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Do the Italians Do it Best? Bespoke Suit Unboxing with Eric Jensen of Stefano Bemer 

Kirby Allison
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Do the Italians Do it Best? Bespoke Suit Unboxing with Eric Jensen of Stefano Bemer
I just received my first bespoke suit from Eric Jensen at Stefano Bemer! Do you think the Italians make the best suits in the world? Check out this video and let us know!
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25 сен 2024

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Комментарии : 228   
@krollic
@krollic 2 года назад
The fabric colour couldn't be more under-stated yet distinct. Very nice.
@Eisenwulf666
@Eisenwulf666 2 года назад
i wasn't a fan of the colour at first but it grew up on me the more i looked at it. Truly a great fabric. Now, the tie..it's too much for me, but it fits the rest quite well.
@johnnychin
@johnnychin 2 года назад
The length of the trousers is a personal preference but the asymmetrical roll on the lapel is really conspicuous. The drape on the back also seems quite off.
@kirbyallison
@kirbyallison 2 года назад
This is really down to the jacket having literally been “unboxed” on camera.
@ArtU4All
@ArtU4All 2 года назад
@@kirbyallison Will we see the suit again restes?
@gregorythomas2674
@gregorythomas2674 2 года назад
Great fabric! May be your nicest suit from what I can see. Bellissima!!
@denton1972
@denton1972 7 месяцев назад
That is a handsome suit. The color of the fabric is indeed unique and elegant. Pinstripes are always elegant.
@waltersickinger263
@waltersickinger263 2 года назад
The left lapel does not roll to the top button. The right and left lapel are unbalanced. The back pulls across the small of your back. The right shoulder is too tight...note the dimple below the sleevehead. Whatever you paid is too much.
@paulmcgee1867
@paulmcgee1867 2 года назад
Is it because of the light cloth not allowing any drape?
@aar498
@aar498 2 года назад
@@paulmcgee1867 No. It is a cutting issue.
@up3371
@up3371 2 года назад
First hated this comment but after second viewing I have to admit it’s not false. Not comparable to an English tailored suit. Fabric is beautiful though
@DrAdd1999
@DrAdd1999 2 года назад
Did Kirby not notice the lapels
@asegal4677
@asegal4677 2 года назад
Hate to say it but all correct. And both shoulders have terrible indentations upon the slightest movement which should not be present with bespoke at this price point.
@PeteBrant
@PeteBrant 2 года назад
Have to say, Kirby, it looks absolutely tremendous. Love your videos. Keep up the great work.
@HEAVYISPY
@HEAVYISPY 2 года назад
Always love a pinstripe! I have an odd jacket made in a Dormeuil fabric, love it in the spring and fall!
@scottbrandon6244
@scottbrandon6244 2 года назад
I really like the cloth chosen for the suit. Dormeuil is always a good choice. The suit coat sits well on the shoulders. However the suit needs a pressing. The trouser cuffs are hemmed too high for some reason. Ideally they should be just above the heel of the shoe. And the back of the tie (smaller end) should not hang longer than the front of the tie.
@bartell1307
@bartell1307 2 года назад
Kirby likes to have a small part of the tie to be longer.
@collinsadotey1655
@collinsadotey1655 Год назад
are u a tailor?
@daniell2217
@daniell2217 6 месяцев назад
That really is a dynamite suit. Eric’s work seems to really blend the best of Italian and English tailoring. Beautiful drape. Perfect balance. Semi-structured shoulder. And the subtle pinstripe looks better than I thought it would. Lovely!
@greggani4716
@greggani4716 2 года назад
That is one of your best looking suits, especially in this Texas heat.
@howtotieatiequick
@howtotieatiequick 2 года назад
Lovely suit, and it's impressive that it looks so good straight out of the box. I'm not sure if it's a cultural difference but in British tailoring we talk about 'cloth' rather than 'fabric' and 'alterations' rather than 'adjustments'. Still a nice suit though :-)
@blzt3206
@blzt3206 Год назад
Cloth is correct because they’re clothes. Fabric usually refers to drape or curtain material but can also mean cloth.
@mariajoseribeiro7025
@mariajoseribeiro7025 8 месяцев назад
Sr, im from Portugal Oporto.Tanks niice clips "videos".
@aaronallen4647
@aaronallen4647 2 года назад
Kirby? Please post the video on luggage and traveling with the suits. Thanks
@alvancabrera391
@alvancabrera391 2 года назад
The cut of this suit looks like is of the rack!!! Nothing like it was tailor made!
@Philo68
@Philo68 2 года назад
The shoulders and sleeve-heads are stunning! Once it’s settled and moulded to your body it’s only going to improve with age. While in London Kirby, be sure to get a couple of your suits sponged and pressed on Savile Row. They’re the best at building the shape and life back into the garment, plus it’d make a great video to see it being done to one of YOUR tired suits. Beautiful job Eric! I’m sure he’s pleased. Edited for spellcheck.
@matthewcoupeofficial
@matthewcoupeofficial 2 года назад
That what bugs me about this suit.
@EEK1810
@EEK1810 2 года назад
It looks like the fabric is excellent and I like the pattern and color. But I see too many wrinkles and the pants are short. Something went wrong with the stitching of the pieces. Sorry about that..
@Alf763
@Alf763 2 года назад
It’s been sat in shipping for a long time, and he literally said the trousers didn’t need to be adjusted so it’s clearly a styling choice
@benjaminblakemore9704
@benjaminblakemore9704 2 года назад
Hey Kirbs, What are the strange puffy edges at the top of your shoulders with the grey suit you were wearing? Or is that a feature. I hope I have not offended you, kind regards Ben from NZ
@nintendonut100
@nintendonut100 2 года назад
That's called shoulder roping, it's a feature
@drivelogic3841
@drivelogic3841 2 года назад
Something you dont get to see, on Walmart $69.99 Made in China Suite.
@giacomosummaria7273
@giacomosummaria7273 2 года назад
Look up Cifonelli
@mLi75
@mLi75 2 года назад
Videos on Fire. BTW thanks for the Budd tip. I've just received my first made to measure from them and their product and customer service is par excellence. Alas I also decided to try an outfit based in Costa Mesa CA, but they've asked for another month for a made to measure shirt. That was disappointing. You get what you pay for I suppose.
@asanjari
@asanjari 2 года назад
where can I buy that exact fabric? I love the green and blue with strip mixture in it. can anyone provide a link. Thank you
@strictlyyoutube6881
@strictlyyoutube6881 2 года назад
Looks very relaxed yet elegant. Perfect for a summer business meeting.
@federanger
@federanger 2 года назад
I have a question . Why is the sleeve head not smooth , their seems to be some puckering at the top of the sleeve head and ive seen it in some of the other suits . Is this something that is requested by you Kirby ?
@bigpicturethinking5620
@bigpicturethinking5620 2 года назад
Yeah my J.C. Penney suits don’t even have that “puckering”
@kirbyallison
@kirbyallison 2 года назад
It’s quite normal for the Italians to work in extra fabric around the shoulder to create fullness. Creates a touch of puckering as the extra fabric at the top of the sleeve.
@federanger
@federanger 2 года назад
@@kirbyallison thank you Kirby !! I prefer a sleek sleeve but to each is own .
@brucer6239
@brucer6239 2 года назад
@@kirbyallison The puckering is absolutely an Italian style element. It is one of the very few things that I do not like in Italian suits.
@miles422
@miles422 2 года назад
Gorgeous material! Love the color and tones. Beautiful suit!!
@aar498
@aar498 2 года назад
There are a number of fit and execution issues with this suit. Not surprising since the first one had poorly executed shoulders and sleeve heads. Here, the lapels are shockingly off with the left lapel starting something like 1/2" lower than the right one and ending 2" above the right one. No big deal. Call it Italian sprezzatura lol Turning to the back, the collar is too low. There is some tightness at the waist and probably too much balance between the scye level and the waist. By the way, if you go for a light-weight cloth, you'd better have a good tailor. Because that type of fabric is particularly unforgiving.
@sirrandolphnettleby3114
@sirrandolphnettleby3114 2 года назад
I noticed that at the beginning but i thought it was the camera angle. The lapels are way out on a bespoke suit aswell. If i was the tailor of that suit i would be embarrass.
@max2grant
@max2grant 2 года назад
I disagree with both of you. I think this suit is just rumpled from being shipped, and Kirby put it on immediately without steaming or ironing. I expect this suit in person looks like a perfect fit.
@MrLladida
@MrLladida 2 года назад
I really like the overall styling of the suits by Jensen, but unfortunately there are some glaring fitting issues. The shoulders are way more on point on this one, but the problem with the lapels is rather obvious. Concerning the waist I don't think you can say it is a balance issue just by watching the video, so it also could be just some tightness that can easily be addressed (maybe somebody gained some weight?). Although you can also observe this by looking at the fronts unclosed, which aren't falling straight down, so it might be a vertical balance issue. Overall I wouldn't call it a desaster but there are some issues.... nevertheless I like the look
@NeyDogg
@NeyDogg 2 года назад
The pressing of the lapels seem to be off. Hopefully it’s not an issue with the Cutting but only the pressing. I think the biggest issue is the fabric is too light weight
@MrStephenfull
@MrStephenfull 2 года назад
What is this, Styleforum?
@caporegime1862
@caporegime1862 2 года назад
Nice suit. But I’d rather have the divij DB flannel suit
@jeffdady864
@jeffdady864 2 года назад
Looks fantastic, l thought the trousers are a little short, but a great whistle.
@kirbyallison
@kirbyallison 2 года назад
Went for something a touch formal. No cuff. Slight break.
@julian9898
@julian9898 2 года назад
You should do a fashion tour of Italy/ Rome like you did with London! 😁
@qarhsi
@qarhsi 2 года назад
It's nice to see these new nice looking suits and sometimes shoes as well. But my question is - how many do you wish to own? You have so many of these expensive premium items, you won't get much wear out of them...
@davidgrandy4681
@davidgrandy4681 2 года назад
In the original suit you're wearing aren't the lapels scalloped somewhat? Is that a dry cleaning error?
@anthonymiller8979
@anthonymiller8979 2 года назад
That left lapel really looks odd with the ripples. Hopefully just a bad cleaning rather than not holding up long term
@alextop1850
@alextop1850 2 года назад
I think you need a pinky ring and custom cufflinks
@mrjibrhanjamalkhan2144
@mrjibrhanjamalkhan2144 2 года назад
That slap head through its all a person can focus on
@jslevy2597
@jslevy2597 2 года назад
Strange, as the suit in the final fiiting video just needed the sleeves adjusted. What happenend?
@petermaag9622
@petermaag9622 2 года назад
The fabric is terrific and incredibly interesting and frankly the fit is visibly more refined than on the fresco but I do have a bit of an issue with that short label roll on the left hand side ... probably just a pressing matter (no pun intended?)
@krollic
@krollic 2 года назад
yeah there's definitely a substantial imbalance w/ the lapel press
@markpreston6676
@markpreston6676 2 года назад
spoke of the be variety
@MrTilbury1
@MrTilbury1 2 года назад
That suit is top class! Love it! Especially the colour!
@kismet2354
@kismet2354 2 года назад
The trousers are way too short. Not exactly a great example of what “bespoke” is all about.
@rwspal
@rwspal 2 года назад
My observation as well. The trousers seem rather high-water.
@SydBodeker
@SydBodeker 9 месяцев назад
I kinda like them like this tbh
@hendotremendo
@hendotremendo 2 года назад
Im not gonna lie here Kirby, the suit youre wearing for the video really doesnt touch the quality of some of your other bespoke suits. Its clear on the shoulders
@DWhite-el4ih
@DWhite-el4ih 2 года назад
My mens wearhouse suit looks and fits better than this and I only paid $350. I realize this is handmade, but the least you can ask for is a good looking suit.
@Stolas1777
@Stolas1777 2 года назад
Seriously the stuff these dudes convince themselves of to cope with spending such exorbitant amounts of money on an ill fitting suit for ThE DeTaILs is hilarious to me at least you’d expect a symmetrical lapel spending thousands of dollars. Machines make better stuff than we do a lot of the time it’s an unfortunate truth
@NJ-Cathie
@NJ-Cathie 2 года назад
I really like the suit you have on. The cut is perfect on you. The new suit is beautiful. I love the color.
@Kahuna_550
@Kahuna_550 2 года назад
What pomade do you use.
@ArafatRahman_MS
@ArafatRahman_MS 2 года назад
The dimensity is eye catchy.
@mypekicks
@mypekicks 2 года назад
I don’t know anything about suits, but I feel the V where the two sides are buttoned looks a bit unbalanced. One side is larger/lower than the other side?
@andregant9980
@andregant9980 2 года назад
What is the name of the fabric mill? I think I hear him say "door-mey" but I am not sure how to spell it? I have tried Googling with various spellings without success. Please advise!
@pedrom1619
@pedrom1619 2 года назад
Despite the great fabric I really do think this is the first suit from Kirby that does not have the proper finishing touches and some measures even look unbalanced!
@Jiggy609
@Jiggy609 2 года назад
Kirby’s first word was “bespoke”
@CokeWithIceAndLemon
@CokeWithIceAndLemon 2 года назад
Thank you for what you do Kirby, a true style inspiration for me personally, big big fan! sending you love and regards from Saudi.
@wingwing910
@wingwing910 2 года назад
Hey kirby, you look great in this suit. What colour is this ? Do u have something like a fabric number ? I want to make my new suit with this exact fabric!
@the40thstep
@the40thstep 2 года назад
Hey I have a Gallo suit... Love it
@joeskis
@joeskis 2 года назад
really don't like the "puffy" connection from sleeve to shoulder. It's really meant to be that way?
@soulandwit5029
@soulandwit5029 2 года назад
Kirby, may I ask what color buttons you ended up going with? In a previous video, you and Eric discussed mid-gray, but these look dark brown.
@jeffhreid
@jeffhreid 5 месяцев назад
I like the trousers but the jacket isn’t my cup of tea based on the arm and shoulders
@EB-bk4kv
@EB-bk4kv 2 года назад
What happened to the Double Commissioned suits from Kent and John
@phmwu7368
@phmwu7368 2 года назад
It's not a box it's a made-to-measure suit bag, if possible store with cedar or lavender
@michaelosullivan3529
@michaelosullivan3529 2 года назад
I thought ok another grey suit but the different tones within the fabric give it a subtle glow make it a grade above Great choice
@mr_ion
@mr_ion Год назад
What is the color code for the Dormeuil suit? Thanks!
@brucer6239
@brucer6239 2 года назад
British or Italian…which is better? They are both great. It all depends on one’s preferences. Generally, I prefer Italian styling and I am a fan of Hoboken’s Joseph Genuardi, who apprenticed under the famous Joseph Centofanti of Philadelphia. Hard to evaluate the suit right out of the box.
@melvinmckinney9120
@melvinmckinney9120 2 года назад
Very nice suit.
@Oswaldbates67
@Oswaldbates67 Месяц назад
How much for that suit????? 🙏
@williamproctor4388
@williamproctor4388 2 года назад
That’s amazing Kirby. Looks excellent on you.
@TheTerryE
@TheTerryE 2 года назад
The answer from me would be a big, fat NO. Savile Row is the best. Hands down.
@saxman7131
@saxman7131 2 года назад
The suit looks fantastic.
@expatexpat6531
@expatexpat6531 2 года назад
The suit and the fabric look really good. One question / point: @6:51 the trousers look a little short. Was that due to the setting of your braces? I've noticed that Americans tend to cut their trousers shorter than in Europe. I've seen videos of Reagan and Trump with trousers basically "at half mast", as if the trousers had shrunk or their tailor had run out of cloth. Maybe you can comment on this or discuss it with Eric Jensen who's seen both worlds. A comment from the UK tailors would also be interesting.
@greggani4716
@greggani4716 2 года назад
I noticed that as well?
@richtonge2736
@richtonge2736 2 года назад
yeah I noticed the leg hems were a little high too.. but then I find Italian tailoring a big sloppy anyway. Give me a sharp London cut any day
@paulr6043
@paulr6043 2 года назад
I agree, the trousers are too short
@Radhatter1
@Radhatter1 2 года назад
Typically the dimples on the left sleeve are caused by a mismatch between the cut of the sleeve and your arms and resting position, or the shoulder width may be a bit off. I agree with the feedback here it’s not that good. I think the trouser length and the way it hangs is all wrong you should have gone with 1.5 inch cuffs. What a shame, if you paid 4,600€ for this is not with the price. Edited for punctuation.
@marcracioppi766
@marcracioppi766 2 года назад
What a Beautiful suit!!! Wear it in Good Health Kirby.
@mosesfennel
@mosesfennel 2 года назад
Nice fabric.
@COLDMKULTRA
@COLDMKULTRA 2 года назад
It looks splendid Mr Allison !
@RastaMonn
@RastaMonn 2 года назад
Look at the inseam on your left side. I saw it is uneven
@Obsidemon
@Obsidemon 2 года назад
Hi man, how do you keep your Shirt in?
@jjpthe2
@jjpthe2 2 года назад
It looks like the bridal on the left side is not balanced w the right. That, or it was pressed with an uneven break. Also, if you think that's great packaging (?) you don't know what you are missing.
@kirbyallison
@kirbyallison 2 года назад
It was right out of the box. And I do have a rather exaggerated drop right. Makes it a bit difficult to align the notches.
@Shimano_Dior23_
@Shimano_Dior23_ 2 года назад
Beautiful piece your definitely not directing a funeral this episode
@alotl1kevegas860
@alotl1kevegas860 2 года назад
New to the channel. I'm not the type that wears suits, but your channel has me wanting to buy a suit in the worst way. There is a sense of elegance that I absolutely adore. The suit looks fantastic. Great video, as always!
@kenneth7826
@kenneth7826 Год назад
Bravo!!!!!!!
@gemmi1
@gemmi1 2 года назад
Hi Kirby do you have a video unboxing the pieces you commissioned from John Kent and Terry Haste? I can't find it.
@richtonge2736
@richtonge2736 2 года назад
He'll be in London this month for 1st fit.. dunno when the video will be out. I can't wait.. I'd love a Terry Haste suit
@gemmi1
@gemmi1 2 года назад
@@richtonge2736 ooh can't wait!
@kirbyallison
@kirbyallison 2 года назад
Just had the first and second fittings while here in London. Probably one more next time I am here. Garments should be completed by the fall
@gemmi1
@gemmi1 2 года назад
@@kirbyallison brilliant I am so excited for this!
@rohanjd
@rohanjd 2 года назад
One of your best looking suits Kirby! Looking good Sir!
@ARlELATOM
@ARlELATOM 2 года назад
I thought the double vents was a British style, or is that not the case? Really love the suit! One of my favourites of yours 👌
@kirbyallison
@kirbyallison 2 года назад
Vents are pretty universally accepted
@ianwalls4976
@ianwalls4976 2 года назад
Love the suit and ghe colour thsnkuou kirby for an amazing episode
@Jack-jh5ls
@Jack-jh5ls 2 года назад
Beautiful color, love that suit!
@GentStyle
@GentStyle 2 года назад
Excellent suit Kirby!
@morrisdoug6497
@morrisdoug6497 Год назад
The leg length looks like it could be a little longer.
@mircomaker5.0.faidate7
@mircomaker5.0.faidate7 2 года назад
In italia ,Gallo è una normalissima sartoria , come ce ne sono a migliaia . Le migliori è più rinomate sartorie italiane sono altre. Almeno qui in Italia, in America avete sicuramente idee tutte vostre
@NM-fh1im
@NM-fh1im 2 года назад
Welcome back to London, Kirby! I was walking with my wife earlier and actually saw you on Pall Mall. We really wanted to say hello but didn’t want to interrupt you as you were walking with purpose with Tom Chamberlain and another gentleman. I hope you will have a great time. Looking forward to seeing more videos! Cheers!👌
@kirbyallison
@kirbyallison 2 года назад
Oh, darn! You should have said hello! We had just finished filming a walking tour on the Trooping of the Colour and were walking back to Davidoff before heading to lunch.
@stylishoversixty9459
@stylishoversixty9459 2 года назад
Just one word Mr. Allison Marvelous....actually more than just one word, several of those being awesome fantastic superb gorgeous the way it hugs your body really highlights what a bespoke suit is capable of doing very stylish great design the fabric is definitely impeccable I'm jealous, have a great trip to London and as always thanks for sharing
@theurbancamper5410
@theurbancamper5410 2 года назад
Thanks for another great video. The fabric is really nice, but I’m sorry to say, I don’t think the suit fits you well at all.
@TheJvonc
@TheJvonc 2 года назад
Awesome! Beautiful color, beautiful fit-totally suits you!
@surinderjitsingh8954
@surinderjitsingh8954 Год назад
I wish I could afford it
@dahak972
@dahak972 2 года назад
The jacket you are wearing in the beginning of this video is terrible. The sleeves are sewn really weird and the lapels look like they’ve been through the ringer.
@jaswats9645
@jaswats9645 2 года назад
Absolutely? Absolutely. Just subscribed and this shlub is really enjoying your knowledge and class.
@garyblower1921
@garyblower1921 2 года назад
Love the suit love the vlog always very informative
@InTheNow2020
@InTheNow2020 2 года назад
Very nice, I personally would have added a 1 1/2 inch cuff on the trousers and a theatre pocket above the right suit pocket. Great weight and cut, with a lovely light sheen to the fabric.
@albriseno2428
@albriseno2428 2 года назад
The suit looks very nice and the material is great. The only thing I noticed is the roll of the jacket lapel. It seems to end above the button and buttonhole. In other videos on bespoke suits, especially one shot at Anderson Sheppard, the tailors explain that the roll should end at the button on one side and the buttonhole on the other. When the suit is buttoned it looks ok but the moment you unbutton the jacket you see how the lapel roll is short. Maybe it will even out once the suit settles.
@李偉論
@李偉論 2 года назад
What a gentleman, support from Hong Kong
@agc4view09
@agc4view09 2 года назад
Superb video! You've got fine taste in men's formal wear.
@jamesleem.d.7442
@jamesleem.d.7442 2 года назад
Dimensionality was brilliant here, if not merely proper, no ?
@sandeepkumar-mz8vp
@sandeepkumar-mz8vp 2 года назад
What's the total cost of the suit ?
@jtb52
@jtb52 2 года назад
Very nice. Lovely fabric.
@gengpaisit
@gengpaisit 2 года назад
Your left lapel is not balance with right side
@ayr4455
@ayr4455 2 года назад
the sleeves on both suits, look as though they were sewn on by a child. They look like Pirate jackets with puffer sleeves.
@aldotoscano3985
@aldotoscano3985 2 года назад
Gorgeous to say the least!!
@sandro1a2b
@sandro1a2b 2 года назад
Lovely suit! By the way, it's not sahr-TORE-ee-ah Gallo. It's sahr-tore-EE-ah Gallo.
@sreenivasaprasad1171
@sreenivasaprasad1171 2 года назад
I think your trousers are not stitched well. May be it is because of the length of the trousers.
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