Hey! I covered A LOT of information in this video, so I placed timestamps below to help you navigate this video. Also, you can join the channel using this link ru-vid.com/show-UCUJXaEduMHGB3Iap3DusmAAjoin . We would love to have you as member! NEMA Outlets Explained 00:28 240 Volt Supplies 04:14 6/3 Wire Rough In 06:53 Metal Electrical Box Installation 08:13 NEMA 14-50 Outlet Options 11:10 240V Outlet Installation 14:45 Connecting 6/3 Wire To Panel 21:04 50 AMP Breaker Installation 24:37 240V EV Car Charging 27:38
As a self-proclaimed RU-vid electrician 😥, that's the 1st time I've heard about wiggling stranded wire then re-torquing the screws. Thanks for that! I've wired a hot tub, pool heat pump and an EV charger. After seeing this video, I'm definitely going back to verify those screw torques. I also originally cheaped out and installed the Levitron 14-50 receptacle. I had a 2nd EV charging cable available which I solely used for this plug thinking as I won't be unplugging/re-plugging the charger daily it should be fine. However, the cheaper quality receptacle got significantly hotter when charging at 32A, so I'd end up reducing the current to prevent over-heating. Bought the Hubbell receptacle soon afterwards and haven't had the same issue again. Great detailed video. Cheers!
Nice job. In reference to the outlet placement for stoves, I recommend reviewing the stove install instructions. There is normally a diagram for the placement for the outlet. I really enjoy your channel.
13:30 Like you said not all NEMA 14-50 outlets are the same, I would add that the duty cycle of an EV charger can be drawing 50 amps continuously where a standard range outlet was designed to handle the intermittent duty cycle of a range.
I installed mine the same way with the same receptical concerns. I also under sized my load to 40 amps because I was concerned about heat created by impedence with such a continuous draw over a 2-3 hour period. I used romex 6/3 due to electrical code but I think that other cables may be better at heat dissipation.
Don’t wrap your ground counter-clockwise like he did in this video. If you watch closely as he tightens the ground screw it pushes the wire out of the screw. ALWAYS go clockwise when you wrap your wires. This goes for receptacles, and literally everything you wire.
If you noticed, it's a loop, not a hook. Therefore, it's "wrapped" in both directions. Even if he wrapped it the other way to make the loop, it would be the same U shape around the ground screw. Think about the physics. What he did is just fine. The only difference is which side of the loop gets wound tighter and which side gets loosened slightly. You could argue it's slightly better to have the length going to the receptacle tighter because it's going to get moved around, but in practice it will likely have the same impact either way.
@@802Garage Bullshit. As the faster tightens it naturally unwinds the loop. Any movement has the wire detach.The terminal is of such poor design, having no means of restraining wire moving from under the fastener. Every trade qualified professional electrician knows this... yet you think it's all A-OK.
Excellent video instruction of how to rough-in and install a 240 v outlet. This was extremely thorough and very concise. I feel confident that I could now undertake this work on my own. The only two questions I still have are; 1). What size mudring should be used depending on the thickness of the drywall? and 2). Why not use a two gang box to eliminate the need for the mudring? I think part of the answer is what you said about the mudring providing more room in the ox. I get that there is only one device and not two switches or outlets that would require a two gang box but the two gang has the four ears or tabs you'd need to secure the device to the box. Is this just a preference thing or is there another reason for this? These are sincere questions. I'm not being critical. I know enough to be dangerous and just like to have all of the information before undertaking work. Either way, I'm going to follow your lead thinking that if it's good for your house... then, it's good for mine. I'm asking in the event you respond before I've started / completed the work. Thanks in advance and all the best to you. Keep up the good work. 👍
@@TheExcellentLaborer You're very welcome. You're helping people not burn their houses down! LOL but don't be shy about putting in your video (If you learned something or found the video useful, please click the thanks button). You should get paid at least a couple of bucks from everyone that found more than 2 bucks worth of information, these videos are not easy to make and take a lot of time and effort. I appreciate that but especially the important information. Thanks
Excellent and informative. Just as a minor point unless you intentionally want annoy the hoyti-toyti grammar gestapo types (and your 6th grade English teacher): for describing certain measurements in the Imperial (aka "English") system, most people use "feet" for multiples of a foot of length, and "foot" when using an adjective to modify (or describe) an object. E.g., a pole which stands ten FEET in height could be described as a ten-FOOT pole. Most people would say, "It's ten FEET," and not "It's ten foot." That's why they'd say a 12-inch ruler is "12 INCHES" long (and not "12 inch" long). Another example could be: "It's three MILES to town," and not "It's three mile to town." But it is perfectly acceptable to say, "It's a three-mile road to town."
Why a 50amp breaker and not a 60 amp breaker (double)? The Tesla website says you get a faster charge on a model Y (which I have) if you use a 60 amps. I'm new at this. Thanks, great video BTW!
Neither the receptacle nor wire in this use case are rated for 60A per NEC code, as you have to use the 60°C Ampacity column, so it's only good to 55A. You may be able to use a 60A breaker if you hard wire a charger rated for 60A. You could use 6 gauge wire for it if the charger itself is rated for 75°C. If it's only rated 60°C, you would have to step up to 4 gauge wire.
@@802Garage Correct me if I'm wrong, but couldn't a hardwired Tesla charger be directly wired with 4/2 SEU cable? (No need for a neutral?) This video is installing a receptacle for the ability to also use it for a welder.
@@darrendolphdragos9752 You are correct there is no need for the neutral. I'm looking at the Gen 3 Wall Connector install manual and internally it is only wired for two powers and a ground. You absolutely do need the ground though and 4 gauge copper cable is necessary to be code compliant with the maximum rating of 48A output. The Tesla install manual says to use a minimum of 6 AWG 90°C rated copper, but that is not actually adequate for the 48A output. This is for a couple reasons. #1 Is that the Tesla charger does not specify the temperature rating of its terminals. Therefore according to NEC 110.14(C)(1)(a) any equipment rated for 100A or less and unmarked must be treated as though it is rate at 60°C. That means 6 gauge copper can only support 55A according to the NEC ampacity charts. #2 The reason the wiring and breaker used must be rated to support 60A is because the Tesla charger is considered a continuous load device. According to NEC 210.19(A)(1) The circuit components must be rated for the noncontinuous load plus 125% of the continuous load. In this case there is only a continuous load of 48A, so 125% of 48A is 60A exactly. Therefore, all components to hook up the Tesla charger must be rated for at least 60A with a 60°C rating, meaning a 60A breaker and 4 gauge copper wiring. You may not use aluminum wiring because the Tesla Wall Connector install manual says "COPPER WIRE TERMINATIONS ONLY for landing in Wall Connector wirebox terminals. Conductors can be stranded or solid." So not only does Tesla say to use copper, but it would be an NEC violation to go against what the product documentation says, even if 4 gauge aluminum could support the load. The problem is they don't actually make 4/2 NM-B copper wire or similar. So your option is basically to run individual THHN/THWN wires through conduit. I'm assuming Tesla was trying to skirt the rules with the easier 6 gauge copper recommendation, but it isn't correct. You could use 4 gauge aluminum and then use a Polaris or appropriate connector to splice to copper for landing the connections, but I wouldn't personally. The good news is per NEC Table 250.122 I believe you only need a 10 gauge ground for the 60A load rating, so that saves a little money.
@@802Garage (Note I'm just spit balling here.) I would conclude then, if the run is long (Like, the panel on one end of a rancher, and the garage on the other) to run #4 SE cable to a co/al rated disconnect switch or non-fused cutout block (like those used for outdoor condensers and heat pumps) and then copper THHN/THWN through LFMC hardwired to the Tesla charger. Now I wonder if GFCI protection would be required? Thanks for your input.
@@darrendolphdragos9752 Yep you could definitely do that! The Tesla Wall Connector manual specifies that the charger itself has GFCI protection and states not to use a GFCI breaker so you would be all set.
I just want to caution everyone that using NM cable for this circuit limits you to the 60 degree column for Ampacity (NEC 334.80), that's 55A here. Furthermore, maximum current based on a continuous load should be no more than 40A's on this circuit since 125% x 40 = 50A. Therefore, never plug a 48A smart charger into this receptacle as some homeowners down the road may do and perhaps label the receptacle to say 40A MAX if you are going to use these 32A mobile charging cords. Note: even if you use 6AWG THHN rated at 90 degrees, your receptacle can only be used for less than 50 Amps. For me personally, I don't even install receptacles anymore for EV's, as they were just never designed for these high and continuous loads over periods of 8 hours or more. Also consider the constant unplugging and plugging in at the receptacle; your terminals will be lose in no time with a chance for arcing and a fire very high. Buy a hardwired smart charger instead and have it installed by a licensed and insured professional!
"Also consider the constant unplugging and plugging in at the receptacle" Good guidance however this part wouldn't happen as the charger would get plugged into the outlet and left there. No different than a dryer or other appliance.
If you are charging a EV with that Recepticle .. the plug should not be plugged and unplugged.. it should just be plugged. . You plug and unplug at the vehicle 😂😂😂
You are correct. Technically you should set your Tesla Wall Charge (or whatever you use) to charge at 40 amps (or 44amps if you have that option, which I have with my two Tesla wall connectors in power sharing mode. 44A x 125% = 55 Amps. That's where I'm set because I made the mistake of running 6 gage Romex and now the basement if finished and it would be a nightmare to run #4 or #6 THHN. But I'm happy at 44 amps.
You’re using a heavy duty 50A outlet, however people can still use 40A charging rating only😂 not 48A max rating. Because you didn’t count continuous load factor and nm-b wire rating. Plus the breaker is a 80% rating breaker. Car charger is a continuous load. So when sizing the conductor you have to time 125%. 48A*125%=60A Romex wire 6 awg only carries 55A So in the future the homeowner should better not set the charging rating on 48 max, only 40A. If someone really want to charging on 48A max, electrician should use 4 awg romex or 6 awg mc
Just to be clear, Torque specs are in inch pounds not foot lbs. Also, it's best practice to use a proper wire stripper instead of a razor blade, that way you won't risk nicking the conductor with the razor blade.
Newton-meters, too. And in my industry (aviation), there are approved wire strippers that must be used to avoid the likelihood of a violation. I'm surprised how many youtube experts use what would be unapproved tools to strip and crimp wires. Those tools are not excessively expensive, and with them it's almost impossible to harm the wiring or make a connection that is subject to loosening and arcing/catching fire. . .if it's good for a Boeing it's great for my house and vehicle.
@@Resist4 he didn't say "Foot" or "Inch," just "Pounds," which is meaningless measuring torque. However, given that size torque driver, I'd assume it's an inch-lb device.
I'm by no means an electrician, but have Don electrical work and taught by some great electricians. I was always taught when tightening wires against a box to route the wire in the same direction the wire tightens. That way the screw doesn't push the wire out, it draws it in. Use wire strippers not knives especially razor blades. When tightening lugs, tighten, back of, tighten, back off then torque. Also anytime adding new wire to a panel to kill main power. The person who taught me had a saying. The day you get complacent is the day you will get hurt or killed.
" I was always taught when tightening wires against a box to route the wire in the same direction the wire tightens" - When the wire is completely looped IE: out of cable, around screw, then into receptacle... it doesn't matter. Looping clockwise only matters on an open ended (cut) "hook" loop of wire.
Should never ring insulation on any wires but use the pencil sharpening method. Too easy to put snall nicks on wire causing it to break if bent a few tines. Very seldom see DIY'ers or electricians bother to use a torque driver to titghen screws. Has been a code requirement for at least last ten years.
You wrapped the ground the wrong direction.bro. The difference between 240 and 220 V AC would be the system you're connected to whether it's a delta or wye connected transformer on utilities, total watts of the load divided by the voltage will give us the amperage. With respect to design, we need to add a De-rating factor for continuous load! As you would never run a 50 amp circuit at 50 A, no no no, typically the NEC provides tables for the de-rating , based on continuous use with respect to heating the conductors So we use the 75° column, so this infrastructure you've put together for this circuit connected to a receptacle in your example should only be used at 80% of its max 60 amp rating somewhere around 45amps. Depending upon de- rating. It's important to understand the implications of such a large load connected with a receptacle i.e. cord connected. Let's take a residential kitchen into perspective we could put this circuit to a kitchen stove as you've laid out, which would never run continuous with respect to PWM heating cycle , however, once we utilize this circuit for an EV charger, the load characteristics dramatically change. With respect to PWM cycling So with respect to conductor heating.. This is based on duty cycle with respect to the load characteristics. Typical duty cycle of a residential range / welder is 10 to 20% typical duty cycle of a charger is 60% or greater…. Laymans terms things melt if everything's not de-rated properly.. Considering charging your car is not like cooking a turkey where you're constantly watching it you will need to hardwire everything once you've probably designed the circuit for continuous operation… I give you this feedback with the utmost respect as you have 470,000 people subscribed your channel. I have no one subscribe to my channel.. Peace. Bro. be Safe!
That’s why he shows you 2 outlets. The heavy duty hubbel outlet is for the EV charger and will withstand anything. They are made for commercial applications.
Excellent video. Would you mind sharing which torque screwdriver you used in this video? I did not see it mentioned in the list of tools used in this video. Thank you. Also, did you really torque the screws to 75 in-lbs?
Thank you! I’m not sure the exact brand of the screwdriver because I borrowed it from a friend for this install. I had the dial pass 70 to get the torque which should be around 75 lbs. I hope that helps!
man, you really showin'um how it's done. There only two types of "how to" videos that work. This is one way and the ones where they let the pictures do the talking. So, if you're going to talk and explain how to do something do it like The Excellent Laborer. strait to the point clear good explanation and white board with the actual examples of necessary materials. I got exactly what I was looking for with one video. cool thanks. I subscribed.
ohh I just recently took delivery of my Cyberbeast truck and ill be installing the wall charger myself . Not to worry mate this wouldn't be my first rodeo I put in a new main panel and meter with main service entrence including a new 240v 50A line for a range in my kitchen. I'm not an electrician but I know what im doing. I'd never attempt a project if im not sure i can do it.
Great video. One of the best I've seen. Just call it 240v. In 38 years I've never measured 110v or 220v. All voltage is nominal from the power company, but they have been supplying higher voltages for my entire life
Excellent video and explanations. Technically you installed a 120/240 volt outlet. For those that do not want to spend $90 for the receptacle, Bryant (owned by Hubbell) same exact device is approximately half price. Why cheaper? If Hubbell can get named in the specifications for a large project, then higher profit. They bought Bridgeport out in 1991 which makes the Bryant devices. Never use cheap receptacles for car chargers. They overheat.
For EV supply equipment, direct wire is the way to go. Much less possibility of the equipment melting down vs the cord and plug method. Also, you would avoid an unnecessary expense of the outlet. The cheap leviton outlets are fine for a range, but are a legit fire hazard on EVSE. The wire used for direct wire will save some $$ as well. EVSE use 2 wire with ground and don’t require a neutral. I do like how this installer used a torque screwdriver. Properly torquing the terminals are important for every install (just look at manufacturers instructions), but especially when there is a significant current draw.
Another video where you show what an excellent instructor you are Jost. Lots of detail, clear explanations but yet you keep it moving. I will say that in the elec business a 50A range outlet is x dollars but if you say it''s for an EV it always seems to be 2x dollars lol. Good explanation of why an industrial grade plug is worth the extra money. Thanks for sharing your skills and knowledge!
according to the ne, a 30 amp circuit is approved for a welder even though the welder has a 50 amp plug on the cord. the receptacle must be label for welder use only.
How to install a 240V outlet... you call a freakin ELECTRICIAN. What are you, crazy? Hire a pro. That said, cool video, I love knowing how things work even if I am hiring a pro. Makes me a smarter consumer. Thanks!
Josh, excellent descriptive YT video on installing a 50 amp outlet for a EV charger. I would let the viewers know that the 6 nomenclature on the 6-3 wire stands for the AWG or gauge of wire needed to withstand the 50 amp current draw.
Hopefully you are still active on this channel. Just wondering if I can extend 240v wired from my room to the garage. I used to grow weed in the room and needed 240v to give power to my 8 light control box. Now that I don’t need it anymore I was wondering if I could extend those wires to my garage. So I could charge a future ev? Can I add flex to those wires being ran to my garage?
A VERY CLEAR demonstration video! Good job! The only omission, however, is that the 2-pole breaker MUST be a GFCI-type breaker per NEC® 210.8(A)(2) and 625.22. Any personnel protection against ground faults internal to the EVSE protects SOLELY the EVSE OUTPUT CORD to the EV but NOT the EVSE INPUT CORD from the NEMA 14-50R receptacle to the EVSE. (Technically that GFCI-type breaker would eliminate the need for refund GFCI protection integral to the EVSE UNLESS the EVSE performs power conversion [nearly all DO NOT convert]). - Brian Rock, Hubbell Incorporated, I also serve as a CMP-2 and a CMP-15 Member but this is strictly my own position (not NEMA’s and not NFPA’s) I also am one of the 7 co-authors of the original (1996) NEC® Article 625 for Electrical Power Research Institute (EPRI).
Brian, I'm in the middle of wiring my detached garage right now, and am having some trouble figuring this one out. It seems that the manufacturer specifies NOT to use a GFCI outlet for an EVSE 40 amp charger (50 amp breaker), and that the EVSE has GFCI built in. That said, I note your comment above regarding input/output. My issue here is that these chargers are known to trip a GFCI outlet or breaker, much like a tredmill does. What is the work around here in order to have a reliable appliance and meet code? My charger is corded - specifically a JuiceBox Pro 40 model and I id wire it into a external waterproof housing containing the NEMA 14-50. For that matter - any recommendation for wiring in a treadmill in a detached garage as well? I plan to dedicate an outlet for this and wiring it straight to the panel on a non-GFCI/AFCI breaker. Any suggestions?
Might also want to inform him that the item in his hand is a device, not an outlet. The device in this case is a receptacle, not an outlet, which is installed in an outlet box.
Also, if you have side cutters or really your strippers, you can score the romex and rip it without damaging the wires, you get a much cleaner look in your panel. Strip your wires before going into the panel.
I have watched A LOT of these tutorials and done A TON of research into the actual code provisions pertaining to 240V receptacle installs. This is the first video I can point to that is essentially mistake and code violation free. The only exception being GFCI protection, but we all understand why you didn't go that route, hahaha. Awesome job! Will be my go to video to share with others looking for good info.
@@deang5622 I'm not going to go through the entire comments section to find your specific post. If your biggest issue with this video is how he strips off the wire sheathing, I rest my case. You'd be friggin' amazed to see how many electricians do it. 99% of DIY people watching this video are not going to have Romex strippers. This is one of the best and most complete videos on the topic for sure. You can find something wrong with anything if you try hard enough. Nobody is going to have every single piece of information perfect and give every piece of advice possible.
Don't ever use the light weight NEMA 14-50 for EV charger. It will eventually catch on fire. It might be tempting to try and save $80 but it's not worth burning your house down!!!
It is trifazic 240v/220v ac connection w/o nul but w/GND. The RST fases order and color wires I think are not important or are important for connection?
Using a knife to strip the insulation. Definite no no. Why not get yourself some automatic wire strippers? Safer, quicker, doesn't damage the cable. How can you be a professional and yet use such poor techniques?
Can you please explain to me about the 6-3 Wire. I know I'm supposed to get a 6 Gauge wire, but is each individual wire a 6 Gauge? or are they smaller gauges individually. I'm trying to do my research and get the correct wire and hubbell receptacle. if not I might end up just getting a professional.
Recent code revisions require GFCI outdoor or in garages above 20A but that is only for branch circuits (welder, range, EV charger) but it is not allowed on feeder circuits (RV outlet--anything with a subpanel). The same 14-50P could be either.
Great video as usual, regarding installing a 50a breaker on my sub panel and specifically capcity. I have a new Tesla and want to add a 50a breaker on my garage 100a sub panel. Can you confirm that this is no-no please?
It is VERY rare to find an RV that uses a 240v outlet. In all my years RV'ing I have never seen one and actually you can't even plug into a 240v receptacle with the standard RV plug. Not sure where you got your info on this.
I notice your wires directly into your breaker but the electrician that quoted me said I need to install a GFCI breaker to protect my main breaker and EV Vehicle. Any suggestions?
For one you use the wrong box, you should have used the side Hung then you would not have to put a piece of wood behind it and you wouldn't have screws in the side of the box that might Nick The Wire.
For anyone who has had the surgery, have they had hand issue after. Im 2 months post surgery and can not make a fist or have any grip. I have tried doing research but im coming up blank. Tia
After 40+ years doing electrical work, 30+ as a lic. elec. contr, I never thought it a good idea to try and teach a homeowner how to do electrical work. The $ they might save doing the work themselves, will be pennys to the loss they might suffer if their work experiences a catastrophic failure. There is a real important reason why one needs to be LICENSED by each State to do electrical work.
You are probably right. I'm an engineer and love DIY projects...so I've wired both homes we've built/expanded but I'm sure a licensed electrician is almost always the best choice.
I have an ev charger that is a 30 amp that requires a nema 6-50 plug and it recommends me to use a 40 amp breaker i was wondering if I can just use a 50amp breaker using a 6/3 wire
Hey if I used a 30 amp breaker for dryer and i move out the dryer and want to use the wiring for Ac/heater is that ok well of course i will have to change the outlets would that breaker be too high for a ac/heater ?
For a range, it is probably better to install under 8 inches to accommodate for standard or short drawer space -- that is the space behind the drawer that provides space for the plug. You might want to face the ground towards left or right -- some cords have the ground up and some have the ground down, and you want the loop to slide back in easy.
Your description should had said how to Install a 120/240 EV Charging circuit. In most units the neutral Is not needed but good to have for future use.
Say you have a 220 in your house and you want to flip it out to your garage is there any way to connect to that 220 and add multiple plugs and if so how
