*SUGGESTION: Play around with a small amount of BAKING SODA in your smoke composition.* It cools the smoke which makes it hang lower to the ground. Obviously too much would slow the burn too much...so 'play around with it' to find the right dose.
Baking soda is basically inert it doesn't actually do anything. It melts into a solid chunk in the grenade. Baking soda is like 2005 shooting eggs production generation composition, it's completely outdated. The mineral oil he uses serves the same purpose but actually contributes to the smoke. Same if you use wax. Just increase this amount if you want cooler smoke.
I know there is a standard that they be painted *Civil Defense YELL😮W* with a color indicating stripe, when your next video learns Us up on that. I dunno the point of worrying about fitting it in your pouches, those cans come stock with a camo field holder, just dont fall for that citronella scam.
Marine heat shrink usually has some kind of thermal adhesive inside. When you heat up the tubing to shrink it, the glue liquefies during the shrinking process, filling and sealing any void. Great videos. I'm definitely going to try these out.
Too much work. I was making pull ring igniters for devices in the 90s using those little pull string poppers available in some gas stations... Split triple waterproofed cannon fuse using razor blade then insert string popper in the center. Wrap one string around cannon fuse and hot glue in place. Fold split halves of fuse over string popper and put heat shrink tubing over it. Leave other string free to tie into a loop or tie a keychain ring to it. I just saved you a shit ton of time. You're welcome.
You could probably make a metal housing to act as a reusable spring loaded spoon like on an actual grenade when the pin is pulled so the string from the popper gets a consistent pull. Probably more work than its worth but i can imagine some people not pulling the string hard/fast enough to set it off
@@xMrjamjam Nah, there would be more failure in that because you'd need a very strong spring and this just adds complexity to a simple design that already works. All you have to do is yank sharply and follow through and it goes off and lights the cannon fuse. I made hundreds of these in the past with only a few failures.
I'm gonna be heated the minute someone tries to take this channel down. It might be worth considering an alternative method to get information out to a community just in case because "people" hate fun. This is golden information that needs to be shared. Great work on everything
@@andreongoogle958 Which is a double edged sword of course. While its great Odysee doesn't censor, it's also bad in anything you upload there, even a comment is absolutely permanent and not even the Odysee staff can remove it, only hide it if you request it. Anyone however can pull the data off their blockchain though. This also means if you fear gov prosecution you are best using a volatile service instead like russian file sharing websites (often used to share anime pr0n, lol), but if you want to put whistleblower stuff it's great. Odysee of course is compliant with government agencies so don't be surprised if they give the feds your meta data. They are anti-censorship, not pro-privacy.
Look up Boba Straws. You can use it as a sleeve. You can add the ignition inside it. And then put them both into the mixer. Once you added the plaster mix on top and it’s ready for the cover. Just pull the straw out and the ignition piece will still be inside. You can also use the straws to make the baffles holes when pour.
Hmm, I like the vent holes but what I was thinking of doing is making the composition in a paper 3d then putting the paper tube with holes on both sides then putting the tube inside of a 3d printed tube with two end caps, the top one will have 3 baffle holes and the bottom end cap will have 1 bigger one (copy of the M18 smoke) but its not directly being venting from the mix, it's getting extruded through one big hole on both sides but that as it fills up the end caps it will then get filtered through the 3 baffle holes, do you think this is fine or should the three baffle holes be drilled directly into the composition, I'm using KNO3, Sugar and Wax, not sure about what you're using but what do you think of this design I've specified
Thanks for the how to. BTW, since you're just crimping on the pull ring, just leave it off till the very end so it makes final assembly much easier, I.E. won't have to fight the cap to put in the plaster.
Those marine heat shrink tubes have silicone in them that will turn to liquid with high heat and solidify once cooled. Well pump splice kits have the same heat shrinks
Great tutorial! Looking fwd to seeing your how to DIY the "striker" & "igniter" compounds! Also would love to see a build video the delayed fuse igniters you mentioned at the start of this video.
baking soda and superglue (cyanoacrylate) makes extremely tough bonding agent, very useful for creating custom hard seals for whatever, repairing/resurfacing certain type of objects, substituting long epoxy cure times in non-critical applications... Sprinkle some soda where this cement-like material is needed then slowly drip in superglue - as in as small of a drop possible at a time - and then lightly sprinkle the wet and hardening compound with more soda to use up any extra cyanoacrylate and then wipe/blow off excess soda. This will give off a fair amount of heat but nothing dangerous i think. Got this from a Luthier who used to work on famous violins for some of the best in the art - he used to repair bone nuts on lower grade instruments or when time didn't allow for a proper repair. He got forced out of his own trade, even if he most likely was the best in thousands of miles radius, by over increasing cost of buying insurance to allow him to work on some priceless violins and other stringed pieces of junk.
Stumbled across this vid in my feed. Good stuff but you are way over-complicating this ignition method man. During my airsoft days, we used to make these things with electrical tape and hot glue without all the nail polish and crap and they were reusable. I will agree the zippo matches light the best and the heat shrink is the way to go. However, you don't need all the nitrocelulose and scraping strikers or grinding match heads. Get a small matchbox and cut the strikers off (If you have one with 2 strikers then you can make 2-4 igniters depending on the size of the primary match). Bend the striker in half and tie your string around the middle bend or loop it under the bend to make a "U" shape. Size and cut a small piece of non-adhesive heat shrink, cover the match head with the striker, and cover both with the heat shrink while leaving some overhang past the striker. Heat it and now it's done. You can seal it with the smaller pieces of that marine heat shrink and at a pull ring but that's basically all you need and it's 100% reliable. The striker gets pulled out and then you just carefully slip another match in and reseal it. Save money and keep it simple.
That’s not waterproof, and all the ghetto scraping is by request of viewers not wanting to buy a kit. Tying string around a paper match striker is ghettoAF and doesn’t have a prayer of working if wet.
The algorithms randomly recomended your channel to me, I am now subscribed! Thank you for your thourough explanations, these were super interesting to watch. Looking forward to future uploads!!
I. Notice every single person. Is telling you how to do it better lol but most have never tried or built one lmao . They should make their own vids. If they are experts . Anyways. Thanks for the. Video of a bulletproof way to do this . I think you have found. The best way
0:32 I love the text here. It reminds me of Vine-Glo and gives the feeling of "Definitely do NOT use this fuse for any kinds of explosives! Do not use this to put inside of any kind of pipe bomb!"
I'm an avid outdoorsman and over many years of using different brands of storm matches I have found UCO brand the best and cheapest. Zippo makes very good ones but UCOs burn a little longer and are just as reliable if not moreso at about half the price. The "gooey stuff" inside the heatshrink tubing is hot melt glue. They put it in ones for marine and electrical usage to help with adhesion and waterproofing and are usually more expensive that those without it.
Finished making all the fuses that the kit can make. Spot on 50 fuses. Buying these kits are by far the cheapest and easy way to get started. Biggest thing to take way is give it time to dry. It’s easy to get rolling and think you can do it all in a day. You will mess up a few like I did lol
I bought the kit. It came in like 3 days. It has much more improved stuff then in this video!! I'm seriously glad you made some wicked good improvements on the kid, bud! I'll buy another again after I've used the 2 kits I bought!
Why dont you drill the lids before the thing is together? Doing it this way is just asking to accidentally pull the pin before needed. Additionally you could drop a few delrin dowels in the top layer to not even need to drill the holes in the plaster (again reducing the likelihood you get ignition during assembly) lastly crimp the pull ring last so you can freely screw the lid on and off.
All those are awesome suggestions. Are these the rods your talking about? -Acetal Copolymer Plastic Round Delrin Rod 1/4" Diameter, 12" Length - Black Color - Pack 6 (0.25in×12in, 6) a.co/d/5juDk1Z I hope so, bc I just ordered, lol.
@@InventionIncarnate Look to be right. Very few things will stick to delrin and is largely chemically inert so once the top layer of plaster dries you should be able to slip them right out and not have to drill your vents.
lol. the intro is great, but this is actually the very first video I watch on this topic. Came here from the smoke bomb video that the algo recommended to me :) Keep up the great stuff! It's basically diy matches :)
is there any way to make an instant smoke grenade? In a legal and relatively risk-free way. I threw phosphorus smoke grenades during my military service and on a normal wide forest road with trees on both sides it became like a white wall, awesome!
why is my CIA agent trying to recommend me "DIY High Performance Ring-Pull Ignition System" as soon as i gain the knowledge of flash powder being placed in a very suspicious metal can
A red coffee stir straw would work in place to slide over the string. An if it got hotter there’s none of the glue in it to bind the string as the shrink wrap will. An I’m sure you can get the shrink wrap without the hot snot in it also
11:13 "haven't figured out the components of the kit yet" ... i am willing to bet that you got an armstrong-mix kit... basically a disassemble match-book. powdered glass and red phosphor are typical suspects on the matchbox striker surface... potassium chlorate and sulphur would also fit the pattern, if i aint mistaken. antimony trisulfate is something i never heard of in regards to matches. could that be the difference between the safety matches, and the "strike anywhere"-matches?
Very cool...I feel so much safer that ATF bans smoke bombs people use for gender reveal parties. When I first seen that list a couple of months ago, I couldn't help but laugh it was so silly... I guess someone can label them differently and they would be OK...lol Anyway.. I subbed!
Hey skylights said they aren't getting that kit anymore any other suggestions please? I know nothing about the materials really I'm learning. But I'm capable for sure just looking for some guidance
This is to much BS, with this way , remember the term KISS, to much time, if you can find the ingrediants. great vids, the best common sence way to do fun arts, LOL
A friend of mine recently sent me some red phosphorus, and I just made a few pounds of potassium chlorate. I'm going to have to try this. I don't have any antimony trisulfide but I'm sure I can extract some from the box of match books I have. These look great!
Is there a reason you didn't predrill the lids/caps rather than waiting to drill them while you assembled the Smoke Generation device? Seems to me it would be easier than trying to work around the igniter and a tad less risky as well. With the size of hole you drilled through the P of P and the lids/caps perfect alignment shouldn't be necessary I wouldn't think. If the lid rested right on the baffle yes, but with that much gap/headspace no.
go look in the fishing section of a outdoors store for leader making supplies. you want the leader crimps. they come in various sizes for wire / nylon leaders. at the drill baffle holes. how would using short pieces of plastic straw work to avoid this step. ''''place the straw pieces in the compound after loading an before adding baffle material so the baffle material flows around the straws sealing without having to drill.
Cool, you don’t make commercially produced devices and as long as you are using them for purposes of your own pleasure on your own property, they can suck it!
Todays smoke grenades dosent have an ignition system! Its only mixes 2 liquids water and a titan mixture that gives thichest long lasting non toxic smoke. But i still think making it from schratch is more fun instead use a kit!
This looks like the kind of device that would make the airport police very nervous if they stumbled upon one one day…don’t leave that in your suitcase.
After figuring in the amount of fuses you can make with the striker kit and the cost of all materials what does the cost per finished device come out to? Interested to see how colored smoke would work.
OK. Those decices BATF now wants you to have a federal license for all have an EX#, were tested for storage stability, met the guidelines for permissable ingredients and are "registered" as some category of pyrotechnic devices. Probably 1.4 (with limited content weight) since paintballers mostly wouldn't bother to get a BATF license for 1.3. When you make YOUR OWN devices and you don't bother to get an EX#? You have now created what BATF will call an "unregistered explosive device". Which category applies to everything from home made or bootleg large firecrackers to pipe bombs... Yes, you are now looking at federal felony charges if you store or distribute without being in compliance (getting your BATF permit and having proper storage). Additionally, if you put them in your car & take them to your paintball games on the public roads, further charges stemming from a failure to meet DOT compliance may be involved. I do this stuff for a living. BATF/DOT/PHMSA compliance is a large sink of my time- It's all fun and games for amateurs, until the authorities come visit. If you throw up videos of yourself apparently breaking federal explosives laws? You may just have a visit. Why not get a manufacturer of low explosives license and a magazine if doing this stuff appeals to you? Cheaper than lawyers might be later. bringmethenews.com/minnesota-news/minnesota-man-pleads-guilty-to-making-selling-pyrotechnics-on-his-farm
Respectfully, you are mistaken sir. ATF Definition of Explosive materials: Explosives, blasting agents, water gels and detonators. Explosive materials include, but are not limited to, all items in the “List of Explosive Materials” provided for in § 555.23. Homemade Smoke devices are an exempt “explosive device.” Yes, the November 3rd memo restricts CERTAIN smoke devices to regulation, however, those are the commercial devices listed on table 1 of this memo: www.atf.gov/explosives/docs/open-letter/all-fels-nov-2023-notification-previously-exempted-special-explosive/download Furthermore, the definitions of a destructive device: www.atf.gov/file/55446/download#:~:text=%2D%2DThe%20term%20“destructive%20device,except%20a%20shotgun%20or%20shotgun
Algo who? ha-HA! I've been experimenting with these as well as a fog generator ( insert "I'm somewhat of a scientist myself " meme) for the last two Halloweens. I 'm going to try your method, perhaps add some RIT clothing dye for color , see what I can get. dropping $50 for parts of an ignition system? that's a bit steep, adding in the tedious work to create them when I have a few "non electrical ignition devices" to work with. we will see how this weekend goes!
Can u make a hammer style m18 smoke grenade igniter that doesnt use caps, gun powder or commercial fuse. In other words using everyday items that are availiable in even the strictest or nanny states....
Yes, this absolutely can be done, if you have learned the applicable chemistry and have studied related civil & military pyrotechnic ignition and firing train technologies. Will I tell you how? No. Go start reading.
Whats the shelf life on the ignitor kit well as ready made grenades and the composition? Would be pretty important information in that regard cause matchsticks die over time from moisture and exposure to oxygen, well as temperature changes, too much heat etc.
So the igniters should last extremely long, that’s why I add the nitrocellulose nail polish to protect from moisture. The smoke grenade’s verdict is still out, the mineral oil settles a lot. I’m going to explore a solid option.
So the igniters should last extremely long, that’s why I add the nitrocellulose nail polish to protect from moisture. The smoke grenade’s verdict is still out, the mineral oil settles a lot. I’m going to explore a solid option.
