That's seemed to be the most critical thing to the whole repair... Knowing WHAT is being repaired. Considering this repair works across multiple units, as well.
I just replaced two infinite switches on our Whirlpool electric stove this morning. It took me 20 mins from start to finish and about $80 for parts. Easy job and now both of our dual zone front burners are working correctly. Thanks for your vid. (01/04/24)
Thank you so much! My stove is six years old now. The left front burner will only cook on high even when I turn it to low. Bought it at Lowes and they weren’t very much help gave me a phone number. Fixing to order that part right now. I’m a widow and I have to do most things on my own and videos like yours definitely help!
Patricia, mine is the same age, also bought at Lowes and I have the same left front burner issue. I'm ordering the part from Amazon now and thanks to the Repair Dude, I'll be fixing it myself. Thanks Home Improvement Channel!
You da' man, thanks pal! I have the same issue going on with a Whirlpool and if my wife yells at me one more time while she's cooking dinner to fix the stove we may be having to go see a lawyer lol. Ordering the switch and getting this job knocked out this week. Thanks for the advice and for sharing things like these to help people out with a quick youtube search. Keep up the good work, simple, concise, and to the point.
Thank you so much for the video... my stove has been acting up for a while, thought about just buying a new one. After watching your video, ordered the part you had posted and it all worked perfectly and was done in about 5 minutes. Thanks again, you are appreciated.
I just completed replacing the switch on my Whirlpool range using your excellent video as a guide. Nothing to do with your fantastic instructions, but the stem on the new switch sticks out further than the original, now so does the knob. A small thing, to have the stove in tip top shape again. Thanks so much, Rudy! 👍🪛👏
HI! Thanks for the great feedback. I don't have that oven anymore, but I do seem to remember that mine stuck out a little bit more than factory too... 😀
This is exactly what our 10 year old Kenmore range is doing. Works most times but sometimes burns food. I'm going to have a look tomorrow morning. Thanks so much.
I checked out the electric range and all 4 burner switched have what I would call moderate to severe soot deposits around the contactor. I'm wondering now if I should replace the 4 of the switches or just the defective switch.
Oh yea.. Service calls are very expensive. I can understand why, most of what you pay for is them showing up to your door.... Thanks for the comment... :-)
I’m having the same exact problem. I am going to order this part. Update - I called Lowe’s since I bought my stove from there. They gave me a number to call and I was able to purchase from this place. The part came in and And it was as easy as unplugging the old part and plug-in and a new one my stove works properly now. Thanks Rudy!
Thanks mine does the same thing , I put it on low and the heat is raging on high , have to turn it off , ordered the part as I have the same range , will get hubby to change it out for me this weekend , thanks man , appreciate this.👍👍
Thanks for the video! My range has been doing this for a long time. Called a repairman and he said the burner needed to be replaced, as well as the infinite switch. That just didn't sound right to me, so I started researching. This is exactly what my stove is doing; I've said the burner is losing it's mind! Not sure I want to replace it my self, but I'm sure I know someone who will do it for me.
You may notice some push-on connectors are very hard to pull off a mating tab because they might be the safety type with a very tiny push pin that needs to be depressed with a fingernail or small screwdriver before pulling connector for removal.
Excellent video and great teaching. I have a question about Whirlpool - 30" Self-Cleaning Freestanding Electric Range, Model:RF362LXSQ Front left burner was going but not alternating off to on as usual, and as we got the repair man he seems to have fixed it and now it’s pulsating again, but it takes about 30 seconds in intervals. First hot, then it goes off for 30 seconds, then it comes back again. Is the 30 seconds interval normal time?
HI, I can't say if "30 seconds" is a normal time, but unless the burner is on the highest setting it is normal for it to pulse between off and on. And yes it can stay in the off mode for around 30 seconds or so... That's how it moderates the temp. The burner itself doesn't burn any hotter or colder with the settings, it's just on or off. The pulsating between off and on is how you would make a setting like "medium" to work.. if that makes sense.
I had the same problem. Reminded me of the fix for old TV channel tuners. They tended to get dirty and would not work correctly. I had the same problem with the burner not regulating. Try spinning the control knob around and around and back and forth. This is how you used to clean corrosion off tuners and it worked for me on the stove infinite control.(at least for the last 2 weeks)
Excellent.. Oh yes, I remember those very well.. If It breaks again, you might want to add some electronics cleaner. They are still using that cleaner to clean volume knobs on radios, etc. DeoxIt makes a good one.. Thanks for the great feedback.. 😀
Burned my pancakes last weekend and my salmon tonight, figured it was time to figure out what is going on. Thanks the video!! Ordered the part and will be here soon.
Thank you for the video. I live in an apartment and just one day my 1 large burner on older model whirlpool stove/oven combination range went to high and no matter what setting i had it on it was what i thought even higher than the highest temp should be.. I contacted management and at first she told me that was impossible, i just be mistaken. well maintenance came by and said they had to replace that part. everything worked good for about 6 weeks then issue started again. they replaced the part again and tested stove (visually) and said it was fixed. Less then a week and it happened again.. I asked that they replace my appliance but the maintenance man said it was an older stove so the part was aftermarket. he said w/aftermarket part the temp would be different so I would need to select a temp setting less than what i needed to use and it would be ok. I may be blonde and a female but the whole time he was talking all i could think of is "you think im buying this b.s,?" Well it doesn't matter what temp i choose it goes to high. I almost caught the apartment on fire frying bacon, thinking it was on medium. What can I tell my complex so that they will repair or replace my appliance properly? besides asking if they really think i am an idiot.?
Wow, that's a good one. I guess they keep replacing the same part? Maybe ask them to replace the element. There may be something wrong with the element, causing the temp control to keep burning up. I don't know what you could tell them so that they'll replace the whole element, except that they've been there multiple times and it's not fixed and I would mention that you almost burned the whole joint down while cooking bacon! That might help...😆
Try switching one of the other controls to the bad burner and see if it cures that bad one (as long as they're the same).. if so, you'll have more confidence that the control will fix the problem.. :-)
I bought a whirlpool convection range and while the oven works great (so far), I have burned at least half of what I try and cook on the stove top. Just today a pot of beans scorched within 30 minutes of putting them on and the dial was set on low because I can't find a happy medium with the burners. It's either OFF or DEFCON 5 BOIL. I'm so disappointed in this. But I am going to order some infinite switch components and replace the burners and hope for the best. Thank you for making this video!
@@TheHomeImprovementChannel The two biggest burners seem to be the ones I cannot get to regulate temperature. The two smaller ones are fine so far. I've only had this range a month. I have ordered the two switches for those two burners. I'm reduced to using the microwave and as any good cook will tell you, it comes with a good deal of shame.
@@TheHomeImprovementChannel Since I bought it as a returned item, (it had been damaged on delivery and was returned), the warranty is void. I paid $500 for a $1200 range, and I'm starting to worry that it wasn't worth it. lol
THANK YOU VERY MUCH SIR..!! I REALLY APPRECIATE IT..!! I just saved $900 thanks to you. I spend $80 at Amazon (4) switches. I had only (2) in bad shape but I changed all of them. THANK YOU!! God bless you! Cheers! 🙏💪🤙
@@waynesalekin4737 hi Wayne, I just saw your message. Sorry about that. At Amazon I ordered (2) of this one: (RB) ES9404 Surface Element Infinite Switch For Whirlpool 3149404, 3148951, PS336993 (1) of this one: Supplying Demand W10434452 Range Stovetop Dual Surface Element Control Switch Replaces AP6021365, PS11754687 Model Specific Not Universal (1) OEM Range Switch 3149400 Amazon's Choice for "wp3149400 whirlpool range infinite switch" And is working 100% perfectly. I’m not an electrician but with this video I was able to fix it. PLEASE UNPLUGGED the stove! Cheers! 🙏🏼🤙🏼 Ps. I’m going to try to send the links in another message.
Thank you for the video it was excellent! Question, I have a Whirlpool electric smooth cooktop. Do you think the same fix would apply? After seeing all the comments from people who have the same problem, I am thinking of switching to a gas powered cooktop. Do you have any opinion on these?
It "could" be the same problem. I aways tell people to use one of the other switches (from the same size burner) and switch it out with the suspected one.. then you'll know if it's fixed then that's the problem. Gas is great, but if you haven't already run a gas line, it can be quite a project.
I have a kenmore coil stove top and all 4 burners have runaway heat whether one 9 or 1. Does this still sound like 4 individual parts gone bad? Also the oven runs a little hot but is usable if you watch what you’re cooking closely. Top burners ... you can’t watch and cook on. Will burn every time.
I don't know how you're particular stove is wired. I think there's only the burner and the burner control. You might have a schematic in a envelope on the back of the stove. If you do, take a look at it and see if there's anything else listed there. If not, it's one or the other. I'd start with one control and see if it solves the problem for that single burner before you invest in all 4. As for the oven, i'm not sure if there's a way to calibrate the temp or not.
Good video but I still have a problem. I haven't found a video to address the issue of 3 out of 4 of my burners do not regulate the heat properly. Would 3 switches go bad or is there another 'master switch'?
Not regulating heat properly means that all of them are getting power... I would maybe consider replacing one of the switches to see if the problem goes away before spending money for 3 of them...
Thanks for the quick response - let me re-phrase ..... would I be correct in thinking ALL FOUR controls are the SAME MODEL number ? ( I DO understand there are 4 separate controls .... LOL ) In other words, the bigger burner has the same model infinity control as the smaller burners ? Not a different model number,with a higher capacity ???Thank YOU again !
Sorry for the confusion. Yes, I believe they are different part numbers. You'll have to google your Stove model number to get the parts breakdown and then from there you can see which part number goes to the burner control you need.. hope that helps.. :-)
Part came in and we installed it. The wires coming from the stove were in two different plastic plug type things that you could see through. We noticed the post on the infinite switch was a bit longer than the original which makes that knob stick out just a bit more than the rest. After we put it all back together and plugged it in we notice the "surface hot" light does not come on. I am guessing that one of the wires did not seat all the way in when we pushed the plug in. But the burner works!!
@@thereselott689 Yes, you might have to take it apart again and see if everything looks like it seated ok. If it does look ok, you might swap that switch with one in a different position to see if the surface hot light works... The one I did here is the same way, the post sticks out a little more than the factory one.
@@TheHomeImprovementChannel Update: It worked just fine, we were going to take it apart the next day and when cooking on it that night the light started working. My guess is since we were testing we didn't leave the burner on long enough to signal the "surface hot" light to even come on. So its all fixed and wonderful! Thank you again!!!
Thank you, however my electric range burner functions erratically. But this could be a similar problem. I will buy the part. Nonetheless, the switch you had in your hand is called a range surface element control switch.
Yes its a good possibility that's what's wrong with yours. One thing I always recommend is if you have another burner of the same size as the one that's acting up, you can swap out the control switch with the one that works properly to see if the problem is gone, then you'll know before spending any money. Thanks...
All four of my burners are flaking, which just started today. They will go to high, but when I turn the temperature down, they shut off. If it's all four, do I likely have a bigger problem?
That's a good question.. I am not sure how to answer that. Possibly look up the schematic for your stove and see what's in common with all 4. I'm thinking maybe the circuit board, but I'm guessing. Possibly one of the burners themselves is bad and it's affecting the other 3.. I've had this question pop up before and haven't come across the answer.
I don't know the part number. The best thing to do it find your model number. Probably on a sticker inside the door and google the model number and look up the infinite switch to make sure you get the right one. Make sure and pay attention to large burner / small burner. I think they are different.
What’s the chance all four switches need to be replaced? Bought a new home and literally all of the burners are doing exactly what you described. I thought I needed a special type of cookware to use with these types of stoves
I've had other people with the same question. I just did a google search and the only thing I came up with was the single burner like I have in the video. I haven't had anyone come back with a resolution or outcome. I doubt all the burners went bad, but I guess it's possible. I'd have to see a schematic of the stove to see if the board is in common with all the burners..
Do you happen to have a video on testing the switch? I'm curious if it is possible to confirm the switch is the problem on a burner that is at max heat while on, regardless of setting.
HI, I don't. I usually suggest to switch out the switch with one of the other burners of equal size. IF that burner is working properly on the other burner, it should as well when you switch it out if that's the problem. Now of course if there's something else wrong, you're running the risk of damaging the other switch that was previously good. Most likely you won't, but just wanted to tell you it's always possible.
Hopefully you'll see this comment. How will I know if the problem I'm having is the coil or the regulator? I'm going to assume that since the coil works it just stays on high when I set it on low that it's probably the regulator...any thoughts? Thanks in advance for the reply!!!
It probably is the regulator switch, but I do suggest that if your stove is like this one with 2 big and 2 small elements, take the switch from the other working element (of the same size) and swap it to the one in question. Making sure to disconnect power and take pictures of the wiring or write down the wiring so there's no chance of a mix up... Hope that helps.. 😀
My glasstop store is having a element pro lem. The element stays on high all the time. Will I need to replace the element or the knobs. As you can tell I don't know much about the repair process so any help would be appreciated. By the way I'm a 70 year old grandma that can't afford a repair man so I'm going to try to do this myself.
I'm only guessing, but from your description it's the switches behind the knobs as I show in the video here. If your stove has more than one element and you have another element of the same size, (large to large or small to small switch) I would take the switch from the working one and swap it to the suspected position to confirm if that fixes it or not. Take a picture of the wiring before you take anything apart and be sure to not do this job while the stove is plugged in! This way you can confirm the problem without spending any $$...
Here's a question - do all 4 burners use the SAME infinity heat control device ? My smooth glass top stove has 2 - 6 inch burners, 1 - 8 inch, and a larger one - looks like a 10 inch. What needs my immediate attention is the 8 -inch - but I just want to be sure there aren't different versions for the different burner sizes - Thanks for an excellent video, by-the-way !!
Ok since I only seen you replace one of these switches, I'm guessing they don't all need replaced, which brings up a question... I constantly use the large burner, so can I simply just change out the switches from one of other (smaller) burners that I never use?? Are all of these switches the same??
I actually think the smaller ones use a different part number. You can look up your model number and compare to see if the bigger one and smaller one use a different part number.
I tried swapping the switches around as they look identical and appear to all be wired the same... Looking at the schematic for this stove though, the smaller burners do have smaller wattage switches, so hooking one of the switches from a smaller burner to a larger burner will result in the larger burner probably not getting enough wattage.. With things hooked up this way large burner will never get hot enough to fry food or boil water correctly..
Yes that's what I thought... but I think what would happen is not necessarily that the large burner wouldn't get hot enough. But I think it would burn out the switch pretty quickly with the smaller rating..
Thanks for the help it would be nice if the stuff you bought actually lasted longer than three years before it busted. Companies like Whirlpool are a joke these days. My new general electric oven broke as well I hate these companies now.
100% agree. In fact the oven I replaced was a 30 year old unit and I pretty sure it was green. Same with the rangetop. Not a single problem for decades though. This new stuff is junk! @@TheHomeImprovementChannel
😀... It does seem that way. I guess it's the price we have to pay for not wanting a vintage green or yellow appliance in our kitchens!... Lol. I have to say, they were quite ugly. When I watch something from that era on TV, the first thing I do is say... "man look at those appliances"! Not in a good way.. Lol.
@@TheHomeImprovementChannel I just finished replacing the dual zone and one single zone switches a few minutes ago. We’ll see what happens. I’m not cooking tonight…
Thanks for the video. I wonder if the double burner has the same 3149400 part. This is a WFE515S0EW0. So now I have the double burner and the big one next to it staying hot.
I have a glass top GE stove that is about 4 years old. It has always cooked very hot. The burners seem to respond to being turned down, but it's either a full on boil or nothing. Do you know, are these glass top stoves just really hot cookers?
Thanks for the video! In my case it's a Frigidaire Professional Series stove/oven, we've had it for 15 years and it's beginning to come apart, one of the surface elements remains on and I have to throw the breaker switch in my electrical panel to turn off the entire thing. After a while and disconnecting the stove's plug from the wall it can be turned back on and it'll work for a while, but after another while too it'll remain on again. My question is how did you determine it was the switch versus the board and/or element itself for example?
One way you can determine it is if you have other elements of the same size that are working properly, you can pull one of those switches out and swap with the bad one.. if the problem persists, then it's something else... That's a good free way to do the test... I wouldn't leave the wires hanging on the one you took out... I would put the suspected bad one back in place of the good one you just took out and hook the wires back up to it. This way there's not much chance you'll damage anything..
@@TheHomeImprovementChannel thank you very much for the reply. I will not troubleshoot it the way you suggest though, first for the possible wire mishandling you mention, there are too many and because that particular element is shared with another in a bridge formation, for the latter I assume it'd be a different switch/connections.
Our 12 year old Whirlpool Easy Clean range elements turn off and on when on " High " setting and breaker trips when oven and one element of any size is set to " High " . Any tips what might be going on ?
Aww man.. that sounds hard. It almost sounds like a defective breaker or the wrong breaker, since you said the "oven and one element of any size". Is it a 40 amp breaker and the does the stove (as a whole) require a 50a? Do any of the elements turn off when on high? Doesn't matter which one? Could be the circuit board.. Realize I'm only stabbing in the dark.. I could be wrong..
@@TheHomeImprovementChannel - the elements except for the small one have always started fine on high but cycle off and on . Breaker is proper amperage for stove . Thanks for the quick reply btw .
I’m having a similar problem if o e if the burner stays on high when turned on is it usually this element you replaced or is possible due to the heating element, where do you get the part you replaced on this video
HI, it could be either one.. I got the part from Amazon. It's called an infinite switch. If you have the time, I usually recommend to change out the switch with one of the other burners of the same size and try it in the place of the suspected switch. Then you'll know for sure without buying one. Just make sure not to leave the wiring for the switch you took out dangling where they can short together or against any metal parts of the oven...
Hi! Looking for help with my whirlpool stove/oven! Suddenly my cooktop burners will heat and sudden go very low and not heat back up or at all. It does say "cooktop on" but nothing will be cooking. Oven is doing the same, heating to about 200-215 and then stopping. Sometimes I can turn the cooktop off and slowly turn it back on and it it will heat properly, as well as turning the oven off and back on and it will heat properly. Any help is appreciated!!
HI, to me it sounds like a control board problem. It sounds like the problem is in common with everything, including the oven. I'm only just guessing. I'm not actually a professional appliance repair person, so some of these problems I haven't seen before. I'd have to see a schematic to see if the control board is in common with the other components..
Hi, I’ve got that problem (burners acting erratically) but I have electric burners on an older model Frigidaire. Did models back in the 90’s or so also have an infinite switch? Thank you!
It's a possibility. I like to suggest if your stove has another burner that has a working switch to take that switch and swap it to the one in question to see if it solves the problem. Only do this from another burner of the same size, I believe the smaller ones are a different part number. Also take note of where all the wires went before you disconnect it.
I have a strange problem on a Samsung Range (Tripple element). It will not work until all the other ovens are on. Then when it turns on it is stuck in high. I am not sure what is causing this.
@@TheHomeImprovementChannel ....yes one is a 12 inch and the other one is an 8 inch. This burners are both in the front. I'm so tempted to change them myself, but I'm scared. I'm thinking about it.
If you're not comfortable consider having someone else do it.. "A person's got to know their limitations!" But if you decide to do it, change one wire at at time and take a picture before you change anything!... Best of luck.. 😊
Interesting problem. Do you have access to a wiring diagram for that one? I would look to see if there's anything else is in common with the burner. Is there a temp sensor that's possibly gone bad?
I don't remember for sure. If I remember right the two larger ones use the same part and the two smaller ones use their same part number.. If you have your model number, you can google the parts breakdown and you should be able to get the P/N that way..
Hi! I had the same issue and bought a replacement switch, installed and am still experiencing the same issue, could it be a defective piece? Or can something else be wrong ?
HI. could be a defective piece... If you have another burner that's the same as the one in question.. for example, if you have 2 large burners and one is bad. You can pull the other switch out of the other working burner and swap in your new one to the place you just pulled the old working switch out. I wouldn't switch the old switch to the spot in question in case there's something there causing the switch to go bad.. then you'll have 2 bad switches! So if the new part works in the other spot, then you might possibly have a bad burner element? I'd have to see a schematic to see what else is in the circuit.
I think if the switch goes to another larger burner, those would be interchangeable.. as well as the ones that go to the smaller burners... I don't remember if you can change the smaller burners with the larger burners.. I seem to remember those were different, but I could be wrong.
I don't have a video on that particular one. It could be the same concept. I usually tell people to swap out the switch with another one from another burner of the same size, but since yours has only 1 largest one, I don't recommend that. Try to google that problem on the one you have and see if anything useful comes up.
It's usually the switch... could be the burner, but I wouldn't go out and buy a burner. if the wires will reach, try disconnecting another burner if you have another one of the same exact size and specs, and connect it to the switch in question and see if it makes any difference. Obviously with the power off!
HI, I found this article ... Looks like you might have a bad burner. This will explain how to check and see which one it is.. (probably the one that keeps cutting off) www.appliancepartspros.com/diy-story-hot-cooktop-light-stays-time-diy2487403.html Hope this helps you. Thanks.
My question is... my whirlpool stove stock on heat on the front both big burner but the 2 on the back ( small burner) is working properly, I dont think is the both switch are the problem? Can you please help me to solve my problem, thank you...😊
Hmm.. Did this problem happen at exactly the same time? Or did one develop a problem, then later the other one? Do you have the model number I can try to look up the electrical diagram..
@@TheHomeImprovementChannelhello and thank you for your time to answer my question,its developed a problem and when you used at the first time in medium hot it working properly but when it's too hot then try to put in lower position its stock and did not on & off the burner... model# YWFE510S0AS0 Series: R44524966 thanks.
i have a jenn air JES9750AAA and the front electric burner ran on full hot and was not controllable. i replaced the infinite switch with W1120791. the burner is now controllable when it is on by itself, but when i turn the back burner on at the same time the front burner is on, the front burner is now uncontrollable again. the back burner and front burner work perfect and are controllable when on by themselves and the back burner works perfect even when the front burner is on, but the front burner only works perfect when it is on by itself. can you please give me ideas/suggestions? thanks!
Hi, I was trying to locate a service manual/ schematic of your unit, but I didn't have any luck. Do you have the wiring diagram? Sometimes it's attached to the back of the unit..
@@TheHomeImprovementChannel thank you for the reply. i was given this solution: The original infinite switch was providing the constant power to the burner through the H1 terminal, and the H2 terminal was controlling the temperature by clicking on/off. The new switch W11120791 has the H1 terminal as the temperature control, and the H2 ("Hc" - new standard) is the constant power. So for both burners to work properly, you need to install either 2 original switches or 2 new updated switches, and the wires going to the H1 and Hc terminals need to be swapped around on each infinite switch.
@@TheHomeImprovementChannel after i changed the switch, inter coil is working, out coil is not working, but when i switch wrie, out coil is working, inter coil is not working, what's wrong?
There are other reasons why the burner won't turn on. If you take a switch from a working burner (make sure it's one of the same size) and put it in place of the bad one, you can be sure that's the problem. Otherwise it's a guess.
one thing to be minfull of is most stoves have small electric burners and large burners , naturaly the large burners are a higher wattage then the smaller ones , the infinite burner control switch is calibrated to work propery with one. "or" the other, so make sure you use care to get the correct part as they are not interchangable ,, so when you look at your exploded parts diagram for your model stove note the part number for the exact position the switch is located in .
My wife pulled out the stove to clean and pulled too far and two of the 220 wires got discounted from the back of the stove, when I reconnected the wires the two front burners and oven work fine but the two small back burners don't work now, they were fine before that. It's a glass top Whirlpool, Any idea?
Do u mean the cord got pulled out from the back of the stove? Those should have been under threaded posts! Did you pull the cord from the little eye hook at the end of the cord? As long as everything went back where it was it should still work. Make sure there wasn't any other wires from under those nuts that didn't make it back where they were..
