@@nikodembartnik Your diagnostic is good but the bottom line is that the hot glue is not liquid enough. It's way too thick to flow easily into your mold.
@@joetke hotglue is more than liquid enough, the biggest problem would be its stickiness after the fact, adding a heat source that could keep the aluminum block at a steady temperature filling it from bellow very slowly with a steady low pressure and a air hole at the top would work, it would take some time because you would have to cool the whole thing at the end adding some sort of mixture, making the mold out of steel would allow you to add some oil to it, that would make it release better from the mold, adding release screws (screws you screw in to make a even pressure to release it from the mold) but then again if you are going to have control over the temprature and pressure you could just not use hot glue.
@@nikodembartnik Siema jak zwykle super filmik 👍 bawię się trochę w drukowane formy i co mógłbym Ci poradzić to otwór wentylacyjny w najdalszym przeciwległym punkcie od miejsca wtłaczania kleju. A druga kwestia to posmarować formę. Przy kleju na gorąco używam smaru silikonowo-teflonowego i działa super, ale pewnie wiele innych śliskich rzeczy da radę. Pozdro
Fill from bottom with opening on top. Mold release a must! Hot glue not best idea if your going to inject hot plastic you need to make some form of high pressure injection.... we use potting which is a 2 part mix and shoot with a tube and air gun that pushes potting thru a tip. Imagine a caulk gun only under power. Is there a 2 part plastic mix that can be mixed and immediately pumped into the mold?
Rubbing Alcohol usually does a really good job of removing hot glue. Some sort of a mold release wouldn't hurt either. Oh, and not all hot glue guns are created equal. I have used industrial glue guns which are much hotter than a normal crafts glue gun, though any of them should work out in the end.
air pockets. you need more holes for your mould to breath. iv'e tried injection moulding in the past... (abs 3d printed mould but because hot glue sicks 3d printed parts, i used standard plumbing silicone from the hardware store). NOTE: the holes have to be big enough for the air to escape (from experience 1mm diameter will do fine) but small enough so that the surface tension of the hot liquid won't let it though. some tips for next time (personal experience): 1) the seam for where the two parts come together, it should be at 45 degrees and extend off an edge for the cavity. (it's cleaner and alot easier to clean up. 2) the hole where the hot glue gun is in contact with the mould, there isn't a complete seal. the trapped air is creating a greater pressure inside the mould. that's why the glue is spewing out. how i overcame this issue was to interface of the silicone pointy nozzle with a 10mm diameter aluminium tube between the abs mould and nozzle where the silicone came out. (once the silicone was set. i had to throw away the aluminium tube because it would cloggedI'mnd im too lazy to clean it with a drill bit) 3)i had to use a lot of force to squeeze the silicone into the mould. to the point where the force i was applying to the (silicone tube squeezer device) bent the handle. remember it takes a lot of pressure to squeeze out air through a 1mm mole
Your air outlet hole needs to be on the opposite side of the injection port. Allowing the air to escape. In your initial tries the glue is blocking the escape home and nothing more is getting in.
Hey!! Congratulations!!! We see passion and a huge motivation on your activities. I can imagin how frustrating it was and even so, you posted the video, showing that not only of success a workship is made!! Hope to see the next injector succeeding!!
A problem could be that there was no hole on the different side for the air to escape. To get the product out of the mold use some baking oil or silicone oil and put a little film on the inside of the mold so it doesn't get stuck. In The industry they normally use some sort of silicon but I think baking oil would work fine.
Some professional advices, dear friend. About the milling machine: 1 Use some fluid (WD-40 can work great) in the milling process. It helps to avoid de bit become stuck, and also to refrigerate de bit. 2 make a transparent plastic protection around the dremel and the bit to avoid the metal chips go everywhere. 3. It can't be seen clearly, but the type of bit doesn't seem the appropriate for this task and material. This is not a real CNC application. In my opinion, the Pferd or similar tools may work better. About the injection of plastics: 1 the silicon is not a good choice. Maybe usin the 3d printer hot end work well. In the injection process, the plastic is nearly liquid as water. 2 put the air escape in the opposite way of the plastic inlet. And make small air out marks in other parts of the mould if needed. 3. Use mould release agents, we use spray silicon based ones. I expect this little ideas can help you to achieve your injection molding tool. Good luck, and thank you for sharing your amazing projetcs.
Gotta heat the mold. Awesome milling ! Try crayon/wax...usually injection molds are heated to extruder temps...aka 200C~...try injecting from the side, rather than the top wooo...and first
I'd say that really depends on the material, and the pressure that the material is being injected with. Some plastics are able to just be injected directly into a room temp mold and be fine. But if the part is large, it usually needs to be heated up some so that the material stays fluid-like. Though its cool to see the ones that actually need to have a higher temp in use, cause they usually have super complicated liquid cooling action!
Thank you for sharing this even though it didn't work out the way you were planning. I like watching other's trouble shooting and idea creation process and I wish there was more content like this.
I love the attempt, I will try this myself as well 1. Injected material should be hotter (considering the viscosity) 2. Air tight seal where injection is taking place (to only allow the material to go into the mold) 3. Outlet hole on the bottom as well 4. Try to slope the side of the mold for easier release (if possible with your current setup)
YOU DID GREAT!!!!! I am very impressed with your work. Just wanted to give you a couple of helpful tips I have learned. You can use them or not it’s up to you. Either way you are definitely on the right path!!!!! 1) add a vent 2) and another gate on the oposite side of you current gate (you may get knit line down the middle of the part but that can be fixed with temp. And or injection speed). And use 2 hot glue guns at the same time injecting from opposite ends. 3) try using a crayon inside of the hot glue guns 4) use some kind of mold release. You only need a mist of releasing agent on the mold faces. Try WD-40 for your purposes. 5) next time you make the mold add a pry tab or a slot in one of the mold halves so you can pry them apart using a screw driver 6) i know you have already been told this but you need a shorter endmill in the dremel. You want your endmill to be as close as posible to the chuck of the dremel so for your case try getting an endmill that has about a 1/2 inch or shorter cutting side milling surface.
My thought as well. I would use a piece of wood on ether side of the mold to insulate it from the vice. Should help to keep the vice from wicking heat away from the mold.
Why not use a resin instead of hot glue? You will need to use a release agent on your mold (like petroleum jelly). You should be able to simply pour the resin into the mold and get a working part. You may have issues with inclusions (air bubbles) But, I'm sure you will find a way to make it work. If you use PLA, you will need to make a heated mold (as you have discovered). The cheapest way Is to put your mold on a frying pan while you either pour liquid PLA or insert shaved PLA into the top. I still think the resin way would be easier and the result would be really strong. The REAL problem IS with your design. There is no exit hole for your molding material and air is getting trapped in your mold and not allowing the material to go down lower. The exit hole needs to be on the opposite end of the filling hole. That should fix it.
You need to have a draft angle (usually around 2 degrees) on your vertical walls so the object will release easier from the mold. If you look at any molded object you will find that the walls are not perfectly vertical. Also, as you are using hot-glue you will want to have some sort of release agent (silicone spray maybe) on your mold, as the glue is designed to stick much more than normal plastic would. Polishing the machined surface will help as well. Another thing to note is that the molds are typically heated for the injection, and then rapidly cooled for the part removal. This helps the material flow into the mold better, as it won't cool too early. And then the cooling causes it to pull away from the walls of the mold, making it easier to remove the part.
you were very successful in terms of what you learned! I've looked at a few of your videos... you're a very talented fellow. I wish you well in these difficult times. Stay safe!
Try using resin and mold release. A bit more pricy than hot glue but it should work. And the mold release should keep it from sticking too much. Hope that helps a little.
Injection mold tech here. I myself have always wondered if this could work. I think you biggest problem is not necessarily going to be keeping the mold hot. I think it is going to be the force required to push the glue into the mold, and keeping a tight seal on the glue gun/ venting the mold. I saw that you put in a vent at the top (which is great) but a few more might help. Also the faster you can get the glue in the better the flow will be and a big part of that will be a tight seal and good venting. Good luck and keep up the great work.
Nikodem: What you are getting is known as a short shot in injection molding terminology. Here is what is happening: The pressure with which your glue is being injected is not high enough to push the glue thru and fill the mold before it solidifies. The viscosity of the hot melt is high so it is not permitting it to fill before it is hardening, different materials have different properties and some inject better than others. Hot melt's viscosity allows it to work well as a glue, where you can lay down a bead and then stick two two surfaces together with it--in this case the viscosity is working against you. Something like Nylon liquefies, but you won't be able to use it in a gun type of configuration. Perhaps try candle wax or bees wax, and see if it works/proves out the concept. Polyolfins like PP and PE act more like higher melt temperature waxes. See if you can find mechanical properties and viscosity/flow characteristics of the materials you are working with and experiment. Use some kind of mold release or silicone lubricant on the inner surfaces of the mold--and cut them from thicker aluminum stock so you do not bend them. Heat the mold before you inject it--depending on what material you use to inject you may need more or less heating. I cannot tell from the video--but your vent location looks like it likely seal--so the pressure no longer is helping push the material into the mold--instead it is pushing the material back up thru the vent and blocking more material form coming into the mold... I think you are on the right path. I have worked in the toy and consumer packaged goods industry for many years on the design and engineering side of things, but I do know that they use mold release. You will want to heat your mold up evenly while it is clamped closed, and insulate it thermally from the vice.
This is similar to hot melt overmolds that I’ve designed in the electronics industry. Some of our plants used WD40 as a mold release agent instead of proper mold release. It worked well. Machine in vents to release air, 0.005 inch is a good depth. For prototype molds, similar to this, we would squirt it until we saw “hot melt” come out the other end. Basically you want a fill opening and an overflow opening. Good job and good luck!
Your idea is great and I am sure it will work with just a few changes. - Make the air escape from the other end, so it won't get trapped. - Use a release agent, or at least Silicon Spray at the inside of your molds. Both changes will increase the flow rate of the entering plastic into the mold. And while I know you are capable of making it, make a real extruder for real plastics to be inserted into the mold. A 3D printer extruder with a large nozzle will do. Use a filament like ABS and don't heat it up as when printing (230C) but increase the heat with 20C, so you will have more time to fill your mold. Good luck making this. I am sure you can do this.
Great first step. Now on to the next, don’t ever give up! Most of the best ideas are discovered on the third or eighth or even thirteenth try. Thanks for bringing me along on your journey! Great video
How about if you get a cheap direct drive extruder and hot end, (to replace the glue gun) and connect it to the aluminum mold in a way that the heat can transfer. Connect the thermocouple sensor to the mold so that it can be maintained at constant temperature and then you can drive PLA or other filament in to it?
Cover your lead screws with bicycle inner tube you might have to make rubber holders for it . Depends on how you mount them. You could make an extractor system like they use for woodwork using a vacuum cleaner.
Try drilling and tapping the bosses in the corners to hold the mold together. Use a hot-air gun to keep it warm, and a piece of wood to hold it up. Hot glue into a cold mold will probably never work. The mold and the vise act as a massive heat-sink. A bigger hole in the bottom might work. Also, injecting from the center and using pressure to force the glue out radially may be better then using mostly just gravity. Some pressure is definitely required. Molten plastic flows pretty well, but it still has more viscosity (and stickiness) to it, than for example water, or oil.
dear Nikodem Bartnik the right way is to make the opening from the Mold bigger and the hot glue gun hole bigger so the material can flow easier. if you add baby powder the material can release easier
During milling do you have access to a small solvent tank/ parts cleaner? You could put the CNC in the bath and keep solvent flowing over the part to lubricate and remove debris. For injection molding part you need to let the air out on the opposite side on the mold. In real mold the hole for injecting would be perpendicular to where your mold separates and have multiple vents. If you have a hot enough glue gun thingiverse has sticks you can print but I haven't done that yet so not sure how well that will work.
Just a heads up I see you heated the pieces towards the end, a heat gun would really help. Hot glue will start to solidify as soon as it hits a cool spot on that aluminium. To give you more time once you see it has started to solidify, hit it with a heat gun while in the vice. If you try this again, try a breather hole on the bottom. Also as to not destroy the mold, when you have enough of a gap or space you can pour some isopropyl alcohol into the mold to release the the hot glue. Thanks for sharing and best of luck!
I needed to make a seal for a stirling engine. I 3D printed a mold with PLA and used silicone glue. It worked perfectly on the first try. Anyway, great video.
May I suggest a brush bell over the drill tip, there are brush air seal for doors, that are flexible and you can roll a piece to make a bell to cover the tip of the dremel to avoid the aluminum chips jump everywhere.
pressure might also be a point, injection molding machines create extensive amounts of pressure during injection to fill up the thing. also aluminium might not be the best material to make the mold out of, it conducts the heat away really fast
We use a service to make our injection molded 2 piece cases for a product we once made, no longer. Nice build attempt keep going you will get it right. The countryside there really looks nice and we thank you for sharing that with us.
Before making your mould you should surface your spoil board to get it flat and parallel to your gantry. Use a flat bottom bit or ball nose bit and more step over for a smoother milled surface of your mould. Even though your end result was not what you intended, it was a cool video and shot well.
Hi, you could try using low melting point plastic like Polymorph (search it on Google) which melts at around 60°C. It should be relatively easy to heat up the mold at that temperature even with a hot air gun but note that the bench vise might cool it down fast.
If you have a soldering station use the air gun to heat the mold and the sylicon. Try to insulate the mold from the press, if the press in cold you lost all the mold heat in the press.
Cutting, use some 3 in 1oil to aid cutting aluminum! Stops build up on bit. And slow feed and don’t cut deeper in a single pass.polish your mold inside very well, cooking spray on inside will be your cheapest way for release of mold.
Hey. To separate the halves of the form you need with the help of alcohol, dripping it between the halves before separation. The form will unfold without any effort.
Use an induction oil around the aluminum to keep it hot and the glue fluid, and put the glue in slower to allow the glue to settle and air to escape (or use a two holes, one for glue in, and a second for glue out).
the glue you are using is designed to dry as soon as it cools just a little bit. so either you need to use a different material to fill the mold or keep it warmer so the glue is kept at the temperature it needs to stay fluid. and maybe have a bit more room between the air hole and the fill hole.
Drill location holes in the corners and bolt the thing together and kiss it with a blowtorch. After re milling the part with the air outlet at the bottom as the glue seals the current one.
Good try. This was a worthwhile endeavour. Suggestion, spray a release agent on the mold. Also cut 2 flat squares the size of your mold. Then sandwich all 4 layers together in your vice. Maybe preheat the mold in a toaster oven? Is there a hole in the bottom of the mold? That would allow the air to escape. Avoiding a piston / compression affect. Maybe mill a tapered opening. One matching the glue gun's nozzle. Again, good try! I think you may be on the right track.
You should try to wrap some resitance wire around the mold to get it hot, then pour the hot glue and then let it cool down if it is safe to touch heat it again and then remove the mold
hi my friend, if you use 220v, 100w or 150w band heater then you can easily inject plastic on any design. because we need plastic in water shape. so high temperatures convert it into water shape.
The molds isn’t great from the injection mold stand point but it should still work! You just need to decrease the air pressure inside the mold by having an air escape at the bottom of the mold. Heating the mold was a great idea but unless you heat the vice, aluminum has such a high conductive heat transfer coefficient that those thin molds likely loose half or more of their heat a few seconds after putting them into the vice. Heat the vice with a hair dryer for 15 minutes or so right in the jaws while you are heating the mold and try it. Also spray the inside of the mold with something to reduce the friction for the glue going in and it will also help get your mold apart afterward. Great videos you are fun to watch!
Read the instructions of your hot glue: "before gluing make sure both surfaces are clean and FREE OF OIL/GREASE." I added olive oil to an ABS mould and injected a hot-glue tire once.
What I tried to say was hot glue does not stick to greasy surfaces. I once needed a tire for a small robot, but could find nothing in the right size. I 3D printed a mould in ABS, soaked it in olive oil, and injected hot-glue from the side using several ports.
What about adding a vacuum tube near your bore to remove material as it get's milled ? I can imagine it would need some custom specific head: round around the bite, above the surface to cut
Aluminum will dissipate all the heat of the hot glue: just a temperature drop of few degrees under its melting point will cause the glue to become solid before reaching the hole mold. A way to overcome this is, like others say, to heat the aluminum or, better, to try different injection materials, like silicon or epoxy. Keep on, Nikodem!
I'm curious if you made the injection port hole fit the tip of the hot glue gun it might not leak so much. Also I wonder if you hooked a small vacuum pump to an air port on the other end of the mold from the other side and sucked the hot glue into the mold so it pulled it into the mold if that would work. Also I know they sometimes use vibration to draw the material into the crevices better and to draw out bubbles. Another idea I was thinking that if you just took one half of the mold and overfilled it with hot glue and could keep it molten if you couldn't just stick the other half of the mold into place and just squish the hot glue out. I'm sure the vice would have enough power to squish it together. Don't know. It's cool that you're trying and learning as you go. Keep it up. I hope it works out for you. Thanks man. Have a good one.
So as some one who helps build molds i think I have some ideas. first: add a spot in the bottom of the mold to let air out. second: your hot glue is setting up before it gets to the bottom. You either need to get the hot glue hotter or get the aluminum heated in some way. third: get some spray mold release. Maybe even cooking oil in a spray can. hope this helps
Duuuuude, epoxy resin with extra hardner ratio should help... Just have thin rubber cutout on the outline to prevent leakage... You can use a thin layer of resin first to smooth out the surface... Lemme know ur thoughts on this...
nice job. I've used the same method before in a silicone mold and it worked fine, but my design was quite a bit smaller than yours. I'm now building Dave Hakken's open source Precious Plastic injection molding machine and hopefully a MPCNC to make molds for it later as well. what kind of injection machine will you be building, your own design or the Precious Plastic one as well? either good luck, looking forward to see it here!
besides the tipps with more holes and to heat the molds up - i think - the main problem might be the glue-sticks for the hotgun. they are intended to get hard quite quick. Maybe there are some brands/types wich stay liquid a little longer.
A little tip for aluminium machining - spray some ethyl alcochol on the tool and plate. It do the magic - everything run much smoother and stop clogging tools.
The mold needs to be heated to allow the glue to maintain it's liquid form. I have one form Castorama (MAC one) and it easly goes to 300*C+, which would be more then enough to allow the glue to flow in properly. Side note, don't get MAC one as quality is.. medium.
The vide needs to be way hotter, maybe 180-200C. Also instead in pryint it apart throw the whole thing in rubbing alkohol after you are done. It works amazingly well for removing hot glue bonds without dissolving the glue st all.
Nice idea! Try using wood as an insulator for the vice. You could also try using your 3d printer to inject plastic into the mold. That might be interesting to try and just have the bed heat up the mold and have another small hole in the mold to allow air or gases escape as the material is coming in.
hello Nikodem, Congratulations on your efforts to perform hot injection. Some of my considerations, which I hope can be useful: First of all when you have to make molds and things so you always have to use a release broom otherwise even with the right plastic you won't try to open the molds again. The idea of heating the mold is excellent: if you look at how much glue you used in the various attempts it seems to me that with the mold heated on the Ender3 you injected more glue than when you used the cold mold. the problem is that when you grip the mold, into the vice it cools very quickly. To avoid the vice you could put four flat head screws in the corners of the mold and stop everything on the ender3 plate with a block of wood: since it is not a heat conductor it should better maintain the heat of the mold, even if this means putting Ender3 on a side to have the plate in a vertical position. The two holes (material inlet and air vent) maybe you need to position them a little further away, maybe then inject from the one that remains lower, this should prevent the liquefied product entering the mold not too hot, instead of pouring downwards to expand also towards the exit hole. The reason why in the first attempts you were able to open the mold is that the glue cooled before setting, which instead had time to do when you heated the mold, this means that the glue sticks are not the material suitable for injection molding: if the casting is done well then you will never separate the two halves of the mold again. for now I'll stop here and see you at the next video. P.S. beautiful the sky in your shots: then even in the cold Poland sometimes there is the sun! :-))
I honestly admire your videos. this project is a game pf persistence and i advise you to not give up. things you should try: keep the mold temp at same temp of the glue machine nozzle; or, use some heat isolation to attach the mold in the vise, it is draining some heat and making a cold spot; use wax or some oil to help you to demold; glue machines fuses the glue in near temp to make it solid again, so hack the glue machine to deliver a more fluid fused glue. good luck
Perhaps you can use a large diameter 3D printer nozzle and extruder to inject PLA into a heated mould? It that doesn't work then I would try a two part epoxy.
Jesteś na dobrej drodze! Daj trochę więcej materiału na formie, użyj “rozdzielacza”, nie wiem dokładnie jak to się nazywa, dla prób może być nawet w40,dodaj nachylenie ścianek tak by nie mieć kątów prostych w środku i powinno zadziałać nawet zgorącym klejem. Fajnie to robisz chłopaku i działaj dalej!
Dzięki! Z tymi ścianami pod kątem jest taki problem że trzeba by użyć innego frezu żeby to ładnie wygładzić. Jakiś rozdzielacz by się przydał ale nie wiem czy WD40 się nadaje
Było palnik kupić taki ręczny, albo wygrzewarka, do tego jak dobrze widzę używasz tej mocniejszej wersji kleju, spróbuj ze słabsza. Przydatne też może się okazać wypolerowanie powierzchnia wewnątrz formy albo pokrycie jej preparatem zapobiegającym przywieraniu
Hey man, you might want to use some mineral oil or something for cutting fluid when milling aluminum or plastic. Keeps the bit cool and chips a little more together. Yeah it's a bit more messy, but it will save you a lot of headaches in the future.
Place the vent hole at the bottom instead of at the top as you are trying injection molding plus heat up your molds and the Jaws of the vice and clamps with a blow torch as this helps increase the flow of your material as your not getting your molds hot enough and then cooling them down dramatically with cold clamps and vice buddy
What if you created a mould that screws into the hotend of the 3d printer. Then just use the extruder as the injection machine? The hotend will also heat up the mould. And use mould release agent.
some friendly tips :) :) ...apply mold release agent on surface of your mold cavity to avoid sticking... temperature stability of your mold is important,.... gate location and air-vents must be considered... check viscosity of the material to be molded , and try to play around the injection velocity ...
You are smart enough to build a heated mold. Use 3d printer parts. Get yourself some heater cartidges for the 3d printer hotend and a thermistof for the hotend. This way all you need to do is make the 3d printer board heat up the "hotend" which is now your mold. Also like mentioned insulate the vise with wood or another matherial that is bad at conducting heat. Maby also ditch the hot glue and start with candle wax or crayons. This is way easier since you can just poor it in the mold instead of trying to push it in. Good luck !
Instead of hot glue, try one of those epoxies that come in a dual barrel syringe so that it can be injected with some more force but still be not as viscous as the hot glue.
since the mold is all aluminum couldnt you turn each half into a heated unit with not too much effort or materials thn make sure to include an air release at the bottom? Also if it can be maintained hot couldnt regular plastic work?
Hi Nikodem, I like your video's I think I can give you some pointers for trying to mold with the glue-gun; Make the mold just a 3ºC lower than than the melting point of your material that you would put in to the mold. It have to be that temperature for the time of filling the mold. Perhaps even less than 3ºC. Than make PLA sticks with your 3-D printer. You have to make that your glue-gun has the melting temperature of PLA. You can do that with a 230 lamp dimmer. You have to know the volume of the material and weigh the stick before you meld it in to the mold. This is for knowing if the mold is filed up. If it is filed up than you may cut the power of the mold temperature unit. And Read the commend of Torsten Curdt. You can mill a air escape from the bottem of the mold to the top. A way of heating the mold up is to use the elements of an old sandwich toaster*, If the temperature is not hot enough you may unwind some nichrome wire, that will lessen the resistance of the wire. Make sure you rap the wire in hotbed-tape. The best thing is to experiment with your 12V5A and not with 230V. I really like to see you succeed. Corné * something lake this=> www.banggood.com/Electric-Automatic-2-Slice-Bread-Toast-Toaster-Sandwich-Maker-Grill-Machine-p-1141391.html?cur_warehouse=CN
You're right: it's not the right material to inject. All's said. The idea is good though. I would put the injection holes on a the large face instead. I'm a little bit frustrated that you didn't try to put hot glue on one half of your mold then clip the second half upon them. I'm sure it would have made it. Thank for this inspiring use of your dremel CNC Nikodem! Looks like spring has not touched Poland... yellow grass...
great ideas i think if you heated the aluminum with a soldering iron and use smaller clamps you would have more success. also after filling put it in the freezer. that vice is a huge heat sink , still what a great idea kudos.
The vice is pulling alot of the heat from the aluminum mold. Try puting a leather or something between the vice and mold. Keep that mold as hot as you can and vent hole.
Very interested to learn by watching you..I am moving into aluminum with my 6040. Don't you just hate it when for no reason it just ruins your part..laugh with nuclear :-) Good luck, great channel watching all your steps, including fails.
Lay one half of mould down fill void with hot glue. Do same to other piece. place together then clamp with spring clamps. If parts aren't clamped together completely, place on hot radiator,heat with hair dryer directly blasting one flat side of the the mold or hover over toaster until clamps are fully clamping two parts together. Once mold is cooled completely suspend mold by one half, heat with hair dryer and pull apart until the suspended part lets go of rest and so on.
Dodaj vent hole na przeciw otworu gdzie wstrzykujesz klej. To pomoże. Jeszcze użyj trochę oleju żeby tobie nie kleił się klej to formy. Mam trochę doświadczenia jeśli chodzi o formy do wtryskarek. Po za tym plastik w wtryskarkach jest podawany pod bardzo wysokim ciśnieniem w bardzo krótkim czasie.
That's a single flute end mill I also use it for plexi: m.banggood.com/3_175mm-Single-Flute-End-Mill-Cutter-Carbide-CNC-Router-Bits-p-977185.html?p=PW041611183930201706&custlinkid=166631
Well done on your progress. Next time try a smaller part . If your molds get stuck again, just pop them in the oven at 200 degrees, clean out what you can, burn out the rest on a gas flame or even a camp fire.
Polecam alkohol z wodą 1:1 do oddzielania kleju na gorąco od dowolnego materiału. Czysty denaturat też działa. Efekt jest szybki. Od razu widać penetrację nawet najmniejszych szczelin.
You probably need mold release, less viscous material, preheat the mold, air vent in bottom, better nozzle orifice to allow higher pressure input. Goodluck!
