DIY Mini-Me Bridgeport Feed Handle. 

....... “well, he said a lot of other shit too...... “ that’s funny stuff right there. Your shop teacher would be so proud you remember him ALL these years later. Nice handle. 👍👍😎👍👍

What? Oh sure I will take a beer while we wait for the others to catch up....thanks! And thanks for showing us how to do the handle. Brilliant!

Tut tut, fileing in the lathe chuck; with your watch on!! Nice way to do it though, I need a new handle on the tailstock of my Colchester, been like that for 30 years, maybe I'll get it done before Christmas.

I specifically liked your shirt, Mark. Go , Canada, go !!!.

Your engineers approach to these projects is always a pleasure to watch. I'm sure there are some skilled old timers out there saying oh I could knock that out freehand without all that measuring and "computering". Your computer knowledge and mechanical skills are amazing. Thank you for sharing them.

Nice to see that Preso is also a fan of Rebuilding Tally Ho with Leo from Sampson Boat Co !

Mark Presling --- I like your layout, it was clearly explained. I have used a similar technique many years back. I thought it died with the dinosaurs. It was refreshing to view your video. Two thumbs up.

Gday Mark, thank you for the shout out and kind words, the speed handle handle turned out absolutely awesome, this is much better then the original one, I’ve been searching for a scotch brite wheel but there only in the USA, I need to search more, I’m very keen to see the new project, that looks extremely interesting, thanks again mate, cheers Matty

Hi Preso - that was a very interesting method for making the handle. Almost CNC! The buffing wheel does such a great job. I am looking forward to mine coming in the post. Looking forward to the big upcoming multipart project. Cheers, Craig

Turned to perfection 👌👏👏👍😀

I'm interacting to show my support for the channel.

Brilliant work - thanks mate. Now I know how to do it.

She's a looker! Great to see this come together. Nice technique on the handle, the quality time spent polishing really paid off.👊👍

Love the humor. Handle truned out nice.

Used to go to Eden a lot when I was in the navy to receive and unload ammo for the ships. Gorgeous spot

I like the methodology. Great execution. Looks like an OEM part.

Great job using the belt sander and scotchbrite wheel with the hand drill! Looking forward to you next series of videos.

Nice job , polishing can be a royal pita if your looking for mirror finish . Even then its bound to get a big hit or gouge . I do like the non rotating handles for vises over spinners . I have one I made using an old stripped trailer ball for the handle it works well on my vise. Easy to grab n use. Tough to machine but its a honking handle.

Beautiful work!

Another fantastic video. Thanks for sharing Mark!

That came out awesome! Nice work!

Nice one Mark. Your attention to detail is unsurpassed. I made a speed handle for my vise a few years ago and it's awesome. I can't even remember where the factory handle is any more. Every vise should come with one from the factory. They would probably be cheaper to manufacture than the factory one as well.

The handle looks very nice. Very well done. I was hoping you would do the final shaping with a graver, really old school. Dave.

Interesting way of going about this

Matty has a great channel and is a great guy. I always love the creativity on his channel. Thanks Mark

Loved it Mark great video.

While it isn't or wasn't important in your case, when taking photos for part recreation and to reduce parallax error, use a camera with a zoom lens or telephoto and stand back away from the part as far as you can and zoom in on it. This will remove a lot of the parallax or fish eye you get from a lot of photos. Use this all the time in 3d Art for fine accuracy and guessing when reproducing anything. Nice job as always Presso

Great tool, great job, thanks

Nice shirt Mark. I live 6 hours from Banff

Very nice handle Mark.

Awesome work as usual! I remember watching an episode of Build Something Cool where one of Dale's guest turned a similar handle on a lathe using a tool rest and a chisel.

good job I like it

nice work

Great videos thanks for sharing

Great video! I have a very similar vise and will make something similar. No casting, though. And if you think it's difficult to open a non-screwtop beer bottle (in a workshop!), then you hardly deserve it! The beer, that is... ;-)

As always from you, a great preso P.reso :)

Hello Mark, The approach was very good, turning the steps and then using the files... Thanks for showing us how to do it... Take care. Paul,,

G'day Mark very nice job there is a lot in it I'm thinking about doing the handles on my lathe and mill and I sure that it will be a marathon. Thanks for you help regards John Tasmania Australia 🇦🇺

I did my homework! Honest 🤠

Interesting on how you went about turning the handle. Basically you stepped roughed the contours similar to a CNC lathe would the hand shaped the finish. However I actually agree with your comment the spinning handle is better, and on my personal handle I used that rotating style. Great job

Oh boy, another cool clock previewed

a big thank you for the info on importing the pic to the cad. you just saved me days of ??? take care stay safe . tone uk.

Superb job👍👌

Excellent demonstration Mark, It takes a good deal of discipline to follow out the plan, but how else do you guarantee success. Nice polishing job, and I love the Banff tee shirt! Cheers!

Mark, see you rockin an Alberta Banff shirt looking good.

Good Show Mate...as per normal. You know an old broom handle would have done almost as well. You just wanted to make it pretty. Don't blame you. Pretty stuff just works better. That was fun!

I watched a YT video some time ago where someone made a handle starting with turning step rings but finished using a method borrowed from wood turning. A boring bar was used as the support for HSS cutter set in a long wooden handle for leverage. I was quite surprised but this technique worked quite well with shallow cuts on low speed. In the end the handle only needed a little polishing. It it also looked much safer than filing in a spinning chuck and less messy than sanding. The handle was made from steel, on metal lathe.

Mark, I sometimes wish that I could study with you. My only problem is that I live in Delaware, USA. Enjoyed this project.Thanks.

Great...

That is one mean handle Mr Presling

Hi Mark! Thanks for all your on these videos! If I remember correctly you have a mill that has been CNC'd. Look up "Using a CNC mill as a lathe". Makes the curves even easier.

For your parting blades try grinding them with a lot less nose relief, I like 3 degrees, slow speed, maybe 25-50 surface feet (8-15M) per minute, plenty of oil and a pretty aggressive feed

Mark- don’t know if you will see this, but if you slit your belts to a narrow width, like 1/2”-3/8”-1/4” you can do the inside of your work without issue. For your mental toolbox, or the next time you encounter similar jobs.

You could bore a hole in the crank and fit a press in bearing to pass the threads thru locking it in with a nut.

Thank you Mark! Subd

Looks great, Mark 😀! I need to make a better handle for my lathe, the aluminium turns my fingers all grey 🤣. Just started dabbling with fusion 360, maybe I'll give your method a shot 😁 (lots of curviness involved 😊). Gonna love that steampunk clock, can't wait 🤩. Pretty much my favorite theme. Cheers mate! Great video!

I laughed my fool head off at 26:43 "EEEEHHHHHHHHHH!!!" Well done and a very interesting process, I'm going to have to do this my own self.

When filing, left hand on the handle, right hand on the tip. The spinning jaws of the chuck are just waiting to rip your carpal tunnel open. Not a safety nazi, I'm just left handed and this is one of the few times "my way" is definitely the right (correct) way LOL. I've also found slowing the spindle when filing works better. At high speeds, the chips clog up faster than you clear them and it scratches the finish, especially on aluminum. I made a tri spoke speed handle for my vise with golf ball handles.

Another project you could make, if you run out of things to make, is a mini lathe for the Bridgeport so you can use a ball nose cutter for making handles such as this one. If you dip your whole hand in motor oil before using the handle your hand will slip very nicely around the handle without sticking, kidding of course....

I am looking forward to the "lixie/nixie' video series!

Need to visit Banff and Eden once this Covid crap has subsided. Thanks for sharing your skills and making us laugh.

If you want to just copy a handle at 1 to 1 scale, just stick the handle in the tail stock and stick mag base on the cross slide with an indicator running on the handle, you can then use the indicator to tell you to dial in or out to trace the handle.. you can also make a flat patern and weld it to a piece of round so it can be held in the tailstock.. tom Lipton showed this trick in one of his videos, it's an easier way than doing it in steps and it's much harder to screw up

👍👌

the sockets are steel, just slap a decent magnet on the bottom of the vice and let it stick to them (if you wanted to)

The generic term for Scotch-Brite wheels is "Non-woven wheel" that's what the sellers call them at least.

G’day Mark, nice work mate. I had a chuckle with the opening scenes. Oh, it was great to see Matty feature and make the sticker board. Hey, who’s that DCT bloke? 🤣

Enjoyable and instructional as always. And a nice handle to compliment the whole project. The whole thing is quite refined. The ducks were interesting, too. Shape and size wise they are no different then the ones we have in the Eastern US. Only the colors and markings differ. Why would that be?

I wish you could see my wild handles that I just made for my vise spinny tightening down thing!!

Absolutely loving your videos Mark, been watching all week. I know this is a tough question since you don’t have your eBay shopping history, but I’m in the market for a genuine 3M wheel - specifically for the purposes of achieving Satin finishes on my Brass, Aluminium & Stainless projects. The 3M Scotch-brite is available in the MU-WL Silicone Carbide (Grey Colour) or the MF-WL Aluminium Oxide (Maroon Colour) - and I have no idea which one to pick. Do you remember what colour your wheel was when you purchased it new? Maybe they’re both the same & the Satin finish simply depends on how long you buff the items for... I’m not sure, but any feedback would be greatly appreciated. Thanks kindly Mark & keep up the great work. Nickolas

Nice result Presso 👍 Reminded me of the way my dad made reamers for boring recorders ( and they sure weren't boring the way he played 😁) Was wondering how close the inside curve was to the diameter of the idler wheel on your belt grinder, might have been an easier way to smooth/finish. Oh, you can also get scotchbrite belts to suit your belt grinder. 🍺

Nice. Could you laser your logo into the powder coat and fill it with a contrasting colour? Or is it not thick enough?

Question. Could you take an appropriately sized salad bowl, cut a hole in the bottom, then mount it over the chuck? Or use a round plate with a hole in it mounted on a stand sitting in the chip tray.

I think if you ripped your sanding belt to a narrow strip it may have helped do that inside radius

@30:00 toilet roll paper holder with a clock, radio and gauge? Genius! I guess there's an ESP chip hidden there that can order more if the gauge is low.

Hi Mark, would you be able to public the work sheet with all the measurements to make this handle?

Mark could you possibly provide the name of the software you used to draw the print. A link would also be lovely if you have it.

You made me thirsty and I don’t even drink anymore

That was a relatively bugger-free video!

Blackwoods have the 3M buffing wheels a little more dollars than getting them from USA

Loverly chatter at 10:25

It’s counter intuitive but try a more aggressive feed rate to get rid of chatter. You should be able to plow through leaded steel🤨

Hi Mark, not trying to be a smart A$$, but in case your interested; Abom79 use to do what I'll call Machine Shop visits. You would get to see how different people setup their shop's etc., get some tip's. On one visit that I'll always will remember, was with a older gentleman, who use to make the very handle(s) your talking about. In trying to keep it to 30 words or less, he did so, EXACTLY AS YOU WOULD ON A WOOD LATHE, but did it on a metal lathe. He had a custom tool post rest (very similar to a wood lathe, just a lot smaller,) also like the tools (length) used on wood lathes, he just adapted a metal cutter (via welding / brazing) to the handle of say a bigger / longer screw driver / pry bar. All done via FREE-HAND, and a caliper used to copy from an original part, no numbers involved, think go-no-go gauge, pre dial-caliper. If I remember correctly, under 10 - 15 minutes. I gonna see if I can't find that video. Well here's the guy I'm talking about, but in this video he's using what I call modern measuring equipment. Randall Pettus --- does tear shaped metal lathe handle(s) by hand. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-BDtrDv6uZTs.html Turning Metal by Hand Aug 23, 2016 Dale Derry (from Metal Tips and Tricks) Part of the trick, is to work from the TOP, not the side / middle. See @ 10:15 of the video. Couldn't find Abom79 & Randall Pettus. If I remember correctly, with Abom, Randall really did it more old school.

No wrist watch while working on lathes.

You think a sixer of craft brew from Wisconsin would make it halfway round the globe to you with at least one intact? If I don't have to donate a kidney in shipping, I want to find out.

Wood ducks? They look more like meat ducks 😜

Mark -- I sent you an e-mail, you never responded . Check your junk box .