I'd love someone to go to 5 different bike-fitters 5 days in row, what the hell would happen? Fitters 2,3,4 & 5 should say "you're spot on" but bet they wouldn't, and if fitters 2,3,4 & 5 move you about then it's clown world.
This is always my argument against bike fits. I’d love to see someone do a video where 5 fitters assess the same rider and then get together to discuss what they did.
@@Cycle.every.day. bike fitters should explain everything they do or change (which would eliminate knee over pedal spindle fittings). If you have conflicting opinions, it should be brought before a fitters court - if only…. Seriously, clients should ride with their fitters. If the fitter can’t make it work, go elsewhere.
I did mine at home, but it wasn't free. 2 seatposts, 3 or 4 handlebars, and 5 or 6 stems later and it's feeling pretty good, next to perfect. Have some more test rides to do and things to consider, but very close I think. And now I have a lot greater understanding of how everything works together and also the equipment to repeat the process with any bike.
This may be the most straight forward fit video on RU-vid. Most other fitters quickly dive into the weeds way too fast and don't stick to high level stuff. Thank you!
Very helpful! I currently get a lot of discomfort on my bike, likely because I haven't fitted it well! Thanks for this...if it doesn't do the trick, I will head to the fitter 😅
That is very interesting that you suggest locating only the fifth metatarsal and then moving the cleat slightly forward from there. Steve Hoggs and Shimano would suggest putting the cleat in between the first and fifth metatarsal as a starting point. Some bike fitters still suggest setting the cleat slightly behind the first metatarsal and some, unfortunately, say directly under the metatarsal.
@@grantritchie To be honest, the midpoint seems more reasonable. Bikefit James, this video and other bike fitters tend to say slam cleats far back or towards the rear because it is safer. Generally speaking this has been logical as many shoes had the cleat holes quite far forward (but not any more) and the advice is intended for "average riders". However, in my case, my foot arch is very long and my toes are very short. As a result, having rearward cleats gives me arch pain and the inability to spring, climb out of the saddle or have sufficient torque on steep climbs. I have to run my cleats much closer to my first metatarsal. With the exception of Neill Stanbury and Steve Hoggs, I have not seen anyone on RU-vid talk about how excessively rearward cleats can actually have negative consequences.
Absolutely, bike fitting is super personal since we're all built differently. We tried to give a broad overview in our video without getting lost in the details. But you're spot on - if someone's having issues, like with that rearward cleat thing, they should totally see a pro bike fitter. It makes all the difference having someone provide personal advice to your specific body.
@@grantritchie Indeed. The permutations for each person is practically unlimited. There are no quality bike fitters where I live so I have read and watch content followed by gradual experimentation and note-taking.
I find a pedal axle slightly in front of the 5th met sets it in-between 1st and 5th for the vast majority of people, whilst avoiding setting the cleat too far forward
This is a great video. I agree that bikefitting is an art, and bodies change over time so you if you do lots of miles, you'll probably need to tweak things here and there as you go.
Hi, very informative video about how to start with bike fitting :D But one big thing come to my mind is if I don't have any trainer at home, how should I do the filming myself part to know the angle of my knee and stuff? :\
As much as I appreciate these videos, nothing can take the place of a good bike fit... Spend the money the first time to get a proper bike fit! You won't regret it!
what is the threee o clock position? in the freeze frame his femur is not in the three oclick position. It would be helfpful to put the 12, 3, 6, and 9 on the screen to illustrate where the clock is and where the pivot point is for the clock hands.
It refers to the crankarm orientation, the pivot point is the bottom bracket. 3 o'clock is the position where you push perfectly vertically on the pedal.
1, The piece of carboard is not stable. When taking measurement you want all surfaces to be stable other wise can lead to incorrect measurements. 2, He explained everything very well (apart from the cardboard) and I would highly recommend UK Bike Fit over a charlatan like "Phil Burt" and that's that. 3, Well Done 4, Peace
Very insightful! Thank you very much for the tips. I would love to have a bike fit done by Dan but I live in Flanders, Belgium. Could you perhaps recommend a good bike fitter in the broader region of Antwerp?
I’d book a bike / saddle fit but it looks like you’re in Matlock? Too far from the south east unfortunately. But useful guidance in this video, thanks.
How about something for us older folks who arent bikers but want to start riding for health, now I gotta go buy specific shoes to go around the block? lol Im kidding, but for real, I just want my hands to stop hurting when I ride 2 or more blocks
If your hands are hurting after a few blocks then there’s something definitely wrong with the fit, hopefully some of the tips in this video help to rectify things. Also you don’t need clip in shoes, but they do have a lot of benefits for longer rides. I don’t wear them for commuting.
“The best way to set saddle height is by feel” - so wrong. That’s how people return to what is familiar. If they have been riding with their saddle way high or low, they will just return to the same height and the same problems. I’ve been fitting bikes for over 20 years, I’ve done a **LOT** of fittings. I’m starting to get a sense of which RU-vid bike fitters actually have the level of experience that they try to get across. Having clients set saddle height by feel is a dead giveaway…
Totally WRONG. First you follow basic rules like those explained here, then from there you try to lower and rise the saddle to the limits where it becomes uncomfortable for the patient (ie feeling). This gives you the range where the best position will be found, once again, by FEELING it.
What do you think people do when they go to the gym and ride a stationary bike? Do you think they bring a bike fitter with them? Or do you think they just go by feel? 😂 Feel works just fine, it's really not as complicated as everyone makes it out to be. It's definitely problematic if the correct height isn't set, but it's also painfully (literally) obvious if it isn't correct. Once it's good, mark a notch in the post and it's locked in 🤯
@@teecee4459 lots of people injure themselves at the gym, so good example. The trick to avoiding injury is to be within range of motion, which means your body isn’t fighting where the bike is taking your feet. At my gym I see lots of short women (and some short men) get on the spin bikes and just pedal without any resistance. Spin bikes have 170mm cranks, a 40 pound flywheel and a 5:1 gear, which is to say it’s probably doing some damage. Fitting isn’t that complicated, but very few people have a clue. People think “ no pain, no gain”, then go injure themselves… it’s kinda simple, avoid destructive forces and your body will last longer. At 60 years old I’m still coaching kids 1/3rd my age, while most of my friends are having knees and hips replaced - the same friends who use the bikes at the gym!
Bit harsh to say you wouldn't trust him from one video where we're clearly trying to make something simple (and accessible) to as many people as possible as a starting point. Not sure what bike fitting experience you have, but Dan is incredibly highly rated by everyone who sees him.
I think you've unfortunately totally missed the point of this video! Out of interest, based on your understanding, where would you place the cleat in relation to the foot? I also never use KOPS to fit anyone individually. But when giving broad advice to a wide range of people, KOPS is a good place to start, as was explained in the video.
We tackled assembling the bike as a family project. ru-vid.comUgkxzg0clhbtRf2gGxPkVETFKJJKGqdsorQu The package is heavy, but I have 2 teen boys that were able to move it. The written instructions were great- we didn't need to watch the videos, but it was good knowing that the option was there if we needed it. After we were able to get it set up, the boys each rode 3 miles and I rode 8 and the bike stayed quiet. The display is easy to reset, and you can put it on whichever setting you are using (time, distance, calories, etc). I will say that my butt is a little sore from the seat, but that could be because I haven't rode in a while. While it is comfortable for me, it was not comfortable with the seat position for my friend (could not move the seat back far enough and he slightly looked like a kid riding a tricycle that he had outgrown). He also said that the seat hurt his manly parts. We are going to look for a different seat that will be compatible with this bike for him.I did purchase the Wahoo Cadence sensor and strapped it to the crank of one of the pedals. This will sync with my Apple Watch, iPhone and will import data in to my Health app. Wahoo does have other sensors available other than cadence. I can also keep either my phone or my iPad on the display and they both feel pretty secure.
Could be worth taking a picture of you on the bike from the front to see if everything looks relaxed, if so, it's probably fine (although I'm not an expert).
Also frame geometry (and body geometry!) can vary A LOT for the same size, in different models/categories of bikes! That said if you can play with all settings, handlebar and seat form and position, cranks length, pedals, shoes, I suppose 1-2 centimeters more or less in frame size should not be a huge issue...
