 6) Bigger TV. Currently I have a 40" TV in the table, which is definitely fully serviceable... but a 50" would also have been cool. ;-) It would make the table much wider, though, if I still wanted the same space on the sides for character sheets (or laptops). 7) An almost fully recessed playing area, similar to yours, with a TV screen that was still recessed more and could be covered up. This way we could go either digital (which is crucial on most game nights, as we have one or two players joining via Skype and Roll20) or "physical", with 3D printed terrain, if all players are present at the table (6 players + 1 GM). I'm still contemplating what a new table might look like (I'm leaning towards a geek chic inspired style, in the vein of this type: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-CGkC1QdeQe8.html - but with a screen embedded still) as there are several things to consider (price, size vs. space in my apartment vs. being able to fit 7 people comfortably).
You did a great job! I think how you built the dovetail for the additional section is genius. Yeah, you do learn a lot from your first time building but I'm sure your gamers love version 1.0 nonetheless!
@@gaminggeek241 Thanks! Yes, the extension worked out much better than I had hoped for. Originally I thought I'd have to install a latch on both sides to keep it together, but the fit is snug enough that it sits there quite securely. If you start deliberately pulling it comes out, of course, but from ordinary use it's perfectly secure. We've had many great sessions around the table. It feels more engaging to most of use, when we can see a more "accurate" presentation of the environment. We've mostly been playing Paizo's Adventure Paths, and there's a great community out there, with some very talented people, who have created hi-res battlemaps for several of the APs.
Does anyone have any suggestions for the top table inserts? Trying to figure out which route to go, that isn't a single giant piece of plywood and that won't result in warping. Thanks!
@@Eris-_ i suppose so i guess. I mean if he had the bottom opened up more to have more airflow. I would think that would resolve the issue. Or, maybe drilling small holes.
@@brandoneadie8566 , I thought that under the TV was fairly open anyway; IIRC from the first video, he had it resting on two lengths of wood with nothing else underneath until you get to the shelf for games. Or does the screen itself generate too much heat if there's plexiglass over it?
that neopreen mat is almost 4 times as expensive as the original top boards (you spent 16$ on the boards) You bought the boards to not have to pay 50$ for the 4x8 foot nice looking board, but indeed hindsight is 20/21
@@gaminggeek241 Maybe time to do a 'remaster' as is all the hype today. "Build a spiffy gaming table for less than the price of a few good table-top games!" (edit) and yeah, I cringed at the wiring of those outlets, as did many others apparently :p. Relieved you did put them in a junction box in the end.
hie there, great job ! I'm planing to make one myself (with a friend who got the tools) But, do you reckon that a 32 inches tv would be enough to play some Star Wars Imperial Assault ? Some maps are quite "square" like 53*50cm As a 32inch tv is more like 43cm, i'm a bit affraid to lose some centimeters with a 32 screen here... But i don't know how it would impact the space for miniatures on the "table" Any ideas ? Stay safe Cheers from belgium !
If you want to avoid scrolling the map, I would go with a larger TV if possible. You can size the map to be smaller to fit the TV but as you stated, the miniatures won't fit the map quite as well. But sometimes we shrink the map for D&D and it is usually fine.
Thinking of building a table like this for my group but I always have an issue finding the digital versions of maps and haven't found a good software to run them. What do you use? I would also like to integrate outlet/usb chargers all in one.
Laminate would definitely be more durable. But managing the edging where the side meets the top would be difficult to do well. Possibly doing just the top section would be feasible though.
@@gaminggeek241 I would think that a router could handle the edging pretty easily (around the edges and in the dice well and cup holders as well). There are plenty of YT videos showing edge cleanup for laminate too.
