me too .. and in PLA+ so not light but I had a Steven's Aeromodel RV-4 (two of them) and this is the logical first step to my first 3d printed plane :D
I use layers of masking tape to properly gap control surfaces. Just wrap a couple pieces of tape around the back of the wing near the hinge in 2 spots then all you have to do is slide the elevator or aileron up to the tape. Once the CA is dry pull the tape out.
Thank you for showing us building and flying, I got interested of the real plane and saw that they attached a free 3D print model, then I start searching for more info and I found your video. Also, don’t forget to put a treat anywhere in the box for your furry friend every time you open the box, remember if you are excited to open a box how much more with your friend, I can see he/she is very attentive while opening the box so please give him/her a treat 😀👍
you have a natural, calm, instructive nature about you. Very interesting and absorbing to watch your craft, hobby and interests in 3D printing, model making and RC plane flying.
Me and a few buddies were having problems printing wing panels with our Guider II’s. We were extremely frustrated and after using your settings they are perfect!!! Thank you!!
Did you use cura? I'm working on printing my first plane and got lw pla and everything but decided I want to try this one as my first. So I ordered more tough pla and need alittle help. Can't get a reply from Troy I'd say hes pretty busy.
@@dericklong6191 cura is a great slicer, it works good with this model, but it will likely work best if you import the g-code files instead of the .STL (and trying to get the settings right)
Hello, what kind of problems are you having? On my L2 wing, for example, it breaks some of the reinforcements on the wing wall.. I'll try again with the settings from Troy..
Troy, thanks for the free Shark download. The Shark is an evolution of the Millennium Master, and my Tower Hobbies model is one of my best flying planes! I was worried when that model went away, and I'm very glad to see this variation that will never go away!
i printed mine using the supplied gcodes and it printed great, it all went together great without any sanding or anything, come to print the landing gear using the gcodes and they might as well be for another plane, they print great but are miles away from fitting each other, the springs won't fit in the legs, the front leg won't fit into bracket it rotates in, the steering arm won't fit into the spring
Hey Troy, thanks for taking the time to show the build and the flying footage - I do enjoy watching your vids. Now onto the model itself - I personally have been designing and 3d printing airplanes for a while and my first impression was that from the outside the model is indeed looking very nice. Now from an internal perspective - not so much. I normally just go with a 2mm thick shell, which is made up to two 0.4mm walls (so 0.8mm total) and the remaining 1.2mm usually has 5-10% of infill. I find that this way the shell is quite strong (perhaps a bit of an overkill for PLA as it's quite strong naturally - I normally print with LW PLA). I think the internals (servo mounts, tubes, etc - particularly fuselage parts 2-3) are way overdone, but we all have our own style! :) At first, I didn't even look at the gcode files and went to slice the STLs myself. Of course I found that the models (particularly fuselage parts) had "errors", i.e certain geometries were shown as printed in mid air. Ticking "Keep Disconnected Faces" box in Cura somewhat helps the issue, but still, I was surprised that given the author's background, why would a 3d model be designed so poorly? But then the gcode.. See below. In the end, I thought to hell with it, went and printed one of the fuselage parts straight from the provided gcode and I was shocked, because I don't think I've ever had a print looking that crisp! Sorry, took so long to get to the punch line, but that is what surprised me the most, so clearly, I'm not as good with Cura as I thought I was! Will need to investigate what settings exactly they used to generate the gcodes! Thanks again! Hope to see more of your vids in the future.
This looks amazing, though I wonder if you could modify the canopy to allow for a RunCam Split 4 4K High Definition camera and module for some great aerial footage without adding to much weight or offsetting the centre of gravity to much.
Use black electrical tape around the tire. It last a good while and significantly reduces the rattle. I do this even on some of my large scale planes with normal rubber tires for reducing the traction grab on asphalt so it ground handles like it's on grass instead of snapping uncontrollably with rudder movement.
I'm new to 3d printing but learning fast. Love your posts. I printed and built the Shark. Maidened it yesterday. Was a little tail heavy so I landed to move the battery. The right wing broke loose (the landing was not that hard and on grass). The wing needs a spar. Also, the landing gear, while cool, are not strong enough. The nose gear was very difficult to complete as parts did not fit well and I had to spend a lot of time sanding and trimming to get them to fit. I thought the fuse was well designed and went together well. This is my fourth printed plane. All of them are just way too fragile. I sometimes wonder if the people that create these files are also rc flyers. I'll keep trying, lets hope these designs improve. Love your vids.
I'm in the same boat as you, haven't flown it but today testing it on ground, one of the main gear broke taking a curve, Trying to redesign it right now to make it stronger.
That’s brilliant, the Flash forge is out of my price range, I only have the old yellow one. Defiantly need to look at printing this plane, when I upgrade my printer. Great video. 👍🏻
Hey, another printer? I just bought Artillery sidewinder x1. Lol. Hope to see more builds with Swx1. Thank you for all you do for this hobby. It's been very helpful. Coffee is on the way.
pretty neat design and satisfying use of tools. at 1kg with that wing surface it's on the high wing loading side. feels like 3D printing it pushes the weight up quite much.
Another great build video plus parts list in the description. Very nice and thanks for doing all the hard work here. Is there any chance you can share the stl files for the wheels and tires? To be honest I'm old and lazy and don't want to have to learn how to use a CAD tool and how to design wheels/tires for this one project. Also can you point us to the stl files for the tpu hinges that you used in the build? Thanks again and keep up the excellent work.
Dude you deserve way more subscribers than you’ve got for the trouble you go through to create these beautiful videos. You are very thorough in your tutorials and most importantly you are one smart SOB ! Thank you for the video and thumbs up and new subscriber.
Hi Troy, 1st of all your Chanel is so good and very helpful. I am building 2 of the planes you have shown. I am using your thin wall settings on my Creality cr-10s pro v2. I also have a Guider IIs. I was hoping you could share how and what settings you used in Cura to set up the Guider IIs please. Big fan for Australia...
I've done a lot of 3D printed planes, and you don't really want the wheels and tires. The wheels are much harder to print and suck compared to going to the local hobby shop and buying already made wheels and tires that fit properly. Trust me.
Great video, long time scratch builder, wanted to try printing a plane, this is perfect, before buying different ones. Thanks for sharing with us, have subbed.....
Another question if you don't mind. I'm printing the fuse sections at the moment. I'm having trouble with fuse section 3. The long guide tubes for the control wires are not supported well and move when the print head passes over them causing the ID (opening or hole) of the tube to close up. By default the print is oriented with the big end down on the build surface. I'm in the process of printing it again with it flipped it 180 degrees so that the small end is down instead. I've also added supports to see if that helps. I was wondering if you had similar issues with section 3 if if so what did you do to address them?Edit: well inverting the fuse didn't work. I'm using cura 4.9.1 (latest). After slicing and using preview I can move the slider and see that the internal structures are not being rendered correctly, with some of the internal structure being printed in "mid-air" due to sections below not being printed at all. Under special modes I changed the "surface mode" from "normal" to "surface" and that seems to have fixed the problem when previewing it. TBH I don't have a clue what this setting does and am just taking shots in the dark here. I am printing it now to see if this change fixes the issue.Edit2: Well none of the changes I mentioned in the first edit worked and in fact introduced other problems as well. One thing that changed with the printing of section 3 was that I changed filament brands from hatchbox to overture. I've used both of these brands with no issues in the past but just in case I will try printing with some more hatchbox. If that test fails I will try slicing the section 3 fuse with an older version of cura just in case there is some kind of issue with the newest version of cura which is what I am using. I will come back and provide an update on the results. Edit3. Tried a re-print using hatchbox PLA and did get a better print than what was observed using overture. But the problem remains that the internal structure that supports the tube wire guides is not rendered correctly in the cura slicer resulting in unusable tube wire guides. I tried slicing with older versions of cura but that didn't fix the issue. At this point I am stuck and unable to proceed further. Just in case it helps my printer is a c reality CR6 SE although it's easy to see that the slicer and/or the STL (design) is the issue. I'm just wondering how Troy avoided this issue. Edit4 I modified the gcode that came with the download to work with my CR6 and the print is now underway and is looking good, will report on the finished product later. Looking at the gcode it was created under cura version 3.1 so downloaded that version and tried slicing with that, results were the same as with the current version of cura. Also noticed some z-seam settings in the cura settings folder for the fuse. I implemented those settings and sliced the stl resulting with a different location for the seam so I will try printing that file soon. Will report back on all the results once they are complete.Edit5 Success!! I was able to get a good print using the supplied g-code after modifying it to work better with my specific printer. After printing it I noticed that the z-seam was located in the middle of what is the lower part of the of the fuse section. When I sliced the stl i had the z-seam location set in a different location so i decided to slice the stl again but this time locating the z-seam in the same location as observed on the print from the supplied gcode which was Zseam x = 0.0 and Zseam y = 117.5 (this is the same as the "user defined" setting of "left" in the current version of Cura). So with that as the zseam setting I sliced the model and printed using that gcode and the print sort of worked but there is a structural piece towards the end of the print that does not print correctly. If you view the sliced model you can see gaps in the supports that causes the structural areas to fail printing. So bottom line the only way to get a good print is to use the supplied gcode. It is possible someone could go in and modify the stl file to make things work, for me that is way beyond my skill set atm. .
Hi Troy, I am wanting to print the TPU wheels you designed, are you able to assist with some of the setttings please? in particular the infill settings for the tyre and the infill for the tyre rim.
He did put in a larger, heavier battery but I still agree with you. I did buy a few models from this website (3DPrintLab) and they do offer a few biplanes and trainers so they would be slower and easier to fly for sure.
This video got me super excited about a plane that I cannot print. The STL files WILL NOT cleanly slice in Prusa, S3D or Cura. There are also no instructions on the print settings to use. Super disappointing!!!!
Bro there is also gcode files try that I've also tried to slice the model but it didn't work So I go for the gcode and it's perfectly okand my printer is ender 3 pro
Watched a few of you videos and all I can say is you Sir have great skills.. That paint work is sweet..do you have any videos of how its done id love to know. Nice work brother Subbed
I think I need more of your cura settings.... I printed my front canopy and its just an outer shell with no top or bottom or inner structures, really flimsy. so I added 10% infill and it has grid lines on the outside.... Please help
Noob question here for my first build. Longest push rods I could find online are too short to reach the servos internally. Is there a specific clamp/join that I should use to extend these or should I just purchase wire elsewhere and cut to size? Great vid btw, helped me alot with most of the build
Hi Troy, Did you print version 5? I have been trying to get part 2 of the body printed, but it kept on failing, then I noticed the internal supports does starts mid air, no matter what orientation? Is it only me? They even stop and continue mid air?
Don't solder those plugs unjoined like that! You're making them misalign by the heat flexing the inner pins as the case heats up. Plug in a spare male/female side first and solder them connected together. This keeps them from warping and makes them easy to remove or plug in after you're done. Also, get yourself some liquid solder flux. You'll never use that paste junk again, believe me.
Excellent videos, if you could help me in this field to know which is the printer that gives good results, which one would you recommend, the most suitable plastic filament and other details in such a way to do it yourself, thank you very much.
I've done a lot of 3D printed planes, and you don't really want the wheels and tires. The wheels are much harder to print and suck compared to going to the local hobby shop and buying already made wheels and tires that fit properly. Trust me.
Hi I’m a new subscriber, and newbie learning to print RC airplanes. My question is about control surfaces failure under high stress and G forces. In the early 1990’ I flew Advance & Expert Pattern flying. Our control surfaces were 99% secure to pushrods. Has anyone lost a printed model due to printed control horns?? Thanks newbie. 👍🏽
I just printed 2 of the Eclipson model A free planes in LW-PLA and gave one to my 80 something year old Dad for Father's day, he was really excited to build it and fly it! I have a bunch of ABS from my old (first) 3d printer I'd like to use for some planes, probably start with the shark/aero, any tips or suggestions to get it to print decently?
SO the stl's are free and that is awesome, so many places want to charge for such, how much would you say you had in the electronics, $30-50?, clearly parts on hand knock down the cost, but those did cost at some point so assuming no free parts, how much would your best guess be on parts cost, not counting battery, radio or filament
I see there's separate servos for ailerons. So you could employ flaperons? What wire do you go for with control rods? The last build I did the wire was a little too bendy..
Wow! great build =) No need for an additional carbon spar in the wing? And may I ask what software you're using to do your prop calculations? Thanks again for the amazing content. Paint job is fantastic too :-D
I wonder how it compares to Eclipson Model A which is also free (without landing gear). One difference is that Shark is a scaled version of a real aeroplane, Model A isn't. Another is probably the technology used for printing LW-PLA; not sure if Shark supports it (else it'll look very ugly).
Troy thanks for the video but what wheels and hubs did you use. I could not find them on the Shark.Areo site or in any of the updated files. thanks for the great video
This plane and the design is beautiful! I have tried to print 1 piece but it comes out very fragile, I try another and also !! I can't get how to make it come out, I already checked the calibration, the parameters I transcribe them to the properties, I upload the profiles but the piece is still fragile! too fragile !! I don't know what it could be ... my printer is an anet 8, hopefully you can help me !! regards !!
