i run 5 different Primary Arms scopes on some of my rifles.First i bought a couple of the new $499. Apollo 3-18x50..And a DMR 5.56 Then I got the GLX 6-24x50. It was better.And finally the Apollo $1,500.PLX 6-30x56..It a pretty nice glass .I was disappointed that with the cheap $499.Apollo it had locking turrets and the expensive Apollo did not have this feature.I should have read up on it more. The glass is lacking a bit compared to my Delta Stryker and Tract Toric though. It does work well ringing steel at 1000 yards though.
Great review! Would love to see a video comparing your favorite scopes and light transmission on a foggy day, sunny day, morning, noon and dusk. Your set up for this video was great!
Thanks. For most modern scopes light transmission is not hugely different with different lighting types. There are some differences, but to show the clearly requires a fairly careful setup. While I can certainly do it, in the grand scheme of things, it will be an absolute waste of time. For modern riflescopes, light transmission is not a good predictor of performance. I'll be doing a livecast tomorrow, dedicated to simply answering questions and if you chime in, I will be happy to get into more detail live on air, so to speak.
@@DarkLordOfOptics Thank you so much! Light transmission has always been a big for us in the hunting world because the last 15 minutes of light before darkness is where 90% of our harvests are made. If I can't join you tomorrow, I would love for you to take a few seconds to address this question. "How would you mount your rifle scope if you were wanting to shoot 1000yd targets?" I've seen 20 MOA bases and 20 MOA Scope Rings available and was thinking about pairing these with a 65 MOA scope so I could in theory have 105 MOA for total adjustments. I think its kind of a lot fun - especially when coupled with a 22lr for those 500 yd matches lmao
2:30 maybe this is why(taken from website) Due to the optic’s First Focal Plane construction, the measurements or subtensions in Sharpshooter MOA are correct and true at all magnifications. You never have to worry about being at the “wrong” magnification to range estimate or use the holdover grid.
What i would like to see is the first two hash marks (whether mil or moa) of the vertical stadia have subtentions. If you're ranging the target it's most likely not filling up the reticle so why have those subtentions at the very end?
I have wondered about something for a while but I have never seen it addressed: What do illuminated reticles do to our night vision? I have always heard that red light effects night vision less than the more energetic photons but there are green and amber reticles now and even gold that is supposed to work for color blind people. If you could get a few identical scopes with different color or switchable reticles and maybe a Meopta with a dichroic reticle and a plain reticle for a control, you could do an interesting test. Do illuminated reticles help you see the target in poor light? Does looking at an illuminated reticle mess up your night vision? Do color and brightness have an effect? So far most of my choices have been plain reticle or red illuminated but it seems like more variety might become common. I have a feeling that red illuminated will probably be best but subjectively I would like to hear how they work.
This is a fairly well explored topic, so I do not need to do a test on this. Generally, red illumination is more forgiving of your night vision, but with any illumination color it comes down to how bright illumination is and how much of the reticle is illuminated. In truly low light you want to keep the illumination as low as possible and you generally want the illuminated portion of the reticle to be pretty small.
got mine and love it but i got the 3-18x50 and with coupon only payed $410 and have no regrets. pretty nice scope. im with you on maybe the first 8moa on the retical could have hashes on every moa instead of 2 would be smart.
How does this compare to the Primary Arms 2.5-10x44 Glx? The turrets on that is very nice with the Griffin mil reticle, and glass made in the Philippines, should be a decent competitor. Would love to see this in Mil/MRAD vs the Primary Arms Glx. One other thing this does not seem to have is the illumination switch does not have off between each brightness setting.
I have not seen the Nitro and I did not like Nikon FX at all. Some were OK and some were horrid. With Nikon out of the scope business I would not touch one with a ten foot pole.
That sorta depends on lighting conditions, what you are looking at and your eyes. During the day and with a light background, I can see it on all magnifications for now. As I get older, I won't be able to, I am sure.
That's a really tough call given how comparable the prices are. I think on balance the KO has a slight edge, but I do prefer the MRAD DevL reticle Sig has. I think it comes down to the reticle choice and hwo much time yo uspend on high magnification. Optically, the Kentucky Long's larger objective does give it an edge on higher magnifications.
@@DarkLordOfOptics I'm sure your video follows some sort of flow and ends with an overall assessment. It is helpful to identify "at 1:10 if when I speak about glass clarity, at 2:50 I discuss eye box, at 4:30 I speak about turrets, ect.. ect.." that way people can skip what they don't care about and go direct to the information they want.
Optika6 5-30x56 is a little better although more expensive. It will be interesting to see how Optika6 compares to the Warhawk. I wish Optika6 had a locking windage turret that KentuckyLong though.
@@DarkLordOfOptics thanks. I have a 24 inch 6.5 Grendel build I need to scope and I'm looking at this class of optic for it. Want to stay under $800 at any rate.
