Nice job! I have a leak in mine and I have been contemplating removing it and resealing it. You have shown me that the install is not difficult, thank you.
This is the only video that is along these lines that actually goes into replacing the back glass. I’ve been unable to find diagrams of the trim on the back wall. I can’t remove the broken back glass until that is removed. This is a much more difficult project than you make it seem. Right now I am looking at having to remove the rear seats to access the trim to access the window, and it’s electrical connectors... here I was thinking I could just jump in the back and get the window out. Now I’m looking at a whole day doing it by myself...
today used a oscillating saw with scraper blade to remove old urethane and glass on frame. worked excellent, going to try dow u428 primerless urethane to install window,
I got a buddy that's an auto Glazier and he has a tool which is specialty to his trade that's got a cylindrical aluminum handle about the size of 2 D batteries with a flat piece of Steel about a quarter inch wide sticking straight out of one. It's bent add a 90° angle and the tip of it if you will, does pointed and sharpened on two edges like a stiletto knife but it's only about 5/8 of an inch long is made specifically to remove the old urethane in that channel. He actually gave me one years ago and I have no idea what happened to it
Hey Mark, nice job on the window. I've talked with you before, I've got the same truck that I turned into a plow truck too, but one thing I did yesterday to mine is I installed a two battery system both are 850 CCA, and what a difference that makes as the plow and plow lights draw a lot from your battery, its very easy to hook up and your system will charge both batteries if hooked up the way I do it, I run two batteries in all my plow trucks hooked up this way. If you need this info just ask and I'll tell you how to run your cables......
when you set yourwindsheild , some may require to use a setting block at the bottom so the glass doesnt touch metal. And always try to get a solid glueline up the oneside to all across top and down otherside to reduse leaks.
Go to like lowes and get 2 foot of the smallest cable they sell its like pencil lead then I used 2 sticks for handles on each end so you got say like one of them things the mafia strangled people with lol then use a razor or knife to get a hole started in the seal then thread your cable threw it and use it like a saw around the perimeter of glass
Thanks for the great video. Does anyone happen to know if the early 2k rear windows are interchangeable between the 1500 and 2500HDs? It looks like the will according to a couple places I've looked but I want to be sure before I buy the glass. TIA 😊
Hi thanks for vid. I have a question about window glass. Was the replacement window completely flat or did it have curves at all on sides and along lower bottom edge? My truck had bed fire, and window busted, trim burned up, and I can't tell if the bottom edge and maybe side metal edges warped. If it did slightly warp, do you think that some bending or straightening of the metal edge, and lots of extra glue, would work? thanks
Most pickups are flat but may have a slight curve that you can’t really see unless looking up close. As long as the pinch weld(where the urethane touches the body) isn’t out of place too much you should be good. Back glass installations on a pickup are very forgiving as long as the glue touches both body and glass you should be good to go.
+Mark Jenkins Hey thanks a mil for doing this, I'm seriously confident in doing this myself now possibly with the help of a friend or my old man to hold the glass, but this is sincerely appreciated. Several companies want to do this with no warranty and if I'm not getting a warranty I might as well do it myself...
I got a Chevrolet Uplander in this hatch door the rear window I need to replace it and it's not showing video how to do that and you may know she's got a real thick rubber back there like Samsung kind of caulking or glue what can I use besides that
Im an auto glass tech and aslong as you leave some of the old urathane on the body and dont gind down to the mettal the new urathane will bond better to the existing one and u just need to clean the glass with regular old windex and no primer on the glass is needed , primer is only needed if ur back glass has plastic on it since urathane dont bond with plastic , and u might be able to do it with one tube if it one small back glass like this one two tubes are required for bigger windshield hope this helped
@@Eeropolvasti if its a newer silverado with a power slider you will need primer otherwise your good .and yes one tube ,if you have some one to help you lay the glass in you can also just lay a nice even bead of glue around the edge of the glass leave about a quarter inch space around so it dont smear out when u push it in , and just grab it by the edegs when installing it,
