Really nice man! I have this kit on my sporty. Raked trees make it handle and look much better. I installed air ride on the rear, rebuilt the motor with a hammer 1250 kit, 4 gallon tank, all my brakes work off the front lever, pingle electric shifter and I'm about to put a hitch on it so I can pull a small motorcycle trailer I got from harbor freight for camping trips.
Gotta thank you for your DNA video series. I just completed swing arm and axel install and yes, there's no instruction from DNA. Interestingly, I didn't have the differential line up issue, it fit perfectly on my 1200 Sporty. I didn't have to to replace the belt and the adjusting bolts are perfect if you put them in from the rear, so the bolt head is pushing on the axel. My shock bolts where also ok for length. I'm now trying to sort out the brake lines, could be fun. I'm thinking of going with a minimalist flat fender w/back from Amazon. Hope I don't regret that. Well thanks again. Chow 4 now.
Thx for all the help. Finally finished up trike. Quite an undertaking. I also added the body on mine (big mistake). The lack of any directions is rather frustrating and trial and error really sucks. I added air ride a custom dual exhaust, a steering damper. I was surprised how difficult it was to steer, and how bad the wobble was at low speeds. Again, thank you for a great video series.
Walt, as i said in 4 of 4, Air down your rear tires and most of the low speed wobble will stop. Yes stearing is harder. I have been riding 3 wheels for 10+ years now and am used to it. This conversion didn't stear that hard.
I put the Trikelife kit with body on my '08 Street Bob last year (2017) . Rebecca was nice to work with . She got me the wheels and studs . They were shipped from Summit Racing (Ohio) .
Thanks for this video series. I'm in the process of ordering the DNA kit for my 2019 Sportster 48 Special. Looking forward to it, though have seen some horror stories about dealing with this company. Guess I'll see. Chow.
Hey Sir, I watched all four of the build videos before commenting. Well done, especially very good job explaining the entire process. I’ll probably do the same kit this winter when I’m stuck in the garage. Did you ever end up raking the trees? Thanks again for the thorough explanation. Dwight
Thanks. For the info. I had nothing but problems with this kit. Nothing fits, no holes line up, the bracket for the body had to be reconstructed, the swing arm bushings journals had to be bored out, they sent me the wrong pulley and took too long to replace it, and so on. Tired of dealing with them. Do you know what kind or type of master cylinder is applicable?
I am truly sorry to hear about your product issues. Mine was on a sportster with not a lot of issues. Sounds like they sent you the wrong kit. I just searched my brake pressure issue on you tube and saw vids about it, sounded like something that might be gotten from J&P. But what if you get one and it is still not enough pressure? I would just order the right one from DNA in CA. Would hate to see you get one from J & P to learn it is not enough and can not return it.
I actually sold it a while back. But from what I understand, it is holding up fine and is still on the road. Plan to do another DNA conversion on a Triumph America next winter. Will be the first one ever done. Will be posting it when it is finished. I don’t sell these or have any affection with DNA. I just like trikes. The DNA is very reasonably priced and affordable for most people.
Dan, can you tell me how the fenders mount to this. Do they mount somehow to the axle or somewhere else. I've already run into problems with mine just as you did. I needed to flip the pumpkin which involved pressing the axle tubes out and re-installing them. I'm also interested on where you got the brake line kit for this build.
Rockman , sorry I didn’t get back to you sooner, just finished driving across country. The fender and mount kit came from DNA. Made for the trike kit. The mounting bracket has a bracket that wraps around the axle right near the hub and when tightened holds on the fender. Pretty easy to mount. I did place a small piece of 600 grit sandpaper inside it to ensure it would not turn on the axle. If you are making your own mounts I would not weld anything to the axle, but make a bracket that also wraps around the the axle and pinches tight to hold it. Glade you were able to get the pumpkin flipped. It lines up much better. As far as the brake line kit, there was one that came with the trike kit but was too short. I remember going to Harley and also to an auto parts store. Can’t remember which place I bought it from. Mine are made of a flexible plastic. Good luck
I just received my kit and was wondering what wheel studs you used also, I did not see any included (kinda was a little miffed it did not have a parts list or instructions)....
WHAT KIND OF CALIPER , (BRAND WISE) DID DNA SEND YOU/ I GOT THE SAME PROBLEM ALTHOUGH MINE IS AN FLHT THE PUMP IS NOT STRONG ENOUGH TO WORK. I WILL NEED THE 2 PISTONS ONES. THANKS
If you received the chrome ones, the only was would be to modify your master cylinder to high pressure. The 2 piston type were sent to me from DNA to replace those. I did not see a brand. DNA in CA sells them. Good luck on getting them to replace them. They didn't want to, if you bought the trike kit from them you might be ok but if you bought it from another company you will have to go through them. I can't believe they're still sending thwrong ones
With the trike axle in place with the attachment blocks, turn both adjustment bolts so the belt is snug. Turn the belt housing drum and axle so that the belt will not touch the belt housing either on the top or the bottom. Measure from the brake router to a ref point like the center of the swing arm bolt on both sides. Get it as close to the same measurement as possible. Turn the axle several times. Check the space on both sides of the belt on the front and rear belt sprocket to make sure the belt is traveling in the center. If all is good, tighten the axle blocks to just snug. Now back off the adjuster bolt one full turn at a time on both sides to keep the axle straight and check the belt tension which should not have any more than 1/2 inch play. When all is none, recheck the straightness by measuring both sides, the belt centered on the sprocket. Tighten the axle blocks so they are tight. No not attempt to ride it or anything until the inside blocks have been welded to the axle. Once welded you will not be able to move the axle. Also tighten the set nut on the two adjustment bolts. This process I just explained is vital to have a straight axle and belt. Good riding, Dan
I hope you packed the gears with axle grease when you parted the hub when putting the belt on. I didn’t design this conversion so I really don’t know, my guess would be, grease the inner and outer grease nipples when you change your oil. Every 2 to 3,000 miles with a very high quality grease.
I did not I reassembled the pumpkin Then used a grease gun and inserted about 7 oz of grease per insert I wished the manufacturer would sound off too Darrin
Jethro From Ohio I wish I could help you with this one, but you will need to contact Rebecca. I put her information after the last video. Tell her that Dan from the videos recommended her.
@@danharrell6200 thanks for responding so fast. I will definitely call her..great job building your trike looks awesome....I will contact you if I build 1 for myself
Dan Harrell..that is the wrong number.. it is 772-285-9585...I called the number you posted and it was not a working number. I went to th website and found the right one...just so other viewers know...thanks again
I bought off ebay. I tried an auto parts store but they kept wanting to give me auto style studs that press in from the rear. You need a stud that screws in from the front and has a separation/gap from the threads where you bolt on the tire. Use thread locker and slowly tighten up. Make sure the studs have enough length to go all the way into the hub, Also make sure they have enough stud to go through the wheel you choose. Mine were about 3/4 thick and then use the correct style nuts. Because of the diameter of the stud I was able to use an acorn (stainless steel) top dome with a flat side against the wheel. Depending on the wheel you may need a recess. In my opinion i would not use a wheel that has the oval holes to fit several makes. You have 3 bolt patterns with this you can get a variety of wheels. That said you will need to get studs and nuts to match your application. I have all my stuff sitting and waiting till it gets cooler to start my project. Also In my opinion do not get wheels too wide as it may stress the studs. A word of warning, not all studs are created equal, make sure they are strong made of good steel, not some cheap crap made from aluminum (I bought some online for a car (86 mustang 4 lug) they all broke (all 4) when I torqued down the wheel, but were very inexpensive (they looked like a aluminum/lead cast alloy), so I got what I paid for)
I bought a sportster with a DNA kit already installed. The back brakes do NOT work, I shall look to see if I have the 2 or 4 piston cylinders. I've never had much luck in bleeding brakes, so I'll get somebody to look at it. One of those safety items, that I'll pay the premium for.
Well i have the DNA trike axel same issues wrong pulley and brake caliper but a call changed that they sent right pulley and calipers. However you mentioned 2 thing's that came with your axel that didnt come with mine brake lines and wheel studs. So another call to make. Good video.
