Today I replaced the front brakes on my 2017 Honda Civic. Comprehensive instructions including torque and lubrication. Easy to follow DIY! You got this! Save your money $$$
This video, along with your rear brake video saved me lots of money and time by doing myself. I checked out numerous videos and yours was the best, no comparison. I like how you have a tool list up front. I had mine all laid out. Your pace is perfect- so perfect that I only had to pause the video once and was otherwise able to keep up perfectly with you. Thanks a lot!!!
My wife and I just got done changing out the front pads and rotors on my 2018 SI. Thank you so much for this guide, it was an awesome resource to follow along to.
Probably the most informative and well explained video I’ve seen out there. Thank you for taking the time to share this with us! Swapped out my pads and rotors thanks to you! Appreciate it Rob!
I can't thank you enough! You are a saint for putting up such an informative guide. I was able to replace my front brakes and rotors no problem on my 2017 Civic. Going to be watching your rear brake guide next. Thank you again and may many blessings come your way. God bless you.
Very helpful video. The way you explain everything step by step is great. Plus the camera placement so we can actually see what you're doing is really good. Thank you greatly
This has been a very thorough and helpful video, Rob. My 2016 Civic is due for front brakes at (unbelievably!) 191k MILES. Lot of highway travel obviously since this is their first service. And considering the OEM pads/rotors served me this long, I opted to go with Honda parts. Picked them up online at a dealer in Ohio for significantly cheaper than my local dealer too. Thanks again and keep the great maintenance videos coming!
I used your CR-V brake change videos to change the brakes on the wife's 2017 CR-V and was pretty happy to see you have videos online to change the brakes on my 2016 Civic. Same great quality, lighting, explanation and easy to listen to. Much appreciated that you took the time to video document the process as it saves me many $100's on dealer prices and I like the satisfaction of doing it myself. Again, great job and Happy Canada Day from out east in St. John's.
This video is great! I'm still very new to cars and have only learned basic things. I feel way more confident in attempting to change my brakes myself! Thanks so much!
Great video! Very thorough, and your naration was very clear. I was surprised when you said you didn't have a camera operator because I was able to clearly see everything you were doing. Thanks for taking the time to make this for everyone.
Hey Rob! Thank you so much for this detailed video! I was able to mostly follow it with no issues. On one of my rotors, the head of the screw that holds the rotor on has somehow gotten stripped, so for now I've just put on the new pads and left on the old rotor (I know, I know), until I can find a tutorial that describes how to properly drill that screw out. Seeing as I had no issues with the other side, I'm confident that once I have the tools and the know-how to properly drill that screw out that I'll be able to get that new rotor on. Many thanks Rob! You've not only helped me save a bunch of money, but also given me the confidence to tackle more and more of my own repairs 😊
You can just drill the screw out. You don’t actually need it. It’s for assembly at the plant. It is a little easier to assemble with the screw in place. Once you drill the head out you can remove the rotor and remove the rest of the screw with vice grips. Thanks for your comments and good luck with your repair! Cheers! Rob
Great video, very informative and thorough. One thing that I would add is that when you had the lower caliper pin that was tight when being put back in, that was likely caused by that rubber boot that Honda puts on only one of those pins per caliper...not sure why. That part is replaceable and should come with a service kit as over time, it will tend to swell and inhibit the free movement of the pin. Changed the rear brakes on my 2003 Pilot and had that issue where the rubber sleeve swelled to the point to where the pin would hardly move, and only then realized that the service kit I bought to do the job included those sleeves as well as the boots. Also would want to make sure that high temp silicone grease is used on the pins so that it will not deteriorate the rubber. Thanks for the videos!
Great Video! Excellent detailing. Happy you did not use a hoist, I don’t have one at home to work on my car so this was more realistic. Thought your camera work was excellent, great lighting too.
It was an excellent video! Camera angles were spot on, audio was crystal clear! Please make another video showing how to replace rear brake pads on the same car.
Already done. Here is the link ---> ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-kyQFCIbVdYA.html Thanks for your comment! Good Luck with your repair! Cheers! Rob
Changing the pads and rotors on my 2016 civic ex, about 160,000km on them, still about 25% pad life left but the rotors are worn. Your video helped a lot. I’m upgrading to vented rotors and ceramic pads, 4 wheel kit from summit racing for $258 free shipping.
This is one of the BEST videos i've watched on tutorials... like ever. I especially liked the little touches and knowledge bits as to why somethings is done a certain way. I probably still wont change my brakes myself due to liability but you're definitely inspired me to look into project cars just to have fun with it. Great job and great video!
I will do it myselft thank so muchi saw your video doing the rear brakes a little bit difficult than this but i can do it Great video and explanation 👍 😃
When pushing that piston back in, we might want to loosen the bleeder screw. I damaged my ABS unit (expensive) on a different car, pushing the fluid through the ABS backwards.
Thank you so much for your video!! By far the BEST video I've watched and very thorough and step by step. I have a 2016 Honda Civic Sedan Touring. The "STEALERSHIP" wanted to charge me couple of thousands for the pads and rotors and labor. Would it be the same process also for the rear brakes? How are the CarQuest Pads and Rotors working so far? THANK YOU! YOU ROCK!!
Get the premium pads and rotors. They will be the OEM equivalent. Look for the videos on air and cabin filters here on my channel. Here is the link for the rear brakes ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-kyQFCIbVdYA.html
Excellent video, if I put everything back together just how you did and it makes a cranking noise when driving what could have went wrong went putting back together ?
I’m not sure. Check the brake pads and make sure the pad is against the disc and not backwards (I’ve seen pictures of that). Make sure the inner pad has the squealer on it and is in the right position. Sometimes you can get a stone between the splash shield and the rotor and that can make noise. Also make sure you didn’t accidentally bend the splash shield in against the rotor. If all else fails I would take everything apart again, inspect all the parts and put it back together carefully. Good Luck! Fingers crossed 🤞
Excellent video, thank you for taking the time to record this and explain it so well. I also so your instructions on the rear brakes... those are next. Is there a risk to having the piston boot protrude a bit over while pushing the piston back? I seemed to do that on both sides 😕, but of course I imagine now that the car is driving fine, it probably worked itself back into place.
The boot seal edge should not be passed the edge of the piston. You only have to push the piston back enough to clear the new pads. Sometimes the boot expansion folds look like they stick out a bit and that is usually ok but not desired. The boot keeps dirt out and tears in the boot can cause early caliper replacement. Calipers are cheap and easy to replace however, so don’t worry. When you do the rear put less pressure on the c clamp and check your progress near the end to prevent that from happening. If you can’t fit the caliper over the pads then give it another 1/2 turn with the c clamp. Good luck with your repair! Cheers! Rob
Hello, I changed my front brake pads and was going to do the rotors as well but noticed I got the wrong ones so didn’t install them. Everything is great except for the fact my brakes feel like they are sticking now.
My mate is a mechanic and will do all 4 of my cars wheels, he says for free, while I supervise, fetch, carry and make the drinks. Watching this I recon I should pay him for 2 hours minimum. A local garage wants waaay more and then they make on the parts as well and the main Dealer quotes silly money. Thanks
Rob, do you loosen or remove the brake fluid filler cap? Or is that bad or not necessary? I've always changed my own brakes. Saw some great stuff in your video. I've never used anti seize, but I will this time. Thanks for the torque settings!
No I didn't loosen the brake booster cap because you aren't adding any fluid to the system and it won't overflow either. Don't forget to do the in car brake calibration sequence at the end of the video. Good Luck with your repair! Cheers! Rob
Hello! Thanks for the video! No errors with this method? Also can you please tell me what other honda model has the same rear brake pads? I know the fronts match the 02-06 crv's, I need to know what matches the rears. Thank you!
These are the actual Honda Tech Instructions on how to do the service without HDC (computer) so if you follow the instructions and calibrate the EPB then you won't have an issue, Did both My civic and CRV and a friends civic - all good no codes and super easy. I'm not sure what pads are common but I hear the new Si's use the Odyssey brake set up (huge rotors, calipers and pads) Good Luck with your repair! Rob
I changed my rotors and pads step by step, there are grinding noise only when I stop the car, and there's no noise when I drive it and try to slow down. Do you know what's wrong?
Hard to say from here but a common mistake people make is putting the pads in the wrong position. One set has a pad with the “squealer” and one without. Sometimes people put them in the opposite sides. Another problem that can happen is getting a stone stuck in between the pad and the rotor. When I’m doubt, pull it apart and have another look. Good luck!
Do you flush your braking fluid or just top it up? I'm also in Canada, have a 2017 ex civic, and does not look like the bleeder valves have ever been touched. They are rusted, etc, Canadian environement. Probably look like yours. Would you bother to flush the system yourself? Have a mechanic do it, or just remove and top up the master cylinder?
I had the dealer swap out the brake fluid during one of the services. I got an extended warranty (CVT tranny is new to Honda, direct injection and turbo is also new tech for them) So I get them to change oil and tranny oil to keep the warranty in good standing.
Make sure the pads are the right sides and the right orientation. You should change the rotors also when you change the pads. If you used the old rotors it may make noise for awhile.
No. The reservoir is filled to the proper amount before the brakes are actuated when the car is made. So when you push the piston back the reservoir is at the same level when it was built. The only issue is if someone has overfilled the reservoir. When in doubt open it up.
I am about to change my rotors and pads on my civic and was wondering if the front pistons needed to spin while being compressed? I have a piston compression kit so if it needs to spin I'll need to figure out what size adaptor I need to use. Thank you!
I recommend swapping them. If they are warped they will pulse, if there are groves you will have to change pads faster and if you don’t lube the pins they can cause premature wear. Brakes are the most important thing on your car.
Hi rob, was wondering if changing the rotors is a must if I just wanted to change out the pads? I'm not having any rotor issues, just time to change the pads
@@cnelson2334 You should always replace both pads and rotors at the same time. You can check pad wear by popping off the wheel and looking into the centre hole of the brake caliper. Look at the pads. They have a groove in the middle. If you see the grove on both pads there is life left. If there is no grove it’s time for a change. I think I show that in the video. Good Luck!
Yes but you can get them from any car parts store. (shop around for best prices) I recommend premium parts but you don't need to get the ceramic coated rotors. You will have to order pads and rotors, get some caliper grease and brake cleaner while you're there.
The brake pad on my honda car start squeky after 40k km. (Still the factory installed disc and brake pad. Honda SC did greasing, 2 days later still squeky. Any recommendation?
Oh there are so many things that can lead to that. Dirt, stones stuck in pad, bad pad material like a hard piece, rusty rotors, not driving enough (causing rusty rotors). Sometimes it will disappear over time, sometimes the only way is to go new. I just did that after the Covid shutdown (hence this video) as my rear brakes had rusted (because the car just sat for almost 2 months) and the squealing was driving my wife crazy. Clean them yearly (full service taking them apart and lubricating them). You can also lube the backs of the pads at the contact points on the caliper and on the piston ring. Best of Luck! Cheers! Rob
@@robsgaragewoodworkin Thanks for the detail explaination and recommendations. Its just a little 3 years on it, I will go for the full brake service, it never got that. Thanks Metz
Do the front brakes need calibration after the whole replacement? I didn’t see the steps on the video, only in the video for the rear. If so how does one calibrate them?
How many miles did this car have when you changed the brake pads and brake disc? The pads look good but the discs are in bad condition so I was wondering.
Getting ready to change the pads and rotors on my car using your videos. Question for you: what’s the best way to make sure you don’t push in pistons too far in? Great video, by the way.
That is a good question. Push them back until the piston is just a bit further out than the body of the caliper. If it’s not far enough you won’t be able to put the caliper back on with the pads in. If it’s too far back the boot will stick out further than the piston (we don’t want that to happen). So basically not quite flush but close and keep an eye on the rubber boot. 😬. Don’t worry you’ll be fine 😉
Hey rob, I followed your steps and changed the brakes everything seems to be working good except when I turn on the car I’m getting all these sensors. Hill assist start problem, brake system problem, brake hold system problem, power steering problem, vehicle stability problem. Is there something I did wrong or touched?
At the end of the video there are calibration instructions. If you don’t calibrate them you will get codes. Also make sure you have fully set the coupler.
@@brandonsampson5708 oh. Well then. Ok that sequence that goes through every possible fault is something different. I’ve had that on both my Hondas. Had to get the valves cleaned. It was a turbo issue. I have the extended warranty so it was a freebee.
They don't have new printed manuals anymore. The only source is direct from Honda or leaked on the internet. The best place to look is on Honda forums.
Not for the front brakes. Service mode is for the electric parking brake which is only on the rear brakes. You can manually change the rear brakes with the EPB or you can use a scan tool to place them into service mode. I have a video for each method on both the CRV and Civic on my channel.
So you don’t have to remove any brake lines or bleed the brakes after this? Been looking to get my calipers powder coated and didn’t want the removal process to be a huge hassle.
No you don't to do the pad and rotor change, but If you remove the calipers you will have to pinch the brake line, remove the brake hose and you should get new crush washers for the oil bolt and you'll have to bleed the system and top up the fluid. (still easy)
Here is the rear brake video. The EPB has special instructions and there are different torque specs. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-kyQFCIbVdYA.html
I think that the springs are to help push the pads off the rotor for less wear and better fuel economy. Not sure how effective they are but I would definitely reuse them. If you broke one I wouldn’t really be too worried. The older brake designs didn’t have them. Good luck with your repair! Cheers! Rob
The brakes are the most important safety system on your car. If you want the ABS to perform properly I would suggest changing the rotors or having them turned down.
Amazing! Honda has really good brakes and they tend to last a long time but you got a lot more miles than normal. Time to switch those elderly brakes out. LOL!
@@cslim117 I have the same year Honda Civic…close to 145K miles. I figure it’s over 5 years so probably a good time to replace them. Look at it this way…put new ones on and don’t worry about it for another 5 years. If you’re like me, you drive alot of hwy miles and don’t have to use your brakes nearly as often as someone who drives mainly city/stop & go traffic.
