Thank you! They are very efficient too, only 60 watts for over 100 ft of light string. A night time garden tour sounds like a fun idea, I will keep it in mind for this summer!
Neat job. I built a smaller one about two years ago. We had our first crop of home grown tomatoes last year. I did not go to the trouble of putting the half arches through the planer. Would have liked to see how you put on the plastic. Well done.
Thank you for watching!! The interval between the arches is 3 feet, which brings the length of the structure to 39 feet. It is about 12 feet high and 18 feet wide. It worked out perfectly with the recycled plastic we got, so we didn't have to overlap or cut the plastic at all.
How is the greenhouse holding up this growing season? You mentioned that it was built from "wood from your land" did you work it green or after it had air dryed? I should have finished reading the comments you answered my question indirectly, three weeks ago, thanks.
We do use a no dig strategy for the most part, but we incorporated a ton of manure into hard packed native clay soil, so the tiller was hard to avoid in this particular situation.
Lovely build, I am thinking of building the same type, but have lost my book on how to, so I have to wing it I guess. But what did the spouse say about you glueing up the Archer in your living room? 😁😁😁😁 I know mine would say I was making a whole lot of mess. .. But then again, I'm the only one that does love growing and so on.
Well, since she wanted the greenhouse as soon as possible, the mess in the living room was forgiven and i tried my best to clean up real nice afterwards😄 till to this day though I find here and there a little dried up drop of Wood glue that I missed on the tiles...
All the arches are covered with 3 coats of waterbased polyurethane. That will protect the wood from taking on water and prevent mold or rot. The foundation beams are preassure treated lumber and can handle the moisture. Also all the condensation around the arches just drips on the ground, the endwalls are the only spot where it can drip on wood. So far it is holding up well.
These are pylex foundation screws and you can get them at most hardware stores here in BC Canada. They are meant for the foundation of sheds or decks but work in this application well as long as you keep potential lateral movement in mind and prevent it. I talk about that in an update video on this channel. You also have to make sure they are installed below the frostline which is in our case at around 4feet. You can get 24 inch extentions for them which gets you close to 6ft. They work great in our ground since it is mostly sand and clay but I wouldn't not want to install them in rocky soil. In my opinion it is a great choice under the right circumstances and can save you a lot of time and money.
@@adrianwoodworm Thanks for responding so promptly Adrian. I see they do sell them here in the States for about $50 a piece. (the short ones) Sure could save a lot of labor and materials. Thanks for the leads, and all the great info in your videos! Keep up the great work.
If I remember correctly, I let it dry for two weeks. That being said, the trees have been cut down the previous year and have been already sort of dry since they were dead. My main goal was to dry off the water from the sawmill. I don't own a moisture reader, so I had to trust my guts. Between the dehumidifier right beside it, the heat of the sun and the fan to circulate the air, I felt like it did the job.
@@adrianwoodworm Thanks Adrian. The wood looked pretty seasoned judging by the planer chips. I guess if hasn't de-laminated or shrunk excessively, it was perfect. Nice job. I get the forgiveness on the wood stored inside. All depends on the end result, LOL.
I'm going ton build a dropped Gothic arch this year. Just a new subscriber. Looking forward to an amazing amount of tough tasks this year. Expanding my possibilities and self discipline.
I bought them at homedepot. I added a two foot extension to get down to 5 1/2 feet. The frost goes 4-5feet deep in the winter around here, so I had to make sure to be below that.
I am sorry, I don't understand your question, but if you are asking how the arches and the endwalls are all connected together, I used steel brackets and plates with screws to connect everything.
I know this is an old post but I found the same thing. Pine kept cracking. Then I started ripping it to half inch and laminating two pieces instead of one thicker piece. I cracked way less and found they hold the curved shape better
Thank you! I am sorry, I never made plans for this. And I don't own a computer or laptop so there probably will never be any plans. I appreciate your interest though!
you can still give information on: the length of the arc, the thickness of the board used for the curve. the dimensions of the pieces used in the middle of the arc and the spacing between them. The width and length of the greenhouse. the greenhouse
No rocks in our soil, only endless clay and sand at the base and the added soil was sifted, so no rocks in there as well. My tiller would jump too though if it hits something, but only forward. Either way, I get your point, please don't get me wrong, I am not advertising for tilling barefoot, but I think the risk is very low. I think it would be almost impossible even if you try to hit your feet. The next thing is, if it does hit your feet a pair of shoes won't do that much to protect them unless you have maybe steel toes. Those are just my thoughts and I will never judge someone for being more protective than me (since you most likely will outlive me😄). I am aware of how dodgy this looks like to most.
