Thanks, I appreciate that you put the task into simple terms and particularly that you identified each pin # for the relays to be crystal clear where everything goes.
people spend too much time saying "oh that's easy" but cant explain it. It's not common sense, but once you get how it works, it's much easier to understand.
Thank you for sharing this. I'm rebuilding a car from the ground up and the electrical system will be updated completely by me and your walk through instilled confidence in me that I too can DIY. Thanks again.
@@Sgt.Slides I have wired up a few panels and this was a good video on how to do it. I have also used another block to tie all the grounds together then had a main ground wired to it. It ties the grounds all together neatly and also allows me a place to add any other ground wires in the future.
The extra wire is normally to an output that provides power when the relay is not operated. Personally I would pop the connector for these out of the relay mounting socket (to minimise the chance of a short if the wires rub on something)
Trolling some of your older vids. Thanks for making sense of everything. Swapped relays out just never knew how they were wired. Can't wait to see it all wired n fiered.
I made mine up and idk if I’m over complicating it in my head or what but I’m confused lol i have pretty much the same set up you do. I’m confused on how to wire a switch for my fuel pump into this. I send a wire from the power side to the switch? And then the other power strip thing goes to the fuel pump?
no, the switch wire goes to the switch and then to ground, that's what all the terminals on my left side are. On the right side of my board are all the matching power outputs. so if I was wiring in a fuel pump, I would run the fuel pump wire to #10 on my right side, and on my left side I would run a wire into one side of a switch, and the other side of the switch would go to the chassis (ground) If this isn't clear to you, hit me up on @premiumfuelmag on IG, or on our facebook page and I can take a look at what you have. facebook.com/PremiumFuel/
The white wires 87a are "normally closed" meaning that they get the voltage from the red wire wire all the time. When the trigger wire is hit with voltage from the switch, they turn OFF and the other 87 gets the voltage from red - "normally open". So the whites will have voltage at all times, so make sure they are insulated or cut off so they cannot short to anything.
great video and links to parts. Id make a suggestion and use some carbon fiber for your mount. it looks even cleaner and gives everything a nice touch.
Thanks for this, mine is a little different but I believe you just helped me get more relays onto my board. I was restricted to 5 relays because of the room I had in my car but this will help solve some of those issues.
Looks great! Would be better if you used an aluminum plate for vehicle use. Would require drilling and tapping . This could have resolved the grounding dilema.
Can you make a video on how to wire any appliance like, water pump, cd player, tv or any electric home appliances to a car alternator? If a car alternator produce 100 amp at 1200 rmp, then what will happen. The appliances will burn-out? What can we do in this case? Even the battery which is connected with the alternator can be burnt out by the over load of current from alternator. Please explain all these. Thanks in advance.
I took my fuse/relay block out from under the hood of one of my 02 Cavalier parts car it has both mini and maxi fuses a relay strip right next to it also a cover I just re did the wiring running the fuse to whatever one I wanted to use
Sweet vid thanks!,.. still learning on it. . For the switch connection block, yellow wires, my toggle switch has 2 prongs -(thinking red wires for both power in/power out and flip switch to complete circuit, right?) If I connect 1 prong to the yellow wired block, where do I connect the other prong to? Connecting a lightbar, maybe more later. If just for 1 lightbar- would it be red wire from battery to fuse to switch to lightbar? Does it matter if the switch is before or after the fuse?
no, n this configuration, the yellow side needs to run to ground, but with a switch in the middle. When you throw the switch, it creates a ground, and sends power thru the relay to the blue side. You need to connect your light bar to the blue side. the metal post on the fuse box is the source of power, that needs to connect straight to the battery.
Dont know where you are in the process of this build, but that same company makes a slighty larger fuse block which allows you to wire the relay grounds to the block and only have one ground going to the chasis.
I agree with Liquid snake. Electrical is not rocket science. Just need to made sure you label things, the wires are neat, lights should be on a 30amp fuse, and try to put the panel in a cool and accessible place. Oh, and a great ground is essential!!!!!!
For all the black grounds where would they go? All into one wire and to the vehicle chassis? All into one wire and back to the battery? The accessories all have their own negative wire so where would they go? Seems like there’s double ground going on with the relays.
no need for it to go all the way to the battery. anything that's ground just needs to go to a good solid piece of chassis. mine all combined to one 4 gauge wire to e grounded
@@Sgt.Slides I just bought everything an a decent switch panel with a power switch push button start an 3 accessories switches on it. Just wanted to see your switch setup wiring so I had a reference for it. Thank you
The easiest, cheapest, and most painless mods to me are electrical. Not to mention the most effective. (Cooling fan, LEDs...) Like you realized, wiring harneses are only individual circuits and not a homogeneous spaghetti monster. If I got another Fox I'd throw in an obd2 engine harness from a 4.6 Mustang. (5.0 Explorer harness as a second choice) I'd also get rid of that rats nest on the driver's side strut tower and put a real fuse box there.
Premium Fuel Mag Opens up a world of tunability and Bluetooth apps, built in fan controller, no distributor, nice fuse box, looks, bragging.... Then the PATS would confuse a theif for a good minute. Then it would probably turn into "rewiring the whole car project", ... and that's cars for you.
By doing this set up does all the accessories you sure to the fuse relay block have 100% power all the time? Since the power cable goes to the top of the fuse dist block
What gauge wire are the plugs coming of the relays. For a race car I crimp then srink tube the ring terminals take the plastic of first the tubing act's like a strain relief I use Pico parts for race terminal relay plugs I get my srink tube from fastnal adhesive lined is the best you have the right idea
Are you switching pin 85 of each relay? That would mean you need to send constant power to pin 86, and you switchs in the car would turn the ground ( pin 85 ) of the relay off or on. You need to watch the polarity of pins 86 and 85 because some relays have a suppressor diode across the coil.
There were a couple of mistakes stated in this video, although the board was set up correctly, the application I mentioned was wrong. As a result, this board was not compatible the way I intended with the switch panel I ended up using, plus, I didnit need 10 relays, the ECU came with a relay on the harness, the fan relay needed to be close to the fans to keep the wires short and efficient, the only extra relay I ended up installing was for the fuel pump. It was a fun piece to build, but i'm very disappointed I didn't get to use it.
The terminals are rated for 15amps but relays give out 30-40amps and some radiator fans use 15-28 amps so the terminals would not be able to handle that. another thing to look at is how many amps the fuse block give total, and combined draw of the relays is not more than that.
One thing I am wondering and I hope you can answer. I have thought about these relay blocks for a while. I know that it is justified to have fuses running from your power source to your device in order to protect it, is there a requirement for there to be a fuse between the switch and the power source?
Thanks for the video! If I were to wire a rocker style switch as a master switch, essentially between battery and the fuse box, would I need to add another relay between the battery and the switch or can the switch handle being between the battery and fuse box?
Tim Hwang I’d do a relay to be safe. You don’t want a full 12v running threw a switch in the cab. Better be safe then sorry just get a 50a relay and a fuse. Fuse the switch also.
I also have a 12V Guy switch panel with built in fuse block which I used on non relay accessories. Is it really necessary to be running 2 fuse blocks when using a relay as I don't recall manufactures having two fuses per each accessory? Maybe the fuse between the switch and the relay isn't necessary idk. Im not an expert just seems a bit redundant to have 2 fuses for an accessory.
I got it because it looked cool and seemed efficient, at the end of the day, it kind of messed up my wiring plan and ues, it is redundant, but it looks super cool and it's working lol
Depending on the function and amp draw, you don't want all those grounds running together. Anything sensor related should be ground to the engine block or at least a thick piece of metal. Grounding all of those to a chassis point will likely not work for things like fans. But also, i had issues where the wires to a fan would melt because the distance from the relay to the fan was so long. Doesn't look like the gauge thickness on your wires are enough to handle the amp draw of a fan though. So all of this likely isn't an issue for you.
Thanks for the tips. I ended up consolidating the grounds, but i'll go back and re do them and add them to a heavy 4 gauge wire. On my current set up, my fan is grounded to the frame, no issues, I did consider that the distance from the fan to the relay might be too far though, I will probably run a 4 gauge wire to that as well. I appreciate your input.
I agree with Matt. Ground is only to make the connection for the relay to activate when +12v signal is sent to the yellow wire(u said ground in the vid, but it's actually +12v that u need to send to yellow) What ever device is being activated needs to have direct ground that will handle the amp draw, Yoshi. In this setup, if your powering a high amp draw device, you'll need to replace the red wire and blue wire with the correct guage wire. Also, the white wire van be removed using a pick of some sort.
Short answer is no, however, it's not something you want to do often, Never use a power washer, and be careful not to spray water directly into your intake, alternator, fuses, or ECU
Do you have to run power directly from under the hood, or can you use a distribution block to p/u power? And can i ground to a terminal block or do i need to run each ground independently to the chassis somewhere?
you can connect all the grounds together and run them to a single wire, just make sure it's a nice beefy wire and find a strong place to ground it. You really don't want that on a weak ground, and power to the board needs to run directly from the battery into the fuse block.... so yes, in your case, directly under the hood.
Thank you sooo much “Premium Fuel Mag” for this video!!! I’ve watched countless video’s concerning this topic, and most of them either complicate things or jump past stuff like we already know what their doing?! (Urg 😡) Anyway I have a question for you, how many accessories can I wire to the ignition switch of a Side by side (UTV)? Thanks in advance . . .
Can I do this to get rid of a factory fuse box ? I own a eclipse and the factory fuse box and wires are all jacked up. Could I make one of these to replace my fuse box and use the factory wire harness with the panel ?
You could, but that's much easier said than done, and the fact that you're on here asking that makes me assume that you aren't quite prepared yet for the work that would involve. I don't mean to sound condescending, unfortunately that's how this reads... That was actually my goal when I created this panel, however, it was much more involved than expected, and I ended up not using it. If you do attempt to take it on, good luck to you, but if you're replacing a trashed fuse box. i'd recommend cutting one out from the junk yard and splicing it back into your car.
Not harm caused. I understand what you’re saying. I never have actually like made a panel like this before. I have done all kinds of wiring in cars before. Another reason why I was asking about this is bc I have like really no choice but to move my fuse box to a new location. As right now previous owners zip tied it to the computer.... so the computer and fuse box just rattle around all the time cause their not bolted to anything. I also found a bunch of good looking fuse boxes on eBay for my car but idk where I would put it. Lol
yeah, normally a relay panel like this would only use 4 relays, it THINK they normally run lights, ecu, fuel pump, and ignition. I thought I would take it a step further and reu every dang thing on it's own relay.... but like I said, I got way ahead of myself.
I just ordered everything here to run my lights an my dash lights an maybe fuel pump. How do I wire it up to turn on with the key. I'm pretty sure I can figure it out but why not ask first lol
87a (normally closed) will get power when the switch is OFF (Say for a switch light) See "How a 5 Pin Relay Works" here on youtube. Great video! thanks for posting.
yes, I figured it out, even though I built the thing from scratch, I still don't know exactly how it works! Sad part is I wont even get to use it lol, I ended up not needing it.
I would add a bus bar for the ground wire (Black). With the bus bar, you would run all the ground wires to that bar then run one Ground wire from the bus bar to the chassis.
@@MrMoronification A ground can never be big enough. Go with the largest and most practical sized wire for grounding components, and always oversize from what you actually need.
Hey man I’m doing this same set up I was wondering what kind of material did you mount this on to I bought a sheet of pvc I was wondering what yours was?
if you were running a head light relay 87a would be your low beam until you power the switch 87a would turn off and switch over to 87 to run your high beam light.
thx for the tip, I wonder why they make them clip together, or if anyone has had those issues before. Trying to troubleshoot that problem would be damn near impossible.
Depends on the amperage you are putting through them. If it gets hot enough to melt the relay, you'll melt the wire insulation first and, you probably have bigger problems
no, the white wire is actually an alternate power output. Leave it loose and it goes to nothing, if you connect it up, the relay will switch from one output to the other.
You could use the 87a to let you know the relay for that accessory is OFF since this is the normally closed loop (nc). Say you wire up a fan, when your fan toggle is switched to the OFF position (yellow), your 87a (white) will receive the current, possibly powering a small LED indicating the fan is NOT on. When he switches his toggle ON (yellow), 87a (white) will no longer receive any current and 87 (blue) will send power to the fan. Hope this helps.
Hello sir, I wish you a beautiful day and lasting success sir, I am a new friend and I hope that my friendship will accept my respected sir. My question is there are maps of wiring the lights of the car lights and the top with all the things of the car sir, I am grateful and thank you
You said the other side or the switch is ground that's wrong. The blacks ground for the relay coil. You need a positive from a switch to energize the coil.
Holy Fire Hazard Batman Nothing soldered or shrink wrapped. Taking a big risk in thinking all of those crimp connectors are going to stay together under stress, I'll be surprised if that car runs properly with all those wires crossing and touching each other.. You should run most of the wires underneath the board for a cleaner and safer install.
Yes crimp connections are stronger than solder. Soldering in automotive applications is actually a bad thing. The point where the solder ends has been weaken by the heat, is the point where all of the stress is focused and is the point where the wire will actually break. Soldering does not allow any flexing or vibrating movement, there by creating stress points for breaks. Crimp connections allow some movement and distributing stresses throughout the wire making it last ten times as long.
they cost the same, and i don't have to use the extra wire, so i pretty much just go for whatever the best deal is, and the extra wire is there if i ever needed it.
I have no idea how to set up ignition wiring, I'm going to need help with that..... ok, I kind of get what you are saying, I was about to clip all the white wires off lol. I'm still going to need help on the ignition though.
I thought about making another board for key on power, but between the new harness and the factory harness and fuses, I shouldn't need to. I wish it could all be DIY, but as long as things are cleaned up and I can work on it, I'll be happy.
hey Phi: here Artist ...what you need to do to make it look good is ether ask an artist.... or use the other side of your brain ..... since you help me i help you..... where it mounts is where you go to design...l then forget wire .....in out,,,, forget all that ......and start moving shapes in the space ......find the perfect shapes in the space........{ just peeking up } ummm ok .....from a design perspective never make x or cross and lets not use more then one primary ,,,,, try to find the movement you feel in 2 0r 3colors two primary one secondary and one left field ...the color wheel will help you ... the wire can go any where like a circuit board find your shapes on the space then the wire is you statement color code everything the same in its line so yellow wire yellow everything that touches it ....you will have to paint stuff that's why shit looks cool when we do it... we make it happen... like magic this will now be the best looking block ever the wire will travel where they have to no crossing evenly spaced same radius in turns i can see the whole thing completed and everything i just said may sound stupid to you but that's art................ PhiRatio5 ..... Instagram ...................... project build 88 jeep Cherokee base
nice yea im doing a 88 Cherokee base xj engine bay and internal workings brought to the for front open pcu with monitor to see what its doing live and of course open relay inside also oil filter inside fresh air inside im also going to make a type of paint that's a cross between pavement and tires toughest finish ever digital gauges matrix rain dash all metal interior ..you know no stinger that shit played out befor it started no giant front bumper no big ass 36 inch spare tire knee deep in wire all weekend
DO NOT FOLLOW THESE INSTRUSTIONS. Yellow is not switch wire, its white. Blue is not power out, its power in. Blue - power in Yellow - power out White - switch Black - ground Red wire is not needed in this application. I believe its a normally closed circuit (meaning its a normally live circuit and triggering the relay will disconnect power, which is opposite to how everything car related works.)
looks nice but you have no idea wtf you are doing. this IS NOT race car shit. we use all aircraft grade wire, plugs,connectors and NO SOLDER, certainly no aluminum crimp connectors.
