DJI Mini 3 Teardown: 30% Less Functionality for 30% Less Price! 

Much harder to fix then mini 2

@@Matanumimaybe because they put so much more inside the drone. Along with heavier parts from the upgrade from mini 2 to mini 3. Every sensor that gets added adds weight

Parts are plenty go to cloud city is all

Nah man keep making videos, I may need to use your gimbal gimbal tutorial one day. It’s the algorithm. This stuff isn’t popular with most people, but companies that do this stuff can pay for advertising.

Very unlikely

When it comes to drones, building is always the way to go. Even buying a build someone made is better in the long term.

I asked myself the same question, but I am also an engineer (and kind of knew the answer already). Weight (

You'll need to buy a broken drone and salvage the part or see if anyone on eBay is parting out their drone.

@@iFixitYourself mahn can u give me that cable ? It’s been like 5 months I’m still dead inside my house without flying and searching for the cable….

@@iFixitYourself could u pls help me….

Yah it's misleading. Serves same purpose as a wing on a Mazda 3.

if you dont crash you dont fly much in low altitude

This doesn't have the collision avoidance, it's very easy to crash this unlike their usual product lineup.

Are there alternatives that can take comparable footage and send live footage back to goggles or a controller/screen with comparable quality? I don’t like the price but I find their video transmission hardware so tough to beat. Building something custom that’s comparable has, at least in my research, seemed like it would cost far more due to the lack of integration.

@@steve-adams All DJI builds are streamlined copies of builds other people have made. The one advancement they had was the digital FPV protocol, but now there are several cheap digital VTX modules that do the same, and without the compatibility issues DJI built into their hardware. You can build a high end arducopter based drone for about $300 and it not only will have longer flight time than the DJI, but a lot more lifting power as well. Personally I don't like gimbals because I like seeing the FOV move when the drone moves to get an idea on my latency but there are many designs for that as well. DJI is for the guy who doesn't want to learn anything about drones and just wants to fly a few times before shelving it. It's a necessary market especially for commercial applications like inspection, but most people will be better off building their own.

@@DaveSmith-cp5kj Which VTX systems should I look into? I built a drone since I left that comment, but haven't gone a far as the VTX aspect. It's really just waiting on that, and I haven't had the time to follow through on research. Some tips would be appreciated!

@@steve-adams Caddex Walksnail is currently the best. You can get it for sub $100, although I would get the HD Pro kit for $150 as the camera has a much better night vision than DJI (not sure about the newest models though, my Mavic is about 4 years old). The transmitter is basically a copy of DJI exactly as the company is from former DJI employees. Personally what I would suggest though is to use an analog camera and mount a nicer camera on that. The reason is that analog gets about 3x more range than digital options. All the long range digital videos you see like with DJI are with line of sight, such as launching from a hilltop or across a flat surface like a desert or over a forest. Most applications you won't have LOS so digital usually only gives you a few hundred yards before the image suddenly drops. This benefit of analog is why you don't need the collision avoidance (although arducopter can have that added) because you shouldn't ever be left headless with analog like you will with digital. In both analog and digital your range will be reduced based on your connections. Electrical noise can cause both systems to have feedback during flight maneuvers that can be corrected in various ways, check youtube vids and forum posts about this. Usually the main fix is the use of a capacitor. Also for the battery you are going to want to use 21700 cells as this is far more efficient than 18650 that used to be used. Also don't buy a frame, 3D print them. FDM ender 3 Printers are so cheap they are basically the same price as a frame. Being able to print a frame means you can easily make big and small frames and tailor the flight characteristics to exactly what you want. There really isn't any engineering that goes into frame design, so you can also make your own from scratch. If you have never done CAD I would suggest designspark. It's probably the fastest program out there because it is a click and drag modeling system vs a coordinate style system. Although it is not as powerful as say Fusion360, but unless you are making auto engines you shouldn't hit any barriers.

Can some one corfirm? what voltage those pins give? are they always powered or only when you start the drone?