From swimmingpoolste... this video looks at a pool with a pump that needs to be replaced due to pressure side leaks as well as a DIY Hayward salt system installation that is going to ruin the pool heater
Hello steve, my setup prevents me from installing the salt chlorinator after the heater. I can install it before the heater about 14 feet away and at a lower level than the heater. Do you think that distance and setup can prevent damage?
A family member has a salt water pool. Heater failed in 1 year. Full of rust. Now pool company saying salt water can ruin pool heaters? Make this make sense? In one year? I wish I could send you a video of their setup.
you should have waaaaay more views than -every other pool channel- on youtube. I've watched them all by now, and not a single one of them come close to the rate of useful information delivered per minute found in your videos. they might have fancier graphics (I{ don't care) or funny comedic intros (I don't have the time) or creative new ways to remind me where the subscribe button is and that I should share and I should like (please, kill me now), but they have basically been a complete waste of my time. Your videos, on the other hand, are internet gems of conciseness. Thank you. I can't believe it took me six years to find this channel.
A big part of the problem is when you add new components to older systems there's rarely, if ever enough space to do it elegantly. I've been doing pools for over 35 years and have seen so many wrong things it's unreal... but one thing that a lot of people aren't talking about is just in general all pool gear isn't made to last. I've seen pools with dangerously low pH and heaters installed in the 60's last for 30 years or more, unreal right? When I started the business pump motors lasted 20 years easily and you could even rebuild them and install new bearings, then in the late 80's maybe early 90's we started seeing pumps that lasted 10 years, fast forward into the 2000's and today and DE filter grids are shot in 3-5 years, pump bearings are screaming after a couple of years, even o-ring materials are of a lesser quality and leak within 2 years. No matter how well you install the equipment it's designed to fail... I always make sure there's plenty of air circulation around pump motors and they're well above the moist ground, I've even tried taking them inside over the winter... still they fail but many of the old ones were BURIED in mulch and drenched in moisture sometimes lasted for 20+ years. Liners are also the same, we buy the best we're aware of but 12 years is now a good life, back in the day the old aqua ones which were made by Union Carbide lasted 35 years or more. And on top of this the fact that he support gear is always needed to be replaced means more ridiculous plumbing and fittings unless you're doing to redo the entire system plumbing every time you work on it. I often tell customers to keep older gear as long as it's functioning because it'll likely outlast anything made today. Sad but true :(
Usually you do not need to put a check valve between a filter and a salt cell. I should warn you by saying that in my area DE is exceedingly rare, like less than 1 in 1000 systems here have DE filters, so there might be something I don't know here. Cartridge and sand filters do not expressly need the protection from the generated chlorine in the same way that lets say a gas heater does since the internals of filters are mostly plastics, resins and fiberglass as opposed to various metals. For the extra $ I like to install a corrosion resistant check valve ANY time I see salt water. I have seen more failed heaters than you can imagine and I still fight with pool owners, dealers and manufacturers regularly about the need for check valves to protect heaters. I do not think the same concern exists for filters but for $50 just put a check valve in to be safe.
Time for a new pool guy. The bonding is only on the pump, no check valve, no sacrificial diode, no heater water diverter to save heater and the 7 year old heater is rusting. Thanks for the insight, Steve!
Disagree that variable speed pumps are some sort of magical requirement. Are they nice? Sure. But at the end of the day, they don't run the pool any better. This pump could be easily rebuilt with new bearings for just a few dollars. What this system needs more than anything is to be replumbed. All that flexible PVC is a nightmare in the making.
@@TheNine6 Because it degrades over time. And the clamps need to be inspected and retightened frequently. It's just completely unnecessary. Whoever plumbed that pool was just LAZY.
@@chuckschillingvideos flex is better for water flow. Some brands do degrade in the sun. My preferred brand (TigerFlex) holds up well. Installed miles of this stuff over 20 years and have not had a issue. Lucky me I guess.
Yes regular chlorine will cause less galvanic corrosion in the pool, including the heater, so chlorine would be a better option if you are concerned with longevity. That being said, you can use salt water with a heater, you just to be sure to install the cell correctly, install a check valve to protect the heater, be sure all of your equipment gets bonded, and install a sacrificial anode in your system.
yes, use the sacrificial zinc anode if using salt. might want to use it either way if you are using a heating element. standard practice in electric water heaters, is my understanding.
Not the bearings in the pump dumb dumb the bearings and motor that are bad if you’re supposed to be doing this to train people make sure you say the terms right the pumps the wedding and motors the dry and the wind doesn’t make a noise
