@@jo-qp7mz I think it’s just less likely to actually start during the test if your engine is still hooked up to everything else. I believe you can get a better reading off the leading hole and that’s probably why he’s testing on that hole.
the RCT tells you to do it thru the trailing location. Thats the only reason I am keeping it consistent. I can try both leading and trailing back to back. The leading hole is much bigger than the trailing, could be some discrepancy between the two holes.
Eager to see the up coming videos! I'd love to see the compression numbers of the bridgeported engine to see how it compares to a stock engine! Keep it up dude, your videos are amazing and super easy to understand, some of the best work for rotary engines out there.
The key with accuracy with the piston tester is to use the non quick disconnect versions. The disconnects can leak air and lower your numbers. My tester that's 20yrs old has the fixed line from the gauge and different ends that screw in to match the spark plug threads. When I tried using a gauge with the disconnect, the nunbers were always lower. Took me a while to figure out why.
I bought a car from GA and he did a compression test for me, using a piston tester, and he read it as high 90s. I did not know he was going to use a piston tester or else I would have asked to use a RE tester. When I got the car here, I took it to a couple of shops, they used the rotary specific tester, and it reads as mid 80s. The car runs great but does have hot start issues. It might be the fuel injectors as the fuel system was a big problem; rust in the tank, old fuel, rusted/corroded hanger. All has been replaced except for the injectors which I am working on next. Definitely what I was not expected to jump into but It is what it is. Thanks for this video as it helped me learned a bit. Who even knows if the guy gave me true numbers.
@@loukreu still have the same issues but I band-aid the issue by getting a stronger starter from Banzi Racing. I still need/want to buy the new injectors, coil packs, and a new starter. I want to fix and future proof the car for future endeavors. I am actually documenting my upgrades on RU-vid 😁
you can test the probes by applying the same pressure to them and checking the output value for each. in my opinion it is not a question of an old or a new tester (which is only a display) but rather a difference on the probes which should be + or - 5% waiting for other test!
On my annual testing…. I focus on the variation between the 3 faces more than I do the overall numbers. I’ll know when the overall compression get too low when the hot start issues develop.
in the middle of tearing apart my Cressida for a rotary swap im looking to use rx8 motors as theyre easily available in my country and very cheap, the goal is a twin turbo 13b attached to a zf8hp thats high flowing and reliable as possible, if i can save a bit on gas make it more effecient that would be cool too but im not counting on that or hoping for much, i am still planning to use rx8 rotors, but i was wondering what the best recipe would be, porting housings front plates and the likes and what manifolds i could use when i go this way, any help is much appreciated, im also wondering what tools and stands i would need to start working on them, im not new to rotarys but the shop i worked with was very basic and had all the tools available. love the content keep the rotary alive and i hope it all works good for ya
So can I use regular compression tester to see if I have similar compression on all 3 faces? I'll be looking for renesis 6 port soon but rotary comp testers are really hard to get in my country
Just rebuilt an rx8 engine and now compression test is at about 70psi, what should I check for that might be causing it? The engine is basically new now.
