Great video, I'm sure someone is in the garage today fixing there interference problems because you took the time to explain and show us. I once had a throttle stick wide open because I was just beginning my journey in the backyard mechanics universe. 😮
Just to laugh.. once I figured it out.. it was funny,, 318, with BBD .. stock air cleaner,, breather hose, if not aligned correctly,, hose will,, Touch the throttle cable.. with heat, rubber gets a good amount of friction.. just holds cable..
Bear something else in mind, Tim is saving approximately $300-$400 doing this, there are very few intakes that will perform as good as a factory 4 barrel for a Mopar. Thanx, Great Job.👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸
Ahhh that brings back memories of back in the day when I was young. Glad to see someone making a video for the up and coming MOPAR generations…good job Willrun! 👍
Tim ! That is a great manifold. With a 1 inch spacer that motor will sing. The only thing I have always hated is man the dam things heavy!!! Always got more power out of it. And 20 bucks!! In your dreams Tim! I would buy it if I saw one.
That’s a cheaper and awesome way to build it the way you want it to be keep up the great work you do and people will follow your advice and maybe do the same
I'm running a Thermoquad on the same spacer plate on top of my aluminum air gap dual plane intake and it works great. Also leave a small gap under the carb above that divider . Will help with flow and performance
I have never seen them for 20 bucks! Good buy! That is crazy how you guys down there can always find stuff so cheap. I found a guy trying to sell aluminum valve covers for 150 . The only thing the same was it was black. Different heights , different shapes,and even the fins. I just looked at the guy and asked him you do know that they are different.
@@richardmoerke9329 Yikes... Come on,, since kindergarten,, we played match.. hahaha these are the same.. when I sold for Classic Industries,, to new owners,, fyi, if you say Mopar out loud, you owe somebody 50 bucks.. Mopar or Nothing!! Mopar A Bodies Forever!!.. Thank you Jesus Chrysler and Holy Mother MOPAR.. @∅
I actually had to do the opposite when I mounted a Thermoquad on a square bore Edelbrock manifold. I used the same 1 inch adaptor just flipped the other way. I actually like the adaptor, because that 1 inch of additional space raises the carb up and improves the flow.
Even without modifications, Mopar Performance says that the factory cast iron Thermoquad intake manifold with a square bore carburetor adapter, makes more power with a square bore carburetor, than the older factory cast iron square bore intake manifold, with a square bore carburetor. Mr. Gasket and Fel Pro make intake manifold gasket's that block the exhaust crossover.
That's the way I did it on my no buck 318 too. Except that I also cut the diveider down about an inch between the secondary throttles. Seemed to work. With the stock short block, 360 heads home bowl ported and milled .070" for a 8.8:1 CR, comp XE 256 cam, 500 Edelbrock AFB and exhaust manifolds it more than met my expectations in the dyno. There was a couple of things. Despite of the small cam, the torque peak was at pretty high rpm, at 4500 rpm! And the peak power was even higher at 5300!! I think that the relatively big port 360 heads had something to do with this. It could have done the same power with ported 318 heads, I think. But the 360 heads were in good condition, and the original heads would have needed some work. Anyway, the engine seemed to work great. Smooth idle at 600. And 336 ft lb peak torque. What was most amazing to me, is that we started the pull at 1500 rpm, and it already made 285 ft lb there despite of the high peak tq rpm! The 500 carb seemed to be a little on the small side, vaacuum in the intake at high rpm, maybe worth a few horsepower. Peak power was 306 hp at 5300.
Those intakes are usually overlooked by the budget builder. I believe they are based on the old 340 HP intake (same casting mold) and run quite well. Only drawback, they are kinda heavy. For the salvage yard scrounger: These were used on mid to late 80s 318 cop cars, 360 engines in trucks & vans with the thermoquad, & 360 truck & vans from 85 thru 88 with a quadrajet. Note on the cop cars & truck engines with the Q-jet: The choke well is not finish machined so if you are running a thermoquad there will be no place for the factory choke. The late 70s & 80s Q-Jets have electric chokes. I like to run a thermoquad because those who don't know MoPars have no idea what it is. The usual response is "what the hell is that?".The big block version of the thermoquad will flow better than 800 cfm. Going the E-Broc or Holley way is the easy way out though. Hogging out the primaries the way you did it is the proper way to do it, simply using an adapter creates a lot of turbulence & restriction at higher rpms. That'll wake up a 318.
i'm a bit rusty with mopar stuff. is that a 340 or a 360 intake? what are the differences in runner design compared to the early 340 intakes? i'd think your mod would flow better than that spacer.
The 340's ('68-70's) had the 4-hole cast intakes. The '71-73's had the Thermoquads like I have here in the video, except, the 340 intakes did not have the EGR system. So these intakes would be 360 or 318 intakes.
@@318willrun interesting. so as far as you know the runners (length/size) are about the same? fun trivia: thermoquads came first on gm cars. the q jets had lots of problems with cooking gas in the bowl and the thermoquad was made to replace them.
Man I wish I had seen this a few mothns ago. I was using one of those square bore carb adapters on my spead bore intake and one of those upward bolts fell into the intake manifold. I didn't notice because it was kinda dark and I was in an AutoZone parking lot, I tried to fire up my car and that bolt got stuck in an intake valve and rendered my car undriveable. I could have avoided the mess if I had modified my intake like this.
Would it help to grind down that center divider about 1/4" or so ? I see some of the new manifolds are shaved down in the middle. Good video. Thx. Must be getting cold up there. It's been snowing here in Colorado. It's getting a bit too cold to work after dark out here in the back yard under my truck.
it can do multiple things. I can help the intake mixture straighten out. It can help a smaller carb act a little larger. It can help keep heat away from the carb, lowering the temp of the fuel.
Thermoquad's very rarely have a problem with vapor lock which is so common these days with the poor quality gas that we are forced to use. The phenolic (plastic) body keeps the fuel up to 20 degrees cooler, along with the thick carb gasket. So maybe consider rebuilding TQ if possible.
Hey Mr 318 got a quick question my van has a vibration as ur making a long sweeping right hand curve at 65 mph this started right before I messed up the engine engine is back in van while it was out I dropped tranny.serviced it and put 2 new universals in now on highway u get it above 60 an let off throttle it starts a violent vibration in rear area I checked lug nut all are tight checked to make sure all universal straps an cups were tight no slack no slippage of cups but as long as u have throttle diwn and torque on it vibration stops an there's times it will not vibrate first thing went through my mind was oops I left universals bolts loose but nope do u think it could be a bad right rear axle bearing since in the very beginning it was starting to vibrate only in a right ling sweeping curve wgrn u let off gas???ALSO THERES A DEBATE ON THE TYPE OF REAREND DIFFERENTIAL GESR OIL IM SUPPOSED TO PUT BACK IN IM GOING TO PULL HOG HESD COVER AN SERVICE IT CAN I PUT LUCAS 80W 90 DIFFERENTIAL GEAR OIL BACK IN IT AMAZON HAS IT ON SALE RIGHT NOW
Make sure your u-joints are centered in the yoke. As for rear end oil, I would use what the factory recommended for your year (probably 80w-90), Remember, if it's a sure grip (posi), you'll have to add the sure-grip additive or that will cause a growl and feel like a chirping/vibration also.
@318willrun thanks once again buddy and its a 83 ram van like your black van with 318 and a 727 torque flight transmission an a one wheel peel unfortunately
question i did all the upgrades on mine except plugging the cross over area what did you use inside the small oval port near the water jacket to plug that thanks.
Some pack tin foil in there, some use epoxy, but to block the EGR system, put a flat plate of steel in place of the vacuum EGR valve like this intake has.
After market intakes are cheap and easy to find. Sad thing is?? An after market intake will out perform the junk iron intakes used in this video. Being smart and managing your money while doing a good build means that you buy a aftermarket intake over modding a piece of junk iron.
I’d be the guy to disagree. I’ve run those 80’s iron intakes with similar modifications and they run hard. Most base performer intakes don’t pick up more than 5hp from a stock iron intake. The SBM “airgap” that everyone buys is equally junk with dismal flow numbers from numerous sources. Step up to a stealth or single plane if you are spending the $$ for aftermarket.
Rexmasters, I disagree as well, I seen the video he did, and the modified iron manifold did better than 3 cheap aluminum manifolds, much better. Of course the cheap manifolds were from $99 to $150 , if I remember correctly. So a $20 intake with some home modification and work better than a $99 manifold, I would go with the iron and modify it myself. Cheaper and better performance. What's not to like?
