DIY Soldering Station 

kalen bogart Noice

:)

this is alot of work for a diy soldering station. the same can be achieved with a simple 555, lm317, Transistor, or Op Amp circuit. Set the positive reference and use the thermistor as negative feedback. the 555 circuit would probably work best and dissipate low temperatures. usually soldering station irons work on 12-24v.

Or a click away on AliExpress, ready made station for $20 bucks including a heating element with a tip. ;) Nonetheless, I really enjoy these videos, quite educational.

@@BillAnt that's not even close to the quality you get with this.

I knew this comment would come.

But very very nice video !

StoneSet this leads to an infinite loop and soldering paradoxon D:

omg

Use someone else's...

Oswald Rayleigh epic xD

Yeah, but he kinda of didn't want to take the extra step of analysing the system and add more components that would help

Coding in a nutshell

@@geovani60624 no components needed, the code was bad

@@dimitrijekrstic7567 okay

Makes perfect sense... I was wondering too why on earth did he set it to initial value of 40?! Good catch though! :)

I am going to buy a cheap chinese T12 kit DIY. Wondering if there is possible to get the code from a STC microcontroller that Cheap T12 kit have?

@@svsv9 when you're getting that t12 station, stay away from the Quicko or ShineNow, as the KSGER one offers so much more features

Good Thinking Batman :-)

​@@joshm264​I love my KSGER t12 2.1S .. Make sure to open it up and go through everything. Some are not earth grounded. Its a great machine and the T12/T15 tips are my go to now.

I think I fried mine

I feel u, have no clue how to do Arduino

@David Daivdson i personally find kits overpriced and bad. except arduino kits. make a coil yourself, youre basically copying something and saying you did it yourself

@David Daivdson nevermind, i thought you were talking about those car type of kits. with everything included and the only thing you need to is assemble it and copy paste some code. and then people say they made it themselves.

@@janzugic6798 Electronics products are soooooooooooo overpriced in online shops.India has a lot of electronics in there but they are so cheap but really high quality.

I'm glad he discloses the problem with his project code. It is funny he finishes all the other details including 3d printed case and professional schematic. But the code bug gimps the iron to 50% power, and oh well. That's close enough. Hakko 936 performance for 5x the cost.

I'm just wondering why he doesn't fix the code.

He should've used a triac with zero-crossing detection and not use any interrupts in the code.

but MOC3041 has two more legs, think of the routing implications! ;) temperature problems are not solely due to typical arduino shit code - MAX6675 is for K type thermocouples, JBC one is not K - you need to wait couple sine half cycles between disabling heater and measuring thermocouple, otherwise you can get bogus readings - pid would be nice

Funny I used this library too, but it is not necessary. And the timing is ridiculously slow. I changed it to 5 microseconds without a hasle. I made my own function: } double read_temp(void){ //read max6675 int i; const int waittime = 5; uint16_t d = 0; digitalWrite(CS, LOW);delayMicroseconds(waittime); for (i=12; i>=0; i--) { digitalWrite(CLK, LOW);delayMicroseconds(waittime); if (digitalRead(SO)) { d |= (1 >= 2; }

Thanks mate :-)

YES, HE SAID IT ALL WRONG! :D

Sounds like a Full Bridge Rectumfryer... but I digress... it worx!! ;D

@@BillAnt per AvE though "recyumfryer" is the correct pronunciation! 🤣

Needs an echo!!!😆 (7:52 too!)

Someone poot electroboom in the captions

hahaha

Of course...

who doesn't?

hello 4 years later lol , was it worth building it? is it still working?

Yes... I'm headed there as the new station will pay for itself by not damaging components as easily and saving one RC aircraft. Not the tool to go cheap on. Thanks for posting.

I put it on my to do list.

GreatScott! Thanks!

Thanks mate :-)

I'm also Indian

Practical knowledge is always greater than theoretical knowledge that's why :)

Well, at least it's the first (and the one) project I UNDERSTAND. :) (I'm not a noob, but I'm veeery far from making own scheme) Scott presented his project in the most useful way. 5++

I kind of doubt it ;-)

şirket batmaz kolay kolay :D

Lol, they will probably gain money because of you, I have to say, your videos have never dropped quality, always great, keep it up!

Aww... Poor them, they charge *only $30* for a soldering iron tip... (I buy mine for 99 cents on eBay)

The tips are prob made of platinum.

Electroboom

If you get this then you win an award

I tried a couple of different "solutions" that I did not mention in the video. But I could not get rid of that problem.

Take it's a coding issue with arduino to sort the display out!

I was thinking about this same thing. (I'm a programmer & while I would love to do the kind of stuff you do, you lose me nearly every video. Still enjoy watching though. =) ) What about keeping track of the previous 3-5 readings, junking the 0 readings, updating the array with good readings, and averaging them out to feed to the display? Simple enough to code & should eliminate the problem Unless you're going to be soldering in extremely cold weather, that is... ;-)

I was thinking if it checked every 40 cycles, change it to every 20, then you effectively have the 40.

I actually made a similar project in college and I also got some really weird values in the transient response. It didn't get to zero but it definitely was close, for example sometimes it went from 150C to 90C in half a second, it might be the same problem you had! Unfortunately I never found a solution either. I guess it has something to do with interference due to the long cables and low sensor signal.

I did not recorded it. Sorry.

it's ok 😊😋😘

Junaid Films I would also like to see salvaging videos :)

Or, instead of showing 0 sometimes, save the temp to a variable and then display that variable. When a new temp is registered, save that to the variable and display that variable. By doing this you do not get a ‘0’ reading.

Because that makes too much sense lol

Exactly, I actually commented about using PWM earlier in an another thread, so much more elegant, simpler, and reliable.

@@BillAnt That's what I was thinking about.

@@TheTechnoGuy18 the power supply would be too big

You could but it doesnt really delve into how everything works.

TC TrainConstruct The method that Scott used is called "PID". It holds the temperature at a given value but without turning off or on the device, just by cutting off the sine wave that enters it. That method that you mention could also be done with a simple relay too but this one is more precise I guess?

Time to watercool my triac.

Hyper 212 Evos are for sissies, try a Zalman CNPS9900MAX!

HurlockVanguard because it cost €450 more

I think you misunderstood everything I said. Not once have I mentioned buying an actual station.

Osmu gang

Lcd means liquid crystal display. So LCD is correct.

Well they sometimes use "LCD" to identify a "display", though technically incorrect in this case of an OLED. Also let's keep in mind that English is not his first language. ;)

this is very helpful. thank you great sir!

I love these fuckboys who have nothing better to do than watch videos to catch meaningless snippets and act like "haha fool! You misspoke once in a 10 minute segment of advanced terminology and I am therefore superior!"

@@littlenemos1536 lmao he's just pointing out something he heard from the video and not acting cocky about it what the fuck Get the plug out of your ass

Thanks mate :-)

C Cole I got a fucking 3 dollar soldering iron from harbor freight and I haven't had a fucking issue it does the same fucking thing too

Yes, I tested it quite a while after filming the video. Works very well.

Can I somehow modify my own soldering iron to heat up faster? I have a 60 watts one by Würth but I want it to heat up faster. Is it possible?

Hii!

PrashMotion No you can't. You need an iron with a better heating element in it.

You're welcome

Humm... I hear you but look at the tech in it. People lose hundreds of dollars a year due to damaging what they are working on. The algorithm used in the JBC heating control system not only increases performance, it allows a reduction of the working temperature by 50ºC (122ºF) or more so lifting a pad or over heating a component dealing with a ground sucking up heat is far less likely. If the claims are true the JBC station can reach 662ºF in only 2 seconds compared to 8-10 sec or more. It's moments like that waiting as heat spreads that make an extra $400 spread out over years disappear and not seem like all that much. In many cases it will pay for itself as a nice RC model brought down due a heat damaged component is worth more than that in cash where the time lost is even more valuable. Lowering the temperature reduces the risk of damaging components big time. Even the JBC station will drop off 68ºF but other "good" stations drop up to 158ºF and that can break the bank. The operator is the most important factor of course but cannot outperform the tools they use and the worse you are at soldering the more you need it. And $35 bucks a tip is what it takes to be in the game. A tip that will last 5 times as long so when you do the math it's the initial cost that hurts but the pain goes away with time and I'm thinking it out. A week ago I'd agree with you;-) BTW I've been using a couple of 936 clones for years with cheap $1.00 tips that needed copper mesh added to get a tight fit and compared to the Radio Shack 30w handhelds I grew up with works miles better and is (seems) great up till it's thermal limit. But once put on and heated up the tip is not coming off so I have several stacked as I only paid 10 bucks a piece on sale (8 bucks off) at Hobby King for the entire 936 cloned station so I know what you mean... the 936 was a good machine to copy. But I just melted a handle wire and am tired of dealing with the stiff short wire used so decided to up grade and after researching it I went from where you are at to thinking $35 bucks is really fair price even for someone that does not solder for a living. The more I research the JBC station the less I want it and the more I need it.

T12 tips are much cheaper, and companies like KSGER have really nice stations for around $50, and uses a beautiful OLED display!

The proper name is Full Bridge Rectum-fryer. xD

@@BillAnt no

Since I had the transformer which is by far the most expensive component, I would say around 20-30$.

GreatScott! but the soldering iron alone was 50€ ?

+GreatScott!, what would stop you from using DC to power the soldering iron? In that case, the regulation would have to be done differently (e.g. PWM), but a cheap high-power chinese PSU could have been used instead of the transformer.

My calculations show around 180euro (without cost of enclosure and stand). It's around 100euros for handpiece and a one cartridge (with VAT). Then 30-40euros for transformer, low-power ICs (like MAX6675) and the display can be bought from ebay/aliexpress/whatever (still watch out for rip-offs). Concerning power devices (like triac), I recommend only buy from a reputable distributor.

a 19V laptop psu would be the perfect candidate, I've seen some claim that DC will burn out the heater because of electron migration but I've not seen any proof that that is true

I still like it

I like it to, but maybe you can make new.

I make led matrix 10x10 from your video and it works, thanks.

Badass Killer greatscott liked it

Could make a new one, or make a new video. I'd take the video any day ...........

timmy I pledge 1€ per month on patreon to see the videos a couple hours earlier.

good one phil...

hello to you :D

Hi 7SAEK. Shit name though. :-)

its phil dumbass

Electrical power engineering

MARHD Start now You don't have to study it be able to build these stuff!!! I've been working with electronics since i was a little kid and now finally I'm studying electronics engineering..

First RU-vidr to reply to me directly, I really appreciate that. I have been watching ur vids for a few years now, keep making great videos :D

Building them are not a big problem, that's why GreatScott is doing such a huge part of the work for us. The designing takes a lot of knowledge and organisational skill. I'm studying electronics at the moment and I'm FAR from being able to design more complex circuits by myself, I can't even see that in the horizon. Building things after finished and tested schematics though, that I can do already.

with that you can make a wave cutting power regulation. you cant how ever do any measuring of the temperature. you would just heat it up until it reaches equilibrium, not the temperature you want.

And costs €450 more...

Nope €300, and no man hours to build it. And it does have a nice autosleep function when you put the iron in the holder. Don't get me wrong though, I love to make my own stuff and I quite like this project because the JBC soldering pencils are lovely if you solder a lot.

I did my best and got a genuine one. Worth every penny, after using a clone Hakko for two years.

Oops, got my numbers mixed up, I thought it was 540 but it was 450, my mistake...

I have also builded me one (I started before he uploaded this video). It works great! It needs about 3 seconds to heat up. I can switch between 3 safed temperature, which I can also increase or decrease. The only "disadvantage" is, that the temperature can only increase or decrease in 5°steps (much easier to safe in the EEPROM). ^^

Capt_Kaplan you probably can. Bigclivedotcom not too long ago recomended a Hakko clone tht was cheap and with good performance, and that could actually use original Hakko tips and irons if needed. Ofc in the end it's still not the same performance as this.

This iron is really nice, small and easy/nice to handle. The Hakko clones aren't bad, but they are larger, use a ceramic element that takes longer to heat, and have a tendency to loosen at their threaded collar clamping points. The clone tips are junk, the coatings suck IMO. You'll go through 5 $.99 clones in the same amount of time as 1 $5 genuine Hakko tip.

I remember that, worldwide supplies of that clone station disappeared after that video. I ended up having to get a knock off of the clone. Works OK for my armature needs though.

Buy a TS100. It is only 50 dollars, and works the same as what he showed, but TS100 is much more compact

MrMaxyMahdia happens

Engarish

I see why I was escorted to basic algebra out of an advance in high school dang rocket science of soldering???

So you understood everything?

If a video is part 1 of 2 then I always mention it in the title.

GreatScott! heh! I really support your content so i really like these videos.

Uh oh you're fan girling.

You flipped out before you knew.... :-)

Alex Gamer_360 I thought I smelled bacon when I opened this thread.

Very good suggestion, I totally agree with the idea of using an op-amp. However, I doubt the if it is practical to use a cold joint compensator chip. The problem is that same copper wires are used to connect the handle to the station, effectively bring the “cold joint” inside the handle, right at where the soldering tip connectors located. Due to the heat conductance of the soldering tip, the cold joint might at 50 degrees C or higher during operation. In this case, install the LT1025A into the soldering station is not very helpful on accuracy. Alternatively, you can measure the soldering tip temperature using a external thermocouple, and calibrate the temperature calculating equation. How do you think?