thanks bro! The tip that saved me was the little black breaker button on the the thermo switch. It had "thrown". The interesting thing is that it's not visible and on the reset, it doesn't actually move...but you can feel a tiny click. If you aren't actually "feeling for it" you might miss it or assume that breaker was not the issue. It was. To put it into song lyrics.... "I've had the time of my life No, I never felt like this before Yes, I swear it's the truth And I owe it all to you". Love it when people help each other
Man, you just saved me. I've spent the past 24 hours trying to fix my water heater. No light, no flame. I went out at 8pm and got a thermocouple, got home and it was the wrong one. Ended up buying the right one and picked up in store today on my lunch break. Got home, installed the entire assembly, no flame. Took it apart, checked it, still nothing. I'm ready to admit defeat and call a plumber, I keep scouring the internet for answers and read your answer.... I googled "Honeywell water heater thermostat breaker button" and found it... One tiny little black button. I pressed it and the thing fired right up. Thankyou for the reply because it just helped me out.
For those who replaced the thermocouple and still won’t lit the status light it is the little breaker switch. At least it was for me. Great video. Many thanks from a new homeowner.
i watched a lot of ytube videos in an attempt to get my water heater issue solved. I never knew about that tiny breaker switch. Your video was the only one that mentioned and pointed it out. This was my culprit. Thank you!!
Excellent video! Just what I needed to convince me the thermopile was bad even though it showed reasonable micro volts. $27 kit from Amazon and less than an hour to replace the parts and the heater started up perfectly. The Honeywell control valve showed the red light blinking, but it would fade out and then come back on, and then off. It also showed the 2 blinks which the chart on the control says is a bad thermopile. Thanks again for a great, well-done video!
Which part did you order? Do you have a link? Another question may be: If there is more than one part, how would I check to make sure I get the correct one?
I got the same issue. That thermocouple that I bought from grainger was universal. So my father in law who’s also a handy man helped me do the work. My issue was the burner didn’t wanna kick in. So we changed the thermocouple but they don’t carry the original part as SEARS went out of business. But after changing the thermocouple, now the damn pilot light won’t stay on. Can anybody help?
I pressed the reset button on the right side heat gauge stick and that worked. That was after I watched another video which had me disconnect everything and take the whole burner out and clean it. All that did not work but the little button reset did. Thank you!
I don't know much about water heaters.. but after watching this video, I now know about the "Breaker switch". Pilot light wouldn't stay lit no matter how long I held it.. until i watched this video. Clicked the breaker switch in & gave it a try, the status light came on like it should. Thanks for the info! 👍🏼
...and girls! Thank you for providing the ONE video that answered ALL my questions and helped me fix our cold shower dilema! Ive liked and subscribed so PLEASE; KEEP EM COMING!
Dude thank you for showing me where that thermal switch breaker is! I kept reading there was a breaker to check but I didn’t realize the little black plastic was it. I am up and running thanks to you. Liked and subscribed.
I'm a plumber. Lemme watch this. Maybe I can help. Stand by. You got it. Now you know for next time. Sometimes just cleaning that thermopile gently, is enough. Now that you cleaned it out. You did the maintenance that will help it last ten years longer.
Have you ever seen one that produces 700mv and still wont power the gas valve? I watched hours of YT vids and everyone was saying that if it produced 400-750mv the thermopile was good. I'm still baffled.
Thank you VERY much. Very helpful information. I took an extremely cold shower last night because I couldn't figure out what was going on. I thought the same thing. How did they do it back in the old days??? LOL. Thank you again Sir. What's odd is after watching this video I made another attempt to light the pilot after doing a reset per another video i watched and it work! I will change the part you mentioned if this happens again.
It turns out the issue with my water heater was with the thermal switch breaker. I had never encountered that before, so it was unfamiliar to me. Thank you for directing me to the button.
I'm right there with the cold shower now for three weeks... 🥶 Thanks for sharing your journey. Thermol pile. I'm trying next. Wish I had a man to do, but I don't... So here I go. 🧐🤨
This has performed exactly as desired ru-vid.comUgkx8G49mV71sAzUl9shXyLW-r3XgHH9EVh1 . Basically, instant hot water instead of waiting up to two minutes as it was before. I have had this installed almost exactly one year now and just replaced the anode which is pictured. I pulled it out at six months and cleaned the heating element and removed debris. I would recommend a cleaning every six months and an anode replacement yearly. A mild citric acid and water solution soak really helps clean the heating element and tank. It must be fully disassembled to do the cleaning and that is not difficult but could have been made easier with a couple of design changes but no big deal.
I have this exact 40 gallon heater from Sears since March 2012. I've had the gas valve replaced twice to date. I have a Master Protection Agreement with Sears, so I never had to pay anything out of pocket. I can't re-light the pilot at all. I had to call Len the Plumber to replace a leaking Temperature and Pressure relief valve on Saturday because Sears had no available techs. Two days later my pilot goes out. I'm hopeful, they can fix it this Friday and give me a little time to save up for replacement. I'm not mechanically inclined nor do I have the testing equipment so I can't do the work.
it's that little black connector. somehow the pins don't make good contact with the connector on the valve. there is some way to manipulate them to grip the valve contacts but it's probably only temporary. replacing the thing like you did is the way to go for sure. nice job!
Next time, get paper clip, or some T-pins and (back probe) press them up into that connector at the unit so that you can test it while it's under load. You can have sufficient voltage, but once you put a load on it, it will drop significantly. I'm sure everyone has seen it at least once: when you're in a car and everything is working, all the lights are on; but when you go to crank the starter, EVERYTHING goes dead. That's simply because the battery was basically dead and as soon as you try to pull any real current, the voltage plumets. So again, don't just test it on an open circuit; test it while it's plugged in and under load. Cheers.
@@itomburgess Yeah, the newer kind are called "thermalpile"- because they have several thermal couples built into one, on the inside. So one or two of those internal thermal couples can go bad and drop your current flow too low, even though the voltage still reads fairly high. I think mine lasted 8 or 10 years. Not too bad; a new one fixed it- hopefully for another 10 years.
@@itomburgess Yes. that is most likely what is wrong. But I also had a second issue with mine. The light was giving a 4 blink code. and then it was giving a 7 blink code. So I pulled off the panel. And a little piece fell out.... My wire was so hard to unhook, I think I pried and wiggled it a little too hard, and I broke a little piece off of the board on the inside.... If you pull off the panel cover, and slide the board off of those 3 pins you can see what I'm talking about. Those 3 pins that stick out from the gas valve are like wires, and they are connected to the valves inside. That's how the board is controlling the valves. So anyway, those little pins pass through holes in the board and they slide through these pyramid shaped contacts, that grip around the pin so electricity can pass through it... Well one of those "pyramid" connectors had broken off; luckily I didn't lose it when I pulled the cover off. So have a tray or a mat under your plastic cover when you pull it off, just incase those broken pyramids fall out. So I had to solder it back on, and it wasn't easy. Otherwise if your board is broken, you'll have to buy a new one- which I believe is like $150 or something crazy. But you can fix it with a simple soldering iron. I had a thick staple or trim nail and I slide it through the board and slide that pyramid over it so that it would be aligned correctly, and I managed to solder it pretty well. It took me like an hour to figure out how to get it soldered back on there. Kinda tricky. I'll send you a video that shows you how to check the valves with a 9v battery and make sure they are working. (which they most likely will be). I'll link the video in the next reply, but just in case it deletes it: The video's exact name is: "4 flash error code reset diy how to reset"
@@itomburgess Here is a second video that helped me learn how to reset the board. I never needed to do it once I resoldered my broken piece (and replaced the thermalpile). But most likely you will just have to get a new thermalpile, because that's the most common issue with these. I ended up getting a whole new kit: that's the thermal pile, pilot and ignitor. You can get away with just getting a cheap thermal pile though, like at harbor fright or lowes. Just take yours in and make sure it's the same one. Anyway, I'll link it next, but just in case it gets deleted: here's the name of the second video with info you probably don't know, cheers: "Fixing Honeywell water heater pilot light, won't start, system reset."
@@itomburgess Here is the link to the second video-- which I'd be shocked if youtube doesn't delete it. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-GkkkLOdmXwU.html
Thanks man! that little black button switch on the thermopile keeps popping back out. it will go out about once a day and Ill push that little button back in and it will fire right up. Ordering a new one tonight! lol
Thermal couple or thermal pile need to be tested under load to make sure it works properly. Also, dont need teflon tape of flared fittings and make sure your cold water supply goes in on right side.
We have an Electric Water Heater now (no Natural Gas service and Propane is way too expensive), so thankful for one thing I don't have to deal with. I know several people that have had nothing but problems with those "new" controllers for Gas Water Heaters. You need the thermopile to generate enough power to get that stupid Status Light and the associated electronics that monitor other things to work. Like everything else much simpler with straight thermocouple and valve and in my opinion just as safe....but I'm old. BTW, what the heck kind of Warranty requires you to pay $100 plus parts? Sure, something is buried in the fine print about that but still.
Part of the reason we didn't use Sears warranty was because the customer service was/is non existent. When we finally got a hold of a live person it was hard to deal with him because of the thick Indian accent and he was rude. The main reason we bought this Kenmore was Sears was once very good at customer service. 5 years ago they came out for free and said the tank was bad on my previous unit. They were going to charge me for install but I declined and just went to sears, picked up a new unit for no charge and installed it myself. It's shocking how bad customer service has gotten over the past 10 years or so. What's even more shocking is that people tolerate it.
It probably was the connection. Really easy for even a slightly dirty/loose/poor connection to supply inadequate voltage/current to the intended device when the the voltage in question is coming from a very low-voltage/current source.
Thanks for sharing! I bought a brand new $600 water heater put it in and this same thing happened! My tenants need hot water so I went and tried to return it to lowes for a refund or an exchange! They wouldn’t do it! I had to call the manufacture I guess I was supposed to leave it installed and have it inspected by there guy! I had to buy another one ( from Home Depot this time) I really don’t think that’s right for me to get stuck buying a dead horse and a full day of my time and aggravation to boot! I’m not making my tenants wait til next month when the company can look at it any advice? Thanks
Same. Installed the short fat, had to change plumbing atop. Had to use plumber. Thought he was gonna credit me for the other heater. Did not. But dsame thing with original heater manufacturer. Would take 2 weeks, have to pay etc
My stupid WH would not light, all I did was pull out the burner, rotate the thermopile 180 degrees (these get fouled by black soot very easily) stuck it back in and it fired up the first time ;)
All of my Kenmore appliances (3) have failed or are failing. I really deeply regret investing in them. Their service number/website/chat is a big circle jerk that leads nowhere. Good luck talking to a real person.
Sounds like the problems I am having. They all look the same also. My filters are on the side. Now were you quoting that famous Hee Haw song, Gloom despair and agony on me. LOL
They entire tray that u pull out with the burner and thermopile and switch connected to it, do u know what that is called and if I can buy the entire tray in one piece?
Can this happen to brand new one i just install mines today and i can get the light to turn on same thing happen to my old one after 2 to 3 years light turn off and we tried restarting it turning it off wait 5 minutes hold pilot try to ignite wait till it lights up but fire and light never turn on only probably sparks from just trying to ignite it but dammn . So tomorrow im just going return and get it replaced
My electronic parts were reading correctly, thermal switch has continuity and measures the correct millivolts. So I tried replacing the thermopile anyway and it didn't help. I think its a faulty circuit board which is even easier to replace
Replacing the circuit board fixed the problem. Thank you for all of your info. It definitely helped me figure out troubleshoot! this was also helpful ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-cAo4I2eoJ9Q.html
Yes, I didn't elaborate in the video but Sears gave us the runaround on the phone. It took us 2 days to get a hold of a live person and that person had a very thick Indian accent. They were incapable of understanding our issue, they just wanted to send a service tech and charge me for diagnostic work that I already performed. I get it that they would need to verify my findings but the way they treated us on the phone was very rude. Used to be a store, I could go talk to the techs and they would take care of the issue, but now it's someone from India who doesn't give a darn. I wont be buying anything else from them.
No, it sounds like you have a leak that might be extinguishing your pilot light. Look around the fittings on top of the tank, that's where they usually leak. Once the leak is fixed the pilot light should stay on. Good luck.
@@TheHandsOnChannel thank you for the info. I tried relight and it blinked blue for a little bit then it started to blink red 2 times. Based on the graph on mines it’s supposed to mean low voltage. Don’t know what it is but I’ll leave that to an expert lol
Maybe even tho it was testing good I’ve seen videos where they said you have to clean off the actually connect part of the wires and where they connect.
I had an issue where my pilot light wouldn’t stay lit for very long. After months of constantly relighting it and being told by the company that it’s definitely the gas control valve I just decided to buy a brand new water heater and had it installed by a plumber. Well the new water heater has the same gas control valve that you have in this video. I am able to get the pilot light lit, but it does the same thing as the last water heater. The pilot light goes out after a good use of hot water, Say for instance after taking a shower. I’m like wth is going on? New heater and everything. Still same issue. Had the guy come back and test the voltage. Said the voltage was fine and he was stumped as to why the pilot would go out same as the old water heater (which has a different style gas control valve). I haven’t had him check the gas pressure though, but could a brand new water heater have a thermal pile/couple issue? I need to get him back out to check the gas pressure but I’m stumped because I bought the damn heater brand new.
It could be a bad thermopile even on a new unit but it would be unlikely. My guess is the gas supply pressure is low. Good luck, I know how water heater problems can be.
In my case the culprit has always been the valve itself. It seems like Honeywell puts a kill-switch to go bad every three years. Just replaced mine with a brand called Residio from Ace hardware. They are not worth a damn.
Dude stop. Simply get rid of this gas panel. These panels are nothing but problems. An those thermo piles are never available in stores. Switch out that valve with a regular gas valve with no self lighting ignitor. These new gadgets are no good. Stick to the old gas open pilot set ups
