This is part 2 of a three part series on how I made a new lead screw and nut for a Harig grinder. In the video you will discover how I prep for the nut.
im not a machinist by any means but am facinated by the metal working process my father in law is a machinist im an electrician by trade im obsessed with tools thank you fot teaching me
M.Dery, For sure, this presentation is very instructive. I was expecting that solution even if I expect that you will use a prefabricated nut. I never saw that kind of nut. And, for most, I did not expect that this nut should be inserted into that actual support. Also, I like that you explain that we need to square the support and how to do it. Many, many thanks to you. Warm regards
Thanks for this series. Very instructional. I like how your vids are short and to the point, with tight editing and no long speeches. Cheers from Canada. Daniel
While I'm sure many would "just know" to do it; you didn't mention about making sure to lock the X&Y axis after doing such a good job of lining up your center point on the nut! Thanks for the vid - gives me more motivation to replace/rebuild the nuts on my 1984 lathe that are getting sloppy.
...still on target and creating good helpful content. Good job Dale! I knew you could do this and know greater things are on the way once all of your machines, tools, and shop are in order.
I'm actually doing the exact same job on a Niagra 10' shear with an adjustable back stop. The screws are in good shape but the nuts are destroyed. I had to opt for re-machining the entire nut thanks to it being one solid piece of bearing bronze and having another shaft perpendicular to the leadscrew thread integrated into the nut. An easy way to do the bore for those with a good lathe but without a mill (or a mill without a powered quill) is to bore/thread the nut using a 4 jaw on the lathe. Some aluminum or any other soft metal makes a great spacer for giving the chuck jaws a good register, in case they get hung up on the flange of the T. Great project!
I come from woodworking and watching your videos it`s getting damn hard not to get into machining, your videos are so interesting. Great content, thanks!
Thanks for your positive comment. I was a woodworker before a became a metal guy. But I need to worn you. The tools cost a lot more and they are real heavy lol 😀😀😀
Hi, just dicovered your videos a couple of days ago. Im learning a lot, Im a welder fabricator by trade, Your videos are very well explained, thanks again. By the way im in Canada near Montreal
Very nice tutorial on setting up a casting for machining. In model engineering of small engines this is a challenge. Set ups may take much longer than actual machining.
As always Dale, great video...! Again, you have a trick which I never thought of. This time it was the dowel pin in a collet to square the work piece... Simple, elegant. However, I'm a little concerned about the blood splatter on the vise? Red Dykem perhaps? :-) Cheers, Daniel.
Dale------ I have always shrunk fit parts like the journal you soldered onto the shaft. I never thought to solder one on. Great idea! I also would have never thought to glue the new internal screw into the bored hole. I probably would have shrunk a sleeve into the freshly bored hole and turned the internal acme threads. What a waste of time for me. respectfully: Bob Z.
good video i would have used 2 123 blocks and clamped it just like the 1st way you showed but using the 123 blocks sitting on the bolt flange. your way works but not super ridged. thanks for the video
I noticed you said you would glue the part with the threads in. It seems like all sorts of things are getting glued these days. I assume you will use loctitte. Will that be stronger than silver solder? I have a new boring head that I have not had the opportunity to use just yet. I guess I will have to invent some boring job. Thanks for sharing.
If you are using an Acme thread, why not split the nut on one side and use a pinchbolt to keep the tolerances tolerable as the thread wears? whyare some leadscrew nuts made of brass and others are not? Dale thanks for your efforts to enlighten us
Great questions. I thought of making the nut adjustable. But I didn't see that it would make the machine work better. The back lash is not that bad. Why I didn't use a brass nut. When you have two metals that slide on each other like a nut and screw you need to have one that is softer then the other. If you have two similar harness of materials they will bind and mar each other causing the parts to fail quicker. I used a soft acme thread so I could turn it down on the lathe, and a cast iron nut witch is harder then the screw. I feel this combination will last longer than a soft brass nut on a soft screw. Thanks for the question. Dale d
I'm an apprentice toolmaker and one of our milling vices brass leadscrew nuts stripped out. My job was to completely replicate everything. I started with brass hex bar and bored and screw cut a square thread at 8tpi. I took the hex bar to the mill and clocked it up and milled the profiles. We thought putting an insert in would have compromised the strength of the nut. But because your leadscrew isn't clamping it should be alright. Have you had a similar experience of a vice nut stripping?
Cool....i would really like to see the different ways to find center on a milling machine using indicators and what not. Its something i am struggling with and my journeymen have been on me about outside of using my starretg wiggler.
Dumb Question: Why not clamp the nut with the ground surface against the fixed jaw, and two 1-2-3 blocks on the flats, putting no pressure on the bore to distort it?
That's a good idea. One thing to lookout for is the quality of the casting if it is rough or the two sides are not parallel you might need to mill them down to insure a good tight clamp.
+Greg Koenig That is the way I would of done it, I think a bit more surface area, even I you had to mill the surface flat to get a seat. Both ways work though.
Another great video, thank you. One constructive criticism, though: There were too many camera cuts and it was a little hard to follow along at some parts.
Yes. well done but, what about my problem a have a Colchester master. lath that doesn't have the conventional two half huts, it one nut that rids on the upper half of the lead screw. & in my case ha never been fitted with a half nut or lead screw. I have to fit 8 trends to the 1" an unc led screw 1" in diameter & build a new half nut. with no paten to copy. but you have indeed given me a way to achieve. the result. i have no means. yet to cut a thread but i do have a 1" unc tap at 8 TPI so. tim to tap a hole. build the system from new. thankes. lad & No they don't mack part's now given it 150 years old. & only now getting a lead skew & nut. LOL .
Hi. I'm trying to fabricate my own twin screw woodworking vice, I know there are a few on the market. But I'd like to build one with fast travel lead screws, preferably 1 inch. Do you have any suggestions for where I can buy the screws and nut and what thread? Too much info out there and find what I will work best for my application, as far thread tip. Thanx.
Great video, Dale! Thanks for sharing with us. I always knew clamping a part deforms it a little, but never knew it was that critical. I mean, for the amount of pressure you applied on the part at the beginning, I'd assume a maximum of 1, maybe 2 thou. (Taking into account the part itself. It's not a thin-wall part by any means.) But 4?! Sheesh. I gotta reset my estimates. ;)
You could have used two 1-2-3 blocks to hold the base against the fixed jaw instead of making those two light cuts on the side. Are you a full time machinist or a hobbyist?
Great video Dale. A quick question in regards to your mill, how high is your riser? Just getting into machining and I bought a 10" riser for my Bridgeport, just wondering if it's maybe too much. Most of my work is on the large side, heavy equipment. Keep up the good work!
I would've done it differently... I would've put the nut in the vise on the flats, and milled it down to square specs... leaving the bottom side with a 1/4" key... then, mill a 1/4" keyway into the center of the plate, with the holes already drilled... and then, tig weld it down... and last, mill the bottom face flat, if the weld distorted it...
+Metal Tips and Tricks (Dale Derry) thats not the only splice i caught lol but hey I think wed all do it when we need to or have missing footage. keep up the strong work we appreciate your videos!
Would it not have made more sense to square off the new lead nut outside diameter and then make a new flat mount piece? TIG weld them together and face the flat piece of the mount as the last operation..
How much clearance between the major diameter of the thread and the bore you just made? (Essentially, what will be the wall thickness of the nut after machining?)
Nice video but, you sped up through the actual boring part. I know that's kind of slow for everyone but some of us have never used the boring head and would actually like to hear and see what it should sound like and hope that this doesn't come off as me being mean in any way. Thanks for the awesome video.
Gee, why not clamp it in your vice the way you had it a 1:15 and use a pair of steel bar spacers to apply clamping load onto the two flanges of your nut body? That's the right way to do it. The mounting face stays square with the vice jaws and mill axis.
Good question. The goal of this video is to think out side the box. What if you have a lathe with a worn lead screw. You cant use your lathe to cut a new lead screw. So what do you do. That is what this video is about. Plus the screw I bought was ground to .005" and I have no way to grind a screw to that torrence. I hope this anserws your question Kmal :-)
In most cases you are trying to get a machine back into service so you can make MONEY. Being a purist and making everything from scratch takes time and time is money.
