DIY Hydroponics | Aeroponics Garden Tower Build | Part 2 - [4 Tower Build] 

I though I would add a helpful hint. I heated and created all the holes in the 4" pvc and then cooled them with a cool wet cloth. Later, when I went to put the 2" rings in each hole I found that the majority of the holes were not perfect and I had to revisit every hole (112) reheat them and then place the 2" rings in. (heating and forming the holes is by far the most time consuming part of this projec) I would suggest just putting in the 2" rings when you first heat and form the holes in the 4" pvc.

I was inspired by the 4 tower configuration you built, but found that there were some much needed tweaks that needed to be done. I found that a 1/2" pipe would not provide enough flow, neither would the puny fish tank pump provide enough volume to supply the towers. I also added a fine mesh filter to the outside piping that can be opened and cleaned or replaced as needed. I had constructed a unit with 5 towers. So I bought a stronger pump that would provide a 3/4" diameter outlet that would raise a column of water 13'. I also omitted the use of a sprinkler head on the inside of the tower, opting for an end cap with a single hole, 1/8th or 1/4" diameter, I don't recall which. The baskets were too short, so the water fell to the bottom of the towers with no benefit to the plants, so I found some baskets that were 2.75 inches deep and these served to break up the stream and scatter the water over the rest of the baskets. I then built a wood frame and covered the unit with shade cloth. Sand colored, to diminish the amount of heat on the plants as well as the water in the towers. I covered the base with cardboard to help keep the heat down as well. So far it is working very well, the plants are growing nicely.

Great work mate!! This will be my next DIY project!

Hey Chris, just for your benefit; it looks like when you were using the hole saw to drill the hole in the end cap, you did not have your center drill bit inside the hole saw. it will drill a much cleaner hole and will not walk on you while drilling. great video by the way, keep up the good work!

I think hydroponics is the way to go

Good work! Do you have a watering cycle/schedule or is the pump running 24/7? Thank you for your excellent videos.

Thanks for sharing your build! This looks really good - have you planted the four tower yet? Does it contain sufficient water and nutrients or must you top up frequently? Please share an update!

Found my part time job

Maybe you could consider using a effluent filter in the pipe instead of the floor drain

nice job

Does the water have to be flowing 24/7? If no instead of paying for electricity can we make it solar?

Chris, do you have any links for the non pvc components, meaning the pods and pump etc?

What was the angle use used to cut the 2 inch pipe that you fed in to the slots to make the openings for the 2 inch baskets?

That’s bad ass!!

Chris, would you consider building this for others and sell it through Etsy or something? If the price is right, I will be your customer!

May I know if rain would be an issue with this design ? I am thinking of o we flossing the plants in case of heavy rain …. Thanks in advance.

What nutrients should I use at my home vertical farm

It's been a year since this was released. I checked your information section of your channel and didn't see a website. Did you or do you have a website? And are you producing the towers for sale? Or the complete system?

Just looking at your list of parts--does it include the piece that sprays the water to all four towers? What is that piece called?

Wondering if you could provide a list of all you need to build project ?

Your project is inspiring. It's a very solid result for a second generation design. I work maintenance at a aeroponics farm. Our largest grow room contains 32 systems, each 56 feet long, and requiring several thousand gallons of fertilized water held in the recirculation tanks. They are our 12th generation design. You are moving in the right direction, but I do have a few suggestions. Maximum production requires healthy, disease free plants. Combining multiple systems into a common tank reduces cost, but provides a pathway for pathogens. Don't combine more than you are willing to discard all at once because of sickness. Periodically, and in response to sick plants, all parts need to be accessible to cleaning with a brush. Switching the elbows under the towers with a tee sealed with a plug might be beneficial. As would a tank drain. I know all too well that maintenance and regular servicing of grow systems seldom gets the needed consideration during design and construction. So it's great that you recognized the need for filtration. I'm not sure you filter down small enough. The green slime that will always grow inside hydroponic systems will clog nozzles. It's not just the roots that are a concern. To reduce the growth of the scum inside the tank, make sure the water is always protected from any light source at all points inside the system. Darkness won't stop the algae but it will slow it and prevent it from competing with the crops for the available food. If left unmanaged, it will starve the crop decrease yield. I will be demolishing most of the first generation systems later this year to make room for just one 14th generation system later this year. Keep perfecting your design, they really do get better every time you start over.

Really cool build, man. I love the design. You're in for a bad time the way you use that chopsaw though. Let that blade stop before you move it out of your cuts or it will grab that stock and suck it up. Start that cut towards you and push back in to the fence. Let the blade stop and then readjust your stock if you need to finish the cut, but don't start the blade in the middle of the material. Also, it has a dust port on the back, I'd suggest hooking a shopvac, or even your home vac up if you don't have one. You don't want to be breathing any of that fine particulate. I don't want to come off too critical, but I've been in front of a saw for almost 20 years and I cringed watching some of those cuts on this video and your first one. I would automatically be correcting the apprentice if I saw him doing this on site. Stay safe, and good work.

I have not read all the comments...have you considered that the white PVC pipe is not UV resistant and over time will become brittle and subject to cracking. The grey PVC pipe is UV resistant but should last longer.

Once every couple of years I give a video a standing ovation...this video is one of them. Now all you have to do is open a factory where you can mass produce these towers and *BOOM* you have just solved world hunger. Cheers from Ottawa, Canada.

This looks great and all, but the real question is: did it work? Do you have any update on whether or not it was successful in growing various plants?

From experience cutting PVC, Turn your blade backwards. This way the blade cuts evenly and the pvc will not explode.

This is one of the coolest projects I've ever seen on RU-vid. Amazingly impressive.

Your process could be made more efficient by using stop blocks on your miter saw for the cuts. You'd get perfect uniformity and save a lot of time by not having to measure, mark and eyeball each pipe.

Nice job. Try adding a few coils of bare copper wire near the base of each upright, including the centre feed. That deters slugs and snails from sneaking up and munching on your crop. They have a bad time when copper oxide mixes with their slime.

Safety narc here. I would advise caution against wearing any type of glove while using power tools with parts that rotate. The glove can get caught in the rotating parts and cause your hand to be pulled into it. Stuff like reciprocating saws you can wear gloves, but I would advise against it with something like a mitre saw. Use clamps instead to hold the piece secure.

You could use old nylons over the drains, that will filter out the smaller bits! We use those over the inlet of watertank to stop dirt from the rain pipes going into our water tank in the garden.

The fact that your giving mesasuments and templates for free is a BIG THANK YOU.

Hi Chris- Excellent job. I'd agree with so many commenting that this is one of the best RU-vid videos out there on this subject. One suggestion I have is that if you do make the plans/part list available- there are a lot of people that would pay $10 or so for a clean pdf. Just an idea for you to generate income you deserve for such a great iteration of this idea. I have paid a little for nicely drawn pdf''s - and have never regretted paying for something I can print out and have right there while I'm doing a build. Keep up the good work, and looking forward to anything else you do with this idea!

If you cut your rings ahead of time and inserted the ring into the hole made by your heating gun while it was still hot, it would fit perfectly and take less time - just a thought.

I would suggest replacing one of the 90° elbows on the base with a tee. Place an expandable plug or threaded cap and adapter there to seal it. That way you can drain and flush the reservoir every so often.

Chris, for a future video you should rig a solar panel/battery set-up which drives the pump, and also powers LED grow lights at night; an off-grid, 24-hour, vertical hydro farm.

I would like to see more video of the results of growing. Does it actually have a good yield?

Very good job! My only suggestion would be to add 4 shut off valves at the top, in order to be able to remove each tower separately if you need to make ay maintenance.

Just a FYI: wearing gloves around saws is more dangerous! If the the saw blade catches, it will grab and pull in the gloves along with your fingers.

ok, i remained silent on the first video.. enough is enough though. theres a solvent that removes the lettering from the pipes, would make it look a ton better. the reinforcement rings are just over-engineering, they arent even blocking light.. so you could probably use pool noodles or neoprene instead of even messing with netcups. speaking of, you could also just use hydroton with rockwool (or without) instead of buying the coco pucks all the time. i knew the first one would fall over because you only used a 3 gal bucket you said you were going to build a support for it though. use screen instead of shower drains possibly even fine mesh ones OVER the drains. i would also have used a sprayer at the top of each pipe. it looks fairly nice though.

Here's a part list from what I could tell (pipe length's may have some extra footage added). These were just notes I took from watching the video and planning. I have seen a lot of people ask for a parts list so thought I would share what I jotted down, please feel free to edit if something is inaccurate or overlooked. 3 x 10' 4" PVC 2 x 10' 1/2" PVC 1 x 10' 2" PVC 4 x 4" shower drain plates (metal) 4 x 4" 90 degree elbows PVC 3 x 4" tee PVC 1 x 4" wye PVC 1 x 800 GPM pond pump (ensure dimensions will fit into 4" PVC) PVC primer/glue 5 x 1/2" threaded male adapter PVC 5 x 4" caps PVC 1 x 4" female adapter PVC 1 x 4" DMV cleanout plug PVC 4 x Orbit 54042 Mushroom Bubbler 1 x 1/2" 5-way cross fitting connecter PVC 4 x 1/2" 90 degree elbows PVC 132 x 2" garden slotted mesh net cups (33 per each tower x 4 towers) All PVC is schedule 40 in this design. I am sure other types of piping could be used instead, check toxicity leaching accordingly. Also, you may wish to add in unions or shut-offs to the branches of the 1/2" overhead pipes to independently perform maintenance on tower as others have suggested.

Awesome tower Chris. I'm taking some time off this summer and I just found my project for the summer. Can you post an update on how your plants are growing, what it looks like, and other info about your setup as it's growing? Thanks!

Once again - after reading all of the comments - - I didn't notice anyone suggest PVC Unions - - And more screw together - threaded PVC parts/couplings - - attached at the end of the pipes and on the corners/couplings etc - - They are water tight - - and add a whole new world/dimension of flexibility and more easily alignment of the towers - using PVC Unions - without having to use a level you can straighten things out anytime during the build and dissemble any time you want into its separate parts and even remove any tower - or add reservoirs - - add new base that just screws on when you need to remove the bottom for cleaning or maintenance - - any time - - and just cap removed tower openings with a cap -- etc.. you can build little parts that either simply attach with the PVC pipe cut attached (glued) to them to slide in where it isn't under pressure - - or make or purchase factory available - - screw on/in - factory threaded - - items that attach to the PVC Union /screw on PVC parts Threads - - it offers - - exponential - - malleability to any PVC project... So you can start smaller and work your way to a larger project with more towers, reservoirs - - for disassembly for winter storage - - and as they said in the other comments valves on every tower and... possibly... even within towers to grow things that have various water needs... more at the top and less at the bottom... and for individual tower removal when you only want to grow (X numbers of towers) the world is the limit... - - and a huge time saver and making the project more user friendly - malleable so the holes don't have to be perfect and re-heated - - pool noodles - - they said they had been using them for years and you can get them at the dollar store for $1.25 and far less dangerous cutting of tiny pvc slices - - and makes it so a person can do it without an accurate miter saw... For people who don't have such extensive shop tools on hand - - even made with a hand saw...combined with Big Box Store - off the shelf available - - pre cut pipe sections and threaded pipe and threaded PVC Unions - - with this (union/threaded screw together/pool noodle) system - - and for drilling holes use only expandable bits like the second one you used...... Hole saws are tricky and make dirty uneven cuts that have to be cleaned up....

would love to see the addition of grow lights on the quad or single tower for indoor use!

What is the angle on the PVC you use to create the holes? We tried ours and my husband went with a 45° one and it didn't seem to work out well. We have a lot of leakage and the rings don't all fit well

Use pool noodles cut 2-3” depth versus the 2” rings which will seal better. Been using mine for three years now.

How long before you start selling your hydroponic systems? Are you going to incorporate an option of lighting for indoor use?

They make clear primer if you want a cleaner look. Also the primer can be used to remove the red text on pipe if you wanted. Great video, thank you.

I'd love to see a follow up to these videos with some of your grown plants and how you're liking this new design!

If you live in a place where freezing is a concern, I'd suggest adding a TEE at the base to drain the system. This will make it lighter to relocate it indoors for storage and prevent ice from busting the base.

The attention to detail is top notch. Little things like the drain, the ability to easily move, disassemble-bility (not a word but it's perfect haha) for cleaning and/or repair and even the suction cups for the pump is all awesome. Goes to show how well thought out this entire system is. Salute

How much volume water does it actually hold in this design? Just need it to calculate the nutrient solution? Great video. Gonna start building it in a couple of days

Nice work ! :D i would like to know if u can tell us all the parts information in description :D or maybe a google sheets :D will be awsome :) ah mayne amazon link if is possible for sure

I think I would add four ball valves on each line going to each Tower so you can control the flow of water instead of being entirely dependent on all things being perfectly equal. There will never be an equal amount of water flow between The Four Towers unless you control it and regulate it in some way shape or form either each tower has its own pump or add four ball valves on the top of your manifold

I would add a valve on each infeed so that you can turn that flow off if you are not using the tower or need to do maintenance on just a single tower. It may not be a big deal to turn it off when pulling plants and putting new ones in but at the end of year harvest your system wlll become less full and eventually some towers will be running while others will be empty and you will need to ether create caps for the empty spaces to prevent leaking or be able to turn off the empty tower all together. a flow valve to each tower is and inexpensive fix.

Thanks for the great video. I am interested in building one as I don't want to pay upwards of 500 bucks. I don't know if anyone else mentioned it but rubber fittings with hose clamps makes it all easy to disassemble and instead of solid riser just flexible tubing would do the job. I think the other systems try to prevent light to the water tank to deter algae, not sure, think I read that somewhere so maybe setting the base in a dark container or covering it with some black plastic etc... I am going to subscribe to see what else you come up with. Cheers and thanks again for sharing!

This is awesome. Well done. How big can the veggies grow without falling over? Soil stabilizes plants from falling over. Just wondering how this would work. Thanks!

Although you made improvements, which are quite good; this looks suspiciously like the design of another RU-vidr located in Indonesia, right down to the added rings in the holes to stop water splashing. I’m surprised you didn’t give him credit for the overall design. ru-vid.com

Good video Chris. I would like to see it with plants growing on it. Thanks.

Awesome video. I plan on putting a separate reservoir in my cellar when I build my own, makes it easier to swap out or PH-correct the nutrient solution, and power the pump. Also it's not really necessary to keep the pump on all the time, in my current (indoor) setup the pump is turned on for 30s every 30mins and the plants are doing just fine.

Great video! I just finished the single tower (part 3) yesterday. I did all four sides of the pipe but I feel it’s pretty crowded. I am thinking about doing the 4 tower system, but only putting three rows of pods around the pipe. Does that pump give enough water to all four towers? Before I get started, is there anything you would change to the four tower system? I also think myself and others would love to see the results of your tower! Thank you! Sean

This just dropped and I’m already eagerly awaiting the third video! The update to the single tower!

Watch on x2 speed... Trust me!

Again, you did a great job, however, I'd add a turntable to the base, so it can be revolved, allowing all areas to be exposed to sunlight. Thanks for uploading!

Chris, one possible change that you could try, to keep the PVC from exploding when cutting it with the miter saw ………. is an old vinyl sider’s trick to keep the vinyl from breaking while cutting it. If you put the higher tooth blade (60 or so teeth) on the saw so that it cuts backwards. I’ve used that little secret for years!

Great build. I have some questions though, and I am sure a few people here may benefit from my asking. So I started this build and added a few extra items and changed a few things. I upgraded the pump to a 600wph with a built on filter for those same cleaning issues you mentioned. I also changed to a flexible tube from the pump to the towers. I did that because the pump I selected is a flex fit type. The reason I am going into all of this is that I am a bit concerned for the water pressure. I see the pump you used has a lower psi limit than the one I selected, and when I looked at the stats for the pump that most closely resembled yours I found that the one you selected has a max height of 5' at 0psi, the one I selected really isn't much bigger, it's stats are something like 6' at 0psi. So my concerns and question is, have you had any trouble with the psi being too low, any trouble with providing adequate water flow to all 4 towers? Thanks for any information you can provide.

your design looks good BUT the tower is a bit small IMO. You need to use larger pipe as the roots need air flow to grow better. This system looks like it would get root bound.

Love the build. Was wondering though, how about adding some push cart : trolley wheels to the base (probably clamp them on or create a small base for each arm and the center)? Just thinking that if it is on a paved surface (or someone has this in their apartment) it would allow for movement and rotation more easily (yea I know there is a power cord)

In your part list, you forgot to add the 'Mushroom Bubbler' shown at 19:05. However, the label was still attached, so I got it anyway! :)

Great video thank you. Looks very stable, well built, well thought-out. Would be cool to see in operation, particularly cleaning it and if there're any differences in plant growth comparing top, mid, bottom of towers.

I absolutely love this video! And with that being said, I just added all of the listed items to Lowes as an in person pick up, as well as all of the Amazon items for delivery, and the total for materials came out to $724. I was SO hoping I could get into hydroponics and save money :(

Thank you...this is magical🎯💥💦🧬🌊😭

ABSOLUTELY FANTASTIC... I loved the tone of your voice while giving instructions.. very calm and not rushed.. you could absolutely sell these with a how to video. I would buy it... 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼

Love to buy a update model shipped to Montreal Quebec Canada

Next time set up a stop 1cm away from the blade so you don't have to measure and mark each ring.

Very cool and simple, I think I will try this method. Another caution to add to the others: Heated PVC is crazy toxic, a neurotoxin, must wear a mask, not n95, a rated mask for gases. Also just use acetone to remove the inked writing. Thanks for sharing and doing.

Great instructional, thank you! A video on care, seasonal servicing & maintenance would be well viewed.

Your timing is impeccable. Alot of people may need this information soon.

Great plan Chris. Not sure if this question is asked though. Do you a list of all the materials used? Would love to build one as well. Thanks

This is the most awesome thing I've ever seen. I'm taking off with this idea. Food is getting expensive, and this looks really fun to try!

As all of the commenters stated, great build, very smart and inspiring. Thanks for sharing, the video is of the highest quality as well.

Long learning curve post and adjusted parts list- Parts List I got from another commenter, but adjusted after building and spending a lot of wasted money on things that didn’t work: AT LOCAL HARDWARE STORES- -3 x 10' 4" PVC -2 x 10' 1/2" PVC -1 x 10' 2" PVC -4 x 4” metal shower drain plates (people suggested more tightly meshed ones though, and we are using sink drain mesh ones instead to prevent pump clogs) -4 x 4" 90 degree elbows PVC -3 x 4" tee PVC -1 x 4" wye PVC -PVC primer/glue -5 x 1/2" threaded male adapter PVC -5 x 4" caps PVC -1 x 4" female adapter PVC -1 x 4" DMV cleanout plug PVC -4 x Orbit 54042 Mushroom Bubbler (Or any sprinkler bubbler works really) -4 x 1/2" 90 degree elbows PVC THINGS WE HAD TO ORDER ONLINE- -1 x 1/2" 5-way cross fitting connecter PVC (had to get these online because they weren’t in stock locally at any of our hardware stores. Link: www.amazon.com/EPHECH-Fittings-Furniture-Connectors-Greenhouse/dp/B097LPRPL4/ref=sr_1_8?crid=1IHJ201U787BP&keywords=5+way+pvc+fitting+1+1%2F2+inch&qid=1652020836&sprefix=5+way+%2Caps%2C97&sr=8-8 -1 x 800 GPM pond pump that’s less than 4” and fits (I used a less powerful pump after reading other’s comments and reviews. We bought this one and it works like a charm: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B097HF98WF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1) -80-132 x 2" garden slotted mesh net cups (33 per each tower x 4 towers for his original build, and 20 per tower x 4 towers for more spaced out plants for more root room and other issues people commented about) Link: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09PV79PCW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 These are the kind of pods he mentions at one point that I purchased for this: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B088MKLBB9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 We also added shut off valves at the top of each tower as well. So that’s 4 shut off valves if you so choose to incorporate them. A few things I’ve learned from making this over the last week as a first time hydroponic tower maker that he either glosses over and doesn’t go in depth about or we changed upon reading suggestions here: -We did 20 plant pods per tower. There were lots of experienced hydroponic growers on here commenting about over crowding and after A LOT of experimenting with spacing and heat (and that the baskets don’t actually sit flush and all the way down when 3 across per row like this and there was zero way we were going to get good water flow and room for roots in mature plants), having them as close as he does just isn’t really realistic for a ton of reasons, including that the PVC just starts breaking down after a while as well. -Ice is critical when doing the melting and re-hardening the pvc to mold it. If it’s both cool enough when you start to move on to the next hole, you will absolutely tear it and ruin the hole. If the hole STARTS tearing when you’re making the hole, add ice to that section while forming the hole to prevent further tearing. -I have no clue how he got the little 5cm openings he talked about in his first video when he does the template to work because that was not functioning for us no matter how we tried. So we did TWO 8cm holes spaced 8cm apart from each other on each row. (34cm leaves you with 4, 8cm parts. So it seemed more natural with this spacing) And 10cm in height with each row alternating where the holes are. Ten rows total for each tower. -We have the same heating gun as him and on high heat, we needed exactly 1 min and 20 seconds of heat on the area we were molding to get the least amount of tears. -We put the 1cm, 2” cup holding rings on as the pvc was hot so they would stay better and cooled it with the ice around it. -Save your self a lot of headaches and do the melting on a flat surface or the whole pipe will bend and cause issues. -Start melting your pods 20cm from the top instead of the 10cm he does or you can run into issues with the top pipe caps not fitting properly from the top of the tubes warping from melting the pod holes. -We are engineering a reservoir to attach and automatically fill when it’s lower because this one doesn’t have much water to circulate when the plants mature. -You don’t have to use a miter saw. That was actually making things harder for us. (I’m assuming he used that one because it was sponsored?) we used a hand held tool (idk what it was but my husband is in the remodeling business and said it was for trimming or shimming or something 🤷🏻‍♀😅) and we had a ton more success with getting perfect cuts every time. -You will need to sand most of the cup holes down after forming them. Especially the ones that DO end up tearing. -Not going in order from top to bottom while molding the holes makes things ridiculously difficult. Please avoid if possible. -We are going to end up siliconing the 1cm 2” rings for holding the cups up because some do end up moving and might fall in with the weight of mature plants. -We are also adding shut off valves at the top so that if we need to rotate and not have one tower running, we can. I am planting today and will take pictures and link to them here for anyone interested in following one of these in action since he’s not been able to use his yet (he said due to weather, and weather is not an issue for me and I will be able to grow year round).

Chris I really like this design and I've been doing hydroponics for about 5 years now with many of my own designs (some similar to this). You actually solved several design issues which I struggled with so I want to thank you! Also, as a non-beginner (but not quite an expert either) hydroponics grower, I would like to give some constructive criticism. The sheer number of plants you have (over 100?) in the 4-tube system is going to require a larger reservoir than what you have. Mature plants suck water like crazy and you will be forced to refill that small reservoir DAILY when the plants are all mature. This will make it very difficult to maintain proper nutrient balance & pH levels. So, put on your creativity cap and increase that reservoir size a LOT. Good luck and keep on making!

Brilliant! I love it because ANYONE could make this because you planned and executed it so relatably!❤

This guy is phenomenal in his designs. Great Job! learning and making corrections through each iteration in design.

Wow Chris, this is a great improvement over the first build. I like the way you puzzled through the concepts as you built the system. The cut 2" pipe is better than the bottle. Thanks for your inspirational work. I'm going into a California Master Gardeners cohort. I haven't tried hydroponics, but I'm intrigued and think that would help meet growing needs in our drought driven area.

i do not want to be the next smart guy. no advice. i really appreciate your effort. respect!!

I thought it would be appropriate for someone who has often fabricated things myself to tell you that your videos on pod towers has saved me a lot of work and money. You have done a wonderful job here and I am making these for my personal hydro garden. thanks much

Excellent design sharing. When you dry fit your pieces, make marks across the joints so when you glue them and need to twist for a water tight seal, you can align them perfectly and they end up square and plumb.

FYI One safety tip is never to bring your blade back up through the material after the cut, keep it down and wait for the blade to stop then bring it up so it does not catch the material and blow it up. Second, don't leave any gap behind your material always make another back fence out of plywood and screw that via the holes in the aluminum fence from the backside and cut through that with the blade so there is more of a fence and the ply material is tight to the blade cut width, its much safer then the open space they have. Good video nice design.

Brilliant idea! Thank you for your contribution to society!

Really impressive, Chris. So happy you forged ahead and after a 'shaky' start (obv. it wasn't really, I just couldn't help myself), you really knocked this one out of the park! I bought a KA heat gun and a bunch of tubing the day after watching the first video and have lots of projects on the go. None finished yet but an old Chinese proverb says, "Man who finishes house, dies"... That's from me, your buddy Chris Z., to keep in your back pocket for all the people who ask you why something isn't perfected yet. Thanks for making the effort, for making a difference in the lives of others. May your life be blessed with a never-finished home full of family and laughter! Ands remember... Personal Protective Equipment is no joke, it is the sign of a grown man.

I found that putting on a saw blade backwards makes cutting plastics very easy and prevents shattering and chipping. Thanks for the video it gave me lots of ideas. +1 sub.

Have you thought about using hose to supply the water? You could put a splitter on the pump, then run a hose through each tower. Self contain the water flow and add a cleaner look.

This is very impressive and affordable! Thanks for sharing this project.

Not only functional, also really pretty... 🤩

Brilliant! Absolute gold. Thank you so much for going through theprocess of experimentation for us.

Did you use food grade pvc (uPVC) so the plants aren’t absorbing toxic chems?

Wow. I was about to spend over 500$ for a test purchase for a single tower from a seller. Now, I can make 4 towers at the fraction of the cost.. Please share your drawings and specs, if possible. I am open to purchasing the drawings as well. Have a question? What did you use to flow the water evenly among towers and also within the Tower walls? I cannot see because of the camera angle.

Do these towers overcrowd the plants at all? A lot of tower builds that I'm seeing online have a wider vertical spacing between the pods, or otherwise use extensions to increase the distance from the center. This system looks really efficient and inexpensive (barring access to tools) so I'm hopeful it can accommodate a wide variety of plants.