I always get a structural engineer to do my calculations and building control. I’d definitely like to have seen 2 steel beams supporting the new sub floor and roof. The floor span looks quite large for 5x2 timbers. I’d like to have seen 8x2 minimum. Do your supporting walls go from floor to ceiling on both up stairs and downstairs? I’ve done a few conversions 👍 Also remember to tell your house insurance about the change and remember the fire safety side of things protected stairways means if escape etc. Any questions ping me an email Alan 👍
CJR ELECTRICAL I have 3 x timbers bolted together, one is 4x2 and then 2 timbers 5x2 all bolted together, I haven’t removed the roof support yet. Thanks
Should be putting steels in for those floor joist.that beam you've used to hang off looks like the old summer beam to take the deflection in the ceiling joist.
Good job, note when you add the stares your building will be classed as 3 stories so you will need to update your fire alarms on each floor to be mains powered and you will also need to improve the fire rating on all the doors leading to the hallway...
First off, I think you have made a cracking good job of the stairs. Don't pack the insulation in too tight as it stops working if too tight. it is best to use the rolls of insulation, you can get this totally covered with paper so you don't get the fibers all over. Do have long-sleeved clothing on and if you start to itch wash in cold water and not hot or warm water as cold water will not open your pores up.
Hi Alan, if it's really just a playroom I would leave them struts in, they look to be forming a kind of truss to halve the purlin span and stop the roof spreading.You would need a seriously big purlin to span that without the midpoint support.
My brother in-law boarded his loft with the same flooring as yours, problem he had was sweating between insulation & flooring so he had to put vents in the boards, just to make you aware of the problem he had, good luck!!
No criticism buddy. To take on a huge task like that as a DIY task. Huge credit to you. All the best and I pray it turns out outstanding. Plus just think of the cost saving 😁 CHACHING in your pocket 💪🏽😎👍🏾
I don’t want to be one of those people, but this 100% requires Building Regs. You’ve made structural alterations to your roof and you’d need to address means of escape. You should have a protected stair from the loft to a final exit. Also, your floor joists transfer load onto your existing roof joists which aren’t usually designed for floor load. I’d recommend speaking with a structural engineer and Building Control. For your own safety of course. Nice bit of work on the stairs though
You’re doing a cracking job there matey. I’m doing a loft conversion myself......well I’m getting a pro to do the dormer and velux’s everything else I’m going to tackle, I’ve nearly finished my joists and floor, walls are partly finished.
Goldilocks time of the year to be buggering abaht in a loft. Not too hot, not too cold...just right! I was in a loft last month during the heat-wave ripping out CWST and F&E tanks n tidying up pipe runs. System-> combi swap. I refilled the CWST after bunging up the outlet and 1/2 refilled it.... Stripped off to mi undies and jumped in to cool off Then I noticed the wasps nest!!!!!!
You might need a steel RSJ to hold up your ridge point of the roof before taking out the brace. Make sure you fit fire line door frames and doors to the hallway and bedroom. Also make sure the trimmer to the new set of stairs is tied in or sitting on something solid so they don't drop if not supported enough. 😁
Firstly it looks like a really quality job, however....... Have you removed any of the roof trusses? If you have, you have to put a dwarf wall around the outside and reinforce the rafters. It looks like you've got perlins so you should be okay. Is it a detached house? If not you have broken the party wall act. You really need to get a structural engineer to take a quick look, it will be money well spent. I have had a loft conversion, it is very easy to get wrong.
@@jimjam1934 yeah you're right. When I had mine done, all loads had to be on the external walls. Local authority wouldn't allow any load at all on internal walls. I had to fit huge steel's. It's great if you never move house, if you do, without being signed off can cause massive problems. I'm sure he'll be fine.
If you are going to do DIY do it properly, my loft has been converted with all the required building regs so its a proper bedroom ( Large steel joists supporting the new floor, fire rated doors to the first bedrooms, smoke alarms wired to the rest of the house etc. It does concern me a little the work you have done not knocking you but would have got some advice beforehand.
My experience of plumbers, when I put in a new water main. Replacing a half inch shared lead service pipe, was not a good one. Not turning up or showing a interest in the job. I ended up doing all the work myself. MDPE 25mm pipe, digging the trench, ducting it up under the foundations, 1950s house 450mm reinforced concrete. Used a diamond core drill hired. 22mm stop tap reduced into 15mm for internal plumbering. Flow and pressure much better. Cost less then £150-200. Can shower now with out it stopping if a toilet is flushed or someone turns on a tap down stairs :-)
should have chicken wire in the floor with insulation on the top of it the stair trimmer should be on edge not layed flat floor hangers should be on a steel or at min hung from the new timber that you have dobbled up on also just my opinion you should of at least sandwiched a steel plate within the two timbers hope this all helps also get them dwarf walls in asap but again them timbers are not rite to me a lot of weight goes from the roof to them once this is done if you need any help feel free to reply mate
Hey Allen! Good stuff again. You are not brave to take it on, it’s just something that Plumbers/Heating engineers do, as we have always had to be a multi trade to overcome problems and situations in front of us and we do! Doing a project myself right now as I’ve moved as well. 10 out of 10 to you lad...
Good job having a go but top of stairs to joist don't look right. Beams, joists need to be calculated correctly as your adding lots of weight and normally a 225 timber would be used. Better off going slowly and double checking building regs etc as you go. Good luck though
Allen, the beam running across the top of the staircase shouldn’t be laid flat and should be doubled up to be structural. Also all timbers need to be c24 rated. I’m not knocking your work as a first Time attempt not to bad. But planning will say it’s for living as a case has been put in. Also some councils want Firedoors and closers fitting when 3 floors are to be accessed in one dwelling. You can get all charts for timber spans on line these will give you the right timber for the right span. For any future jobs. Hope this helps.👍👍
+Chris Colbeck Hi Chris, Very great full for your comments and sharing your knowledge. The timber across the stairs actually has 3 beams, all 6x2. The one you see underneath has two others on top of it. I do not want or need the room signing off as it’s just a play room, sort of an on suite from the small bedroom. C24 I didn’t know that, Thank you 🙏
Thanks for posting Allen. Im my house looks virtually identical so your video was very helpful. When you installed the supporting rafters (to support your floor) did you install them across the entire floor or did you only cover the area you'd be walking on?
are you going to have a building control to chek the structure is looks like you have a space for dormer there staircase looks good Allen looking for ward to see the end projects.
@@AllenHart999 only a suggestion Allen put in a steel box beam or ibeam to support the top of the staircase. My Dad was a building contractor we did atleast 5 loft conversions some a little ott with steels imho. But in order for it to pass we had to have load ratings calculated by a structural engineer. Even if you're only to use it as a play area. You might in the future take some heavy objects up and down those stairs. Looking forward to the underfloor heating project 👍😜
@Mr Brightside yes exactly my point. I foremost mentioned "classified storage". I've done full on loft conversions. The amount of rsj's we had to use were crazy. Everything has to be calculated by a structural engineer.
I have a question... Where did your Bramley accent go when you said "plaster board"? ;) Looks smashing. Good idea use the Lazer level. I had the same issue when converting my 1930s house but fixed the level by trail and error with spacers, took forever
Looks good.great playroom. Can't say I'm a fan of MDF. Might want some extra tread riser connection to stop creaks later on. Was having no tread overhang/extension a deliberate decision.
@@AllenHart999 gives space for toe and heel on the tread . While not having to reach far forward to the next step. Also reduces the footprint of the whole assent. While giving a more traditional look and facilitating the fitting of carpet Unwittingly shown in this vid,think they refer to it as a bull nose. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-HHpCPVAybs0.html I've always fancied building a Dutch staircase,(ever since going to Ann Frank's house in Holland) steep a ladder. They tend not to go round as many corners as yours have. Bravo.
Hi Allen. Yr box bedroom looks the same size as ours. And we are thinking of having the loft done to get extra space. What is size of your loft as our looks small but again looks the same as yrs. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks.
As a builder im im shocked at your work!!! ! You got a 4x2 timber supporting the stairs! Floor joists have not been made bigger! Good luck when you come to sale and they want to see building control has signed that off!!
Looks like you’ve got arse end way about it. You could of just taken 8x2 timber from wall plate to wall plate, bolted into roof spars and jobs a good en. Too much hassle there mate you’ve caused yourself
Hiya Allen sorry for a unrelated question I have a radiator at home upstairs that never seen to get hot but I have been doing some decorating and have had to go take 2 rads off now the the radiator that never get hot is starting to heat up I have a few ideas for what it could be. But what are are your thoughts on what this could. Thanks for your time. Keep up the good videos
Could be wrong, so apologies if I am. But think you may still need it signed off as you mentioned altering the roof structure by removal of supports. Building control I would of imagined will want to see structural designs and calculations to ensure the roof is not compromised. Not that I’m criticising, as often they go too far with building control and I’m sure you will make sure it’s all structurally sound and safe. Just another example of red tape like the windows and roofs. Did my G3 other week and they still want to inspect me like a DIYer so seemed hardly worth bothering with. But unfortunately they love their red tape. Lol but if you aren’t planning on selling any time soon, in some instances I’m inclined to say stuff them in regards to notifications as long as it’s done properly.
@@AllenHart999 Agree with the guy just get a Structural engineer to check that, I have just had one do a calcs/drawings for me on a couple of steels at home £200(for Calcs) quid down my way normally cheaper up your end for me to send to Building control. Mine was a first floor extension with a point load above a couple of openings, the reason for Building Control and Structural on these projects are normally just to make sure its safe....as some of the loads/forces flow down the building in other directions.
@@MrGlenfraser agree with the loads thing, the brace from the ridge will actually be in tension pulling up on the end of the shorter brace. The shorter brace will be resisting the deflection on the rafters and purlin which would be perpendicular to them, so a brace at any other direction would not be effective. Any solution would involve beefing up other parts of the roof as the forces will be transferred elsewhere.
@@JohnDuffell Thanks for the explanation. I find the whole subject of loads and forces on a structure interesting. To me it looks like a load of wood etc banged together, steel or concrete beams. Thanks for your input.... I would like to learn more, how did you gain your knowledge of the subject? any good books etc I can read? videos etc?
You’ve put the stairs in the wrong place they should be within the existing stairwell and so you have lost your box room It’s called robbing Peter to pay paul
Great attempt but it's a huge waste of money and time if you aren't doing the work to building regs. I doubt you can have stairs right next to a door like that. You are also missing a protective stud wall on the bottom three stairs, it looks dangerous being open like that. A toddler could have a serious accident on those stairs they look a nightmare to me. Sorry to say this but it is a design disaster.
Great job but sorry I'm not convinced you are a total d I y er the tools I notice in your loft nail gun chop saw mitre saw later level you must be very confident on the tools Great job looks good
If you can get it finished then that is very good because things cost too much of the fake paper call money to live they the financial blood suckers are changing to much of the fake paper
