You, sir, are an exemplary explainer. I’ve been putting off this task for five weeks. I just watched this. Then I clicked subscribe. (I only have about 30 subscriptions...). Respect.
Thanks - This helped me install them. I didn't use the crimps but rather spliced each wire and soldered them in then taped and used some heat shrink. I had to extend the wires from the resistor as I didn't have a close mounting point that was metal.
This is the exact video i needed. You explained this to a T perfectly. Now I can confidently install the resistor and finally get rid of that annoying hyper flash. Thank you kind sir!
Your a live saver man thank you! I went and picked up a multimeter and the resisters tonight to fix the issue on my jeep. I had known putting LED in where halgonens were stock it would trick the car but I didn’t know I needed a resistor. Anyway, thank you!
How is your video not the number one spot on this subject?! Very informative video and now I feel confident on fixing the hyperflash issue the other videos didnt really go in depth as this video great content!
thank you so much! that helped incredibly, to help anyone out that has different color wires, I had black wire, green/red, and brown. connected brown to green/red and worked perfectly. thanks again for making this video.
I was having so many problems trying to get my turn signals to flash and this video helped so much. You would think some directions would come in the box but thanks it was a huge help
Thankyou for the detailed info. I went through several videos before finding yours. Yours was the only one to tell me why or why not to resistor-bridge the patking light wire. I know that you said it would overheat but why not if I can mount the resistor to metal so that it will not melt anything. Won't the reduced wattage extend the life of the leds?
It can sometimes be easier to just change the blinker relay to an LED compatible one, a new blinker can flash all bulb or all led or a mixture of both.
Even by doing so some vehicles still need at least the front directionals to utilize resistors on them. My 03' Tahoe for example. I have a LM487 led flasher I just installed and still have some problems with flashrate, led's in mirrors only partially lit and dim glow in dash. I will be installing resistors in morning to correct the problem.
This video cleared a lot of concerns for me. My only other concern is, I've seen two wire lights used as marker and turn signal. How are they able to do that?
Thank you maybe this will fix my 93 CB750 led rear signal light problem. Literally the same 3 wire setup without a diode configuration in the headlight.
Thanks for this great video. I just have a question. I installed Sylvania LED turn signal bulbs three each side (one front two in the back) for a Chevy Tahoe. I believe I need a load resistor for each LED BULB that means six of them in the car. My question is how can I figure out what watts should I buy (Sylvania sells 5 Watt and 10 Watts load resistor, and one more with no specific rating) each is 12V 6 Ohms. But I don’t know actually what to buy, and now I see you’ve got 50 watts resistor and now I am more confused
Very good video. Was wondering what the hell happened when I installed led turn signals on my klx 250 and from forums and Google I ended up here. Thanks liked subscribed and shared
Great video and thank you for explain everything. Just want to add a little something. I just did this mod and everything works great as described but noticed that these electric clamps suck better of just soldering them together to get a better contact point. Again thank you for the video
It is important that the wire clamps match the wire size applied. The metal contact inside the clam has a slot which is a specific width. If you use a clamp with a slot too wide, on a wire too thin, the connection will be poor. Be sure to match the wire gauge with the clamp gauge. But yes, if you can solder, it will always be better than a crimp connection.
+Enlight Automotive thank you for the quick reply. That is a very good point. I saw the slot on the clamp but I figured that it would just splice the wire. I also noticed that the car wire was very thin 🤔 but one side works fine the other is hyper flashing. I might not have put enough pressure to cut the thin line. Thanks
These work, but the much better, cheaper and safer way to fix this situation is to just buy a new Turn Signal Relay that is rated for LED bulbs. Literally, that's it. You don't have to buy a resistor for every bulb, and install all of them, just pull out the old relay and plug in the new one. I drive a 1992 Toyota Pickup and replaced every single light to an LED, and had to either buy a bunch of these things, or just one LED relay.
I tried that, but couldn't find one specific to my 2004 1.8s Nissan sentra. I bought a generic one, and the blinkers work but only when the headlights are off. As soon as I turn on the headlights, the blinkers stay ON. But I can sort of get the blinkers to work my manually switching the blinker on and off. Any ideas ???
Thanks, this fixed the hyper flash problem on my 09 Altima Coupe taillight blinker, 2 wire system. I love my car but wow - Nissan, at least this model - does not leave you much room to clamp down that metal part away from anything that can melt. Would love to upgrade my front lights..again not quite an easy process.
I just purchased new headlight assembly’s with led turn signals on my 2013 Mercedes-Benz GLK 350. They came pre-wired with resistors but, they do not work. Any suggestions?? Tom
I left my resistors hanging hitting the plastic and rubber of my housing but what I did I put some air duct foil tape all around where I know the resistor will touch. It works really good and you can't notice it being there only if you open and take out the taillight housing.
I completely understand your video thank you. My question is, what if I have 2 signal taillight bulbs on the driver and passenger side? Like the 99-04 mustangs? There is actually 3 bulbs per side but only 2 are for the signal. For a grand total of 6 bulbs for the taillights. The kit I bought came with 6 LED bulbs and 2 resistors. Do I actually need a total of 4 resistors? 1 for each bulb? Resistors are the same exact ones used in your video. Thank you so much for any info, I am electrically declined.
Thanks for the fine instructional video. I replaced both the front and rear turn signal bulbs on my 2004 Lexus GX470 and installed the load resistors as you described. No flicker or signal errors whatsoever. So try and figure this. Most people probably wouldn't have even found this "issue". To check my work I left the hazard lights flashing for about five minutes to make sure all was good before remounting the rear tail light housings. I also wanted to see how hot the resistors really get after hearing all the warnings. Checking the rear drivers side first, the resistor was as cool as the weather here in NY. Mid forties. It was cold. Checking the rear passenger side, it was screaming hot. I've had them in over a day with absolutely no issues at all regarding the turn/hazard light operation. They work perfectly. But I can't help but worry that something is not right. Any explanation for this. Please advise
Es tolerable resistencia al agua? Por ejemplo, en condiciones de lluvia? Me pregunto cómo se instala detrás del faro corre ese riesgo. O es inofensivo?
I have a question if I removed the resistors and put the original bulbs back (not LED) will they work normally like how they came? Please need an answer
thank you nice video very informing! just a short question. If you connect an led strip or bulb in addition to an existing bulb (for instance installing a thin led strip with brake and turn signal) by using the wires going to the existing bulbs isn't the existing bulb going to absorb most of the power and thus prevent the rapid flashing side effect?
If you are simply adding an LED strip, there is no need for resistors if you are using the factory incandescent bulb. The incandescent bulb is the resistor in this case.
10:25 "metal to metal helps with heat dissipation" if it's winter time and cold out but not summertime in Phoenix. I would suspend them in the air instead.
I seem to have the opposite problem. Installed replacement 1157 LED bulbs in my '39 Studebaker. Signal light work, but tail lights do not light up. Any suggestions will be appreciated.
I have a 95 jeep wrangler and I installed led tail lights. they work fine as do the brake lights, but the turn signals don't blink at all. Will a load equalizer fix this problem? Thanks.
I have noticed that on the Prius they use LED bulbs for the stop, backup and running lights. However the turn signal lamp is a standard incandescent. I'm surprised that no one has come out with a automotive flasher module that is no current driven.
latovaas There are several type of LED flasher modules available. However different cars use different types of flasher modules. Its actually possible to modify most factory flasher modules so that you don't need to use resistors. I have done this before and it works well. However on some vehicles it is very difficult to access the flasher module.
Hope you can answer my question. I have an old car, there is no ground wire, the body is the ground. I have hooked up my resistors to the flasher wire and the body bracket of the light. The resistor gets really hot but the lights continue to hyper flash. Do you know the answer? Thanks,
Most of these smaller gold type resistors are not designed to be run continuously. Only pulsed loads are safe. If you hook them up to a fog light circuit they will get extremely hot and wont last long.
Hi there... Thanks for that valuable video :) I'm planning to replace my turn signal halogen bulb that is located in the rear view side mirror, with an LED one. It's W5W T10. Everything related to wiring is clear enough, however, my question is: Everybody tells it gets very hot and shouldn't be installed on a plastic surface! Where exactly should I install the resistor, while everything in the mirror's body is PLASTIC?!!!
+Hazem ElDerwy If you are doing a T10 W5W bulb, you may not need resistors. In fact, I'd highly suggest you try putting a standard LED bulb in without resistors first and see if it it works properly. Most Turn signal resistors are designed to replace a 21W Halogen bulb. Not a 5W halogen bulb. So you might actually cause damage to your electronics by putting a resistor there. You can use a standard LED bulb, or you can also consider getting a "CANBUS" style T10 LED bulb which has build-in resistors.
Hey, if the 1157 brake bulb and 3157 blinker bulb consume 27watts on high light, and 7 watts on low light each, can I use 35 watts load resistors for the High light instead of the 50watts one?
God bless you. I've been wondering the same thing. Also thinking of adding additional lights. I could use fender and or grill lights. Perhaps 21 watts is close enough to 27? It would be a shame to switch to led only to gain some brightness and lifespan throwing the rest to some stupid resistor to generate heat
the Resistors Wattage Rating and is defined as the amount of heat that a resistive element CAN dissipate for an indefinite period of time without degrading its performance. So 50 watts means it can handle up to 50 watts. Does mean it operates at 50 watts.
Trying to do this on a Harley. Can I mount the resistor directly to the new LED wires then plug them in? The resistors actually fit behind the LED lights right in the light housing.
I have a question. I need your advice please. I have installed led rear taillamps in my 1941 chevy. To make them actaully flash, I had to wire in each circuit, l&r, a standard type3 clearance lamp. They work now. Only thing is, the dash indicator lights don't work. Wire in resisters?
OK, I have a 2005 TJ Wrangler, it has the 7443 three-wire socket (Front turn signal and park light in one) that had a factory incandescent bulb, I changed it over to a LED on the front and of course, hyperflash began. I am waiting for load resisters to arrive, but when I do, do I need to worry about the parking light being on constantly on the front lights? I did upgrade to a heavy duty flasher/turn signal relay also. Now the rear lights are really hard to get to since the wire cables are shielded by Jeep beyond belief, so I might just keep them incandescent (back-up light on top, turn/park on bottom inside turn signal box) Right now, until I get everything running normal, I am not driving it, ran a few tests as I went along and the electrical system is going crazy, doing things I have never seen! Is a LED flasher/turn signal relay compatible with incandescents?
My LED taillights came with resistors. They work fine until I turn on the parking lights. With the lights on, the blinkers hyperflash. With the lights off, the blinkers work fine. Any suggestions?
Can you help a buddy of mine just stuck the end pieces of the resistors in the same slot of the ground and turn signals. But now it's saying battery changing that didn't happen before
Thank you for your video - I couldn't figure out if the resistor is meant to be parallel or series. But in all honesty, the LED's aren't all that it is cracked up to be, especially since you have to fool the system with the resistor so that it draws as much current as a bulb. Also, the price of the resistor and LED is like 5x the price of a bulb. It's installed in my van, and I'll leave it in, but I don't know what motivated me to go this route...
@@alandoangatiah5751 But the resistor is to draw more current, so that the vehicle computer doesn't flash the LED. So you don't score anything by drawing less power, and if it costs a lot more than a normal bulb, you aren't scoring anything unless you are lucky enough to have the LED match your reflectors and actually get better light.
@@dougerrohmer in this case, yes, you don't get anything by using the resistor, but if you buy the LED Flasher Relay, you get the bonus of less power draw and no need for any extra devices.
if my indicators only have a positive wire because all of the lights are grounded together, do i just ground the other end of the resister into the body of the car, or do i have to find the appropriate wire?? mine actually work fine without the resisters, but since putting in an electronic dash the indicator display keeps flashing like night rider, so i was hoping fitting the resisters might help out thanx
Could you help me pls? I bought a led tail light with intergrated turn signals for my Kawasaki er6n 2007 and I have to buy load resistors. 2 resistors: 25W 8Ω 12V each, wouldn't be right? I have seen photos with similar tail lights which packets include a pair of resistors, 20W 5Ω 12V each. What should I do???
INCORRECT... AN LED IS A DIODE. This is the only real issue becausd power can only go one direction thru the bulb and the computer is sending power while checking current but ALSO looking for continuity to ground thru the bulb and if it cannot do all three you get a code and the on-off-on-off flicker. Even the older cars have hyper flash because the relay biases power thru the bulb and it cannot do this with an l.e.d or a circuit with a diode in it. Because though it can send power thru the bulb, the relay cannot see ground thru the bulb so after the first blink it goes rapid fishing away because relay has no ground to keep it on the "off" cycle thru a diode. therefore the computer nore the flash relay can use this as it is an incomplete circuit one way but is propper the other way. You need a sure circuit via a wire/ filament resistance and not a diode as the power thru the flasher goes both directions in each bulb, this is how it is designed to my understsnding... for instance you should be able to easily replicate this by puttung the factory bulb back in and put a diode in line on either wire and have the same issue hyper flash and code, because there needs to be a ground reference. I figured out I can use a 25 ohm 25watt resistor that has very little heat due to its low power consumption @14.7 volts due to its high resistance value and have no hyper flash or codes. And the resistor draws less power than the bulb that was in the socket to begin with and it was because I was nervous with the heat the normal resistors is get online so now I order specifically 30ohm resistors (25watt for turns and low power bulbs) and 30ohm 50watt resistors for headlights (though im sure the 25watt resistors would be sufficient on both applications without all the unnecessary heat and waste of power with over sized resistors and severely under rated resistance values. I would "never go less than 16ohms resistance on a bulb circuit to correct a fish issue or code issue. Just plain stupid and id say that's what a non educated person would do 6 ohm and 50 watts is just nuts The blinker isn't even 50 watts! My resistors draw less than 5amps and correct the issue safely! With less heat
Yep, there's not much point changing to LEDs if it's going to require a low value shunt resistor and end up drawing the same amount of current anyway. The higher resistance resistors are good idea. But unfortunately I think the kit manufactures will stick with the low resistance resistors, which are equivalent to the resistance of the incandescent bulb being replaced because it will ensure compatibility to any vehicle. The better option but dearer than using stunt resistors would be changing the blinker unit to an LED type, if the vehicle uses them.
This is not always true as far as needing the resistor. It all depends on the type of flasher unit that's installed on the car/truck. If its the old style type it uses a bi-metallic metal contact inside that when the contacts are closed it heats up causing it to flex and open the contacts (turning off the light), when it cools off it then closes again lighting the light (blinker). True that when you change the bulb from incandescent (not halogen) it changes the load on that flasher causing what you referred to as "Hyper flashing". The same thing happens when you hook up a trailer, the increased load can cause the flasher to flash at a higher rate. The reason I said the above is because if the car/truck is equipped with a "Electronic" flasher it is designed to flash at the same rate no matter the load that's put on it. They sell them at most any auto parts store to correct the above turn signal flashing issues when towing a trailer. installed the provided resistor dose also correct the issues and I'm glad to see that you provide them for those that feel they have to splice it inline with the turn signal lead. I saw another person post about it being installed in the brake light circuit? There is no need for that because the brake light system is a consent 12vdc simply applied to the LED bulb with no flasher in the circuit.
i did it step by step just like the video said. made sure i didn't mess anything up. and now none of my turn signals work. my hazards dont work its not making any kind of sounds when i put turn signal on. if anyone knows why or how that could've happened i would really appreciate it.
So my light has like 5 wires on a Honda Accord my turn signal keeps flashing fast I try the blue and the green it don’t work when I do it with the blue it works but it gets hot can you help
