DIY Super Speed Boat 

You are so underrated

"Might get a wet foot here" _puts entire shoe underwater_ Love the video man! Great project and can't wait to see more

Silver soldering for brass-to-brass. Get a beefy servo for high resistance in water. Gumboots.

I always liked these kind of boats. Built a large one myself years ago with multiple coaxial motors (two sets). In my opinion, you should not mess with your original design in order to get it to skim on the water. When you increase your throttle further, you will have a tendency for the rear to want to lift out from the water due to your motor being mounted horizontally (parallel to your hull). The motor will induce a substantial torque on your frame, something you will experience once you open up the throttle. Looking forward to see where this goes. ; )

James I appreciate your honesty and how genuine your videos are, I can see how nervous and excited you are each time you test something for the first time. I know exactly how you feel, when you rushed the last part of something complicated and when it starts going a little wrong you just want to go ahead and keep trying anyway! Crashed quite a few experimental RC planes that way. Anyway, thank you for the beautiful filming, editing, and workmanship. Love the use of the laser cutter. So much more professional-looking afterward than 3D printing although everything has limitations and uses. Looking forward to part 2!

You can add 2 rudders instead of 1....it will make it more manoeuvrable........and yeah, making the tail skid larger is a good idea...but don't make it too large...instead make the entire thing a little( JUST A LITTLE) nose heavy..... And if you want to use servos to steer the rudder, get powerful ones....cause at high speeds in water, small servos may not work.... And one more thing...I love your videos😄😄😄😄😄

Cool project! My thoughts.... - place the motors side by side to avoid efficiency losses - place motors as low as possible to have thrust line more in line with CoM (reduce pushing nose down) - place motors as rearward as possible (same reason as above, plus counterweights the nose being pushed down) - move sponsons forward so that less of the torque due to thrust goes into pushing them downward - use aero rudder and maybe even elevator to trim for desired pitch, if you get anywhere near 100mph these will become quite effective (not sure if this is against the rules though...) - maybe widen rear skid? - maybe rotate sponsons (pitch) a bit so that the angle between their bottom surface and the water is as shallow as possible at the target speed - the further rear-ward the in-water rudder can be placed, the more effective it will be for the same drag You mentioned in a comment that you wanted a pair of CW/CCW props, but I doubt it will matter. It doesn't even matter much on a plane which has no (relatively) solid water surface to steady itself against. Just use two-bladed props of the highest pitch you have available. Regarding weight distribution, I pondered this a bit and it seems to me that you probably want to have equal 'loading' (g/cm2) for each of the three support points. But I don't know for sure, and it would be near impossible to ensure you're getting this at the target speed anyway. That concludes todays know-it-all lecture :)

That was great, good choice on colour, the bluebirds speed records motivated so many people into engineering. I think it's a fine tribute to Donald!

Im a 40 year old Father of 3 my eldest son is 10 and im showing him your video so he too can learn something and be inspired . You have good manners and i respect the fact you show your failures as well as your success Keep up the good work

Project Air is the type of guy to always lose his rudder.

3:13 his other planes start to get excited about the new project.

i dont care how old these videos are they are all so good

Wow! That's really impressive! Your projects are always so cool!

Gosh, I remember back in 1968, building an Swamp/Air Boat powered by .049 gas engine. Dad was mad when I used it to flush Geese for the holiday table, because it worked so well, and he hadn't thought of it first. LOLS

Hey James, make sure your props are made for max thrust at cruise speed, not max static thrust. It looks like yours are a relatively low pitch; you might want to switch to higher pitch props. You could even put a helicopter tail rotor mechanism on there for variable pitch! :D Edit: Also do seriously consider differential thrust for "rudder". Not dragging a surface under the water should help tremendously at high speeds.

Tune into the next one for upgrades and speed! 😁 Mega thanks again to my Patreons for helping me with the funds to build this bad boi. www.patreon.com/jameswhomsley 🤟 Don't worry rocket and aircraft fans, I have a few smaller projects going on in the background I'm plan on scattering alongside this speed boat mini series. Thanks for watching!

You could drastically improve performance by shaping the main hull instead of leaving it as a semicircle. Love the videos. Can't wait to see the next update on it

Pretty fantastic work, James! 😃 Looking forward to the the improvements! 😃 Stay safe there! 🖖😊

Great project and great video ! One little thing, your trailing edges are round on the side floats and the round belly of your main fuselage will not help break the water tension, it will keep being sucked by the water by negative pressure just like a venturi effect. Take a look at some real (vs RC) seaplane floats like the Piper J3 or else, side edges and trailing edge are straight and sharp. Just my 2cts as I struggled with the same matter designing my own RC seaplane floats a few years ago. Keep it up, always loved your channel :)

Wow! I love ur technique. Simple sturdy

Was thinking to convert a rc car to a rc boat and was wondering how to make it really fast and then saw this video and now I know exactly how to do it! Thanks :)

Crazy big. Looks awesome!!

Wow this guy, he is amazing, for me it was a massive achievement that i got a drone to fly first time, and this guy is out here beating world records, recreateing dam busters, making cool stuff, awesome. 😀

I think I would add a rear aerofoil. Variable incidence, and possibly gyro stabilised by the on-board RC system. (You can use a cheap one of these from a small quad 'copter). As the speed builds, and the trim changes, you could 'fine-tune' the trim from the transmitter. Well done, and keep up the good work. Britain needs young experimental engineers like you...

Great project James! Considering the speed record edf would be a better choise as you get far more airspeed with them. Also you will probably have some issues with water splashing into the props and slowing them down

Nothing better than making things that go fast

A heavy duty servo for the rudder is needed & move the rudder to the centre behind the skeg. The skeg should be shaped to a symmetrical aero foil. This should eliminate drag without compromising efficiency. Great project! 👍

looks like a great start! lovely colour.

I always love rc type channels

This reminds me of the PBRs we use to take up the Mekong. I sold the parts for scrap after the war and used it to start my very own tomato empire

You deserve more subscribers. Your projects are awesome!

Keep up the good work. As usual a very interesting video and project :)

Great work and a great video, love to watch a detailed build, makes me want to get the tools out :-)

I really enjoyed your video and all the work you put into your boat. It takes lots of trials but you will get it. Hang in there.

Would you be able to go faster if you made most of the hull out of waterproof aircraft foamboard? Like the foamboard that Flite Test uses? It would make it much lighter, meaning more speed

if you are making a mark two of this,i suggest using the 'ground effect'.

Nice work. Paint finish / rattle can..........finish is improved by warming up the surface, hair drier rather hot air gun ( ie lower temperature ), and heating the paint can ( i used to do it by putting the can in a just boiled kettle , but heard that these cans can be quite explosive , even when dropped.......but heat does help move and mix the paint ) ends up giving a better finish .

Really great video and project. Yes very excited to see the changes and the next video!

Just in Case you dont already know after a year .When printing in vase Mode you can manipulate the Wall thickness by flow rate .Im printing some airplane parts with a 0.4mm nozzle in vase Mode at 200 percent flow which gives me 0.8mm Walls . This works very good and prints with 50mms . You need to Up the temp in My Case 235 for Pla . If you Print even hotter or slower or with a Higher nozzle you can get even thicker Walls.

Only those who have driven an air / fan boats know how it feels. Love the feeling they are so special to handle! I've built two, but not this big. I think you're right, this one has alot of potential!

Awesome video, can't wait for the next one!

*Takes boat out of the water* Ducks: "Yay finally!"

You should for an engineering company bro. Your contents are legit. You are underrated, you deserve more. God Bless you always

you are so good to make this video, i like it so much

love the pace of your Video. Really great to watch!

Looking forward to a working model. Truly incredible 👍🍻

Great job! love the blue bird. You will need a quarter scale steering servo for a hydroplane that size and put it inside the hull where it stays dry. use a waterproof boot and run a 440 rod to the rudder. Don’t ever swim after a boat without a lifejacket. I use a small rc retrieval boat with a fishing line attached to retrieve most of my dead boats. hardly ever need to use a rowboat. Keep up the good work brother!

For the rear skid, you might be able to achieve the same effect as the thrust angle vectoring you mentioned you had hoped to do with the props earlier. If the skid had a pivot point on the rear of the hull, you could control the pitch angle of the craft with a servo control.

Ooooooooo I have been waiting for this since I saw the first one. Legend!

Just subscribed. Can’t wait to see what’s next!

You have a great future ... all of your projects and presentations are excellent..

Hi nice video , if you put one propeller on the left side and the other on the right side you can eliminate the boat rudder and seal the bottom .

Excellent idea.

I've never seen ur vids but 1:00 minute in I already want more. Keep going strong

Charming. 13:03 Maybe a bigger skid in the back is not solution. Maybe the CG needs to be moved forward a tad to be balance the power torque (pitch) on the three planing surfaces when underway. And as airboats steer the exhaust to turn...do that. No rudder in the water required.

3:17 very clever to do that, great idea

bigger tail skid, dual rudder- one in water, one in the prop wash (maneuverability at low speeds), and try vase mode with a fat nozzle (say .8 at .2-.4mm layer height)

I was thinking about a similar device to drop fishing lines away from the shore. More like a torpedo type so it would work better at the seaside cutting waves through. But you gave me interesting ideas, thank you!

Make sure the edges where the boat comes up on plane sharp. Rounded edges create suction

Really looking forward to seeing what you do next! I agree with some others here - you'll want a stronger servo and maybe dual rudders. (I'd love to know how much control you'd have with the one that scarpered. My intuition is it might have you wanting for rudder authority.) Simpler than dual rudders, an L shaped one extending father backward would provide more authority without going terribly deep to snag on things.

Super nice video and pretty awesome build

I can’t wait to see the finished project keep on doing amazing zings like these 😉🇪🇸🇪🇸🔥🔥

Awesome Bro love your projects

excellent video, real and interesting, keep going

Very cool. Loads of potential..

Very very cool!!! Dan Jones built and amazing boat and I think you are well on your way to an equally amazing boat. I've sub'd to your channel because I anxious to see your progress and end results. Best of luck!!!

I've always wondered/wanted to have creators put up the cost of projects like this, for a couple reasons to show that you don't have to be rich to have fun, and my own pure curiosity of how much this stuff is to make.

Don't stop developing it. Great potential.

I believe you need a rear skid (flat bottom with a slight "ramp" angle ) sloping down towards the back. This way you'll get the aft out of the water @ speeds.

Very cool James 👍

I have often thought that Campbells Blue bird should have had a horizontal air stabiliser near the stern. Just as aircraft do. The problem was that it took off because it did not have aerodynamic stability like an aircraft. Although in your case the high thrust line serves to keep the nose down. What about if the thrust is reduced at high speed? Could the same happen here as happened to Campbell? Does not having all that weight and pressure from the floats ahead of the centre of gravity make it unstable if it leaves the water? Enough horizontal stabilisation behind the cg would make if fly like and arrow if it left the water instead of becoming unstable.

Maybe add a small shallow fixed position fan to the bottom of the left and right pontoon would greatly help your steering.

I noticed you sanding the planing surfaces. Leave the edges of the planing surfaces as sharp as possible. A curved or rounded chine edge or trailing edge will want to suck the boat down a bit. Leave any surface touching the water with a 400-600 grit finish to build a boundary layer of water. Smooth and or polished surfaces will add drag. The closer you get to the record you want to set the more important this will be. Rudder shape, size, angle, and placement will also help or hinder you. The angles on the running surfaces of the sponsons look pretty extreme as well as the transom sponson. You may want to lessen the angle and add a step forward (similar to what you see on offshore race boats or even a seaplane sponson).

Nice concept! Love the boat Also Nice vid

Good build mate looks fantastic. Me personally I would have large steering rudders on both pontoons.

Now that a proper build :)

The HMS Bluebird is beautiful!

It's a lot heavy boat. It have to be lighter. The floats have to be a little bit front. You need more thrust for this size of boat. Keep it up.

0 Dislikes and 95 Likes This...does put a smile on my face

Great video ! You should put a cone at the rear to reduce drag

I can't wait to see this fly!

Great videos man! Props from the us!

Lake is the most peaceful and calm thing in any country

Looks good 👍

Can’t wait to see more.

Well done😎

I love these types of builds. Wouldn't it be cool to have a real life version?

Love a good challenge. Go break some records 👏

Great video man. That back ride plate looks like it’s pretty steeply angled. May want to round it a little so the approach angle is better.

I still dont understand how you only have 30K subs, you deserve so much more man

thnks for the help i can fix my boats planning issues

your channel is so professional and you deserve way more subs! nice scenery too. keep up the good work

Really enjoyable.

Basing the design off a boat that flipped over & crashed is pretty brave ;) Anyways, cool project 👍

nice counter rotation blade setup

Underrated asf!

Great job man🚤

Simple recovery boat, magnetic attachment arm possibly.Maybe recovery drone.

Next level awesomeness

I got the notification for this video on my phone assuming this was RClifeon, started it and heard Tom stanton talking, then realized i was wrong again 😂 you got a new sub man