DIY install a 240v outlet for Tesla (EV) Charging - SUPER EASY!! 

Well... I'm an electrician and to be blunt, you're great on camera, liked the production, good flow and kept it interesting. But, if youre ever in Northern California I'll take you on an install and show you the Code, safety, listing and standard practices so you can review your installation and make the corrections to bring it up to Code. This would not pass an inspection. Sorry. There's a lot to being an electrician. The Code is governed by the NFPA (Nat'l Fire Protection Association) for a reason. There's a difference between a working installation and a safe installation. Be safe, please.

Tips for anyone who does this: use a double gang appliance outlet box for the NEMA 14-50 outlet. It makes it much easier to fit 6/3 wire and you can keep the sheathing intact past the strain relief for the box. You should also have a strain relief where the wire enters the panel. Un-sheathed wire outside of the panel and outlet box won't pass inspection. FWIW, I would have put the new outlet right below the electric panel and just backed the car in.

Helpful as this video is, you can't have the conductors outside of the sheathing not inside the box (the red, black, white, and bare copper behind the drywall). I'm presuming it would be a tight squeeze in the box but still needs to be in there for safety reasons.

Since this is supposed to be for DIY, I recommend anyone trying this to turn off the main power. That is what a professional would do.

I watched your video until the end, then too 1 hour to find the correct parts. 1h to Home Depot to collect the needed parts and 3h to complete all the wiring and patch the wall. You are amazing.Thank you.

It is perfectly fine to do all the outlet wiring with the breaker on, but shut the mains off before removing the panel cover. Wires running through the panel openings need grommets to prevent an electrical fire.

As you have said, local codes do apply, so check with a local electrician... even if you know what you are doing. In my area you might be required to run conduit (even in the wall). Some areas require metal conduit, which is a pain to work with, but again local codes. PVC conduit is much easier. MOST jurisdictions would frown or prohibit bare wire outside of the outlet box, so that last 12 inches where you split the wire to go in the box would be a NO-NO. From a safety viewpoint I would agree, as cutting into the wall could find you hitting a live wire. Yes, conduit is a little more work but in this case I would do it. With that in mind, horizontally aligned holes would become much more important, and at the end I would use 45 degree connectors to split the wires, as it is heavy wire, and you really don't want to bend it that hard. With PVC they have what is called a street bend which is a much wider radius, which might be sufficient (your mileage may very :-) ). On the outlet, there is usually a cutting pattern that you can use as a gauge to tell you the exact amount to strip that will perfectly fit in outlet. You aren't the first person to forget about the drywall depth when mounting the box :-) , but mistakes are how we learn, and other people's mistake are the best, so thank you for showing the error. On the panel, there are usually smaller and larger punch out holes, and there are bushings that are applied to prevent any abrasion of the wire going through the box. That said, I would have used a larger hole, a bushing, and brought all four wires through the same hole. In your example there didn't seem to be any wires exiting on that side of the panel, but many people will not have that luxury, so I highly recommend that you kill the box before you start drywall cutting near it. All in all a great presentation for a DIY who has some experience, but remember that jurisdictions may require a permit to do this, and a qualified electrician's (or building code inspector) inspection before you seal up the wall. Usually becomes a serious problem when you go to sell the house, and FHA loan requires an inspector to come in to qualify for the loan. They love these installations, because, since it wasn't permitted and inspected at the time, it can't be "grandfathered". They will automatically require a "qualified repair" despite the fact that it works fine.

I must say it turned out to be a clean job, however, when using Tesla's plug-in mobile connector rated at 32 amps, you are required to use a 40 amp 2-pole breaker instead of a 50 amp. If you're planning on using the Tesla Wall Connector at the setting of 40 amps then you use the 50 amp breaker. Keep in mind that all Level-2 EVCS/EVSE charging equipment only requires two hot circuits and ground, the neutral wire is not used. The difference in cost is @ $56.00 before tax. Using the #6 Awg. is actually a good idea in case you decide to charge your vehicle at a higher rate with the Tesla Wall Connector only. The #6 is rated up to 85 amps. Up to a maximum of 50 amps a NEMA 14-50 or NEMA 6-50 is acceptable, anything higher will require it to be hardwired. On one last note, all conductors passing through an enclosure must have a protective bushing installed.

32:40. You should also test the ground connection, too. Ground and hots are 120V each and neutral to ground should be approximately 0 volts.

Thanks for the pointers. After reviewing several hours of DIY videos (such as yours), I was able to install my tesla gen 2 HWPC. It was a total pain in the..... but still saved me about 1k doing it myself. I'm going back to all the videos that I was able to get some key information and leaving a "thank you".

I have seen similar videos like this but most of them have loud background music, too loud and stupid silly jokes and forget important steps, finally one well explained and can understand what he is saying, well done.

Typically joints in wallboard are taped with paper or fiber tape to keep the drywall compound from cracking and having the crack reflect through the compound. It’s an aesthetic thing. Maybe no big deal in the garage. You can find tape next to drywall supplies at hardware store. The wide blade knife shown in the video is very useful in feathering out the compound over the tape. Great video. Thanks.

I'm not sure if you are aware, but the National Electrical Code (NEC) requires that all connections of lines the size you installed require fasteners at each junction point (ie- at the panel and at the plastic box. All the conductors must be inside the plastic sheathing and not exposed or open until they are inside the box. The better approach is to generally use a larger metal box for the outlet. Otherwise, great instruction video!

To anyone watching this wanting to do it themselves that have not worked with electrical stuff before, turn the power off to the entire panel and check it before doing anything behind the cover, just to be safe. 20mA can kill you. Behind the panel is a lot more than that. While getting shocked is a wake up call, you may not get a chance to learn a lesson if you make contact with the wrong things. The job turned out really nice though.

Brent! You will never understand how grateful I am for this video! I am in the Air Force living in SC right now. Your video allowed me to do this all on my own & save $$$. I did the outlet to surprise my wife before she got home from an assignment & before we go to pick up her Model S. I was losing confidence & looking at contractors before I found your video! Now I have 240v to my multimeter! Thank you so much!

"...Again, power is on, want to be careful", *plyers slip while he wiggles them cavalier af* . :D :D :D Thanks for the video, very informative!

Being a plain old DYI guy I always shut of the power first before doing anything having to do with connections other than initial set up of wiring. Also I always test to be sure no power to the lines and connectors I’ll be touching, I don’t assume anything.

Awesome post. One thing I would add is (being unfamiliar with the NEMA 14-50) I initially installed the outlet upside down. It was quick fix. Cheers!

BIG FYI to anyone buying a new model 3, they no longer include the nema 14-50 plug, you must buy it separately. As part of the gen 2 UMC you only receive the useless 110 volt adapter that will give you 2-3 miles per hour of charge. This was a great video, I already bought everything to add my outlet as per your instructions. I just got my model 3 and was REALLY disappointed in Tesla, taking that away from a $48K (before taxes) car, and making you buy it for $35? WTF, Elon?

Awesome work, Brent! You cleared up a lot of mysteries. I really liked the way that you removed large pieces of drywall. My electrician just cut out small squares of drywall and reached in with an angle drill. I didn't know that you could put wires directly into the side of your circuit breaker box, without worrying about the hot wire's insulation coming into direct contact with the box's bare metal? Maybe the smaller hole in the stud centered the wire? I'm not an electrician, it just bothered me. Thank you so much!

I have just that. I have a Rivian and a Tesla Model Y on order. I have a 65 amp service to my garage. I need to instal the exact plug, thanks for sharing. Well done.

Several comments: 1. With a 50 amp circuit breaker and a NEMA 1450 plug, you can only run the Tesla wall connector at 40 amps or lower. The Tesla wall connector is capable of charging at 80 amps, which charges the car up to twice as fast as at 40 amps. Sometimes you need to do a fast charge. So, if you’re going through the trouble of installing a dedicated power source for your Tesla and your service panel has al least 200 amp capacity, why not wire for 80 amps? 2. An 80 amp install for the Tesla wall connector requires that the connector be wired directly to the circuit breaker WITHOUT a plug in between. You will need a 100 amp circuit breaker, #3 gauge wire (preferably #2 gauge) and a 1” conduit (PVC 40 or metal) to connect the two. #6 wire is not sufficient for 80 amps. The circuit breaker needs to be sized 20% higher than the anticipated continuous load. That is why you need a 50 amp breaker for a 40 amp charger and a 100 amp breaker for an 80 amp charger. 3. The NEMA 1450 plug DOES require a neutral “white” wire by code, but the Tesla charger DOES NOT use a white (neutral) wire. The Tesla wall charger uses two “hot” 240 volt wires plus a ground-three wires. There is no place to connect a neutral wire on the charger. So why install a wire that will not be used? 4. 80 amps is A LOT of current that can easily start a major fire if the wall connector is not wired properly. So is 40 amps. There is no room for sloppiness. If you’re not comfortable wiring high current appliances and sure that you can do a proper job doing so, it might be worthwhile hiring a professional to do the job correctly, according to code. But if you know what you are doing and are capable, the install is straightforward.

Thanks for posting this video. Pretty sure you should put metal plates over every stud where the wiring passed through. Otherwise, the next occupant of the house might drill into the wall to install shelves and have an unanticipated 220 volt shock. Also, while homeowners are allowed to do electrical work in their own home without an electricians license, they are typically required to pull a permit and have the work inspected before covering it up with drywall. Check with your local building department for the regulations.

Really loved your video. Very well explain, even though that first thing you should do while working around an electrical panel is to shut off the power, you did the hell of a job. 👍👏

I need a 240v outlet for my Everlast welders. This video was very helpful.

Good job, Brent. Very clear and informative. I would have liked to have seen a fast forward of the dry wall and paint just to complete the video, but still great.

Excellent DIY video. Really clearly narrated and great video editing too. Brent, you're a natural teacher.

An easier way would be to run the wire up into the Attic , run it over to where you want to drop the wire down inside the wall and fish it out. Mount the box , feed the wire into the top of the box , hook up the 240v out let , pu the plate covor on then go to the braker panel , insert the breaker with the power off , attached the wires , turn the power back on ….

Two questions Why did you not use a 2 gang box for the rect. and why did you not use drywall tape on the drywall?

Nice work on the sheetrock. I normally just make a big mess. So will try this method next repair/install.

Thanks, for taking the time to show how to do this! Just bought a EV and want to do my own plug outlet without having to fork out more cash for something I know I can do myself. 😆

This was fantastic! Thanks so much. 99% sure I can get this done. I don’t even have to do the drywall work.

you are highly SKILFUL , IT LOOKS EASY BUT NOT FOR ALL . VERY INFORMATIVE

Thank you so much for this video. Thanks to your help I was able to install a 240V outlet for my Bolt EV. Saved my over $400!

Thanks so much for this tutorial. This was exactly what I needed! I’ll be closing on my new house next month and I’ll be getting my model 3 next year! This was awesome! Please post more videos. Your style is easy to learn from and lots of non diy guys like me with zero experience can learn a ton from you. God bless.

Thank you very much Brent Ely for sharing and making this video, million thump up, I did and follow like this vid, very informative this video for me, thanks again

You totally rock. Nice work and explaining. Is there something one should do to mark where the new wire is so if you cut the drywall again for some reason, you will not cut the live wire by accident?

Best step by step video on RU-vid! Great job! This video really helped getting power for my Tesla.

Thank you for the information. Great video. I will turn off the power while I work. Take no chances with current especially for a novice.

You are a good teacher. Lesser thought about details, you include.

Cutting drywall was a good decision. You could cut the drywall near the panel. You should have used 2 gang outlet box. Splitting romex wire outside the box doesn’t look good. You should have used protector at the holes of the main panel. Splitting romex wires outside the main panel is a building code violation. Even if you turned off the power, always use gloves when touching the panel. Someone could turn the power on. They could be your kids, parents, wife, or neighbors. Good work overall !!!

Dremel, Dewalt, Ridged, Makita drywall cutting tools. Set at the right depth 1/4" or 1/2". Could make it quick and easy. TURN OFF THE POWER. Safety first.

They make 3/4 water tight conduit and connectors - much safer than open wires in a wall. Metal plates on top of the studs another idea to protect someone hanging a massive wood screw into the studs, puncturing your open wires, and electrocuting themselves. Code in many cities does not allow these open conductors (wires). Testing hot1 and hot2 to ground was not done - should have been done before claiming its safe. Silent on Circuit breaker ? amps? Wire should be #8 as smallest? Ground wire at outlet should not be exposed and sitting on wood. FIRE. Drywall should grove out paper enough to hold width of drywall tape, apply the tape and then mud. Wet sponge makes much better than sanding to float.

made me want a telsa even more thanks for sharing

Nice job although I think I wouldn’t have left the power on while working so close with metal tools.

Nice vid but a little light on the safety. Thanks for sparing us the music. A general tip for DYI'ers from an Electrical Engineer: Never use the meter for the first time on a project to check that there is no power. Check your circuit BEFORE you open the breaker. Confirm you see voltage. THEN open your breaker and check again. This ensures that indeed you are using the meter correctly and the meter is working correctly and that you have no power where there was power two minutes earlier. Basically, you've ensured you're not a dumbass before working in the panel. I've seen rookies use the wrong setting on the meter (resistance, current, or DC volts). They see a zero or an OL ("what the hell is OL anyway? Must be zero. I'm good"). I saw one of them get on the circuit. Looked like Joe Cocker singing...

I liked your video. You are obviously a professional electrician. Very knowledgeable. Very detailed. I thought that you were going into the attic and run the wire down the wall. I never thought about going sideways. Very neat installation. It may have taken a little more effort, but you didn't have to go into the attic. I liked that. You have given me the confidence to do this myself. Thank you.

Amazing work, looks clean like pro 👍🏼

I don’t give f***. good job man!! Ignore all the bad comments!! I also work with a live panel if you know what you doing! You don’t need to scare!!

Good enough BuT there are requirements for box volume. You should have used a 4x4 box not a 2x4. That’s why that plate is so big. Also check out the meters in Amazon for 2pole, for less than $30 you can have a continuous meter for your EV. Not needed but pretty cool for track the EV actual drawn (gross) power and cost Vs the cars reported net usable power after going through the cable and conversion.

Great work. Thanks for the video. I have the same project. Looks like there's no height regulations for your wire run? I plan to run it much lower, the feed it vertically to the outlet. Only challenge will be stapling the vertical portion.

Very good very clear explanations Thank you

Great video overall, very educational! You really really should have used a larger box so you could put the 6/3 wire in with its outer insulation and connect it to the NEMA 14-50 without splitting the wires outside the box. Same on the other end, should have drilled a big enough hole to get the full 6/3 cable into the panel.

Wow, great skills and what a video!

On the whole nice job. I could nit pick here or there but it would serve no purpose. Good job, lots of very useful information.

This is the best video I've see on youtube so far, Great job BTW!

Only comment I have (coming from an electrician).... you cant just pull a wire into a panel without a connector to secure it. More than likely it wont move but what if someone else opens the wall and pulls on the wire and the ground touches the hot bus? It doesnt meet code without it. Other than that I enjoyed your vid.

Pleasure to meet you!

The orientation of the outlet's ground pin is important. If upside down , your charger cable will not hang right and you'll need to fix that before your show-n-tell.

Great video man! Thumbs up.

WOW...loved the video....!!!

Thanks for video. I could have used a better zoom on panel where you inserted wires.

Meanwhile in the rest of the world all our plugs are 240 volts.... Hello from NZ 😎🇳🇿🇳🇿🇳🇿🇳🇿🥝🥝🥝🥝🥝

Like detailed video, best I ever saw...Super Easy ? You crazy, Love You man

Not sure if it’s up to the code, but I would have just used a metal conduit pipe to house the wire inside and reach the outlet location from the panel, instead of cutting such a big drywall and drilling through multiple studs. The conduit can be lower on the wall so it doesn’t interfere with things you may hang.

Good job ! Well explained. Thanks

Very helpful. Thanks!

This is an impressive and helpful install video, but the lip your packing is way more impressive! What’s your go to dip?

Haters are gonna Hate , they go through life like that , they are sad angry people . . Good job.

This was super informative! Thanks for the detailed instruction.

Nice, informative video. Thanks.

Nicely done

I would’ve just ran EMT 😂😂😂 great video though brother

I have a question: If i live in a condo.. and the circut breaker is in my closet in the second floor. My car is right outside on the other side of the fence. Would you recommend me instaling a 1450 down in the first floor and somehow finding a way of running a line from the circuit breaker? (ps. my dryer is in the first floor which is closer to the car but still much longer than the 24 feet that come w/ the cable for the wall connector).. thanks

Very good job of explaining the process. What does the whole charger install cost? Was it for a Tesla? Where do you get the charger, amazon or Tesla?

Great video man, very clear and to point, now would you need a permit for this?

Wow.. very informative step-by-step info. Thanks for sharing this video.

You forgot to use tape over the joints of the drywall when you applied mud to the joints therefore the joints will definitely crack

no nail guards on the studs, and why so long of a length? Couldve had the plug near the breaker panel but hey as long as it works right?

Great video, very helpful. Thanks.

Thank you.. your video save me a thousand $, ill be careful.

Thanks made this too easy

You are the BEST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Excellent job. You are a very good instructor. Very clear explanation of basic electricity and the precautions needed at each step. Don't mind the negative comments, let see if they can do a better video. Did I miss the part where the Tesla charger gets installed? Looking forward to future videos. Thanks

I enjoyed the video, but my breaker is the other side of the house to my garage. Can't imagine I'd attempt to do that myself, but I found this interesting nonetheless.

Thanks for sharing with with such detail info, very helpful ！

Nicely done. I wish you had switched off the mains before you opened the bus box.

Great job, thanks.

Thank you. Did it myself as a girl and save 1k.

Great editing!

Really nice job with this video, thank you!

Thank you Brent. That was one superbly done DIY video.

Nice job

Opened up all that drywall for one outlet? LOL I hope you have a 2 story house...

Great video!!

How many kW do you get as you charge? 11kW=240*46A? Ironically, I have 10.8kW of solar on the roof, but it’s E/W son the inverter is only 7.6kW. Pretty awesome to be driving on sunshine now (or cheap wind/nuclear at night). My upgrade will require finessing wires through 1” conduit 130’ to my detached garage. I’ve been 110 charging at 1.4kW for four months now and that gets me 10% per night. Fine as I mostly just drive around town and there are some convenient 6kW chargers in parking lots on campus.

Very informative video. I do have a question. The Tesla mobile charger.kit comes with about 16 feet of cable. So I am wondering why you felt you needed to open up all that dry wall rather than install the NEMA 14-50 outlet closer to the breaker panel and then run the cable to the charging port of your Tesla externally? Would have required less stud drilling. I am sure I must have missed something in your explanation.

Awesome work. Making it look easy. Great directions.

nicely done sir!! me likey!!

Well. I decided to hire an electrition after watching this.