@@danielwharton4088 question for you, why would you even want to put a comment on like that? I take it you simply watch videos of people trying to help others with tips and advise and simply criticise them. You are the epitome, not just of a troll but an ignorant, boorish, know it all. If you are indeed a professional builder, painter or what have you, make your own video, show people how’s its done, give some good advise and I’m sure it will make you feel good, so hey, stop criticising others and be a little nicer, what do you say.
@@danielwharton4088 so what if you have 40 yrs in business? Does t mean your good at it. Lol I mean your looking at these videos your self... sooo that says a lot 😂 40 years in business get your watching RU-vid videos!? Haha get out of here!! 😂 so foolish. I hope you learned something today. Good luck & I won’t be replying back either. Good video btw! Be nice 🤗
@@danielwharton4088 "40 years in the business" That doesn't mean jack. Let's see the work you've done. Maybe post a video of how it's "supposed" to be done instead of being a giant C. O. C. K.
Thank you! I wish I knew your name, I love how much I learned from how you teach. I'm 73 years old and I'm going to do my kitchen myself. I love painting and did my LR, BR, Bath R., and hallway walls. I did it all twice and also all the doors. Even the baseboards and no taping. I hate taping so it takes a bit longer. I did have the ceiling done because it's too hard for me. I love the look of fresh paint and the satisfaction of doing it myself. So glad I can use some of your technique s.
I watched this video several times in pieces and it was invaluable to my project. They turned out better than expected! I learned several things along the way as a beginner, which I’ll share now. DO NOT SKIMP ON ROLLER QUALITY. I used a Wooster high density foam roller after using a cheaper one initially and there was a world of difference. After getting the technique down, the final texture was minimal and could be mistaken for a professional spray job to the untrained eye. My sister had hers sprayed by a pro and I actually prefer the slight texture, not to mention it’s easier to repair nicks and scratches. I suggest painting in sections if you’re a beginner, starting with the area you care about least. My technique improved greatly by the end. The only part I wasn’t 100% happy with were the detail areas that required a brush. Slight brush marks are still visible and the paint is not quite as thick in those areas. I considered using a can of spray paint in those areas like the video suggests, but ultimately decided against it since I was 75% done by that point. It may have been worthwhile. Most importantly, this project was not hard, it just required a lot of patience.
I followed this Guy step by step and the results were absolutely fantastic. It is hard-work and a lot of patience is needed you also need a station/ room Garage shed for prepping etc
Here's a tip on the rim of the paint can that gets filled with paint: Take a small nail and tap a few holes in the rim space with the nail and a hammer. This allows the paint in the rim to drip back into the can, and when you put the lid back on, it pushes that paint through the holes, keeping the rim cleaner. You can also drill holes with a small drill bit, instead. This is definitely one of the best videos on this subject, and I have some professional experience, so I kinda know.
This is exactly what I've been looking for!! I've been deep in the rabbit hole of research and getting more confused and overwhelmed. This was absolutely perfect and I feel so much more confident. Thank you!!
Just finished my cabinets yesterday and I never expected the amount of time and work they would need. Definitely a project! Great video as always with great explanations
1. Use Acetone if the paint comes off it is water base if not oil base 2. Mark the cabinet doors and mark them and go from left to right 3. Set up your work station 4. Take the doors off (if the hinges are in there without catch and release just leave the hinges in the frame 5. Make sure the plastics in the OAK are LEFT ALONE cause it will be hard to put back, even during painting 6. Remove handing, and have everything into a freezer bag and again label them, also use marker to identify lower you can mark that with marker too. 7. Drawers: first taking the handle off (after marking and everything) 8. Any Plastics other than the one that holds the screws for hinges should be removed and you can always use plastics like protectors you can always add later. 9. You have to clean the cabinet door to not trap the grease behind the paint you can use any chemical degreaser. Especially around the handle. 10. Sanding you can use palm sanders and the sponges. For sponges (you press it against the details of the door to get them sanded). (use good mask). 11. If you can vacuum your sander that’d be great. 12. You’d add the sanding paper (120) and sand the main area, it’d be better especially with a rectangular sander 13. You don’t need to over sand to the bare wood, as long as it is sanded it should be good. Like going over every piece couple of times 14. Make sure you do the sides 15. After sanding, again clean the wood again with the degreaser and also use blower to make sure primer doesn’t compete against dust 16. You can set it up on a box or something so you can rotate it easily. 17. Add primer by brushing and cutting the doors especially around the crack corners (where cabinet door gets depth) and then feather them away. OR you can use Primer Spray just around the hard areas and then use brush for the rest of it 18. Make sure that you get the sides (like 14). 19. And then use the roller for the rest of it. Now the roller can have a lot of paint in it (or primer), so you can do 2 or three and then come back and use the roller to absorb back the paint. 20. Let them dry, 21. Use 220 sand paper and as little as possible, every spot being only touched once. Or you can use sanding block and sand it lightly. And sides 22. Use a paper towel or something to get out the dust 23. Cutting the edges and hard parts. Tap couple of times on top of the edge, Push the brush into the cabinet and pull 24. The secret is NOT USING a lot of paint. And using the brush all over to make sure the painting brush strikes aren’t shown but usually the new paints act like self leveling 25. Use roller to go over the cabinet door. Almost without any paint on it. don’t forget the sides 26. Wait for like couple of hours to dry. 27. Come back with another sand, cut and paint again. 28. If you use regular latex paint you may need something to protect the door, but if you use melamine paint you wont need that. Cheers. Really good job explaining this. I took note and I am gonna leave it here, hopefully it will be useful for someone. If I am missing something let me know:
Could take out drawers easy.. Lift the front a bit and pull.. When putting back tilt a bit and have a look if it is in place with "tracks" (cannot recall the name)...
So, I wanted to come here and say THANK YOU! I always had the idea that painting my own cabinets would be such an impossible task to do... but after watching and studying your video like 4 times, I DID IT! and honestly thanks so much to you! They look like I just replaced my cabinets ✨💕
Mine are the original that were put in when my house was built in 1979. I’m surprised that they are still in pretty good condition. Not the new shaker style everyone loves, but they have a bit of character that I like. When I take them down to refinish then I’m going to have to deal with unscrewing them. If that proves to be a problem I’m probably going to have to paint in place.
I'm about halfway through my kitchen doing this, everything I've experienced has been exactly what you outlined here, such a great video. I keep doing touchups on the doors over and over thinking I should have more coats (doing 3 before hanging) but overall I love it. Dark cherry cabinets painted to modern white with our black granite countertops, can't wait till it's done!
I'm with you. I painted kitchen cabinets in 1987 and swore I'd never do it again! This is for very patient people with a lot of energy - that's not moi!
@@angelinaesposito3058 Not everyone feels that way. For this kind of thing I will happily pay someone else to do it. Not because I can't (I'm a pretty good painter), but because I hate it and I have better uses for my time.
Superb in-depth insights and explanations! Love the paint technology and process explanations, discussions and alternative options etc. Tips and tricks-of-the-trade galore! Jeff is a true expert. A brilliant video to watch and save for later reference. Thank you Jeff!
You showed painting the front of the doors, but not the back. How long did you let them dry, before you turned them over to do the other side? By the way, this video is FANTASTIC! Thank you for taking the time to make this for us, newbies! :)
Awesome job, well explained, you need a show, great project to release the Covid stress.... hope I don't get hurt (trying to steal Acetone from the bathroom 🤫)
Before I start a painting project I always slip on a pair of natural gloves. Nitrile on the palms and breathable cotton on the top of the hand. Being a professional painter and working in a paint company made me realize how valuable it was to always have these gloves on hand.
I’m glad I watched this! I was actually getting ready to watch more drywall videos because that’s the stage I’m on in my bathroom remodel. But I’m going to be painting the vanity too, which is solid oak. Lots of great tips in this vid. Jeff is my go-to guy for DIY Renos!
He’s inspiring me to paint my cabinets now. I was quoted $7,000. I’m definitely painting it myself now. I already painted my walls after watching his other videos.
TIP: When you take the lid off your paint can, take a nail and nail a hole in the rim groove, in three different places. When you poor your paint out, the paint that sits in the rim groove will drain back into the can. When you put the paint can lid back on your can, the lid will seal the holes closed. I've used this method for years and it works great.
I just wanted to know how to cut in along the cornice, but have watched and learnt so much. If you want a working holiday in Australia I have heaps for you to do :)
Paint can tip, take a nail and poke a hole in the divot where the can seals. The paint will drain into the can out of the seal, but when it's closed it's still air tight.
39:00 Don't blow yourself up?! Okay now Im scared to try.... I'd be the one to blow myself up! gonna watch the hood fan video. I'm binging on all your videos! You're absolutely amazing!
When this dude took that garbage liner - flipped the paint tray and caught it without looking - I knew he was the real deal - this cowboy knows what he is talking about - - - and he describes every little detail and step of the process because I am not a cowboy and I really need the details and all the info I can get,,, thanks ---- Yeehaw.
Hi Jeff, thanks for the video! I have a question and a comment. Why did you use steel wool on the microwave tray, but a heavier grade sandpaper on the other "plastic" surfaces in the kitchen? Also, if you had put your numbers inside the round holes inside the doors, where the hardware goes, you wouldn't have to remove it when painting.
I have oak cabinet doors that I will be painting white I also want to wipe a glaze on the doors once the painting is finished. My question is, should I use a grain filler before starting the process so the glaze doesn't pick up all the grain or will the grain add character to the glaze? I have spent a lot of time researching this project and your video has given me more information than other videos I've been watching.
TWO QUESTIONS: 1) How do you choose between sanding and a liquid sandpaper like Klean Strip. Wouldn’t liquid sandpaper be quicker and cleaner? 2) Why did you choose brush & roller instead of spraying?
Get a box for each drawer, have customer empty each drawer into a box, get a rolling set of wire shelving for all the boxes to go on, take the entire drawers to the shop to paint. Then everything can return to the original drawers. Also customer can sort out what they use and don’t use. Place a rag over the can and lid when closing it so you don’t squirt paint everywhere.
In all my years I've never met a contractor who likes painting or knew how to do it... You are very good Jeff! And I agree with a lot of these comments that ask "why are you not on HGTV?"! Thank you so much... See you later!
Great work. Wish I had the time. Since I'm budget friendly, Think I'll stick with wallpaper diy to change the look. The last owner got it all set up by home depot a few years ago & its oil based. Great video for future reference
Wow what an awesome tutorial! So I have been experimenting with painting furniture and such for a few years now . We just purchased a home and the kitchen cabinets are new but it’s that light wood which I hate . No offense to anyone who likes the light wood look , it’s just one of my picky stuff. So of course I say to my husband “ well I can just paint all the kitchen cabinets myself” like it’s just that easy .. noooot.. my mum and husband told me umm Renee I don’t think you should do that because it’s quite involved and all that . I watched your amazing video and YES it’s INVOLVED! I love your personality and your precision to take the time to make it all look perfect! I wish you could come to Boston to do my cabinets ! Lol.. idk , I know I can follow your video and do a good job , but I do wk slow and it would prob take me months and I don’t want to look at those cabinets for months before we can pay someone to do them ! Well , I guess I will just have to decide 🥴 thanks again and I look forward to watching more of your other videos
Take a nail and punch holes every inch or so around the can in the bottom of the lid groove. Paint will drain back into can. No need to run finger around rim to try and remove paint.
I take the hardware off each door and label them top or bottom and then in the hole of the doors I put the number of the door and top or bottom in the two holes with a felt pen. So you will put the same door hinge back and not have to adjust. So you don't have to put tape on each door with a number, You have to take off the tape to paint. So put a number in where the holes are and you don't have to paint there so the number will stay there.
I added a like to the video; however, the professional results can only be achieved by using a spray gun and good quality primer and paint. The paint should be covered by polyurethane clear coat. The last one needs hardener to cure. If some one doesn’t like modern glossy finish, the clear coat can be mixed with some matte additive. The paint can be epoxy one as well. In this scenario clear cote is not needed.
What an incredible tutorial I’ve been painting since back in the days of decoupage. But your tips and tricks or absolutely wonderful even down to loading the brush thank you so much for sharing. What is your next video excited to see more!!
@HomeRenoVisionDIY amazing video, I have a solid wood frame that isn't covered by the cabinets which also needs to be painted, Wondering should I just paint the fascia of that frame or the inside ridges too ?
I dunno how its done in America, but where im from we never, NEVER, end with the roller on cabinets / doors, we apply paint with it but always finish off with a paintbrush for that sweet brushed finish. Also, when he speaks of daytime lighting and he goes back and forth with paint like that, will leave visible stains, uneven paint, some parts more glossy and some parts more "dull".
To prevent the oils from coming through can you just start with a stain blocker primer? Or use that enamel spray primer on the entire doors right at the beginning?
I've the doors off and cleaned, sanded and re-cleaned them. Sanded the frame, same cleaned and sanded then followed your instructions. I now would like to know if putting a coating of polyurethane will help in keeping cabinets cleaner and last longer.
Sanding? Oh no....the degreaser /deglosser clean it really good. Heirloom traditional paint has a primer built into the liquid so you don’t need to prime...three coats and your done. Leave the doors on. ☺️
I checked to see if I had oil or water base paint with the acetone and it rubbed off. I know it’s water based but I have oil base paint. What do I do to paint the box cabinets on the wall? Do I have to sand it with the 120/150, prime, paint, sand and paint again. Do you have any videos showing how to paint the box cabinets. Thanks for your tips and tricks too!! Shani
Great video thank you two questions can you use a killz primer for all of your first coat, an I didn’t see the link for the video on the seal/clear coat application
THANKS FOR THIS VIDEO. My old cabinets are a medium brown. I am painting them a white color. I feel the inside of the cabinets need to be painted as well. What say you? How? Thanks.
What about painting inside of the drawers? Do you recommend doing that? I’m talking about the bottom of the inside of the drawer where items would be placed.
We took the drawer faces off, left the screws in the drawer boxes, and twisted on some wine corks for temporary handles. Make sure you drink enough wine ahead of time 😉
Lots of contractors I've spoken to as well as homeowners recommend using a Sprayer to spray the doors and frames for a texture free finish. Why did you opt to use a brush and roller? I couldn't get a sense from the video of smoothness in the paint. I did see quite a bit of texture and wood grain in some of the close ups.
Hey Jeff! Your video was amazing & I wish I found it the first time I painted my cabinets. I’m looking to redo them. They’re already painted white, so do I need to strip the paint & then sand it? Thank you!
All are great. I have only one question though. Would there be a better paint type/brand that will do a perfect job day one and avoid the final touch ups weeks later? Ie.
I bought bathroom vanities that are made of particle board with the laminate sheeting on top. I used Bulls Eye1-2-3 primer which said it was a no sanding primer and I followed that with Valspar cabinet and furniture paint. It has dried for a month but when I put the vanity top on it I found that the paint was chipping easily. How can I fix it so that the painted cabinet can be durable enough for every day use in the bathroom?
I would suggest going to the C2 website and order their cabinet and trim paint. It is the most durable paint on the market and we joined them to get you a 20% discount. Cheers!
How would I make it so the grain doesn't show?? Also can I just use a stain blocking primer instead of a transition primer prior to painting? Thank you for all the help I need to update my kitchen but can't afford to pay someone to do it.
There are only a couple guys like your self on RU-vid that does great work and for some one that has never done something you are def one of the best teachers 👍👍👍👍👍👍🪛🧰🔧🛠⚒🔨⛏🪚🔩🪜 Looks like they had new doors there old cabinet before they hired you
