You know you need a catch can when your intercooler is full of oil. I recently got my IAG AOS purchased from Flatirons installed as a preventive measure. As I want to keep my new jdm EJ207 as healthy as possible. Thanks Flatirons Tuning! Next I have the RCM 4th cylinder coolant mod to do!
@@JD-xm6fx if i was to be in the turbo oil drain area id get the aos drain relocation hose as the iag drain location is not as ideal. Draining straight down to the head is better for flow and one less hose to fight when putting the intercooler back.
Thanks for the info, 52k on my FA-20 and have been burning 0 oil since i bought it (first owner). Feel a bit better now about not putting one on, but am buying one now since im preemptively replacing the PCV with a new valve and will already be there. Choosing catch can because i change my own oil and it will just be apart of my regimen. Appreciate your content!
Another thing with AOS not quite being a "set and forget" thing is that if you have a plastic AOS box installed from factory that sits on top of the engine like I do on my '15 Jeep Renegade, it will actually need to be replaced like you would an engine air filter So if you ever find that it's time to change the engine air filter and you know you have an AOS on top of your valve cover, it would be a good idea to check for seepage around where it mounts to the valve cover and replace if needed They're only about $80 as far as I know, are fairly simple to replace from my experience, and with my AOS it even comes with a new PCV valve already installed in it
Just got the Cobb (IAG) AOS installed on my FA20 WRX. Highly recommend it for these DIT engines! If you live in cold environments (below freezing), make sure to allow your car to fully warm up and thaw out any of those return lines before getting into it. I paired it with EGR+TGV deletes, clean as possible for my engine!
@ThuGfunk what do you mean “thaw out any of those return lines before getting into it”. Do you mean to use a heat gun to warm up those lines before starting the engine?😅 Or thaw out can be done by idling the engine? How to know that it’s thawed? I live in area where it can be deep freeze for week and on. One of the reasons why I still have not ever dreamed of getting one installed because I hear alot of issue with these things.
@@1atinlove This may help: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-5NN8GShcskM.html&feature=shares Between the AOS and Catch Can, it all depends on how much oil you are moving through the PCV, and how often you may need to empty the can. If you can get the AOS plumbed well, that may be the best bet? hope that helps and Stay Tuned!
@@FlatironsTuning thanks! I have a new build but want to reduce possible issues. It will be boosted so I'm worried about blowback and other possible oil issues with boosted applications
Good info. I have a 22 wrx with 10k miles(stock) and have not had to add oil in between oil changes. I live in Cali and don't plan on modding the engine so I may not need an aos/catch can.
Thanks for watching and thanks for your question. For a new and stock or mostly stock car, this is pretty normal. I'd agree that you don't need anything right now. At most, maybe a catch can to try to prevent carbon deposits in the intake manifold. Keep an eye on it and then you will be ready to get it sorted if things change. Hope that helps and Stay Tuned!
So I have a 2013 ford escape 1.6l. After installing a catch can, I noticed it fills up every couple days! After rigging a vent to the catch can, the can doesn't fill up nearly as quickly, but now my car runs a little weird and my car is throwing a vacuum leak code. I'm not even sure where to go at this point
Thanks for your question, and sorry that you are having trouble. The PCV system should be sealed to the engine, so adding a vent is effectively adding a vacuum leak, so the code you are throwing makes sense. It is possible to cause issues with a catch-can install, especially if you join any circuits of the PCV system together in a "T". I would recommend either having a professional check the installation of the can, or remove it to see if the car goes back to normal operation Hope that helps and thanks for watching. Stay Tuned!
My take. If you care enough about your engine health to install either, you know you don't want the minimal amount of oil either system catches to go back into your crankcase and you probably want to check and monitor how much blowby is being caught. An AOS doesn't give you that information and allows the contaminated oil to be recirculated. A catch can setup catches the same stuff an AOS does but returns none of it to the crankcase and allows you to monitor what's being caught and how much. It's kinda like the manual vs automatic debate. The AOS is the set it and forget it option that gives you no feedback. The catch can is the purists option. It's for people like me who spend 40 bucks every oil change to send a sample to Blackstone to monitor things. Something the AOS people won't be bothered with.
Thanks for the comment. I think that there is an argument that can be made that a good Dual-Catch Can setup can be an ideal for many applications. There may be a forthcoming video on that in fact... Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
@@FlatironsTuning I recently checked our dual catch can setup on our Stage 2+ tuned FA20. Was not a single drop in the CCV can, PCV can had maybe 1/4" after about 3200 miles and was mostly fuel vapors and oil with a touch of condensation.
Regarding "and allows the contaminated oil to be recirculated" - my car runs on E85 and most of what the catch cans collect is smelly water. Oil content is 5% at best. I shudder to think what is draining back into the sump when people use an AOS and ethanol-based fuel.
That is actually a sign that the PCV is working as designed. The valve covers are the fresh air source, so under normal operation, a bit of air should actually be flowing in through those ports, rather than venting crankcase pressure out.
There is an increasingly common practice of changing oil much more frequently on high power cars that are running E85, and I'd suspect that this is in large part one of the reasons. Thanks for your comment, thanks for watching, and Stay Tuned!
Single can vs dual can? Some argue CCV and head vents shouldn't be combined. Also, how did you measure crank case pressure and what values are considered 'normal'. Do these ranges change with forged piston engines?
Thanks for your questions. Ideally, yes, you don't want to combine Crankcase vents and Cylinder Head vents. Many AOS's do this without causing issues. But it gets more complicated with catch-cans. For more information on crankcase pressure, you definitely want to take a look at our video specifically on that here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-HAvxjSdQsXI.html Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
Oil air separator by my experience nearly cost me engine. Got 3 Impreza STI's, stock one has OAS, another one got forged engine and has typical oil catch. One day I opened catch can and found it full of mix (fuel and oil), what will happened if I had OAS instead ? :)
Thanks for the comment. Even when running an AOS, there can be some good information gained from running an oil analysis after your first oil change just to get an idea of whether or not there is any fuel contamination getting into the oil, and how much. From what we have seen, if the car is consistently getting up to full operating temp, the contamination is usually minimal if any. But if the car is driven short distances more, then the contamination could be higher. Hope that helps and Stay Tuned!
@@FlatironsTuning thanks for reply. IMHO OAS can be very expensive experience. Especially if it's used on high performance engine (when u spent over 10k on build). Better to stay with oil catch can and not be lazy to check levels.
Nice info on catch cans and AOS! Im running a grimmspeed aos with a catch can. do you think I should upgrade to the IAG AOS? I've been told that at my power level (450whp) that the grimmspeed aos creates too much crankcase pressure is this true?
Thanks for your question. First off, as discussed in the video here, take a look in the hose connecting the AOS to your turbo inlet and look for signs of oil there. That would be the first sign that you may want to consider making a change. Beyond that, you will want to look at our video talking about crankcase pressure, because that is one of the examples that we look at. Here is a link to that with the relevant time stamp: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-HAvxjSdQsXI.html Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
Thanks for your question. That is a hard one. Maybe, depending again on how much oil you are moving through the PCV system. There is a school of thought that you want to do more frequent oil changed when running E85, regardless of running a catch can or AOS. I'd say that the best thing to do if you are concerned would be to do some oil analysis to see if you are having any issues with your oil over a given amount of miles, and then check again if you install a catch can or AOS. It is better to have the data than to guess with something like that. Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
Can the 2002 JDM wrxs be fitted with an IAG AOS? I was advised the AOS for JDM spec is unable to fit ? And only a catch can could be fitted. Please shed a light on this? 🙏
Thanks for your question. Yes, all of the installation locations for the IAG can would be on our passenger-side of the engine, which is your drivers side. And because you have the steering column and brake booster, etc there, those brackets wouldn't work. I'd recommend looking at the RCM air oil separator. It is designed for the right-hand drive vehicles, so it will fit, and it is a very good design. Their drain design is really good, but it only works on RHD cars. Hope that helps and Stay Tuned!
Thanks for your question. That is a pretty high level of oil consumption. I'd recommend checking the PCV system, etc for leaks or issues first. It sound like there must be some kind of leak or other issue causing that much oil movement. If you were to put on a catch can, unless it was very large, you would need to empty it about every 500 km. If everything else is working properly, this would be a scenario where an air oil separator would come into play because that capture oil would stay in your sump. Hope that helps and Stay Tuned!
Thanks for the question. They would both work the same in that regard actually. As long as you aren't getting that much oil through the PCV, then the Catch Can is a good solution. If you are seeing more oil consumption, that would be a reason to move to the AOS. Hope that helps, thanks for watching, and Stay Tuned!
Thanks for your question. No, when you go to a dry sump, the PCV system is completely removed. you just have to be mindful of how you vent your oil tank because the scavenge pumps send all of the crankcase gasses there. Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
Is there a legitimate way of cleaning carbon deposits without dismantling the engine or are the products claiming to do so just snake oil, so to speak?
Thanks for your question. Subaru even has its own cleaner for the direct injected cars. I'm sure that it can help, but we haven't done any before and after inspections on the valves, etc., yet. I would guess that it would be most effective if it is done more frequently to keep any hard deposits from forming. Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
@@FlatironsTuning Thanks for your reply. Hopefully we'll see some tests in the near future. Thanks for your content. Always interesting and informative.
this was to much information just answer the question which one do I buy at 71k miles an AOS or a catch can?????? I have ADD this was overwhelming and i learned nothing
Thanks for your question. If you are not using much oil if any, you will be fine with a catch can. If you are using more than about 1 quart between changes, or you don't want to have to empty the catch can, then an AOS would be the best solution. Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
stock or modified? do you burn oil btwn changes? I'm stock (no power adders) at 61k mi and considering the dual can system from radium. yes, the cans require more hands on, but as mentioned w/cans you can see the amount of oil/fluid is caught. I'll check them weekly at first then gradually extend the checking interval as necessary; out to 30 days... or possibly 60 days if the amount of fluid is low enough for that interval. I've "heard" modified cars benefit more from an AOS.
