DIY Tung Oil Floor Finish - The Real Milk Paint Co. - Wide Plank Pine Floors 

Good luck!

and wondered about how long the smell lingered on and if it ever was too much to handle! Again, thanks

would love to know as well 😊

Thanks! Have fun doing your project!

I used about 2.5 gallons of each. But these pine boards really soaked it up. Another room was oak and it didn't take that much.

We didn't sand a lot. Just enough to smooth out any rough spots. We were ok with a rustic looking floor. We rented Orbitec Sander. The kind with a large rectangular pad. We started with a course grit and then used a finer grit.

Country Girl Living , thank you so much , great channel

A lot! I can't remember exactly how many, but just for two bedrooms, I think it was about 5 gallons, plus another 5 gallons of the citrus solvent.

She is doing it absolutely right. On a floor you definitely do NOT want the oil to form a layer on top of the wood (as you usuall aim for when it comes to furniture). If the oil turns into a coat on a floor it will turn into a big ugly mess in no time. On floors it is about the planks becoming more resistant against dirt, moisture and to some degree mechanical stress. For a glossy finish you might use wax but usually varnish is the way to go for.

@@Lampenschlepper You're not understanding me. If it doesn't turn into a mess on a piece of furniture, it won't turn into a mess on a floor. The process is the same. Apply generously, wait a bit, and then rub it off. BIg difference, however, between applying a new layer when the other one has not dried....and applying a new layer when the last one is solidly dry. It builds protection. And hey, there are also far too many videos and people that say the same about applying to furniture...that you keep applying when coats have not fully dried. What you get is one layer that has penetrated to the max and that's it. That ends up being a very thin layer, regardless of how many times you apply it wet. I'm doing a piece of furniture now....and just about to apply my sixth coat. It's hard and smooth, as I lightly sand with very fine sandpaper every coat or two. The same is what should be done with a floor. Takes two months, though. That is where I'm making a point that this whole floor method is compromised from the get go, to get it done fast. I probably would never use pure tung oil on a floor, to be honest, because of how long it takes to get a proper finish.

@@joeidaho5938 She's doing it right. Wood can be thought of as billions of tiny drinking straws all cinched together into a block. They are built to carry water. Superficial coatings like polyurethane protect wood from water by sealing only the tops of the straws with a hard, superficial shell of accumulated layers. But natural oils have a different philosophy. With natural oils the idea is to fill up the straws until they can't hold any more liquid (oil in this case), so that if water ever tries to find a place to get in, it'll find that every space is already occupied with oil. Once the straws are filled with oil until they overflow (the surface of the wood stays wet after 10 coats, in her case, because the wood has absorbed all that it can), only then do we want to let it "flash" or begin to dry and plasticize, effectively capping off the tops of the straws with the magic alchemy of natural oils like tung. In order to get a good protective shell on the surface with natural oils we don't have to apply more subsequent coats after the previous coat has dried. We just fill up the pores of the wood til it overflows, however many coats that takes. We have to wait 40 min - 2 hours between tung oil coats so that the big fat oil molecules have time to slide their jelly down into the little straw holes. It's like trying to get cars through the mouth of the Lincoln Tunnel into Manhattan. There's no point in adding thousands of cars all at once. They can only go through one at a time. But if you give them enough time, a thousand cars will travel through that tiny narrow straw and make it to the other side. Once no more fatty jelly can fit into the pipe, THAT's when we then wipe off the visible wetness with lint-free cloths (t-shirts in her case). We wipe it til it looks almost dry again. That perfect ridiculous thinness is what we want so that the oil flashes in a perfect, thin, hard, natural plastic layer. If we leave it pooled up and wet and it flashes, it'll just be gummy and sticky and never feel dry. She's doing it right.

@@studioecotopia I don't think you really understand the process of finishing with pure tung oil. Most people want the process to be fast...so they apply one coat...and think that's a nice finish. How many finishes are done with just one coat, and produce a great finish?? None I can think of. The process of finishing with tung oil ...is no different than any other finishing process. People are just lazy....and so they easily fall for this process of just applying what is essentially one coat...and letting it dry. There is no depth to a one-coat finish....no matter how much you wet the wood. Finishing properly with tung oil....takes many weeks...because of the long drying time. Ya....you can take shortcuts...but that's exactly what you are doing...and compromising the final finish.